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TRAVELS 



IN 



ASIA MINOR 



AND 



GREECE. 



BY THE LATE 



RICHARD CHANDLER, D.D, 



A NEW EDITION, 
WITH CORRECTIONS AND REMARKS 



BY 



- -•• 



NICHOLAS KEX^TT, ESQ.- . 



C 4 






TO WHICH 1$ PR^^UC^S - 

» J w ^ ^ -' 

AN INTRODUCTORY ACCOUNT OF THE -AUTHOR. 






BY 



RALPH CHURTON, M.A. 

ARCHDEACON OF ST.DAVID'S. 



VOL. I. 



OXFORD, 

AT THE CLARENDON PRESS. 
MDCCCXXV. 



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INTRODUCTION 



The Author of the foUowing Works, Richard 
Chandler, was bom at Elson in Hampshire, the 
'son of Daniel Chandler. He had an elder bro- 
ther, of his father's name, Daniel, who was bom at 
Alverstoke, in the same county. Both were edu- 
cated at i^nchester school, the younger on the 
foundation, the elder not. He, the elder, entered 
at Brasen Nose coUqge, Oct. 14, 1744 ; was, in 
due time, ordained ; and had, at the period of his 
death, Nov. 3, 1791) the livings of Hascomb and 
Thames Ditton, in Surrey, and was also lecturer 
and rector of Hampton, Middlesex. He left an 
only daughter, Sarah, still living. The two brothers 
(if what was in fact remarkable, may here be noted) 
were personally as unlike as can well be imagined ; 
the elder square, rather above the middle stature ; 
Hhe younger round, and considerably below the 
standard ; yet, as characteristic family features are 
seldom entkely wanting, we have it on undoubted 
authority, that they were often mistaken, the one 
for the other. 

Richard Chandler missing New college (as the 
expression is) entered at Queen's, May 9, 1755, when 
Dr. Browne was Provost, whose classical attainments 
and meritorious attention to the credit and pros- 

a2 



iv ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. 

perity of his individual college, and of the university 
in general, were justly and gratefully acknowledged 
by Chandler % when, having been engrafted on the 
foundation of another college, he had no temptation 
to flatter. 

He was elected a demy of Magdalen college, July 
-24, 1757; and probationer fellow, July 25, 1770. 

He had scarcely been admitted B. A. when, in 
1759, he published, but without his name, Elegiaca 
Graeca, the Fragments of Tyrtaeus, Simonides, Me- 
leager, Theognis, Alcaeus, Sappho, and others, illus- 
trated with succinct notes, but unaccompanied with 
a translation, and without accents ; following herein, 
aJs well his own judgment, as the example of the 
university, whose splendid edition of Theocritus, 
. tinder the care of Mr. Warton, had recently been 
published, without these spurious encumbrances of 
the text, as they were then deemed ; but modern 
taste has judged it right to resume the typography, 
which Hutchinson and others, following the first 
printers, had not disdained to use. 

His next publication was the superb edition of 
the Oxford or Arundelian Marbles, so named from 
Thomas earl of Arundel ; who, availing himself of 
the assistance of the famous sir William Petty (an- 
cestor of the marquis of Lansdowne) collected them 
in Italy, Greece, and Asia, at great expense, in the 
time of James and Charles I. They were presented to 

■* 1763. Pref. to Oxford Marbles. Dr. Browne was Vice- 
ChanceUor in J 750. 



ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. v 

the university by his grandsdii, Henry Howard, after- . 
wards duke of Norfolk, on the suggestion and advice 
of the memoraUe and excellent John Evelyn, esq. 6f 
Balliol college ; who, for his service on the occasion, 
received the public thanks of the university ^. The 
ancient inscriptions, which formed part of the col- 
lection, were published by Selden in 1628 ; of which 
another edition, under the direction of bishop Fell, 
was published in 1676, by Prideaux, afterwards 
dean of Norwich. The learned Maittaire undertook 
a new edition with better auspites, enriching his 
work with notes and an index ; but he did not tran- 
scribe or collate the inscriptions, which Prid^aux 
had pronounced to be a hopeless task. It remained 
therefore for Chandler, with a young and piercing 
eye, carefully to examine and collate the inscrip- 
tions, rectifying mistakes, supplying defects, and 
making out some, which others had despaired of. 
This part of the work was followed and adorned 
with engravings, from antique statues, bustos, and 
gems. It was printed in a beautiful type, under the 
Imprimatur of the earl of Litchfield, chancellor of 
the university, June 6, 1763, and dedicated by the 
university to the then youthful sovereign, George 
III. under a handsome medal, with a title, which 
hope fondly anticipated, (and never was hope more 
amply fulfilled !) " pater patri-^ !" 

The volume was enriched . with a copious, elabo- 
rate, and most accurate Index, composed by John 

M7 October, 1667. 

a S 






Ti ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. 

Loveday esq. a gendeman commoner of Magdalen 
college, always the fidthfiil friend of tbe Editor, and 
now, alas ! th(e lasting regret of all who knew him ! 

A word must be added to introduce two other 
undying names. In acknowledging the assistance 
of his friends, he says, his particular thanks were 
due to ^^ two members of Balliol coU^e, universally 

and justly celebrated for their vast and various 

learning.'' These were the rev. Charles Godwyn, 
whose books, under his will, have since become a 
valuable auctarium of the Bodleian ; and the rev. 
Joseph Sandford^ whose books, also by wiU, enrich 
the library of Exeter college. 

The Dilettanti Society, consisting of fifty-four 
noblemen and gentlemen of distinguished taste and 
talents, was first formed in the year 1734. Lord 
Despencer was the first on the list; the duke of 
Marlborough, earl of Sandwich, earl Spencer, vis- 
count Palmerston^ Athenian Stuart, his coadjutor 
Mr. Revett, and Mr. Wood, editor of the Ruins of 
Palmyra and Balbec, were some of the other mem- 
bers. In 1764 the society resolved to send Mr. Chan- 
dler, known as an able scholar, and recommended 
by Mr. Wood, with Mr. Bevett ^ the architect, and 
Mr. Pars, a young painter, to travel in Asia Minor 
and Greece. Their instructions, drawn up by Wood, 
were dated May 17, 1764. They embarked at 

<^ The Delegates of the Press are indebted to Henry Ellis esq. 
for a transcript of Mr. Re^ett^s marginal observations on both Dr. 
Chaudler*s volumes, which are now printed from the original MS. 
in the British Museum. 



ACCOUNT or THE AUTHOJtt. vu 

Grvreseod on the 9th of Juitis^ and w^re w Af» 
nUier Biare than a year^ inaldng Smyrna, a9 tbey 
were ifirectecU thdbr head-quarters. Im A¥gii9t 
1765 they sailed for Athens ; and having employed 
another t wdvemontb in visiting and desmhing^places 
of ancient renown, in die pore air of Attica, and in 
the Peloponfiesi^ they set sail for Sngland^ and 
reached Bristol in the be|^nning of HotB^mher, 

1T«6. 

Before Mr. Chandler had leisure to prepare and pub- 
lish his Travels, the importance of the object, upon 
which, with his able assistants, he was sent, and how 
well they had accomplished that dbjject, was shewn by 
two splendid works, ** Ionian Antiquities, or Ruins 
^ of magnificent and fomons Buildings in Ionia," 
inscribed by the Society of Dilettanti to his Migesty, 
London, 17€9 ; and ** Inscriptiones antiquie, plerae- 
^ que nondum edits, in Asia Minori et Graecia, 
*' praesertim Athenis, coUectse," Oxford, 1774. folio. 

As he adverted occasionally to the classic scenes, 
which be had visited in his travels, it was truly de^ 
tightful, I had almost said enchanting, to my younger 
ears, to hear him tell, his bright eye beaming with 
peculiar lustre, how, after a long lapse of ages of ig- 
norance and barbarism, and under the cruel hand ^ 
of Turkish tyranny and oppression, the lyre, though 

^ This might almost be said without a metaphor; for a poll- 
tax being exacted of the Greeks by the Sublime Porte, the col- 
lector ascertuDS (and with great accuracy, as Dr. Chandler used to 
say) the age of the adults liable to the tax, by the si^e of the 
neck. 

a 4 



▼10 ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. 

not now in the hands o£ a Tyrtaeus or Simonides^ 
was still however cherished on the banks of the 
Ilissud ; and ** 0€y OeKu »a (nomy 17 Xvpa,*^ the ^^ coco 
^^ vwTiraXjw <l>opiJuyya^ of modem days^ was the. signal 
to awaken the harmony of the sleeping strings. 

In 1772 he was senior proctor of the university, 
and discharged the duties of that important and 
delicate office with firmness and fortitude. 

He was admitted to the degree of B.D. April 
23, 1773 ; and D. D. December 17 the same year. • 

A year or two after this he bestowed much time 
and pains in examining the archives of the college 
of which he was an ornament, for his friend the 
Ilev. Gilbert White, senior fellow of Oriel college, 
who was then collecting materials for the history of 
his native parish of Selbome, Hants ; which having 
since been published in ' more than one edition, and 
finding an encomiast in every reader, needs not here 
be commended. But it may be proper to mention 
one or two incidental results of this laborious re- 
search in the ancient deeds and muniments of the 
college. The investigation, if it did not give the 
first hint, certainly furnished many facts and dates 
and notices, which were of material use, when, some 
years afterwards, he compiled with much care the 
Life ^ of William of Waynflete, the pious and munifi- 
cent founder of the college of St. Mary Magdalen ; 
and the same inquiry also (if that may be noted) 

' Published after his decease,^ by his and tny friend, the late 
Charles Lambert esq. London, J 81 1 . 



ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. ix 

gave the young friend, who then, shared and now 
records his labours, the first relish for ancient parch- 
ments, and a desire to be acquainted with the hand- 
writing of men, who adorned the days in which they 
Uved, and have since been long numbered with the 
venerable dead. 

In July 1 779 he. was presented by his college 
to the consolidati^d livings of East Worldham and 
West Tisted, near Alton, Hants ; which preferment, 
though not very ample, had two recommendations 
to him ; it was in his native county, and near his 
esteemed friends, the historian of Selbome, and the 
rev. Andrew Etty, the worthy and very exemplary 
vicar of that parish. There being no house suitable 
for the residence of a clergyman, at either of these 
places, (a defect which by the liberality of the college, 
and of the present worthy incumbent, Mr. Lowndes, 
who is building a good house at Worldham, will 
soon be removed,) he fitted up the vicarial house, a 
small cottage, at Worldham, and resided in it. 

In 1785, Oct. 2, he was married, at St. George's 
church, Hanover Square, to Miss Benigna Dorrien, 
daughter of Liebert Dorrien esquire, a gentleman 
of foreign, it is believed German, extraction, but 
bom in London, where his father, Frederick Dorrien, 
was a merchant of good repute. 

Immediately after his marriage he went with Mrs. 
Chandler to Nismes, where they passed the winter, 
and then visited Switzerland, residing chiefly at 
Vevay and Rolle. In 1787 they proceeded into 



X ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOB- 

Italy ; and leturned in 1788, through Florence to 
BoUe, where a soo, William Berkeley, was bom ; 
and a daughter, Gewgiana, some years afterwards, 
in England ; both now resident ', with their excel- 
lent mother, at Rolle. 

In the leisure and opportunities, which foreign 
residence afforded, he did not forget the classics 
and theology. He amused himself with collating 
different MSS. of his favourite Pindar, particulariy 
in the Vatican, and in the Medicean library at 
Florence; in whidi he was *^ assisted by his va- 
'' luaUe friend, the late Mr. WilUam Clarke, of li- 
'^ verpool ^.^ The various readings thus collected, 
though illustrated by him with observations, have 
not yet been submitted to the public, but remain in 
safe hands, to be used by some future editor of the 
'Theban bard^. Having at the same time dis- 

f Letter dated Rolle, Jan. II, 1825. 

s Of this second town in the kingdom may be said, as aacientlj 
was said of Tyre^ '* Her merchants are princes — the honourable of 
** the earth.** Isai. xxiii. 8. Whether Mr. Clarke, son of a banker 
in Liverpool, actually assisted in collating Greek manuscripts, as 
I have ventured on credible authority (Gent. Mag. 1810, p. 188.) 
to say, I am not certainly informed. . He constantly accompanied 
Dr. Chandler; but his own immediate object was to collate 
MSS. and collect information, particularly at Florence, respecting 
the Medici family, for his friend Mr. Roscoe, the celebrated his- 
torian of Lorenzo de Medici. 

^ I regret most sincerely that Dr. Chandler's often promised and 
prepared account of the Troad (see Address to the Reader, pre- 
fixed to his Hist, of Ilium or Troy) and the collations of Pindar, 
are not at present accessible. A considerable period after his de- 
cease having elapsed before Mrs. Chandler went abroad^ and no 
inquiry or mention having been made of these manuscripts, they. 



ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOB- xi 

covered, in the inexhaustible rtores oi the Vaticao, 
some very aoci^Dtt and curious M8S. of the Greek 
Testament, scaroely, as he thought, yielding the 
palm of priority to the famous Alssandrian MS* 
and poring upon them with great avidity, the jea^ 
lousy of the papal court, unwilling that the sources 
of primitive truth should be explcnred by any who 
were not of her communion, sjmited away these in- 
estimable treasures ; and, to his no small r^ret, he 
was not permitted to have sight of them again. 

The humanity of letters was pleasingly exempli* 
fied, when he was on this classic ground. He was 
not only received with the respect due to his talents 
and learning, but welccnned with the cordiality of 
friendship, by the learned and benevolent cantinal 
Bwgia, and other literati of Rome ; one of whom, 
Ignatius Raponi, addressed to him a learned disser- 
tation on dn ancient Greek inscription, an epitaph 
on a female orphan of six years old, in six elegant 
elegiac lines^ which had been printed by Muratori 
and others, but incorrectly. Raponi therefore co- 
pied the inscription with a view to publication, and 
having examined it again, under a burning sun, in 
company with Dr. Chandler, was by him encouraged 
to publish. As there are now probably few copies 

were packed up with so many other papers and effects in Cum- 
berland, where foi* some time she resided, that '* it is out of the 
" question to commission any one to find them.** Letter from 
Rolle, received Jan. 28, 1825. 



xii ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. 

in England of this dissertation, I subjoin the title of 
it below, in which the reader will not fail to observe 
the facility, with which a modem provincial town 
adopts the style and address of ancient Rome, in 
the days of her consular iEind imperial strength and 
splendor \ 

He. was presented in 1800, by Dr. Sheppard, 
formerly fellow of Magdalen college, and at that 
time vicar of Basingstoke, and rector of Quarley, 
Hants, to the rectory and vicarage of Tylehurst, 
near Reading, Berks, where from that time he re- 
sided. There his "Histoiy of Ilium or Troy" is 
dated^ May 10, 1802; and there, after partial re- 
covery from a paralytic or apoplectic seizure, an 
event which he had many years before foreboded ^, 
his valuable life terminated, Feb. 9» 1810, in the 
72d year of his age. 

To these brief Memoirs, penned with affectionate 
regret for the memory of the friend, whom I had so 
much reason to esteem and love, it is needless to 
subjoin a studied delineation of character. The 
simple facts argue, it is hoped, a mind active and 

* Tgnatit M. Raponi Roinani Academ. Litter. Volsc. Velitern. 
Soc. de Epigrammate Grseco Romse in Coelimontanis Matthse- 
jonim bonis extante. Ad cl. Virunt Richardum Chandler Anglutn. 

Velitris mdcclxxxviii. 
Excudebat Cssar Sartori S. P. Q. V. Typographus 

Superiorum Facultate, 
^ On staggering, rather dangerously, as I was walking with him 
in th^ dock-yard at Portsmouth. 



ACCOUNT OF THE AUTHOR. xiii 

intelligent, generous, clear, and communicative. I 
will therefore conclude with a short" remark, which 
some of his works, contrasted with certain contempo- 
rary productions, forcibly suggest. 

Paradox is the infirmity of minds exalted by ge- 
nius, or expanded by learning, bringing them, so far, 
to the standard or level of common men. In his 
calm retreat, at Cippenham, near " imperial Wind- 
" sor," the incomparably learned and excellent Jacob 
Bryant endeavoured most elaborately to prove the 
Trojan war a fiction, and that " no such city as Troy 
" in Phrygia ever existed." But Chandler and 
others, who have surveyed these scenes of ancient 
renown, with the keen but impartial eye of an anti- 
quary, assure us of a fact, in itself far from incre- 
dible, that the hill^, the promontories, the rivers 
and barrows, visible at this day on these renowned 
plains and in the immediate vicinity, confirm beyond 
all doubt, to those conversant in the " pictures V* 
as they have been called, of the blind bard of Chios", 
the general truth and accuracy of his descriptions ; 
verifying, by consequence, the general outline of the 
Iliad, with little less certainty, than the ample bar- 
row, raised at a later period on the plains of Ma- 

^ *' Ejus picturam, non poesim, videmus.*' Tusc. Disp. i. 39. 

*" 'Ey §€ TO KoXKirtw Xio$ €€vk€V eofvip, 
Otvi v€p iffvKkwv yiveifif Toivfi€ kou cofbpay. 

Simonides. V. Elegiaca Greeca, p. 20. 



riy ACCOUNT OP THE AUTHOR. 

rathoti (which, as Dr. Chandler used to say, strongly 
rei^tidbles, in form and magnitude, the Castle-hill at 
(Xford) aflbrds irrefragable proof of the victory 
achieved there, in the days of Grecian glory, by the 
vdlDur of Miltiades. 

MiDDLETON, R. CHURTON. 

Jan. 28, 1826. 

P. S. The author informs us, (Travels in Giieece, 
chap, xxvii.) that on leaving Athens, he set at liberty 
*^ a venerable and voracious prisoner," as he calls 
him, a large homed owl, which had been presented 
to him by a peasant. He brought home with him 
another, stuffed, and also a drawing of. a graceful 
Attic female, spinning, in the modern, which is be* 
lieved to have been also the ancient, costume ; one 
knee resting on a cushion, one hand a little elevated, 
holding the distaflf, the other a little lower, drawing 
the thread, and twirling the spindle. For the loss 
of Minerva's favourite bird I feel nd very painful re- 
gret. The Penelope of modem days, could it have 
been found, would have formed, it was conceived, an 
elegant and appropriate vignette for the Travels; 
but my inquiries hitherto have been unsuccessful, to 
discover to whose hands it was confided, and whether 
it is still in existence. 



TRAVELS 



IN 



ASIA MINOR 



TO THE 

SOCIETY OF DILErrANTI. 



' 1 



My Lords and Gentlemen, 

xHE relation of a journey into a remote 
country, performed at your expense, naturally 
claims the honour of your patronage, on its 
being submitted to general inspection. In- 
deed,' justice requires that the author should 
point out the sources of his intelligence ; aridj 
if information or amusement result from his^ 
undertaking, that the approbation of the pub- 
lic shttuld be referred principally to his em- 
ployers. ' 

But, besides this motive for addressing 
you, the author is happy in an opportunity 
* of avowing the pride and pleasure which he 
feels in having served a Society composed of 
such illustrious and distinguished personages 
as the Dilettanti, and in recording one re- 
markable instance of your munificent atten- 
tion to letters and the arts. 

The countries to which his researches were 
particularly directed by your committee, have 
made a most conspicuous figure in history. 
The changes they have undergone, with their 

CHANDLEB, ASIA M. b 



xviii DEDICATION. 

present state and remaining antiquities, were 
deservedly regarded by them as proper objects 
of inquiry. Your traveller, on his part, was 
solicitous, while abroad, to execute to your 
satisfaction his share in the enterprise, which 
you so generously supported ; and has since 
been assiduous in rendering the materials con- 
fided to him not unworthy of the Society, 
and of a favourable reception from the curious 
and learned. 

The spirit of discovery which prevails in 
this nation will ever be reckoned among its 
most honourable characteristics; and when 
the various attempts to which it has given 
rise shall be enumerated, and their produce 
examined, this, it is presumed, wiU be found 
of no inconsiderable value, but wiU receive 
its portion of praise, and reflect some lustre 
on the name of the Society of Dilettanti. 

I have the honour to be, with the greatest 
respect and deference. 

My Lords and Gentlemen, 
Your most obliged 

and most obedient 
humble Servant, 

RICHARD CHANDLER. 



PREFACE. 



XHE following Work cannot perhaps be more 
suitably prefaced than with the Instructions of the 
committee of Dilettanti, which the author has the 
leave of the Society to lay before the public ; and 
with a succinct account of the materials which the 
tour produced. 

« INSTRUCTIONS FOR MR. CHANDLER, MR.RE- 

" VETT, AND MR. PARS. 






Whereas the Society of Dilettanti have re- 
solved, that a person or persons, properly qualified, 
be sent with sufficient appointments to some parts 
^* of the Eastf in order to collect informations, and 
" to make observations, relative to the ancient state 
** of those countries, and to such monuments of an- 
tiquity as are still remaining; and the Society 
having further resolved, that a sum, not exceeding 
two thousand pounds, be appropriated to that pur- 
pose, and having also appointed you to execute 
** their orders on this head ; we, the committee in- 
^ trusted by the Society with the care and manage- 
** ment of this scheme, have agreed upon the folio w- 
" ing instructions for your direction in the discharge 
of that duty to which you are appointed. 
" 1. You are forthwith to embark on board the 
Anglicana, captain Stuart, and to proceed to 

Smyrna, where yoii will present to consul Hayes 

h2 



ft 
€4 



U 






XX PREFACE. 



(« 
(( 






the letters which have been delivered to you, from 
one of His Majesty's principal secretaries of state, 
" and from the Turkey company, and you will con- 
" suit with Mr. Hayes about the most eflFectual me- 
" thod of carrying those instructions into execu- 
« tion. 

** 2. Our principal object at present is^ that, fixing 
^^ upon Smyrna as your headquarters, you do from 
*^ thence make excursions to the several remains of 
antiquity in that neighbourhood, at such different 
times, and in such manner, as you shall, from the 
*^ information collected on the spot, judge most safe 
" and convenient, and that you do procure the ex- 
actest plans and measures possible of the build- 
ings you shall find, making accurate drawings of 
the bass*reliefs and ornaments, and taking such 
views as you shall judge proper ; copying all the 
inscriptions you shall meet with, and remarking 
every circumstance which can contribute towards 
giving the best idea of the anciept and present 
state of those places, 

" 3, As various circumstances, best learnt upon 
the spot, must decide the order in which ypju shiill 
proceed in the execution of the foregoing article^ 
" we shall not confine you. in .that respeet, and shall 
** only observe in general, that, by a judicious di^ri-^ 
" bution of your time and, business, you .may, with 
proper diligence, in about twelve months, visit 
every place worth your notice, within eight or ten 
days journey of Smyrna: it may be most ad- 
" visable to begin with such objects as are less dis- 
** tant from that city, and which may give you an 



(t 

it 
tt 

it 
it 
tt 
tt 



tt 
tt 



tt 
tt 
tt 



PHEFACE. xxi 



«£ 
it 






«< 
M 



Opportunity of soon transmitting to the Society a 
fipecimen of your labours. You will be exact in 
marking distances, and the direction in which you 
tRPirel^ 'by frequently observing your watches and 
'^pocket compasses, and you will take thd variation 
as often as you can. 

4. Though the principal view of the Society, in 
** tb& scheme, is pointed at such discoveries and ob- 
setvatiMs as ]roq shall be able to make with re- 
^ gard to the micient sftate of those countries, yet it 
^^ is by no means intended to cotifine you to that 
^* province ; on the contrary, it is ^cpected that 
you do report to us, for the information of the 
Society, whatever can &11 within the notice of 
curious and observiiig travellers ; and, in order to 
ascertain more fuHy our meaning on this head, we 
do hereby direct, that from the day of your de- 
parture irom hence, to that of your return, you 
* do, each of you, keep a very minute journal of 
« every day's occurrences and observations, repre- 
^ senting things exactly in the light tbey strike you, 
*^ in the plainest manner, and without any regard to 
style or language, except tiiat of being intelligible; 
and that you do deliver the same, with whatever 
drawings you shall have made, (which are to be 
** considered as the property of the Society,) to 
f^ Mr. Hayes, to be by him transmitted, as often as 
** conveyances shall offer, to us, under cover to Wil- 
**^liam Russell, esq. secretary to the Levatit coni- 
^^ pany, and you shall receive from us, throng the 
*^ »me channel, such further oMers as we shall judge 
" necessary. : 

b3 












it 
u 



xxii PREFACE, 

^^ 5« Having ordered the sum of two hundred 
^^ pounds to be invested in Mr. Chandler's handsi, to 
^^ defray all expenses which may be incurred tffl 
your arrival at Smyrna, we have also ordered a 
credit in your favour, to the amount of eight 
hundred pounds per annum, to commence from . 
the day of your arrival at that place, you giving 
drafts, signed by Mr. Chandler, and Mr. Revett or 
^^ Mr. Pars ; the whole to be disposed of as follows : 
viz. one hundred pounds a year to Mr. Revett ; 
eighty pounds a year to Mr. Pars, who are each of 
them to be paid one quarter in advance ; the re«^ 
maining six hundred and twenty is to be applied 
to the common purposes of the journey, by Mr. 
'' Chandler, who is to be treasurer, paymaster, and. 
accomptant, and may appropriate to his private 
use such part of that sum as he shall find ne^ 
<' cessary, informing us of his management of the 
^ common stock, and transmitting to us his account 
" from time to time. 

<< 6. And though our entire confidence in your 
*' piidence and discretion leaves us no room to 
'^ doubt, but that perfect harmony and good under« 
<' standing, which is so necessary, as weU to your 
^^ own happiness, as to the success f£ the undertake 
ing, will subsbt among you ; yet, in order to pre- 
vent any possible dispute, which might arise about 
^* difiei'ent measures, in the course of this expedi- 
<^ tion, we expressly declare, that the direction of 
^^ the whole is hereby lodged in Mr. Chandler, as- 
sisted by Mr. Revett : and though Mr. Revett and 
Mr. Pars should protest against any measure pro- 






(( 
<( 






PREFACE. xxiii 






posed by Mr. Chandler, it is our meaning, that any 
such difference of opinion should not in the least 
interrupt or suspend your operations, but that, at 
the same time that such persons as dissent from 
or disapprove of what is proposed, shall transmit 
'^ to us their reasons for such dissent, they do not- 
^^ withstanding continue to pursue Mr. Chandler's 
" plan, till they receive our further orders for their 
" conduct. 

** Given under our hands, at the Star and Garter, 
*^ this seventeenth day of May, 1764. 

« CHARLEMONT. 
« ROB. WOOD. 
« THO. BRAND. 
" WM. FAUQUIER. 
" JAMES STUART. 
"MIDDLESEX. 
« LE DESPENCER. 
" J. GRAY. 
" BESSBOROUGH.'^ 

^It may be proper to mention here, that Mr. Revett 
had given satisfactory evidence of his abilities as an 
architect in a work entitled Ruins of Athens ; 
which it will please the lovers of ancient elegance 
to know is still carrying on by his companion and 
fellows-labourer Mr. Stuart. Mr. Pars, a young 
painter, was recommended by his promising talents ; 
and justified the hopes conceived of him. He has 
lately published a set of views in Switzerland, being 
part of a collection made for the right honourable 

lord viscount Palmerston ; and is now preparing to 

b4 



xxiv PREFACE. 

study at Rome, with a stipend from the Society of 
Dilettatiti. 

The diligence of these gentlemen ww ja^j^S^sted 
in a large number of plans, yiews, and drawings, 
now in the possession of the Society ; many of them 
taken in the tour related in the eii3uing. yolume; 
and the remainder in Greece, particularly at Athens, 
Inhere we resided seyeral months, and wherie I made 
a very ch<)lce collection of ancient marbles, ,now ]ike- 
wi§fe 19 thi^ posj^ession of the Society. ' 

Soon after our return the Society generously 
ordered) that a specimen of these labours should be 
engraved and printed at their expense ; and to this 
work, wWch they permitted to be published, entitled 
Ionian Antiquities, the reader is sometimes referred 
in the following volume. The preface was written 
by the late excellent Mr. Wood, the editor of the 
Ruins of Palmyra and Balbec, who also drew up 
our instructions ; the account of the architecture by 
Mr. Revett; and the historical part by the relater. 
The remaining views have been finished by Mr. 
Pars ; and Mr. Revett is employed by the Society to 
complete the drawings of architecture* 

The other materials were a book of inscriptions 
and a journal of our tour, which the Society were 
pleased to bestow on me, to be examined at my 
leisure, apd published. The inscriptions, many of 
which are u!ncommonly curioup and andent, have 
be^n lately printed in a separate volume, it having 
been jud^d e^t^pediei^ te detach 'Hietai frdani thq 
journal. Si]cb of them* as ate connected with the 



PREFACE. XXV 

^ 

following work will be easily found by the learned 
reader in that collection, to which he is here re- 
ferred. 

The journal consisting of two parts, one of which 
relates to Asia Minor, the other to Greece, the 
former is now offered to the public; and, if fa* 
Yourably received, will be followed by the remaining 
volume. In this, no labour has been spared; the 
geography of the country is improved ; many mis- 
takes are rectified; and difficulties obviated or re- 

/ 

moved. 

The writer is aware, that he may be asked by 
the more curious reader, on what foundation he has 
mentioned certain barrows noW extant, as those of 
Achilles and other classical heroes ; as also his reason 
for supposing Nipbe to be still visible on mount Si- 
pylus. The e3says advertised at th^ end of this 
volume, are partly intended to satisfy any sucJi in- 
quirer. 

Oxford, 1775. • R, C. . 



CONTENTS. 



CHAP. I. 

Voyage to the strait of Gibraltar— Custom of the 8ailor»-*Our 

passage through the strait — ^A species of porpoise described— 

The sunset remarkable — Ancient accounts of it — ^The cause 

P. I 
CHAP. n. 

Voyage continued — Arrive at Genoa — ^Manner of fishing in the 
mole— The city— We set sail — ^At Leghorn - - 5 

CHAP. HL 

Sail from Leghorn— In the Archipelago-^Ruin of an ancient 
temple on Sunium— Pass Smyrna — ^Enter the Hellespont- 
Arrive at the inner castles — Quit the ship - -9 

CHAP. IV. 

Tttrics described — Reception on shore — ^Dinner-— The town— 
Tl]« river— The site of the two castles ascertained-— The 
night - - - - - - 14 

CHAP. V. 

We pass down the Hellespont— -Land in the Cherronese of 
Thrace— The town anciently £le(bh— Civility of the governor 
•—The barrow, &c. of Protesilaus - - - 18 

CHAP. VI. 

Sail to Tenedos— Situation and modem history of the island— 
The port and town — ^The antiquities— Greek recreations — 
The night — ^The morning — The consul returns - 20 

CHAP. VIL 

A Leave Tenedos— An antiquity on the island — ^Fountains— Their 
construction — Their use— Face of the island — Set sul for the 
continent - - - - - - 23 



xxviii CONTENTS. 

CHAP. VIII. 
Flight of cranes — View of Alexandria Troaa — ^Return to our 
boat — ^Mount Athq»-^iSiCanQtr of.fMUBiiig the night — ^Way back 
to the ruins - - - - - 27 

CHAT. IX. 

Policy of Alexander the Great — Alexandria Troas — Its situation 
— ^Ports — Appearance — Remains — ^The principal ruin — In- 
scriptions — The aqueduct-— Account of it— Of Attieus He- 
rodes — No churches ▼iaible— llie marbles removed - 3 1 

CHAP. X. 

An accident — ^At the vineyard — In want of provisions — Are Joined 
by the owner of 4^e vineyard-^In fear ef banditti - 38 

CHAP. XI. 

Invited to Chemali — We set out on foot — ^The hot baths-^Ar- 
rive at Chemali— ^ElemiunB of antiquity— Gnee CoIomb 40 

CHAP* xn. 

Coast by Troas — ^Enekioi — Giaurkioi, or Sigeum— -Antiquities at 
the church — ^Account of Sigeum — The famous Sigean stone 
part of a pilaster— The disposition of the lines on it*— Of the 
Greek alphabet — ^Age of the first inscription — Age of the se- 
cond — ^It lies neglected - - - ~ - - 44 

CHAP. xni. 

At Giaurinoi — ^Prospect of the plain«-*Fardiei' account <rf it-*— 
News of the corsu1<— 0»r plan disconcerted-^llie -evening — 
Barrows, of Achilles, &c. — At Chomkali • - 49 

CHAP. XIV. 

Land in lAie Cherronese— A panegyris, or general assembly of 
Greeks — ^Their mttsimns^-Their church-r-Arrive at the inner 
castle — Character of our Turks - - -53 

CHAP. :^v. 

Our embarrassment— -Arrival of an English ship— Its destination 
— ^We embark for Scio^-Quick passage - • 56 



CONTENTS. xm 

OHAP. XVI. 

Of Scie-^Its modem historj*— Reduced bytKeTik kd T hetowrll 

— Oreelr women- — Number of' dogs— -Manner of batiiing — 

The consul, &c. — ^Parties— The' wines*— The letotiflcte,' or 

mastic*tree— -The aatiquitied^^Temple of Cybele - 59 

CHAP. XVII. 

Set sail from Seio — Moor in a creek ---Weather cape Kara-" 
bomu — ^The inbat— View of Smyrna from the sea— The Frank 
street — ^The consul's house — ^Live chameleons - 68 

CHAR xvm. 

Ori^n of Smyrna — ^The site— Its prosperity— Roined*^The ci- 
tadel repaired — ^The Mahometan and Christian town»-*Suc- 
cess of Tamerlane — Smyrna reduced by the sultans — ^The pre- 
sent town-«-The citadel— The stadium and thea&e-^The port 
— ^The walls^-'-The sq>ulchre8-*-Coiisttmptaon of the old ma- 
terials — ^Tomb of St. Polycarp - - - 72 

CHAP. XIX. 

Smyrna a great mart^— The people-«-I>ma oi the womef»— 
Buildings — Heat, earthquakes, and plague — ^Burying-grounds 
— Provisions — Musquittoes, or gnats - - - 80 

CHAP. XX. 

Of the adjacent country — The river Meles — ^The inner bay — Old 
Smyrna — ^Ancient sepidchred— Origin of old Smyrna — Story of 
Horner^— Of another poet of Smyrna— llie aqueducts— "Hie 
cave of Homer — ^The river-god - - '86 

CHAP, XXI. 

The gulf of Smyrna — ^Menimen*— The river Hermus— *The strait 
— ^The shoals — ^The plain of the Hermus — ^The mouth — Of 
Leuce — The extremity of the plain — Of Phocea — Future 
changes to be expected - - - - 91) 

CHAP. XXII. 

Our firhman— -First journey from Smyrna*— A tendour^— Mildness 
of the winter at Smyrna — ^Return of the cranes — We prepare 
for. another journey — Rumour of the plague — Confirmed — Our 
embarrassment — Our second journey — ^Method - 97 



CONTENTS. 

CHAP. xxm. 

Seaooast oflonin Vouria reputed Clasomene— -The olive-groves 
—Vestiges of an andent bridge— The Agamemiioiiiaii hot 
baths— Their present state— Isthmus of the peninsula— ^The 
dike cut by Alexander — Villi^es— The town of Vouria 102 

CHAP. .XXIV. 
We search for Clazomene— Discover the mole — ^Pass over— The 
site — ^Islets— 'We repass — Origin of Vourla - - 107 

CHAP. XXV. 

Of the Kara-bomiotes*-Mount Mimas-^Night^-Arrive at Ery- 
thne— Thente — ^Islets— ^Remains - - - 110 

CHAP. XXVI. 

or the peninsula — Chisme— Mount Corycus — ^Mount Blimas — 
End of the peninsula — ^AtS^igeck — ^Antiquities — Cranes 115 

CHAP. XXVIL 

Situation of Teos — Bemains — The port, &c. — The temple of 
Bacchus — Teos deserted — A Venetian vessel - - 1 19 

CHAP. XXVIU. 

To Sevri-hissaiw-Quarries of marble — The town — The Diony- 
siastBy &c. ------ 121 

CHAR XXIX. 

We arrive at Hypsile— The Myonnesus— Hypsile a strong-hold 

12S 
CHAP. XXX. 

Hot waters — In the territory of Lebedus— ^me ruins — ^Lebedus 
—The island Aspis — The Dionysiasts - - 12fi 

CHAP. XXXI. 

We cross a torrent — ^Ascend mount Grallesus — ^Arrive at Zille, or 
Claros — ^Remains — Of the oracle and temple of Apollo — Of 
the oracular fountain and' cave — Of Colophon, Notium» and 
Claros— No remains of the two former — ^We arrive at Ephe- 
sus - - - . - - 127 



CONTENTS. xxxi 

CHAP. XXXII. 

IXbtance of Ephesua from Smymar— To Sedieui-^To the flourees 

of a river— To Tourbali— Of the Turcomaoft— Their booth»— 

To the Cayster— Arrive at Aiasaluck—Kelation of a Journey 

in 1705 134 

CHAP. xxxm. 

Aiasaluck — ^The evening — Remains— The castle— The motqu^ — 
The aqueduct — ^An ancient bridge * - - 140 

CHAP. XXXIV. 

Aiasaluck not Ephesus — ^Tamerlane at Aiasaluck — ^History of the 
two places confounded — Origin of Aiasaluck — ^Thunder-storm 
—A flood 144 

CHAP. XXXV. 

Ephesus — ^The stadium — ^The theatre— The odeum, &c.— The 
gymnasiuni — ^A street — ^Another — ^A temple — Square tower- 
Extent of the city— Avenues— -Prion» a mountain of marble— 
A place of burial — ^The quarries, &a • - - 147 

CHAP. XXXVI. 

& old Ephesus— The city of the lonians — ^An oracle— Of An- 
droclus— -The city of Lysimachus— The port— Modem history 
of Ephesus— Its decline— The present Ephesians— Its deplor- 
able condition ---•.- 157 

CHAP, xxxvn. 

The Selenusian lakes— A fishery — ^The Cayster-— Road on Gal- 
lesus— New land — ^Port Panormus-— The island Syrie - 162 

V 

CHAP, xxxvni. 

Of the temple of Diana — ^The idol— ^Account of it — ^The priests, 
&c. — Self-manifestations of the goddess— An Ephesian decree 
—Remarks - - - - - - 164 

CHAP. XXXIX. 

The spot chosen for the temple of Diana — Skill of the architects 
—The new temple — ^Its magnificence— The asylum — ^The tem- 
ple not in the city— Plundered— Its destruction unnoticed— 
The supposed site-^A Sibylline prophecy - * 169 



xTood CONTENTS. 

OttA'P. XL. 
We lcav»' AiaMduck^&oBd to Scala Nova— Of Phygela-i-df 
OrtTguir^The lower way to Scala Nova — Changea— Of Scala 
Nova 175 

CHAP. XLI. 

We continue our Journey — ^Mount Mycale and Trogilium — ^At 
Suki-We paas Priene-Perpli»ted in tte plain - 176 

CHAP. XLU. 

The theatre at Miletus^— Inscription on the wall— Other remains 
—The mosquei &b^-»Modem history of Miletus— Its ancient 
gUBatnesB * - - - - - 181 

CHAP. XLIII. 

The aga of Suki — ^To Ura — ^To Branchidse— Port Panormus — A 
water there*— Ruin of the temple of Apollo Didymsus-^ Other 
vemidns^ ...... 185 

CHAP. XLIV. 

At the temple — At Ura — Ignorance of the Turks— Their huts — 

We continue our journey — ^The confines of Ionia with Caria 

189 
CHAP. XLV. 

Of the ionians^-^Their general assembly^-I^nionium-^Story of 
the city Helice - - - - - 191 

CHAP. XLVI. 

We set but from Sk^a Nova — Separate and lose our way — ^Be- 
nighted on 'mount Mycale — Goatherds— To Changlee — ^To Pa- 
nionium— To Kelibesh - - - - 193 

CHAP. XLVII. 

At Kelibesh— ^ngari, or gypsies — ^WoAien lamenting— Easter — 
A phenomenon — ^Remark - - - - 197 

CHAP. XLVm. 

The citadel of Priene — ^Descent from it — ^Remains of the city — 
The wall and gateways-^Taken by Bajazet - - 1 99 



CONTENTS. xxxiii 

CHAP. XLIX. 

Mount Titanus-— Rocks in the plain — ^The Msander — ^We are 
entangled on the mountain — ^Benighted — Arrive atMyus 202 

CHAP. L. 

Of Myu8 — ^The site and remans — Graves, &c; — An oratory*— An- 
other — Ruined churches and monasteries — Of Thymbria— 
Gnats and flies - - - > - 205 

CHAP. LI. 

The lake of Myus— An islet— A rock in the lake— Another islet 
— ^Another-— Junction of the lake with the Maeander— Altars 
and niches ------ 209 

CHAP. LU. 

Tirst discovery of Myus— To Mersenet— To Miletiis-^To Oran- 
duick — ^The iaighlr*»To Suki and Smyrna — ^Remark on 'the 
water-course in the plain — ^Account of a journey in 1 673 — ^Re- 
marks on it - - - - - 213 

CHAP. LHI. 

The Meander muddy — The bed — ^Its course to the lake-— To the 
sea — Change in the face of the region — ^Its ancient geography 
— ^The islands before Miletus — ^The rocks of Osebasha — ^In- 
crease of land — Its progress unnoticed— 'Future encroach- 
ments - - . - - - - 218 

CHAP. LIV. 

We enter Caria — ^At Ghauzocleu — ^Booths of the Turcomans 
— ^lasus — ^Remains of the city— The sepulchres— ^Inscriptions 
— lasian marbles at Scio— Journey continued. - 225 

CHAP. LV. 

Increase of land — Hillock in a plain — ^Booths of the Turcomans 

— Site of Bargyliar— Of Kindye — Of Caryanda — ^We arrive at 

M^lasa — ^The Turkish play of the Jarrit — Our visit to the aga. 

230 
CHAP. LVI. 

Of Mylasa — ^The temple of Augustus — A column — Of Euthy- 
demus — An arch or gateway — Other remains — A sepulchre 

CHANDI/EB, ASIA M. C 



nxrr CONTENTS. 

— One cut in the rock-«**-i[nuaph& of Jkpiter — Of the doable^ 
hatdtet • • - ^ «« . 238 

CHAP. LVBL 

To Eald-hissar — Remains ef StnUoniceat — ^Its history— Mount 
Tsnirai^-/reBpk6 of HeeAl& mA Jupilfti ilnniwiptionft ilii- 
tvoduction of tobacco and oolibe laio Twfcfy' Aaifwiar te a 
query . - • - ^ ^ 289 

CHAP. Lvm. 

iVon Ifylasa to lasus^^To Mendde^«-*A tainpif An anciant 
torni— 4>f Labtanda and the teMple of Jopi t Big ■ In ac ri p rinni '- 
The mountain-^We re-enter Ionia . . <» 2A4 

CHAP. USL 

We leave Myus«-<^11ie mcnutain by Mpndotol Souwmw of a nver 
«^-At CavpuseK— t^pukhres and a 8tafiuiiH<-<Otber remainsp— 
AfaKbanda«--The riv^r HafpawwH-Tbt Maroder - 848 

CHAP. LX. 

Pococke*8 journey to Carpuseli — To Myksa— To Eski-hissary or 

Stratonieea, and jdaoes ad^BecM^rr-^To AiabirUtsar* or AUsiift 

* 862 

CHAP. LXI. 

OfGageJ-hiiBKr Intalligenoe of the pbgu&r-Tbe bashar-p*IVight 
of our janizary'^-Biagnesia— The river Lethseus-^Tfae ranains 
«— Of Hyl» — ^Distance from Ephesus and Tralles - 255 

CHAP, UOL 

Of Trallea and Sy aa ■■Chaiaear^TraUea resixired l^ Augustus 
Ciesar — ^Destroyed by the Turk»— 4Rebidll>»-rOf Briul% Mas- 
taura, and Armata - - - - - 260 

CHAP. Lxm. 

We anwe «t Sukap-hiflBfti ■ Of Eskirhwar-trrThe tuppoaed site 
gi Trattes-^^ysa— i^proaob to TBallsa and NyBa-rllle re- 
mains of Tralles — Origin of Sultan-hissar — Proximity of Tralles 
and Nysar— Continue our journey - » - ^ 264 



COBTTBirPSL 

QUAT. LXIV. 

Oi As^kadm, ikmima^ and Qthiwtti Kcfeaarfg mote t^ NmAI 

HeniBEiaH-feeocltt I route tot Jcni-fliMiE aad C S ttj f jJi E oads, 
and 4]8ta]ice» of places • . - . ^68 

CHAT. liXV. 

Oar jQMraii^ ceoi^wedhrTbe Aam 
a^dtti^rr4teiu«r-4liiin oPa byidp»i.iA koit fpdng - 373 

CHAP. LXVI. 

Our journey continuedp-^S^iMafile *f Men Cams — ^Denisli — ^The 
Tnrka imcivimtif^Attw at I#QdM?c»?rCto tent Imwtr-Oay 
jani2Eai!}i saiac d j.! B ebeviaup «f an agarT«'TUeve;b7T-''Xli«^ w^- 

CHAR LXVII. 

Of Laodicea— The ampMthe atto ■ * A n inscription^-A ruin — ^The 
edfuw. Bptlier rcMeba^ and tm» theafaearr-Tke. UU-«The 
Hve B a i L M odam hiatoiy oC Irfio di cea ?? ? *^ 2H0 

^ CHA?. 14V]BL 
We set out for Pambouk, or Hieiaqn()tia-r!&t(i|ppedr--OMllirieur 
of an aga — ^The cliff, &c. — Quality of the soil about the M«- 
ander — ^Hot waters of Hieiapolia'-^Anether difl^Poetical ac- 
count of tbe olifF ? r <« !« * 889 

CHAP. LXIX. 

Remains of Hierapoli8-**The tfaeatre'^Ancient manner of sittuig 
-**Ufle e£ tiie hot waJtertr-The pQp(r-1ke PliOwKivqur-^Ouv 
disappointment . • . • • 290 

CHAP. l-XX. 
Of C o lo8 fff» Mn4 tjie hjcmr^Bififi of the Jifnoaiidpr and thi^ Mfir<* 
ajFafr^^CehrasB^ApamtHi CU><^;i9^-hC<hiiw Qf *« Mawiid#«'— 
Apamea aubject to efff4iquak^*-r>IU«tt9. of Xerxes, inio Lydia 

. S{94 
CHAP. LXXL 

Piceninrs journey to Chonos— To Ptoibouk — ^Pococke*8 journey 
to Chonos^-Remarks^-'J^oeoeke'B journey continued — ^Dinglar, 
ApMaBft^iabecleh» Cel«n9 .... 2!}ii 



xxxvi CONTENTS. 

CHAP. Lxxn. 

We are embroiled at Hierapolis — Retire to our tent^— Fl^H-Ford 
the Meander— ^Our eon&c, or reating-place-^-Booths of the 
Turcomaiifl-^-Riihift of Tripolis-^Its history^^-Arrive at Bid- 
lada 302 

CHAP. Lxxm. 

Our mode of living— Mount Tmolus-— The region named Cata- 
kekaumene— The river Hennus— 'We arrive at Ala-flliahir,=or 
Philadelphia 306 

CHAP. LXXIV. 

Of Philadelphia — ^Its modem history — ^The present town — ^A mi- 
neral spring, and the supposed wall of bones— Disuse of the 
Greek tongue — Civility of the people^— News of the plague — 
We arrive at Sardes - - - - - 309 

CHAP. LXXV. 

Of Sardes— Taken by Cyrus— *The town burnt by the Ioniaii»— 
Surrenders to Alexander— Suflfers from an earthquake — ^Its 
later history — ^The theatre — ^A stratagem of Antiochus — Other 
remains — ^The hill, and Pactolus — ^The village"*— Ruin of a 
tetnple— Perhaps of Cybele - - - - 313 

CHAP. LXXVl. 

The road to Ephesus — Of Larissa — ^The region called Asis — 
Hyppoea— Biigh^ — ^The road from Pergamum to Sardes 319 

CHAP. LXXVII. 

ChishulFs journey to Birghd — to Tyria— to Ephesus— Account 
ofTyria .-.--. 322 

CHAP. Lxxvni. 

We cross the Hermus — At Bazocleu — ^The Grygaean lake — Its 
history — The cemetery of the Lydian kings — ^The barrow of 
Alyattes — Custom of the Greeks — Remarks on the barrow — 
The difficulty of examining its contentS'»-Of the ancient Ly- 
dians - - - - - - 324 

CHAP. LXXIX. 

We regain the road to Magnesia — ^The weather — ^At Durguthli— 



CONTENTS. xxxvii 

To mount Sipylus — Of the city Sipylus and Sale — ^To Mag- 
nesia-*-Of Niobe - - - - - 329 

CHAP. LXXX. 

History of Magnesia — The present town — Tlie royal mosques— 
A mausoleum — ^The castle— Of the Hyllus - - 332 

CHAP. LXXXI. 

Our embarrassment — Insecurity at Magnesia— The plague at 
Thyatira^-We set out for Smyrna — ^At Hadgilar — At Sedicui 
—A Greek - - - - - - 334 

CHAP. Lxxxn. 

Of Sedicui — ^Manner of watering the gardens— An engine— The 
mountain — Our house — ^Provisions— Our market-man — Mis- 
conduct of a servant-— Our manner of living— The tettix— The 
weather— An earthquake .... 338 

CHAP. Lxxxm. 

Beginning of the plague— Some accidents — Its fiiry— Its proba- 
ble cause— How communicated — Not pestilential, or in the air 
•—Uncontrolled — In&tuation of thetTurks - - 345 

CHAP. LXXXIV. 

Duration of the plague — It appears at Sedicui — Its cessation — 
We return to Smyrna — ^Prepare to leave Asia - - 350 



CBANDLEB, ASIA M. 



TRAVELS 



IN 



ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. I. 

VOYAGE TO THB STRAIT OF GiBaALTAR-— CUSTOM OF THE 
SAILORS — OUR PASSAGE THROUGH THE STRAIT — ^A SPE- 
CIES OF PORPOISE DESCRIBED-— THE SUNSET REMARK- 
ABLE ANCIENT ACCOUNTS OF IT — THE CAUSE. 

W^E embarked at Gravesend on the 9th of June, 
1764, in the Anglicana, a ship carrying sixteen guns, 
and thirty-two men, burden about three hundred 
tons. The commander was captain John Stewart ; 
the price of our passage to Turkey sixty guineas. 
We had a fair wind ; but our pilot, being in liquor, 
did not sail^ that evening. 

On Whitsunday, early in the morning, we got 
under way with a brisk gale, and arrived in the 
Downs about four in the afternoon. The next day 
we weighed anchor again, and proceeded to Fal- 
mouth to complete our cargo. We were detained 
there from the 17th to the 24th, when we recovered 
our anchor with some difficulty, and got clear of the 
harbour. A signal was made for a pilot, but he did 
not come on board soon enough to be of use. 

The wind had been very high while we were in 
the port of Falmouth, and the weather was still un- 

CHANDLEE, ASIA M. B 



2 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

settled. Black louring clouds rendered the morn- 
ing of our departure uncommonly gloomy and awfiiL 
After a heavy shower of rain w« were becalmed in 
the mouth of the channel, the water heaving prodi- 
giously, with the surface quite smooth and unbroken. 
We were carried along by the current, and land 
soon disappeared. We now encountered foul wea^ 
ther and contrary winds. The ship seemed but a 
wherry, and was agitated exceedingly by the sea, 
pitching and rolling, the waves frequently bursting 
over, and the swell affecting some of our oldest 
mariners. 

On the 8d of July we made the rock of Lisbon. 
We had then a strong gale, and sailed at the rate of 
nine knots, or miles, in an hour. We had run one 
hundred and seventy knots in the last twenty-four 
hours. We here saw a grampus or whale spouting 
up water, which, in fisilling, formed a mist not unlike 
the smoke from a flash of gunpowder. It blew hard 
in the night, and the next evening we could difr* 
cem cape 8t. Vincent. 

As we now approached near to the Meditemu 
nean, some of the sailors had got a strong new rope,, 
and prepared it for ducking such of the crew as were 
novices in this sea. They were to be let down from 
the yard-arm, with their hands and £eet tied to two 
bars of wood, placed at convenient distances ; but 
when every thing was ready, they all preferred the 
alternative, which is a small forfeit to be deducted 
from their pay. 

Our passage through the strait of Gibraltar was 
amusing and deh'ghtful beyond imagination. The 
coast on each side is irregular, adorned with lofty 
grotesque mountains of various shapes, the majestic 



T&AVEJLS IN ASIA MINOR. 8 

tops worn white wilth rain, and loc^ng as crowned 
with snow. From one of the narrow valleys a ihick 
smoke arose. The land is of a brown complexion, 
as suobunit and barren. Oo the Spanish diore are 
many watditowers, ranging along to a great extent, 
designed to alarm the country by signals on the ap« 
pearaoce of an enemy. We had Spanish and Moor- 
ish towns in view, with the rock and fortress of 
Gibraltar. Sea-birds were flying, and numerous 
smaU-craftmovingto and fro on every quarter. We 
had a gentle breeze, and our sails all set, with the 
current from the western or Atlantic ocean in our 
favour. In this, the water was agitated and noisy, 
like a shallow brook running over pebbles ; while in 
the oofitrary currents, it was smooth and calm as in 
a miU pond, except where disturbed by alhicores, 
porpoises, and sea-monsters, which sported around 
us, innumerable. Their burnished sides r^Bected 
the rays of the sun, which then shone in a pictu^ 
resque sky of dear azure, softened by thin fleecy 
clouds, imparting cheerfuhiess to the waves, which 
seemed to smile on us. 

Our entry into the Mediterranean is here faintly 
described, as no words can convey the ideas excited 
by scenes of so much novelty, grandeur, and beauty. 
The vast ass^nbkge of bulky monsters, in particu* 
lar, was beyond measure amazing ; some leaping up, 
as if aiming to divert us ; some approadiing the 
ship, as it were to be seen by us, floating together, 
abreast, and half out of the water. We counted in 
one company fourteen of the species called by the 
sailors the bottle nose, each, as we guessed, about 
twdve feet long. These are almost shapeless, look* 
ing black and oily, with a large thick fia on the 

B 2 



4 TBATELS IK ASIA MINOB. 

tiack, no eyes or mouth discernible, the head rounded 
at the extremity, and so joined with the body, as to 
render it diflScult to distinguish where the one ends, 
or the other begins ; but on the upper part is a hole 
about an inch and a half in diameter, from which, 
at regular intervals, the log-like being blows out 
water accompanied with a puff audible at some dis- 
tance. 

To complete this wonderful day, the sun before 
its setting was exceedingly big, and assumed a va- 
riety of fantastic shapes. It was surrounded first 
with a golden glory, of great extent, and flamed 
upon the surface of the sea in a long column of fire. 
The lower half of the orb soon after immerged in 
the horizon, the other portion remaining very large 
and red, with half of a smaller orb beneath it, and 
separate, but in the same direction, the circular rim 
approaching the line of its diameter. These two by 
degrees united, and then changed rapidly into diffe- 
rent figures, until the resemblance was that of a ca- 
pacious punch-bowl inverted. The rim of the bot- 
tom extending upward, and the body lengthening 
below, it became a mushroom on a stalk, with a 
round head. It was next metamorphosed into a 
flaming caldron, of which the lid, rising up, swelled 
nearly into an orb, and vanished. The other por- 
tion put on several uncircular forms, and, after many 
twinklings and faint glimmerings, slowly disappeared, 
quite red ; leaving the clouds, hanging over the dark 
rocks on the Barbary shore, finely tinged with a 
vivid bloody hue. 

And here we may recollect, that the ancients had 
various stories concerning the setting of the sun in 
the Atlantic ocean ; as, for instance, that it was ac- 



TKAYELS IK A5IA MINOB. 5 

companied with a noise, as of the sea hissing, and 
that night immediately followed. That its magni- 
tude in going down apparently increased, was a po- 
pular remark, but had beeii contradicted by an au- 
thor, who observed thirty evenings at Gades, and 
never perceived any augmentation. One writer had 
affirmed, that the orb became an hundred times 
bigger than its common size \ 

This phenomenon will vary^ as it depends on the 
state of the atmosphere. It is likely to be most re- 
markable when westerly winds have prevailed for 
some time ; these coming over the Atlantic ocean, 
and bringing with them the gross vapours, which 
arise continually, or are exhaled, from that immense 
body of water. 



CHAP. II. 

VOYA6B CONTINUED— ARRIVE AT GENOA — MANNER OF 
FISHING IN THE MOLE — THE CITY — ^WE SET SAIL — ^AT 
LEGHORN. 

Xhe Anglicana being freighted for Genoa and 
Leghorn, we now shaped our course for the former 
port. We were becalmed, on the 7th of July, near 
the coast of Spain, off cape de Gatte. We then had 
heavy showers and hard gales, by which we were 
driven out of our way, and our masts endangered. 
Light airs and clear weather followed ; the sky blue, 
and spread with thin fleecy clouds. We had a view 
of several Spanish towns, and of St. PhiUp's castle in 
the island of Minorca. We found the days lengthen 
as we advanced northward; and the wind, with a 

• Strabo, p. 1 38. 
b3 



6 TSATEL9 IN ASIA MISOSU 

bright sun, very cold, coming from the Alps. We 
stood for Corsica with a brisk gale and a great swells 
which took us on the weather side ; the waves dia-* 
tincty vast, and black, breaking with white tops^ In 
the night it blew hard. We shipped Sjpveral large 
seas, and rolled and tossed prodigiously. The gulf 
of Lyons almost equalled in turbulence the bay of 
Biscay. 

We were becalmed, on the 17th of July, off cape 
de MeUe ; and then bad a fine gale, and approached 
Italy at the rate of twelve miles an bouir. The 
pharos of Genoa appeared as a tall i»Ilar, the coast 
picturesque and mountainous, its slopes covered with 
white houses, looking from the sea as one continued 
city. We now regretted that the evening was near, 
fearing the land-breeze would spring up before we 
could get into the mole. It became hazy along 
shore, and the glorious prospect vanished. The 
breeze ceased, and the vessel seemed without mo- 
tion. On one of the mountains a bright flame as- 
cended *, and round about us, on the water, were 
several fires made by fishermen in their boats, one 
6f Which we bailed. 

The ship glided on toward the shore, almost in-- 
sensibly, until the knd'-breeze reached us, scented 
with the delicious fragrance of odorous trees and 
flowering shrubs. We then fell to the eastward, to 
wait for a current, which sets in before morning. 
The night was still and clear. The moouy in Jts 
wane, gleamed on the waves and mountains. The 
coast was spangled with lights from the houses, whidi 
were overtopped by that of the pharos. We could 
hear distinctly, at intervals, the bells of the churches 
and convents, which sounded sweetly soft and pen- 



TEAVSLS IN ASIA MINOR. 7 

shre. Early the next day we came to an anchor in 
the port« 

An Italian proverb affirms, that the Genoese have 
sea without ^k. However, from the great demand 
fisr that article x>f diet, the water is continually ha^ 
rassed. We had frequent opportunities of seeing 
the method of fishing within the mole. Several 
seines are united and extended so as to form a large 
aemiciccie, but much curved at the two extremities. 
The men then retire to some distance, and begin 
clatterii^ with sticks or hammers on the sides <^ 
their boats; the noise, as is observed of thunder, 
oemking the fish rise. One, stationed on the yard^ 
lorm of a ship^ takes notice which way they swim, 
and gives directions, until they are within the net, 
jwfaen they are driven towards the ends, and are 
soon entangled; or, trying from despair to leap 
over, fall on a wing, which is fastened to long reeds, 
and kept floating horizontally on the surface. The 
reward of much toil was, now and then, a few gray 
aiuUet. The thynnus, or tunny-fish, was anciently, 
and. is now taken nearly in this manner, but in 
fihoab, which endanger and often break the nets. 
. We were delighted at Genoa with the magnifi- 
eent chiinches, the marble palaces, the pieces of ex- 
cdtent sculpture, and the many noble i»ctures, which 
adorn so profusely that admired city. But this splen- 
dour, is contrasted by the general poverty and mi- 
sery of the peojde. Beggars pestered us exceedingly; 
and a great number of persons occurred, variously, 
and often most shockingly deformed, witnessing early 
violence; nature, when uncontrolled, rarely failing 
to be regular, if not beautiful m her productions. 
One evening we saw a man amuse the populace by 

B 4 



8 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOB. 

performing on a sladc rope^ which croraed the street; 
and, among other extraordinary feats, he hui^ by 
the neck, swinging, and clapping his hands at in- 
tervals. 

We tarried at Genoa until the 25th of July, when 
we weighed anchor and got out of the nude in the 
night On the second day we passed the island 
Gorgogna^ by which were many sail of small-craft 
fishing under shore for anchovies. We were be- 
calmed all night about three leagues from L^hom. 
St. Antony was blamed for this delay, and punished 
in effigy by some of the sailors, who made an image 
with a piece of wood, which they clothed and threw 
overboard at the end of a line ; a couple of naik, 
which were driven in, keeping the head downwards 
in the water. He was dragg^ in this manner until 
a breeze commenced, when they took him into the 
ship with caresses. In the afternoon we moored 
within the mole. 

We had been advised to carry with us mon^, for 
our journey, in crown-pieces of silver, called impe- 
rial tallerie, from Leghorn. Mr. Rutherfttrd, an 
English merchant, accepted our bills on a banker in 
London ; and, on our arrival at Smyrna,, we found 
that we gained more than five per cent, on the mo- 
ney we had imported, not including insurance, 
freight, and consulage, which, by the Anglicana, 
would have amounted to about two per cent, and 
that drawing on Leghorn from Smyrna would be 
nine and a half per cent, better, according to the 
then exchange, than drawing directly from Smyrna 

b We passed Gorgona Dfben we set out from Leghorn, and saw 
a laige fleet of fishlDg-boats off that islaiKl. R. 



TBAYELS IK ASIA MINOR. 9 

on London, exclusive of the beforementioned ex* 
penses. 

We were detained at Leghorn by foul wither, 
the wind south, with thunder, lightning, and rain; 
the air thick and hazy. Some ships, which had 
put to sea, were forced back again. We went daily 
on shore. One evening I was amused by a quack, 
who was very familiar with a viper, kissing and 
winding it about his head and neck. It remained 
twisted round the latter, while he harangued the 
crowd on the virtues of his medicines. Among these 
was a pill, on which he expatiated as of singular 
efficacy; and which, he affirmed, possessed the 
wonderful property to distinguish by whom it was 
taken; constantly withholding its beneficial opera- 
tion from all schismatics and heretics, particularly 
the En^sh. 



chap: III. 

SAIL FROM LEGHORN — IN THE ARCHIPELAGO— RUIN OF AN 

ANCIENT TEMPLE ON SUNIUM ^PASS SMYRNA — ^BNTER 

' THE HELLESPONT — ^ARRIVE AT THE INNER CASTLES 

QUIT THE SHIP. 

On the 10th of August we got out of the mole of 
Leghorn into the road, and early next morning set 
sail with a light and pleasant breeze. In the even- 
ing we were becalmed on the east side of the island 
Cabrera, in view of a fishing town. A brisk gale, 
with rain, issued from clouds resting on the moun- 
tains. A calm then followed, after which the wind 
veered about every moment. We had now left 
Monte Christo astern. In the afternoon it thun- 
dered, and a most violent squall overtook us, with 



10 TEAYELS IK ASIA MIKOE^ 

rain^ which quite obscared the sky. We had wain* 
ing given us by a mighty agitation of the waves, 
and were prepared to receive it. The wind con- 
tinued very high, and we made great way. In the 
morning it was fair, and almost adm« We were 
then in sight of Sardinia* 

, ^ A gentle breeze springing up on the evening of 
the 14th of August, wafted us by Maritimo, a rocky 
island, on which is a fishing town. The next night 
we saw many lights on the coast of Sicily. We 
sailed with a fine gale l^ Sergentum, a large town 
on the slope of some hiUs. The air was exceedin^y 
hot, and hazy over the land. We were becalmed 
beyond Malta in a chopping sea, and tossed prodi- 
giously ; but, on Sunday the 19th, a pleasant breeze 
commenced, )vhidi continued to follow us, without 
intermission, quite through the Archipelago or M^ 
gaean sea. We had seen a few turtles floating, and 
this day many porpoises approached very near us, 
some leaping out of the water, some turning, as if 
in pursuit of their prey, and darting through it with 
incredible swiftness. . . 

On the 21 St we were in view of the high-land of 
Modona, which had white clouds hanging over it, 
in the Morea or Peloponnesus ; and, before evening, 
of the cape named T^narum, now Matapan, which 
is the extremity of a mountain, sloping graduaUy to 
a point, having before it a piked rock. The disk 
of the setting sun was indented by the imeven tops 
x>f some remote hiUs, and the illuminated portioa 
grew less and less, until it appeared as a small, star. 
The next night we shortened sail, being near land, 
and time moon rising late. In the morning we ap- 
proached Cythera or Cerigo. A rock called the 



TEATBLS IN AtfiA ]fIKO&« 11 

Egg, at the west end of the island, with the Two 
Brothers, which stand out in the water, renders 
the pass dangerous to ships in the dark. 

We sailed hy cape Malea, now St. Angelo, the 
sea almost smooth, but the waves swelling at inter* 
vals, with a hollow noise, and seeming to pursue us. 
We had the small island of Hydre in view at sun- 
set; with that called anciently Belbina, now St. 
George d'Albora, a-head. The horizon was hazy, 
and it was the opinion of our sailors, that the friend* 
ly gale, which had accompanied us so long, was still 
likely to continue. 

Our attention had been, for some time, ^eeably 
engaged by the classical country, which surrounded 
us, and we were now near Sunium or cape Ckdonne, 
and the coast ci Attica. We regretted the approach 
of night, but the wind slackened, and in the morn- 
ing we could see the mountains Hymettus and Pen- 
tele ^« and the island ^gina, and Calaurea or Poro in 
the Saronic gulf. At eleven, August the 23d, we 
had a distinct view of the ruin of the temple of Mi- 
nerva Sunias on the promontory, and, hy the help 
of a reflecting telescope, could count the number of 
the columns then standing. 

We sailed close by the island Cea, which was of 
a parched aspect, with a few green trees on' it, scat- 
tered among enclosures, windmills, and solitary 
churehes or ehapels.-^ One of these, dedicated to St. 
£lias, stands on the summit of a high mountain. 
We had a brisk sky, and the sea, gently agitated by 
the wind, resembled a wide stream ; but the tops of 
the mountains of Andros and of Euboea were enve- 

^ Parnes. R. 



19 TBATELS IN ASIA HINOE. 

loped in thick clouds and awful darkness. We 
steered between the two islands, and had a fine run 
in the night. 

The next morning we had passed Psyra, corrupt- 
ly called Ipsera : Sdo was on our right hand ; Les- 
bos or Mitylene on our left ; and the mouth of the 
gulf of Smyrna not very remote before us. The 
plague, as we were informed at Leghorn, having 
appeared at this place in the spring, our captain 
was unwilling to arrive there before it should have 
ceased, and now resolved to proceed directly to 
Constantinople. The gale was fair, and the oppor-. 
tunity too favourable to be neglected, it being com- 
mon in summer to meet with a contrary wind, and 
to be detained on the sea, or forced to anchor off 
Tenedos. We were opposite cape Baba or Lectos, 
a promontory of M. Ida, in the evening ; and had 
in view Tenedos and Lemnos, and the main land 
both of Europe and Asia. We could discern fires 
on Lesbos^ as before on several islands and capes, 
made chiefly by fishermen and shepherds, who live 
much abroad in the air ; or to bum the strong stalks 
of the Turkey wheat and the dry herbage on the 
mountains. In the daytime a column of smoke 
often ascends, visible afar. 

Saturday, August the 25th, the sun rising beauti- 
fully behind M. Ida, disclosed its numerous tops, 
and brightened the surface of the sea. We were 
now entering the Hellespont, with the Troad on 
our right hand, and on the left the Cherronese, or 
peninsula of Thrace. About six in the morning we 
were within Sig^um, and the opposite promontory 
Mastusia. They are divided by a very narrow strait. 
We then passed between the two castles erected by 



TBAVS1.8 IN ASIA MIKOR. 13 

Mahomet the Fourth in 1659: that on the European 
side stands high, the other low ; and by each is a 
town. These structures, with the houses, the grace- 
fill minarees or turrets of the mosques, the domes 
and cypresses, the mountains, islands, and shining 
water, formed a view exceedingly delicious. The 
cocks ' crowed ashore, and were answered by those 
in our coops on board, the waves broke on the Asia- 
tic beach with an amusing murmur, and the soft air 
wafted fragrance. 

We now saw a level and extensive plain, the 
scene, as we conceived, of the battles of the Iliad, 
with barrows of heroes, and the river Scamander, 
which had a bank or bar of sand at the mouth. The 
stream was then inconsiderable, but, we were told, 
is in winter frequently swollen to a great size, and 
discolours the sea far without the promontories. 
The shore of the Cherronese, as we advanced, was 
steep, of a dry barren aspect, and contrasted by the 
Asiatic coast, which rises gently, M. Ida terminating 
the view. The width of the Hellespont, the smooth- 
ness of the water, and the rippling of the cuiTent, 
reminded us of the Thames. Xerxes but slightly 
degraded it, when he styled it a salt river. 

We now approached the inner castles, which were 
erected by Mahomet the Second, aiid command a 
very narrow strait, dividing the two continents. By 
each is a town ; and at that in Asia was hoisted a 
white flag, near the seaside, and also a red one 
with the cross. These belonged to the English and 
French nations. As we had agreed to land here, 
the captain, when we were abreast with the Asiatic 
castle, brought the ship to, and made a signal for a 
scheick or wherry to come along ade. Our bag- 



14 TEAVB1.8 IN ASIA MINOR. 



gage was lowered into it with great expedition, and 
we quitted the ship, whidi find three guns, and 
sailed away* 



CHAP. IV. 

TURKS DESCRIBED RECEPTION ON SHORE — ^DINNER — THB 

XOWN-^THB RIVER — THE SITE OF THE TWO CASTLES AS- 
CBETAINSD— ^HE NIGHT. 



After leaving the Anglicana, we had scaroely 
tim^ to contemplate the savage figures of our boat- 
men, who had their necks and arms bare, and their < 
faces yellow from the sun, before we reached laud. 
The current carried us below the castle, where we 
saw on the shore two Turkish women. But what 
figures! each wrapped in a white sheet, shapeless, 
and stalking in boots. A company of Turks, as^ 
sembled on the beach to view the ship, seemed, as it 
were, a new species of human beings. They were 
in general large and tall ; some with long, comely or 
venerable beards, of a portly mien and noble pre- 
sence, to which their high turbans and loose gar- 
ments, of various lively colours, greatly contributed ; 
adding, besides their majesty, to the apparent bulk 
of the wearers. 

We were received on shore by the English con- 
sul, a fat well-looking Jew, who, after bidding us 
welcome in broken Italian or Lingua Franca, con- 
ducted us through the town to his house, in the 
quarter assigned to that nation. We ascended some 
stairs into a room, which had a raised floor, covered 
with a carpet. Round three sides was a low so& 
with cushions for leaning. The cooling breeze en- 



TSAYELB IH ASIA MltsfOB. 15 



jtered at the wooden lafidces of the windows. Their 
Um^= not pemutting the Jews to touch fire on their 
sabbath, our host was in distress about our enters 
tainment. However we were soon presented with 
the customary refreshments, a pipe of lighted to- 
bacco ; a spoonful of sweetmeat, put into our mouths ; 
soEid coffee in a china cup, which was placed in one of 
filigree work, to prevent it from bummg our fin- 
gers. The consul then introduced to us a yoimg 
man, his brother, and his wife and daughter; the 
latter a giii in a long white vest, with a zone about 
her middle, her feet naked, her nails dyed red, her 
hair platted, and hanging down her back. She 
came to us, and taking the right hand of each «e* 
paratdy, kissed and gently moved it to her fore-* 
head. 

' We found some difficulty in complying with the 
(mental mode of sitting cross-legged, but at dinner 
it was necessary, the table being only a large low 
galver, placed on the carpet. A variety of dishes 
were served up in quick succession, and we were 
supplied as rapidly with cups of wine. We had 
no plates, or knives and forks^ but used our fingersi 
The whole repast and the apparatus was antique. 
It concluded with fruits of wholesome quality and 
exquisite flavour^ figs and melons, such as are pecu^^ 
Har to hot climates, and grapes in large and rich 
clusters, fresh from the vineyard. The consul ate 
with ns, while his brother waited, with another Jew. 
When we had finished, we washed, one of our at-' 
tendants bringing an ewer, a basin and a towel, and 
pouring water on our hands. We then received 
each a cup ct cofiee, and our host, who was much 
fatigued with the sultry walk to the beach, and afters 



16 TEAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



wards to the goivemor, to infonn him of our arrivBl, 
retired with the whole family to sleep, as is the uni- 
versal practice toward noon, when the heat becomes 
exceedingly intense. 

In the evening we went with the consul to view 
the town. We found the houses numerous, mostly 
of wood, and mean, and the streets very narrow. 
We saw the manufactory of earthen ware, which is 
considerable ; and we supposed the fashion had never 
altered, the jars and vessels^ in general, retaining 
the old shapes, and being formed, it seems, by an- 
cient models. The situation of the place is low, 
and subject to epidemical disorders. Besides these, 
the plague, which commonly visits the inhabitants 
every year, is remarkably destructive, and seldom 
fails to make a long stay. The cemeteries are swelled 
to a great extent round the town, and filled with 
broken columns, pieces of granite, and marble £rag- 
Qients, fixed as grave-stones; some carved with 
Turkish characters in rdievo, gilded and painted. 
In the Armenian burying-ground we discovered a 
long Greek inscription, on a slab of white marble, 
but not legible. On a rocky eminence, on the side 
next the Propontis, is a range of windmills. 

The town and castle has on the south a river, 
which descends from M. Ida with prodigious violence 
after snow or rain upon the summits. Its source, 
as we were told, is seven hours up in the country. 
A thick wall has been erected, and plane-trees dis- 
posed, to keep off the torrent when it overflows, and 
to protect the buildings from its assaults. At the 
mouth, like the Scamander, it had then a bar of 
sand. The bed was wide, stony, and intersected 
with green thickets ; but had water in the cavities. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 17 

at which many women, with their faces mufHed, 
were busy washing linen, and spreading it on the 
ground to dry. 

This river enables us to ascertain the site of the 
inner castles, a point of some consequence in the to- 
pography of the Hellespont. Its ancient name, as 
appears from Strabo, was Rhodius, and it entered 
the sea between Dardanus and Abydos. The rem- 
nants of marble, which we saw in the burying- 
grounds about the town, have been removed thither, 
chiefly from the ruins of these cities, particularly of 
the latter, which was the mpst considerable. The 
consul shewed us a head of an image of the Virgin 
Mary, which was found in the rubbish of a church 
there. On the European side, opposite to the Rho- 
dius, was Cynossema, Hie Barrow of Hecuba^ 
which is still very conspicuous, and within or close 
by the castle. 

We returned, when we had finished our survey, 
to our lodgings, where we supped cross-legged, about 
sunset. Soon after, when it was dark, three cover- 
lets, richly embroidered, were taken from a press in 
the room which we occupied, and delivered one to 
each of us ; the carpet or sofa and a cushion serv- 
ing, with this addition, instead of a bed. A lamp 
was left burning on a shelf, and the consul retired 
to his family, which lay, in the same manner, in an 
adjoining apartment. We pulled off our coats and 
shoes, and expected to be much refreshed by sleep- 
ing otl shore. We had not been apprised of a nightly 
plague, that of bugs, which haunts the place, or per- 
haps rather the houses of the Jews. Two of us 
could not obtain rest for a moment, but waited the 
approach of dawn with a degree of impatience 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. C 



18 tHATELS IN ASIA MINOB. 



equ^Ued only by our bodily sufferings, which cannot 
be described. 



CHAP. V. 

WBPASi DOWN THE HBLLE8 PONT —LAND IN THE CHERRU- 
NESB OF THBACE — THE TOWN ANCIENTLY ELEU8— CIVI- 
LITY OF THE OOVERNO& — THE BARROW, &C. OF PROTE- 
SILAUS. 

W^E had agreed in the evening to visit some 
neighbouring places on the continent, with the prin- 
cipal islands near the mouth of the Hellespont. 
Early in the morning the consul asked for money to 
purchase provisions, which, with other necessaries, 
were put into a scheick or wherry. He embarked 
with us, between the hours of eight and nine by our 
watches. We had six Turks, who rowed ; a jani* 
zary, and a Jew servant. The two latter, with the 
consul, sate cross-legged before us on a small car- 
pet ; as the rais or master of the boat did behind, 
steering with the handle of the helm over his shoul- 
der. 

We soon crossed the Hellespont, and coasting by 
the European shore, saw several solitary kingfishers, 
with young partridges, among vast single rocks. 
The winter torrents had worn deep gullies ; but the 
courses were dry, except a stream, which we were 
informed turns a mill. A narrow vaUey or two was 
green with the cotton plant and with vines, or sowed 
with grain. 

After passing the mouth of a port or bay called 
anciently Coelos, we landed, about eleven, on tJbe 
cherronese or peninsula of Thrace, near the first 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 19 

European castle, within the entrance of the Helles- 
pont, and ascended to the miserable cottage of a poor 
Jew in the town. Hei^e a mat was spread on the 
mud floor of a room by the seaside, and the eat- 
ables we had provided were placed on it. The 
noontide heat at this place was excessiye. The 
consul retired, as usual, to sleep; while we also 
rested, or were amused with the prospect from the 
window. Beneath us was the shining canal, with 
cape Mastusia on the right hand ; and opposite, the 
Asiatic town and castle, with the noble plain divided 
by the Scamander ; and the barrows mentioned be- 
ifore, two standing by each other not far from the 
shore, within Sigeum, and one more remote. 

The ancient name of this town, which is exceed- 
ingly mean and wretched, was Eleus. The streets 
or lanes are narrow and intricate. It is on the 
north side of the castle, and ranges along the brink 
of a predittce. 

When the heat was abated a little, we were in- 
formed that the governor gave us permission to re- 
fresh in his garden. We dismissed his messenger 
with a bac-shish, a reward or present^ of three pi- 
a^rs^ and an excuse, that we were just going 
away ; but this was not accepted ; and we paid an* 
other piaster for seeing a very small spot of ground, 
waUed in, and containing nothing, except two vines, 
a fig and a pomegranate tree, and a well of excellent 
water. 

The Turks, after we were landed, had rowed the 
wherry round Mastusia, and waited for us without 

^ A piaster is about half a orown English, and is equal in value 
to thirty peraus. These are a small silver coin, about the size of 
a0 English penny. 

c2 



20 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

the point. In our way to them, by the castle-walU 
we saw a lai^ Corinthian capital; and an altar 
with festoons, made hollow, and used as a mortar for 
bruising com. Near the other end of the town is a 
bare barrow. By this was formerly the sacred por- 
tion of Protesilaus and his temple, to which per- 
haps the marble fragments have belonged. He was 
one of the leaders in the Trojan expedition, and was 
killed by Hector. Afterwards he was worshipped 
as a hero, and reputed the patron or tutelar deity of 
Ele^. 



CHAP. VI. 

SAIL TO TENBDOS— SITUATION AND MODERN HISTOBY OF 

THE ISLAND THE POET AND TOWN— THE ANTiaUITIES 

— GREEK RECREATIONS'—THE NIGHT — THE MORNING 

THE CONSUL RETURNS. 

On our arrival at the wherry, which was behind 
the castle, we found our Turks sitting on the ground, 
where they had dined^ chiefly on ripe fruits, with 
ordinary bread. We had there a wide and deep 
gulf, a portion of the Mgsean sea, anciently called 
Melas, on our right hand ; with Imbros, toward the 
entrance, twenty-five miles from Mastusia, and twen- 
ty-two from Lemnos, which lay before us ; and be- 
yond these, other islands, and the continent of Eu- 
rope, in view. We had intended to visit Lemnos, 
and the principal places in that quarter; but the 
wind proving contrary, we now steered for Tene- 
dos, and, after rowing some time with a rough sea, 
hoisted sail. We passed by some islets, and about 
three in the afternoon reached the town. On open- 
ing the harbour, we discovered in it, besides small- 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 21 

crafty three Turkish galleys waiting to convey the 
Venetian bailow or resident, who was expected 
dmiy, to Constantinople ; the ships of that republic 
being by treaty excluded from navigating the Hel- 
lespont. 

The island Tenedos is chiefly rock, but fertile. 
It was anciently reckoned about eighty stadia^ or 
ten miles in circumference, and from Sigeum twelve 
miles and a half. Its position, thus near the mouth 
of the Hellespont, has given it importance in all 
ages ; vessels bound toward Constantinople finding 
shelter in its port, or safe anchorage in the road, 
during the etesian or contrary winds, and in foul 
weather. The emperor Justinian erected a maga- 
zine to receive the cargoes of the com ships from 
Alexandria, when detained there. This was a lofty 
building, two hundred and eighty feet long, and 
ninety broad. The voyage from Egypt was ren- 
dered less precarious, and the grain preserved untU 
it could be transported to the capital. Afterwards, 
during the troubles of the Greek empire, Tenedos 
experienced a variety of fortune. The pirates, which 
infested these seas, made it for ihany years their 
place of rendezvous ; and Othman seized it in 1 302, 
procured vessels, and from thence subdued the other 
islands of the Archipelago. 

The port of Tenedos has been enclosed in a mole, 

of which no part now appears above water, but loose 

stones are piled on the foundations to break the 

waves. The basin is encompassed by la ridge of the 

mountain. On the south side is a row of windmills 

and a small fort ; and on the opposite a castle by 

the shore. This was taken in the year 1656 by the 

Venetians in four day^, but soon after abandoned as 

c8 



22 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

not tenable. The houses, which are numerous, 
stand at the foot, or on the slope, of an acclivity ; 
with a flat between them and the sea, formed by 
weeds and slime from the water, and by soil washed 
down from above. They reckon six hundred Turk- 
ish families and three hundred Greek. Tlie church 
belonging to the latter is decent. 

We found here but few remains of antiquity wor- 
thy notice. We perceived on our landing a large 
and entire sarcophagus, or stone coffin, serving as a 
fountain, the top-stone or lid being perforated to ad- 
mit a current of water, which supplies the vent be- 
low ; and on one side is an inscription^. A Greek 
inquired whether the characters were not G^othic. 
Near this was part of a fluted column converted 
into a mortar for bruising com ; and in a shop was 
a remnant of tessellated pavement then recently dis- 
covered. In the streets, the walls^ and burying- 
grounds, were pieces of marble, and fragments of 
pillars, with a few inscriptions^. 

In the evening, this being Sunday and a festival, 
we were much amused with seeing the Greeks, who 
were singing arid dancing in several companies to 
music, near the town, while their women were sit- 
ting in groups on the roofs of the houses, which are 
flat, as spectators, at the same time enjoying the 
soft air and serene sky. 

We were lodged, much to our satisfaction, in a 
large room, with a raised floor matted, on which we 
slept in our clothes, in company with two Jews and 
Several Greeks ; a cool breeze entering all night at 
the latticed windows, and sweetening our repose. 

*= Inscriptiones Antiquae, pp. 3, 4. * Ibid. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 8d 

In these coMntries, on account of the heat» it is 
usual to rise with the dawn. About daybreak we 
received from the French consul, a Greek with a 
respectable beard, a present of grapes, the clusters 
large and rich, with other fruits, all fresh gathered. 
We had, besides, bread and coffee for breakfast, and 
good wines, particularly one sort, of an exquisite fla- 
vour, called Muscadel. The island is deservedly 
famous for the species of vine which produces this 
delicious liquor. 

We had been told, that an ancient building re- 
mained on the south side^ of the island, not much 
out of our way to the ruins of a city called Eski- 
Stamboul, on the continent of Asia. Our Turks 
were waiting at the boat, and we just ready to join 
them, when we were informed that a wherry was 
arriyed &om the Asiatic Dardanell, which she had 
lately left, and that the presence of the consul was 
required on some very urgent business at Constan- 
tinople. His brother, who had set sail in the morn- 
ing early to overtake him, remained with us in his 
stead, and soon won our regard by his attention and 
civility. 



CHAP. VIJ. 

LEAVB TBNEDOS — AN ANTIQUITY ON THE ISLAND — FOUN- 
TAINS — ^THEIR CONSTRUCTION— THEIR USB — FACE OF THE 
ISLAND SET SAIL FOR THE CONTINENT. 

After some delay we got on board our wherry, 
and leaving the port of Tenedos, coasted, with the 
island on our right hand \ We soon passed a creek, 

B north side. R. ^ left hand. R. 

c 4 



24 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

which is frequented by small-craft during the vin- 
tage, and has near it a solitary church, with a foun- 
tain or spring of excellent water, and at some dis- 
tance a quarry of stone or marble. The guUies and 
the slopes of the hills were green with vines. We 
doubled a craggy point, and saw some cliffs inhabited 
by wild pigeons; with some partridges ; a few cattle ; 
and a church, by which, we were told, is a water 
noted for its purgative qualities. We landed about 
ten on a fair beach, having gone almost half round 
the island. 

We were now near the building which we had 
purposed to examine. It proved a small arched 
room, the masonry ancient, underneath a mean ruin- 
ed church. You descend to it by a few steps, with 
a light. The floor was covered with water. Near 
it was a figtree or two, and a fountain, with an in- 
scription, in modem Greek characters, fixed in the 
wall. 

The reader, as we proceed, will find frequent men- 
tion of fountains. Their number is owing to the 
nature of the country and of the climate. The soil, 
parched and thirsty, demands moisture to aid vege- 
tation. The verdure, shade, and coolness, its agree- 
able attendants, are rendered highly grateful to the 
people by a cloudless sun and inflamed atmosphere. 
Hence they occur not only in the towns and villages, 
but in the fields and gardens, and by the sides of the 
roads and of the beaten tracks on the mountains. 
Many of them are the useful donations of humane 
persons while living; or have been bequeathed as 
legacies on their decease. The Turks esteem the 
erecting of them as meritorious, and seldom go away, 
after performing their ablutions or drinking, with- 



TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. 25 

out gratefoUy blessing the name and memory of the 
founder. 

The method of obtaining the necessary supplies 
of water used by the ancients still prevails. It is by 
conveying the fluid from the springs or sources, 
which are sometimes very remote, in earthen pipes 
or paved channels, carried over the gaps and breaks 
in the way on arches. When arrived at the des- 
tined spot, it is received by a cistern with a vent ; 
and the waste current passes below from another 
cistern, often an ancient sarcophagus or coffin. It is 
cmnmon to find a cup of tin or iron hanging near 
by a chain ; or a wooden scoop with a handle, placed 
in a niche in the wall. The front is of stone or 
niarble; and in some, painted and decorated with 
gilding, and with an inscription in Turkish charac- 
ters in relievo. 

The women resort to the fountains by their houses, 
each with a large two-handled earthen jar on their 
back, or thrown over the shoulder, for water. They 
assemble at one without the village or town, if no 
river be near^ to wash their linen, which is after- 
wards spread on the ground or bushes to dry. To 
these also the Turks and Greeks frequently repair 
for refreshment ; especially the latter on their festi- 
vals, when whole families are seen sitting on the 
grass, and enjoying their early or evening repast, 
beneath the trees, by the side of a riU. And at 
those near the roads, the traveller, sunburnt and 
thirsty, after a scorching ride, finds cool water, the 
shelter of a plane or of some spreading tree, and a 
green plat to repose or dine on ; affording him a de- 
gree of pleasure not adequately conceived, unless by 
those who have experienced it. 



26 TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

We agreed to let the heat of noon be passed be- 
fore we proceeded on our voyage. A carpet was 
spread for us under a shady holme, and a fire kindled 
at some distance. We now received each a lighted 
pipe and a dish of coffee. A kettle was then filled 
with water, and some fowls, which we had provided, 
made ready to be boiled. The French consul, who 
had joined us, undertook to fiimish grapes. His 
vineyard was a considerable way off toward the town, 
but two of us, attended by a couple of armed Turks, 
chose to accompany him. We crossed a kind of 
heath spread with wild thyme, sage, and low bushes 
of mastic, to a spot shaded with cypresses, where 
was a church, as miserable as that we had left, con- 
sisting only of loose stones piled for walls, without a 
roof. It had a well close by. We saw a few trees, 
some common stubble, and some fields of Turkey 
wheat, and of sesamus. The soil was parched ; but 
in the centre of the island we found a laige tract 
sheltered by naked barren hills, and green with olive 
trees and with vines. The grapes hung in nume- 
rous clusters, rich and tempting l and we ate freely, 
being assured the fruit was innocent and even whole- 
some, especially if plucked before the air within it 
was rarified by the sun. In about a fortnight the 
vintage was to commence, when a guard of ten 
Turks is placed to secure the property from pilferers 
or pirates. Among the hills, one towers far above 
the rest, and has on its summit a church or chapel 
dedicated to St. Elias. The form is conical, and it 
is seen over the main land of Asia coming down the 
Hellespont. 

On our return to the tree we found the company 
there had been uneasy at our absence, fearing we 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 1^17 

had strayed or were detained by some untoward ac- 
cident. We dined and slept in the shade ; and soon 
after, the French consul took leave of us. About 
two in the afternoon we sailed with a brisk gale, 
steering for Eski-Stamboul, anciently called Troas 
and Alexandria Troas. The. distance of this dty 
from Tenedos was reckoned forty stadia or five 
miles. Some of its ruins are in view, standing on an 
eminence; the uneven summits of mount Ida co* 
vered with trees rising beautifully behind. 



CHAP. VIII. 

FLIGHT OF CRANBS — VIEW OF ALEXANDRIA TROAS RE- 
TURN TO OUR BOAT MOUNT ATHOS MANNER OF PASSING 

THE NIGHT — ^WAY BACK TO THE RUINS. 

On the way from Tenedos we were amused by 
vast caravans or companies of cranes, passing high 
in the air from Thrace, to winter, as we supposed, 
in Egypt. We admired the number and variety 
of the squadrons, their extent, orderly array, and 
apparently good discipline. About a quarter after 
three we landed near the ancient port of Troas. 

We immediately began a cursory survey of this 
deserted place ; ascending to the principal ruin, 
which is at some distance from the shore. The 
whole site was overspread with stones and rubbish 
intermingled with stubble, plantations of cotton and 
of Turkey wheat, plats of long dry grass, thickets 
and trees, chiefly the species of low oak, which pro- 
duces valanea, or the large acorns ^ used in tanning. 

i The husks of which are exported for tanning hides. R. 



28 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

A solemn silence prevailed, and we saw naUuiig 
alive but a fox and some partridges. In the ineaii 
time, the Turks, who were left in the wherry, re- 
moved about three miles lower down, towards the 
promontory Lectos, where the beach afforded a sta- 
tion less exposed to the wind, and more secure. 

The evening coming on, we were advised to retire 
to our boat. By the way we saw a drove of camels 
feeding. We came to a shed, formed with boughs 
round a tree, to shelter the flocks and herds firom 
the sun at noon ; and under it was a peasant, who 
had an ass laden, besides other articles, with a goat- 
skin containing sour curds, on which, and some 
brown bread, our Turks made their evening meal. 
A goatskin, with the hair on, served likewise for a 
bucket. It was distended by a piece of wood, to 
which a rope was fastened. He drew for us water 
from a well not far off, and promised to bring us 
milk and a kid the next day. We found our cook, a 
Jew. busy bjr the seaside preparing supper ; his tin 
kettle boiling over a fire in the open air. 

The beauty of the evening in this country sur- 
passes all description. The sky now glowed with 
the rich tints of the setting sun, which, skirting the 
western horizon, raised, as it were, up to our view 
the distant summits of the European mountains. 
We saw the cone of Athos distinctiy, bearing firom 
us 55™. west of north. This top is so lofty, that 
the sun rising is beheld on it three hours soonff 
than by the inhabitants of the seacoast^. The sha- 
dow of the mountain at the solstice reached into the 
agora or market-place of Myrina, a town in Lem* 

^ Strabo, p. 33 1 . 



TRAVfiLS IN ASIA MINOR. 29 

nos, which island is distant eighty-seven miles east- 
ward ^ The shore is strewed with pumice-stones, 
once perhaps floating from ^tna or Vesuvius, unless 
ejected by some nearer volcano™. Indeed, the pikes 
both of Athos and of Tenedos suggest the idea, 
that their mountains have burned; and it is pos- 
sible, that thescvwith many of the islands in this 
sea, may have been the produce of eruptions, which 
happened at a period too early to be recorded in 
history. 

We had here no choice, but were forced to pass 
the night on the beach, which was sandy. The 
Turks constructed a half-tent for us near our boat 
with the oars and sail. We now discovered that we 
had neglected to procure wine and candles at Tene- 
dos. We did not, however, remain in the dark. 
An extemporary lamp supplied one omission. It 
was a cotton-wick swimming in oil, on a bit of cork 
in a drinking-glass, suspended by a string. By thi^ 
light, the Turks, sitting before us on the ground, 
cross-legged, endeavoured to amuse us, by teach- 
ing us the numbers in their language^ or by learn- 
ing them in English. Some desired us to distinguish 
each by his name, Mahmet^ Selimy Mustapha^ and 
the like. They were liberal of their tobacco, filling 
their pipes from their bags, lighting and present- 
ing them to us, as often as they saw us unprovided. 
Our janizary, who was called Baructer Aga, played 
on a Turkish instrument like a guitar. Some ac- 
companied him with their voices, singing loud. Their 
favourite baDad contained the praises of Stamboul 

> Pliny; Nat. Hist. lib. i v. 23. »" A mistake. R. 



90 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 

or Constantinople. Two, and sometimes thi«e or 
four, danced together, .keeping time to a tively tune, 
until they were almost breathless. These extraor- 
dinary exertions were followed with a demand of 
backshish, a reward or present; which term, frmn 
its frequent use, was already become very familiar 
to us. We were fatigued by our rough hot walk 
among the ruins, and growing weary of our savages, 
gladly lay down to rest under the half-tent. The 
Turks slept by us, upon the ground, with their arms 
ready in case of an alarm, except two who had 
charge of the boat. The janizary, who watched, 
sate smoking cross-legged by the fire. Xhe stars 
shone in a clear blue sky, shedding a calm serme 
light : the jackals howled in vast packs, approaching 
near us, or on mount Ida ; and the waves beat gently 
on (he shore in regular succession. 

We rose with the dawn, ready dressed, h(^ing to 
get to the ruins in the cool of the morning. It was 
necessary to take water with us, as none could be 
procured there. A weU, by which the peasant had 
agreed to leave his bucket for our use, with his ass» 
was known only to the janizary, and we resolved to 
accompany him to the place, rather than wait for 
his return. Some of the Turks carried our um- 
brella, and earthen jar, and instruments for measur- 
ing or drawing. After going about half a mile by 
the sea toward Lectos, we turned to the left, and 
crossing the plain, and two watercourses, one of 
which was not quite dry, came to a root of mount 
Ida, and a vineyard. We entered, and saw nobody, 
but gathered as many grapes as we chose ; and, 
loading the ass with our lu^age, repassed the plain 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 31 

to the great rain at Troas, distant about an hour. 
Some peasants were employed in a field of Turkey 
wheat on the way, and their dogs worried us ex- 
ceedingly. 



CHAP. IX. 

FOI.ICY OF ALEXANDER THB 6RBAT — ^ALEXANDRIA TROAS — 

ITS SITUATION PORTS -—APPEARANCE REMAINS — THE 

PRINCIPAL RUIN INSCRIPTIONS — THE AQUEDUCT ^AC- 

COUNT OF IT— OF ATTICUS HERODES NO CHURCHES VI- 
SIBLE THE MARBLES REMOVED. 

A;L£XAND£R the Great, instead of marking his 
progress by devastations, wisely provided more last- 
ing and honourable monuments of his passage through 
the countries which he subdued ; causing cities and 
temples to be erected^ and forming plans for their 
improvement and future prosperity. As his stay 
was commonly short, the execution of his noble de- 
signs was committed to the governors, whom he ap- 
pointed ; men of grand ideas, fitted to serve so mag- 
nificent a master. . Alexandria Troas was one of 
eighteen cities which bore his name. 

This city was begun by Antigonus, and from him 
first called Antigonia ; but Lysimachus, to whom, as 
a successor of Alexander, it devolved, changed the 
appellation in honour of the deceased king. In the 
war with Antiochus it was eminent for its fidelity to 
the Romans, who conferred on it the same privileges 
as the cities of Italy enjoyed. Under Augustus, it 
received a Roman colony, and increased. It was 
then the only considerable place between Sig^um 



32 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



and Lectos, and was inferior to no city oi its name, 
but Alexandria in Egypt^ 

Alexandria Troas was seated on a hill, slojHng 
toward the sea, and divided from M. Ida by a deep 
valley. On each side is an extensive plain, with 
water-courses. The founders, it is probable, were 
aware, that, like Tenedos, it would derive many ad- 
vantages from its situation on the coast, near the 
mouth of the Hellespont. 

The port of Troas, by which we landed, has a hiU 
rising round it in a semicircle, and covered with 
rubbish. Many small granite pillars are standing, 
half buried, and much corroded by the spray. It is 
likely the vessels were fastened to them by ropes. 
A sand-bank, at the entrance, had cut off the com- 
munication with the sea, and the smaller basin was 
dry. The larger had water, but apparently shallow. 
Its margin was incrusted with spontaneous salt. 
Both were artificial, and intended for smalL-craft 
and galleys ; ships of burden anchoring in the road 
without the mole. 

The city wall is standing, except toward the vine- 
yard, but with gaps, and the battlements ruined. It 
was thick and solid, had square towers at regular dis- 
tances, and was several miles ^ in circumference. Be- 
sides houses, it has enclosed many magnificent struc- 
tures ; but now appears as the boundary of a forest 
or neglected park. A map belonging to Mr. Wood, 
and made, as we supposed, by a Frenchman, in 1726, 
served us as a guide. The author, it is imagined, 
believed, as other travellers had done, that this was 

" Strabo, p. 593. ° About nine miles. R. 



TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. S3 

the site of Troy, or of' a more recent city named 
Ilium, instead of Alexandria Troas. 

Confusion cannot easily be de^mbed. Aboi^ the 
shore is a hollow, overgrown with trees, near which 
Pococke saw remains of a stadium or place for races, 
sunk in the ground ; and higher up is the vaulted 
substruction or basement of a large temple p. We 
were told this had been lately a lurking-place of 
banditti ; who often lay concealed here, their hors^ 
tied in rows to wooden pegs, of which many then 
remained in the wall. It now swarmed with bats, 
much bigger in size than the English, which, on our 
entering, flitted about innumerable; and settUng, 
when tired, blackened the roof. Near it is a souter- 
rain; and, at some distance, vestiges of a theatre 
and of an odeum, or music theatre. These edifices 
were toward the centre of the dty. The semicircu- 
lar sweep, on which their seats ranged, is formed in 
the hill, with the ends vaulted. Among the rubbish, 
which is of great extent, are a few scraps of marble 
and of sculpture, with many small granite pillars. 

The principal ruin, which is that seen afar off 
by mariners, commands a view of the islands Te* 
nedos ^nd Lemnos ; and, on one side, of the plain 
to the Hellespont, and of the mountains in Europe. 
Before it is a gentle descent, woody, with inequali- 
ties, to the sea distant by computation about three 
miles. It was a very ample building, and, as we 
supposed, once the gymnasium, where the youth 
were instructed in learning and in the exercises. 
It consists of three open massive arches, towering 

P More likely of some other fabric^ it bearing no resemblance 
to the basement of a temple. R. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. D 



34 TBATBL8 IN ASIA MINOB. 

aHiid walb^aiid a vaat heap of huge matetiab. They 
are constructed with a species of stone, which ia fttt 
of petrified codde^diells, and of cavities, like honey- 
comb The latter, it is likely, have occasioned the 
name used, as Pococke relates, by the peasants, Ba- 
hike Seria, the palace of honey^ which he thinks 
nay be derived from Baal. The piers have capitah 
and mouldings of white marfat^ and the whole fribric 
^ipears to have been incrusted. Some remnants of 
the earthem spouts or pipes are visible. A view ot 
ity which belonged to Mr. Wood, has been lately 
published^i. On one side is a ruin of brick; and 
behind, without the city wall, are sepulchres. One 
of these is of the masonry called reticulaiedy or 

netted. 

A city distinguished and flourishing by Roman 
favour, would not be tardy in paying the tribute of 
adulation to its benefactors. The peasant sdiewed 
me a marble pedestal inscribed in Latin, the charac- 
ters large, plain, and well-*formed. We found, near 
this,, two other pedestals, one above half buried in 
rubbish ; but the Turks cleared the front with their 
sabres to the eighth Une. Ail three were alike, and 
had the same inscription, except some slight varia- 
tions* They had been erected by diflferent cities in 
honour of Caius Antonius Rufiis, flamen or high 
priest of the god Julius and of the god Augustus. 
A maimed, trunk, which we saw, was perhaps one 
of the stittues ; and it Js probable the basement^ be- 
fore noted, belonged to the temple dedicated to the 
deities whom he served, or to the goddess Rome. 

^ See Essay on Homer " Ancient Ruins near Troy," &c. 
' See the last page. R. 



TUM/VmLa IN ASIA MINOR* S5 

Tbeae ttiartdes aw about midway between the ptin* 
cqial ruin and the beach. A Venetian officer after- 
wards ii^rmed ns, that he had removed one of them 
on board his ship, then in the gulf of Smyrna, hy 
O0der of the captain, while they lay at anchor near 
Tenedos^ waiting for the bailow, whose time of re- 
sidence Bit Constantinc^le was expired. We made 
diligent search for inscriptions, but discovered, be- 
sides the abov^nentioned, only a small' fri^ment Of 
a pedestal, on which the name of Hadrian occurs. 

An aqueduct begins behind the city, not far f^m 
lte» sepidchres, and is seen descending and crossing 
1^ country on the side next the Hellespont, ex- 
teoding several miles. The piers, which we mea- 
suned, are five feet nine indies wide ; three feet and 
two inches iMck : die void between them, twelve 
feet and four inches. The ai^ches are all broken. 

The history of this noble and once usefiil struc- 
tme affords an illustrious instance of imperial and 
private munificence. An Athenian, Tiberius Clau^ 
dius Atticus Herodes, presided over the free cities 
of Asia. Seding Troas destitute of commodious 
balhs^^and of water, except such as was procured 
from muddy wells or reservonrs made to receive rain, 
he wrote to the emperor Hadrian not to suffer an 
ancient and maritime dty to be destroyed by drought, 
biit to bestow on it three hundred myriads of drachms 
for water, espedally as he had given far greater sums 
even to villages. Hadrian readily complied, and ap- 
pointed him overseer of the bmlding. The expense 
exceeded seven hundred myriadsS and it was repre- 

' Five luindred myriadB amount to 161,4581. 6«. 8^. English. 

J>2 



36 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

sehted to the emperor as a grievance, that the tri- 
bute from five hundred dties had been lavished on 
one in an aqueduct. Herodes, in reply, begged him 
not to be displeased, that, having gone beyond his 
estimate, he had presented the overplus of the sum 
to his son, and he to the city. 

We shdl have occasion to mention Atticus He- 
rodes again, and his name will occur often in the 
account of our travels in Greece. His grand&therv 
Hipparchus, had been accused of tyranny, his estate 
confiscated, and his son Julius Atticus reduced to 
pov^erty. Julius discovered a treasure in one of the 
houses, which belonged to him, by the theatre at 
Athens. The quantity was so great, that his ap-^ 
prehension exceeded his joy, and he wrote to Nerva 
the emperor, desiring to know hia pleasure concern-' 
ing it. Nerva replied, " Use what you have found ;** 
and, on a fresh application, *' Abuse, if you will, what 
'^ Mercury has given you." * Julius, thus possessed 
of unexpected affluence, married a wife with a vast 
dowry. His riches were inherited by their son At- 
ticus Herodes, who was bom at Marathon, carefully 
educated under the most eminent masters, and Ims 
came so famous for learning and extemporary elo- 
quence, that perhaps no sophist ever surpassed him 
in brilliancy of reputation. He was raised to the 
first dignities of Athens, and to the consulate, with 
Torquatus, at Rome, in the year bf our Lord one 
hundred and forty-three. His generosity equalled 
his wecdth, and was as extensive as noble. Many 
temples were enriched by his magnificent offerings. 
His costly buildings adorned Asia, Greece, and Italy, 
Statues were erected to him, and the cities vied with 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 87 

each other in extolling their common benefactor. 
Several of them still retain monuments of his splen- 
dour and records of his liberality. 

The Christian religion was planted early at Troas. 
In the beginning of the fifth century, the bishop, Sil- 
vanus, was required to deliver a vessel from a de- 
mon, which was believed to detain it, as it could not 
be launched. It was intended for transporting large 
columns, and was of great size. Going down to the 
beach, he prayed, aiid taking hold of a rope, called 
on the multitude to assist, when the ship readily 
obeyed him, and hurried into the sea^ But the 
churches have been so long demolished, that the 
traces of them are uncertain. 

The desolation of this place was begun, and pro- 
bably completed, before the extinction of the Greek 
empire. Many houses and public structures at Con- 
stantinople have since been raised with its materials. 
We found only a few inconsiderable remnants of 
white marble by the principal ruin, where formerly 
was avast heap. Some pieces in the water by the 
port, and two large granite columns, were perhaps 
removed to the shore to be ready for embarkation. 
•The magazine is yet far from being exhausted. The 
name IVoas was not become obsolete in the year 
1389. 

* See Spzomen, vii. 37. Socrates, Li. 



d3 



38 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 



C/HA.P. xk. 

AN ACCIDBNT — AT THE VINEYARD— IN WANT OF PROVISIONS 
— ARE JOINED BY THE OWNER OF THE VINEYARD— IN 
FEAR OF BANDITTI. 

W^E were emj^yed at Troas cjdeflj in taking a 
plan and two views of the principal iruin. We dined 
under a spreading tree before. the arcade; and oi| 
the second day had just resumed our labour, when 
we were almost reduced to fly with precipitation. 
Oqe of the Turks, coming to us» emptied the ashes 
from his pipe, and a spark of fire fell unobsenr^ m 
the grass, which was long, parched by the sun, apd 
iilflammable like tinder. A brisk wind sopn kindled 
a blaze, which withered in ai| instant the leaver of 
the i)ushes and trees in its way, sei3ed thf brancli^ 
and roots, and devoured all before it with |^!odL 
gioys crackling and poise, and with a thick qnofcOy 
leaving the ground black) aqd the stones hot* Wp 
wpre much alanqed, as f^ g^P9ral cpnflagi^tion of 
the poun^ry seemed likely to ensue. T%e Tuf^ 
with their sabres cut down boughs, a|id we allli^r 
gun buffetting the flame^j which wei^ at length emb- 
dued ; i\ie Tmn^ j^omewhat ret^rdipg their progr^HS^ 
and enabling us to combat them more effectua||]P« 
The struggle lasted about an hour, and a consider- 
able tract of ground was laid waste. Close by was 
an area with dry matted grass, where no exertion 
could have delayed the fire, but in a moment it would 
have acquired the mastery, and must have ravaged 
uncontrolled, until repelled by the wind. The jani- 
zary signalized his prowess in this engagement. The 



TSAV£LS IN ASIA MIKOS. 89 



sun Bhime ^xcseedii^ly hot, and we were eUl covered 
leith smoke and smut* . 

In the evening we returned to the vinejrard, and 
found our cook, with two or three of the Turks, busy 
in a hovel, roasting a kid on a wooden spit or stake. 
We sate down with our Jew and janizary, and the 
flesh proved excellent. Our table was a mat on the 
^ound, beneatli a spreading vine. Our men formed 
a like group at a little distance from us. Soon after 
we fell asleep, and the starry heaven was our ca^i 
nopy. 

Early in the morning the ass was loaded agam. 
We passed the day at the ruins, with some discon- 
tent from keen appetites not duly gratified. The 
wine and provisions, which we expected from Tene- 
dos, did not arrive in time ; and the peasant, whom 
we had sent to a village named Chemali, could pro- 
cure only a couple of fowls, with some eggs, which 
he fan^e in bringing. This accident compelled our 
Jews to fast, their law not permitting them to eat 
of what we had, and which supplied us with d very 
Bcaaisy meaL 

Afler completing our survey as well as thfe pnib 
dent cautioh g£ oiur Jew and Turks wotdd peftnii, 
wid returned to the tineyard, wh^e We tadw found 
the owner, a man with a veneraUe beardi We con^ 
vened with him^ our Jew sandng us as an interttre^- 
ter. He was a stone-cUttelr^ aiid shewed us a pestle 
and mottsac as specimens of his abilities ; with a ihv^ 
tilated head of a feikiale statue ; a piece of load-stotie> 
and a paafcei of ordinary copper coins, among which 
was a sn^U medal of the emperor Trdjan^ with a 
horse feeding on the reverse, the legend cbja. AVG. 

d4 



40 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 

and on the exergue tb . a or Colamia AuguUa 

Troas. He had also the stone of a ring, of a red 

colour, inscribed 

AH 
MHTPI 

or 

of Demetrius ; and a brown one, with a lion tearing 
a bull. 

Both our Jew and janizary had expressed more 
'than once a diffidence of our safety. Our firearms 
had been all regularly inspected ; and this evening 
in particular our men betrayed plain symptoms of 
uneasiness and apprehension, which we imputed to 
some intelligence of banditti not remote from us, 
given them by our new companion. 



CHAP. XI. 

INVITBD TO CHBMALI— W£ SET OUT ON FOOT— THB HOT 
BATHS«-*ARRIVE AT CHBMALI — RBMAINS OF ANTIOUrFY 
— ONCB COLONJK. 

When we lay by the seaside, we had observed a 
fire blazing on an eminence before us, or toward 
Lectos. We were told it was a signal fisr a boat 
designed to be laden clandestinely with com, the 
exportation of which is prohibited under severe pe- 
nalties. One of the men had approadied and viewed 
us with a degree of attention which we disliked, 
the people of this district bearing a very bad cha« 
racter. At midnight the aga of Chemali, who wias 
concerned in this contraband business, had come 
prancing along the shore with two Turks, armed, 
on long-tailed horses, to inquire who we were. The 



TBAVELS IN A^IA MINOE. 41 

janlEaTy entertained him apart by the fire with a 
pipe and coffee, after which he mounted and gal- 
lo]^)ed back, leaving us an invitation to see an old 
building at his vill^e. Our host informed us, that 
by the way were hot baths worthy our notice, and 
that Chemali was distant about two hours. This 
mode of computing by time prevails universally in 
these countries, and is taken from the caravans, 
which move an uniform pace, about three or. four 
miles in an hour. 

In the morning, after breakfasting on grapes, 6gSf 
white honey in the comb^ and coffee, we set out in 
a body for the village, a Turk or two remaining 
with the boat, and our janizary, whose right eye 
was inflamed, at the vineyard. We entered a nar- 
row track worn by camels, the sand deep and loose ; 
and saw several of these animals single, lying down, 
feeding with their burdens on their backs, or mov- 
ing pensively in a long train, the leader mounted on 
a low ass ; and also a flock of goats, and a few sheep 
and oxen. We came to a river, which winds from 
the deep valley behind Troas, and has been men- 
tioned before. The stream here was now shallow, 
but abounded in small fish. It had overflowed nearer 
the sea, and formed a little marsh. 

The hot spring rises in the slope of the hill of 
Troas, about four miles from the shore ; its bearing 
80°^. south of west. The bed resembles rusty iron 
in colour, and the edges were incrusted with white 
salt. After running a few paces^ it enters a basin 
about nine feet square, within a mean hovel roofed 
with boughs. This is the bath appropriated to wo- 
men. In a gully there, Farenheifs thermometer 



48 TEAVfiLS IK JkUlA mWOB. 

roee to one huadred and diirtoen* Hie omtnt 
pMsing fiom hei»ce, unseen, is admitted bj diaimeis 
into another basin. In this the thermometer rose 
to one hundred and ten ; and in two small veins to 
one hundred and thirty, and one hundred and finrtjr- 
two. It was before in the air and shade at dgbtjr- 
two. The water has the coloor of whey ; the taste 
is braddsh, and this quality it communicates to tte 
river below. We supposed it to be stron^y impi^- 
nated by iron ore. One of the basins was choked 
up in 1610 ; and not long ago, we ware tdd, the 
spring had entirely disappeared for nine years, aftar 
an earthquake. It is reckoned very efficacious in .the 
rfaeumatbm, the leprosy, and all cutaneous disordeni. 
They first scour the skin by rolling in the bed of the 
river, which is a fine sand, and full of holes or cavi- 
ties, like graves, made for the body. By eadi indo^ 
sure is a shed, where they sleep after bathiug. In 
the court-wall of one is inserted the trunk of a large 
statue; and higher on the hill are the ruins and 
vestiges of the ancient sepulchres of Troas. 

We crossed the river again, and in fifteen minutes 
entered among the roots of mount Ida, which hi- 
therto had been on our right hand, but now faced 
us. We had an extensive view of the country, and 
from one summit the pike of Tenedos bore SO™, west 
of north. The tops of the mountain are innumer- 
able. New ones arose continually before us as w^ 
advanced ; and low oaks and bushes are interspersed 
among the vast naked rodcs. Coming near Che- 
mali we saw several windmills; Turkey wheat stand- 
ing ; and on the slopes of the hiUs, a few vineyards. 
The men were at work abroad ; but the doorways 



TRAVELS IN ASIA IdKOfi. 4S 

of the clay cottages were filled with women, their 
faces muffled, and with children looking at us. Our 
men purchased of them some melons, with eggs, 
which they fried in oil. 

The mosque, which we had taken this long walk 
to examine, instead of proving, as we had hoped, 
some ancient building or temple, contained nothing 
to reward our labour. The portico, under whid^ 
we stopped, is sui^>orted by broken columns, and in 
the walls are marble fragments. The door is ^carved 
with Greek characters so exceectingly complicated, 
that I eouljl neither copy nor decipher them. We 
supposed it had formerly been a church. In the 
court was a ^iain chair oJT marble, almost entiies 
and under the post of a shed, a pedestal, with a 
moulding cut along one side, and an inscription in 
Latin, which shews it once belonged to a statue of 
Nero, nephew of the emperor Tiberius^. Many 
scraps of Greek and Latin occur in the old burying 
grounds, which are very ext^isive. We saw jnore 
marble about this inconsiderable village than at 
Troas. 

Colons^, tke MUhy was ^ town on the continent 
opposite to Tenedos. Antigonus removed the in* 
halHtants to Troas^, but the place was not entirely 
abandoned. It seems to have recovered under the 
Romans, and has survived the new city; still, as 
may be collected fr(Hn the site and marbles, linger* 
ing on in the Turkish village Chomali. 

" Inscript. Ai^t. p. 4. 



44 TKAVEL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 

CHAP. XII. 

COAST BY TROAS ^ENEKIOI GIAURKIOI OR SIGBUM AN- 
TIQUITIES AT THE CHURCH ACCOUNT OF SIGBUM*— THE 

FAMOUS SI6EAN STONB PART OF A PILASTER ^THB DISPO- 
SITION OF THE LINES ON IT— OF THE GREEK ALPHABET 

AGE OF THE FIRST INSCRIPTION— AGE OF THE SECOND- 
IT LIES NEGLECTED. 

From Chemali we returned to the vineyard^ pur- 
posing to embark as soon as possible ; the danger 
from banditti increasing with our stay in these parts, 
which had already produced a general uneasiness : 
but finding the wind strong and contrary, we went 
back to the hot baths with our thermometer. In 
the mean time, the aga of Chemali sent word, that 
he designed visiting us in the evening, and desired 
our acceptance of a kid. His men, however, had 
carried off the intended present, on hearing from 
the janizary that we were going away. We were 
glad to avoid seeing him, as we expected he would 
prove but a troublesome guest. We hastened to get 
on board, coasted by Troas in the .dusk, and, after 
rowing about five miles, landed, and slept on the 
beach. The solemn ni^t was rendered yet more 
flEwfril by the melancholy bowlings of numerous jack- 
als, in packs, hunting, as we supposed, their prey. 

We embarked again three hours before the break 
of day, and rowed by a bold rocky shore until near 
seven. We then landed at Enekioi, or New Tawn^ 
now a Greek village, so miserable, as scarcely to fur- 
nish grapes^ wine, eggs, and oil to fry them, sufficient 
for our breakfast. It stands very high, and has been 
more considerable. By the church door is a Latin 
sepulchral inscription'; and Pliny mentions a town 

' Inscript. Ant. p. 4. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR: 45 

in the Troad, called Nea» or New Town, Which per- 
haps was on this spot. There was an image of Mi* 
nerva^ on which no rain ever fell ; and it was said 
that sacrifices left there did not putrefy. 

We left Enekioi, and landed again about mid-day 
on the beach without the Hellespont, not far from 
the Sigean promontory, and ascended by a steep 
track to Giaurkioi, a Greek village, once the city 
Sigeum, high above the sea, and now resembling 
Enekioi in wretchedness as well as in situation. We 
were here accommodated with a small apartment in 
one of the cottages ; but it required caution to avoidi 
falling through the floor* The family to which it 
belonged was as poor as oppressed. The thin-voiced 
women scolding and howling in the 'court, we in* 
quired the reason, and were told they had paid a 
piaster for the privilege of keeping a hog ; that the 
Turk, who collected this money for the aga, de- 
manded ten pereaus as his fee ; that they were uxh 
able or unwilling to gratify him, and he was carry- 
ing the son to prison. 

The high hill of Giaurkioi was the acropolis or 
citadel of Sigeum ; and a mean church on the brow, 
toward mount Ida, occupies the site of the Athe* 
neum^ or temple of Minerva, of which the scattered 
marbles by it are remains. The famous Sigean in* 
scriptioki lies on the right hand as you enter it ; and 
on the left is part of a pedestal of fine white marble; 
each serving as a seat. The latter is carved in basso 
relievoy. The Greeks were accustomed to con^n 
their infants to the tutelar care of some deity ; the 
midwife, dressed in white, with her feet bare, carry- 

y It is about five feet nine inches long. See Lady Mary W. 
Montague, Letter XLIV ; and a plate in the Ionian AntiquUies. 



46 TRAVKLS IN ASIA MINOR. 

ifig the child to be presented on the fifth day after its 
fairth. The Romans had the same superstition ; and 
Caligula is on record as having placed his daughter 
Livia Drusilla in the lap of Minenra'*. That usage 
is the sobject of the sculpture. The goddess is sit- 
ting, as described bj' Homer/in her temjde in Troy. 
A Uttle chest, borne by one of the figures, may be 
supposed to conimn incense, or the offerings winch 
accompanied this ceremony. A marUe, once repo- 
sited in the predncts of the temple, and now pre- 
served in the library of Trinity allege in Cambriii^, 
vms tomkd widiin the same building. It contains a 
decree, made by the Sigeai», two hundred and se- 
venty-eight years before the Christian era, in honour 
of king Antiochus ; and enacts, among other articles, 
<lie erecting in the temple a golden statue of him on 
horseback, on a pedestal of white marble ; with an 
inscription commemorating his religious regard for 
the temple, and stfling him the saviour of the people. 
This, in the year 171^, was purchased of the papas, 
or Greek priest, by Edward Wortley Montague, esq* 
dien going ambassador to Constantinople^ The 
place: in the wall fi^m which it was removed is stiU 
visible. 

The city Sigeum stood on a slope, now bare, op- 
posite to the part where we ascended. It was found- 
ed by the Mityleneans of Lesbos. The Athenians 
seized it under Phryno : Pittacus sailed aft;er him, 
and was defeated in a battle. It was then the poet 
Aksefus fled, throwing away his shield, which the 
Athenians suspeiided in the temple. Paiander of 
CiHinth was chosen umpire. The Mityleneans aft^er- 

* Suetonius, c. 35, » Chfehull, Antiq. Asiat. p. 49. 



TKAVSLS IN ASIA MINOR. 4f7 

wards recovered ^geum, but it was taken from 
tkem by Pisistmtus, who made his son Hegeastra- 
tus tyrant there^ The Ilieans then got possession of 
it, and by them it was subverted, perhaps about the 
time of Antiochus, as the name of the Sigean people 
has been purposely erased in the decree above men- 
tioned. 

The temple at Sigeum was of remote antiquity, 
if not coeval with the dtj, which is said to have 
been built firom the ruins of Troy. The Ilieans pro* 
bably spared that edifice from a reverence for the 
deity, or no fragments would have now remained. , 
The celebrated inscription is on part of a pilaster, 
eight feet seven inches long, one foot and somethii^ 
more than six inches wide, and above ten inches 
thick. It is broken at the bottom. In the top is a 
hole three inches and a half long, three wide, and 
above two deep. This served to unite it firmly with 
the upper jKirtion, or the capital, by receiving a bar 
of wood or metal ; a customary mode of construc- 
tion, which rendered the fabric as solid as the mate- 
rials were durable. The stone was given to the 
temple, as appears from the inscription on it, by Pha- 
nddicus of Proconnesus^ a city and island not &r 
from Sigeum, famous for its quarries of mariile. Such 
doqatioBS were common, and we shall have occasion 
to mention several. 

The lines in both inscriptions range from; the left 
to the right, and from the rigiit to the left, alter- 
nately. This mode of disposition was called bouS" 
trophedon, the lines turning on Uie marble as okcU' 
do in ploughing. It was used before Periander; 
and by Solon, the Athenian lawgiver, his contem- 
porary. 



48 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIN(W« 

The Greek alphabet, as imported by Cadmus^from 
Ph€emcia^ consisted of sixteen letters. Palamedes, 
the rival of Ulysses, who was put to death in the 
Greek camp before Troy, added four. Simonides 
of Ceos increased the number to twenty-four. This 
person was a favourite of Hipparchus, brother of 
Hegesistratus, the tyrant of Sigeum, and lived with 
him at Athens. 

We may infer from the first inscription on the 
pilaster, that Phanodicus and the temple, to which 
he contributed, existed before the improvement made 
by Simonides ; for it exhibits only Cadmean and Pa- 
lamedean characters: and also that the structure 
was raised under the Mityleneans ; fcnr it is in their 
dialect, or the Mohan. 

The second inscription has the letters of Simo- 
nides, and was engraved under the Athenians, as 
may be collected from its Atticisms ; and, it is like- 
ly, about the time of H^esistratus ; the method of 
arranging the lines not being changed, nor the me- 
mory of the person whom it records, if he were not 
then living, become obsolete. 

We copied these inscriptions very carefiiUyS and 
not without deep regret that a stone so singularly 
curious, which has preserved to us a specimen of 
writing antiquated above two thousand years ago, 
should be suffered to lie so neglected and exposed. 
Above half a century has elapsed since it was first 
discovered, and it still remains in the open air, a 
seat for the Greeks, destitute of a patron to rescue 
it from barbarism, and obtain its removal into the 

^ See Chishuirs learned commentary, 
c Inscript. Ant. pi. I. 



TRAVELS IN AftIA MINOR. 49 

safer custody of some private museum, or, which is 
rather to be desired, some puUic repository^. 



CHAP. XIII. 

AT OIAURKIOI — ^PROSPECT OF THE PLAIN FARTHER AC- 
COUNT OF IT— NEWS' OF THE CONSUL— -OUR PLAN DISCON* 
GSRTED— THE EVENING*— BARROWS, OF ACIilLIJtS, &C»— - 
AT CHOMKALI. 

It was Saturday when we arrived at .Giaurkioi, and 
our Jews were prohibited by their law ftom going 
out of the village. Our janizary had bound over his 
eye, which was much inflamed, a piece of empty 
boney-comb, and the yelk of a boiled egg, but nei* 
ther recipe had relieved his torture. Our mariners, 
except one or two, were employed in rowing the 
boat to Chomkali, the town by the Asiatic castle ; 
the place where we had landed being exposed to 
winds^ and insecure from the force and rapidity of 
the current. Some Turks of Chomkali visited our 
companions. Their conversation, as was evident, 
turned on us, our dress, manners, and pursuits, which 
must have appeared to them strai^ and unaccount- 

able« They were fond of hearing us repeat the 

« 

^ It is to be wished that a premium were offered, and the un- 
dertaking recommended to commanders of ships in the Levant 
trade. They have commonly interpreters to negociate for them, 
with men, levers, ropes, and the other requisites ; besides instru- 
ments or tools, by whidi the stone might be broken, if neces- 
sary. By a proper application of all-prevailing gold, it is believed 
they might gain the permission or connivance of the papas and 
persons concerned. It should be done with secrecy. The expe- 
riment is easily made when they are at Tenedos, or wind-bound 
near the mouth of the Hellespont. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. £ 



50 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR* 

words of their language, which we had learned^ and 
called for. this display of our talents so often, that 
we b^an to think them troublesome and imperti- 
nent. 

From the brow by the church we had in - view 
several barrows, and a lai^ cultivated plain, parch- 
ed, and of a russet colour, excepting some planta- 
tions of cotton. On it were flocks of sheep and of 
goats; oxen unmuzzled treading out com; droves 
of cattle and horses, some feeding, others rolling in 
the wide bed^ which receives the Scamander and 
Simois united. Near the mouth was lively verdure, 
with trees; and on the same side as Sigeum, the 
castle, and Chomkali. By the water many women 
were employed, their fiices muffled, washing tinen, 
or spreading it to dry ; with children playing on the 
banks. It is proper here to inform the reader, that 
Ilium, or New Troy^ stood above the junction of the 
two streams ; and that the Simois, which has been 
mistaken for the Scamander, was the river next Si* 
geum and cape Baba or Lectos. 

When the heat of noon had subsided^ a moor or 
black, who was known to our janizary, with one of 
iDur Turks, armed, was ready to attend us. We de- 
scended from the church into the plain, and crossing 
the river above the women, to avoid giving offence, 
walked about two hours up into the country. We 
saw in this ramble some villages, consisting of a few 
huts ; and were worried more than once by the dogs, 
which are kept to guard the flocks and herds from 
wild beasts. They were very fierce, and not easily 
repelled by our mussulmen. The ground in many 
places appeared to have been swampy, and had 
channeb in it worn by floods and torrents. The 



TBAVEIiS IN ASIA MINOR. 51 

Turkey wheat standing in the fields had the ears 
turned yellow, 'and seemed ripe. Pieces of marble 
and broken columns lay scatter^ about. The bed 
of the river was very wide, the banks steep, with 
thicketsoftatnarisk growing in it. We saw small 
fish in the water ; and on the margin found a live 
tortoise, the first I had seen. I passed the stream 
several times without being wet-shod. We had ad- 
vanced in sight of some barrows, which are beyond 
the Scamander, and of a large conical hiU, more re- 
mote, at the foot of mount Ida, called anciently Cal- 
licolone, when the sun declining apace, to my great 
regret, we were obliged to go back. 

A rumour had prevailed that the consul, after 
parting from us at Tenedos, had been attacked by 
robbers in his way to Gallipoli. At our return to 
the village we found this intelligence confirmed, and 
our Jews in aifiiction. He had gone with company 
in a boat from the Dardanell. They landed to dine, 
as usual, ashore ; when the banditti rushed suddenly 
down upon them, and soon overcame them. The 
consul, as we were told, ran into the water up to his 
chin, where they still fired at him, and he was much 
hurt. 

We had purposed tanying a few days at Giaur- 
kioi, and after recovering from our late fatigue, to 
traverse and examine the plain minutely, and to 
penetrate to the sources of the Simois and Seaman- 
der in the recesses of mount Ida ; but now we had 
danger to apprehend from the desperate parties rang- 
ing about the country : our conductor was desirous 
to get back withcnit delay to the distressed family of 
his J^rother, where his presence was required ; and 
the indisposition of our janizary, which increased, 

£ 2 



68 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKO&. 

made our compUaiice with his wishes fts necessary as 
it was reason^le. 

Our cottage was not far from the brow of the 
hill on which the churdi stands, and we repaired 
thithar to enjoy again, before sunset, the ddidoas 
prospect. A long train of low carriages, resembling 
ancient cars, was then coming as it were in proces- 
sion from mount Ida. Each was wreathed round 
with wicker work, had two wheek, and conveyed 
a nodding load of green wood, which was drawn 
through the dusty plain by yoked oxen or buffaloes, 
with a slow and solemn pace, and with an ugly 
screaking noise. 

Eaily in the morning we descended the slope, on 
which Sigeum stood, going to our boat, which waited 
at Chomkali, distant about half an hour from Oiaur- 
ki<M by land. After walking dght minutes, we came 
between two barrows, standing each in a vineyard 
or enclosure. One was that of Achilles and Patro- 
clus ; the other, which was on our right hand, tiiat 
of Antilochus, son o£ Nestor. This had a fragment 
or two of white marble on the top, which i ascended ; 
as had also another on our right hand, not far off, 
which, if I mistake not, was that of Peneleus, one 
of the leaders of the Boeotians, who was slain by 
Eurypylus. We had likewise in view the barrow of 
Ajax Telamon; and at a distance from it on O^ 
side next Lectos, that of JQsyetes, mentidised in 
Homer. Frmn thence the road was between vine- 
yards, (5otton«fields, pomegranate, and fig-trees ; the 
verdure and freshness about the mouth of the river 
contrasted with the parched naked jdain surround- 
ing it, and as agr^able as striking. 

The town of Chomkali appeared to advantage 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 5S 

after the wretched places m which we had lately 
beea ; but is mean, and not laige. We tarried there 
at a coffeehouse, while our men purchased the ne- 
cessary provisions. We saw in the street two capi* 
tals of columns excavated, and serving as mortars to 
bruise wheat in« The water-cisterns are sarcophagi 
or ancient coffins, with vents. On one was a Greek 
inscription, not legible ; the stone rough. All these 
have been removed from adjacent ruins; for even 
the site of Chomkali and its castle is of modern ori- 
gin. 



CHAP. XIV. 

LAND IN TUB CHBRRONBSB-^A PANE0YRI8, OR 6BNBRAL AS* 
SBMBLY OF 6RBEKS — ^THBIR MUSICIANS — THEIR CHURCH 

*r-ARRIVB AT THB INNBR CASTLE CHARACTER OF OUR 

TURKS. 

W^K had intended to return by the coast rf Asia, 
hoping it might afford us something worthy obser- 
vation ; but when we came to the wherry, the rais 
or master refused, preferring the European side of 
the Hellespont, because, as he urged, the stream 
there is less violent. This point being settled, not 
much to our satisfaction, we were rowed over to the 
Cherronese, where we landed above Eleus^ within a 
point nearly parallel to Mastusia and its castle, and 
at the mouth of the hoUow bay Coelos, which lies 
between them, and has been mentioned before. We 
could discern some buildings among trees at the bot- 
tom of the bay, with piers of an aqueduct : and on 
the rock near us were vestiges of a fortress. 

We had not been long on shore, before our atten- 

e3 



54 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

tion was engaged hy the appearance of many boats, 
on the Hellespont, steering towards us, and fiill of 
people. The passengers landing, as they arrived, 
ascended a ridge near us in a long train, men and 
boys, women with infimts, and persons decrepit 
from age. On inquiry, we were informed that this 
was a great holyday among the Greeks, none of 
whom would be absent from the panegyris or gene^ 
ral OMenMy. The feast of Venus and Adonis by 
Sestos did not occasion a more complete desertion of 
the villages and towns on both sides the Hellespont, 
when Leander of Abydos first beheld and became 
enamoured with his mistress Hero. 

It is the custom of the Greeks on these days, 
after fulfilling their religious duties, to indulge in 
festivity. Two of their musicians, seeing us sitting 
under a shady tree, where we had dined, came and 
played before us^ while some of our Turks danced. 
One of their instruments resembled a common ta* 
hour, but was larger and thicker. It was sounded 
with two sticks, the performer beating it with a 
slender one underneath, and at the same time with 
A bigger, which had a round knob at the end, on the 
top. This was accompanied by a pipe with a reed 
for the mouthpiece, and below it a circular rim of 
wood, against which the lips of the player came. His 
checks were much inflated, and the notes were so va- 
rious, shrill, and disagreeable, as to remind me of a 
famous composition designed for the ancient aulos or 
flute, as was fabled, by Minerva®. It was an imita- 
tion of the squalling and wailing, made by the ser- 

*^ See Pindar. Pyth, »i9'- 



TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 55 

pent-haired goi^^s, when: Perseus maimed the triple 
sisterhood, by severing from their common body the 
head of Medusa. * 

Our Turks and the musicians, when tired, ex- 
pected, as usual, bac^^hish, or a present. After sa- 
tisfying them, we went up to the place at which 
the Greeks were assembled. It was about a quarter 
of a mile from the shore by a church of the Pana^ 
gia, or Virgin Mary, for so they called some walls of 
stones piled, without a roof, and stuck, on this so- 
lemnity, with wax candle lighted, and with small 
tapers. Close by was an aperture in the surface of 
the ground, with a spring running under the rock. 
This cavity, at which a portrait hung of the Virgin, 
painted on wood, was also illuminateid *^ and some 
priests, who took money of those who came for 
water, were preparing to perform mass near it. We 
were told it was a place of great sanctity. The 
multitude was sitting under half-tents, with store of 
melons and grapes, besides lambs and sheep to be 
killed, wine in gourds and skins, and other neces- 
sary provisions. 

We left this lively scene with some regret, and 
re-coasting the rough European shore, landed not 
far from the town and castle, on a spot which we 
found was a favourite place of resort, being noted 
for its verdure and shade, and for cool water ; each 
a source of pleasure, and as refreshing as grateful in 
climates of a warm temperature. Here a fire was 
presently kindled, and coffee made, and the whole 
company seemed to experience much self-enjoyment. 
We then returned on board, and our men tugged 
against the. stream, until we were considerably above 
-the two castles and' their towns, when the .tide set 

E 4 



56 TftATELS IN ASIA MIKOB. 

US over» and we landed in Asia, on the beach, from 
which we had embarked on our expedition. 

On quitting the boat, we took leave of our mns- 
sulmen, upon the whole well satisfied with their at- 
tention and dviiity. The rais was an obstinate 
hairy savage, as rough in figure as a bear. In their 
disputes some had displayed great ferocity, drawing 
their sabres and threatening ; but scmie were of far 
gentler manners. They were all temperate in their 
diet; cheerfully sating then* hunger with fruits, 
hard coarse bread, salt cheese, or sour curds called 
caimac; and contentedly quenching their thirst with 
water. Our janizary, Baructer-Aga, often requested 
we would speak well of him and his nation in Eng- 
land. He was tall, and polished in person and dress, 
and an excellent singer. Our Turks respected him, 
and he quelled thdr animosities, interposing with 
authority. He was exact and r^ular in perform- 
ing the customary ablutions, and failed not to re- 
hearse his prayera at the stated times, then sjH^ead- 
ing his doak on the ground, prostrating his body, 
and touching it with his forehead ; or standing in a 
suppliant posture, with his hands composed, deeply 
intent on his duty, and to appearance equally de^ 
vout and humble. 



CHAP. XV. 

OUR EMBARRASSMENT — ARRIVAL OF AN ENGLISH SHIP ITS 

DESTINATION ^WE EMBARK FOR SCIO— -QUICK PASSAGE. 

1 HE banditti, which infested these parts, were re- 
presented to us as numerous and cruel. We w&te 
assured, that in our late excursion we had been for- 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 57 

tunate rather than prudent; danger was now ap- 
parent, and to curiosity we must add caution. The 
consul had been attacked gmng to Gallipoli, about 
two hours from home. We had been told of ruins, 
which we supposed to be remains of Abydos, on that 
side; but were warned not to venture that way by 
hk recent peril. We had room to apprehend, that 
we might encounter some flying or lurking parties, 
and be intercepted or cut off, if we took the con- 
trary direction, and, as had been proposed, set out 
on horseback to explore the region between the 
Scamander and Simois. We were much perplexed 
by our situation, and unable to determine how to 
proceed. 

Night coming on, the recollection of our past 
sufferings here made us desire to - sleep in another 
house ; but the evil we wished to avoid was not pe- 
culiar to that of the. consul, and we had reason to 
long for the seashore or our vineyard again. The 
wind in the morning proved high, but we were too 
impatient, under present grievances, to tarry at this 
place, and resolved to get to Chomkali, the town we 
had lately left, and to pass on by sea to Smyrna. It 
remained only to purchase provisions, with utensils 
fi»r cooking, and other necessaries for the voyage, 
and to engage a boat, with proper servants and an 
interpreter ; when a messenger from the beach an- 
nounced the arrival of a ship with English colours. 

We had scarcely time to congi^atulate each other 
on this unexpected news, before the captain, whose 
name was Jolly, entered the room. He informed 
us that he had sailed with his ship the Delawar, not 
many hours since, from Gallipoli, where the Angli- 
cana had entered not long before ; that he was come 



58 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

to an andior in the road, all vessels from Constan- 
tinople stopping there, to be searched for contraband 
goods or fugitive slaves ; that he was bound for Cy- 
jmis and England, but should touch at Scio, from 
whence we might easily get to Smjrrna. 

We were now relieved firom our embarrassment. 
In the afternoon we took leave oi oar late compa- 
nion, and the Jewish family, and embarked on board 
the Delawar. We were followed by a stately well- 
dressed Turk in a boat. The captain, while the hold 
was examined, entertained him and some of bis offi- 
cers in the cabin, with pipes, coffee, and sherbet. 
When this ceremony was ended, we set sail^ with 
the wind fresh and fair. The pike of Tenedos ap- 
peared oven the main laiid of Asia. We soon cleared 
the Hellespont, and passing by the mouth of the 
Scamander, had a fareweU view of a part of the 
Troad, which deserves to be« carefully traversed ; 
which I quitted with all the reluctance of inflamed 
curiosity; and which I then hoped we might be 
able to revisit with better fortune from Smjrma. 

The satisfaction we derived from the sudden 
change of our situation for the better, received great 
addition from the liberal behaviour of our new cap- 
tain, by whom we were elegantly entertained, and 
after supper accommodated with clean bedding, on 
the cabin-floor, which afforded us much refresh- 
ment. The prosperous gale continued, and the 
ship made great' way. We sailed by the western 
side of the island Mitylene in the night; and pass- 
ing the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna, entered the 
channel of Scio, and before mid-day cast anchor in 
. the road off the city. 

^ About four o'clock in the afternoon. R. 



TEAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 59 

CHAP. XVL 

OF SClO-Mt«*S MODERN HISTORY — RBDUCBD BY THB TURKS 
^THB TOWT^-OIIITITK WOMEN— 'NUMBER OF DOGS MAN- 
NER OF BATHING — TH CONSUL, &C. PARTIES — THB 

WINES — ^THB LENTISCUS OR MMn«-«RJ£B — ^THB ANTI- 
QUITIES — TEMPLE OF CYBELB* 

The island Chios, now Sdo, is by 8tr^bo reckoned 
nine hundred stadia, or one hundred and twelve 
miles and a half, in circuit ; and about four hundred 
stadia, or fifty miles, from the island Mitylene. The 
{Nrincipal mountain, called anciently Pelina&us, pre- 
sents to view a long, lofty range of bare rock, re- 
flecting the sun ; but the recesses at its feet are di- 
ligently cultivated, and reward the husbandman by 
their rich produce. The slopes are clothed with 
vines. The groves . of lemon, orange, and citron- 
trees, r^ularly planted, at once peiiume the air 
with the odour of their blossoms, and delight the 
eye with their golden fruit. Myrtles and jasmines 
are interspersed, with olive and palm trees, and cy- 
presses. Amid these the tall minarees rise, and 
white houses glitter, dazzling the beholder. 

Scio shared in the calamities which attended the 
destruction of the Greek empire «. In the year 
109S, when robbers and pirates were in possession 
of several considerable places, Tzachas, a Tu)*kish 
malecontent, took the city. The Greek admiral en- 
deavouring to reduce it for the emperor Alexis, 
made a breach in the wall ; and he came to its re- 
lief from Smyrna with a fleet and eight thousand 
men, but soon after abandoned it in the night. In 
1306 this was one of the islands which sufiered 

^ See Modern Universal Histbrv. 



60 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

from the exactions of the grand duke lU^r, gene- 
ral of the Roman armies. The city was then seized 
by the Turks, who came before it with thirty sl^ps, 
and put the inhabitants to the sword. In 1346 it 
was taken by some galleys, fitted out by thirty noble 
Genoese. A fleet of sixty vessels was sent by the 
sultan in 1$9A to bum it and the towns aci^acent, 
and to ravage the islands and seacoast. The dty 
purchased peace from Mahomet the Second in 1455 ; 
giving a sum of money, and agreeing to pay tribute 
yearly. Scio experienced evil, but if it be compared 
with the sufferings of some other places, in these 
times of rapine and violence, fortune will seem to 
have concurred with the partiality of nature, and to 
have distinguished this as a favourite island. 

The Genoese continued in possession of Scio about 
two hundred and forty years. They were deprived 
of it in 1566, during the siege of Malta, by the 
Turkish admiral^ who garrisoned it for sultan Soly- 
man ; but the Ghiotes in general were still indulged 
with numerous and extraordinary privileges. They 
consisted of two parties, differing in their religious 
tenets ; one of the Greek persuasion, which acknow- 
ledge the patriarch of Constantinople as their head ; 
the other of the Latin, or papists, which enjoyed a 
free toleration under the Turks, their priests cele- 
brating mass as in Christendom, bearing the sacra- 
ments to the sick, going in solemn procession, ha- 
l^ted, beneath canopies, with censi^s in their hands, 
to the year 1694. The Venetians then attacked 
and took the castle, but abandoned it on a defeat of 
their fleet near the Spalmadore idands, which lie in 
the channel between Scio and the continent. The 
Latins, who had assisted them, dreaded the punish- 



TBAYSLS IN ASIA MINOR. 61 

mentp which their hngratitude deserved; and the 
prime faodilies, with the bishop, fled and settled in 
the Morea, which had been recently conquered by 
Uie Venetians. The Turks seized the churches, 
abolished the Genoese dress, and imposed on their 
vassals badges of their subjection ; obliging them, 
among qtber articles, to alight from their horses at 
the city gate, and at the approach of any, ev^d tlie 
meanest, mussulman. 

The town of Scio^ and its vicinity resembles 
from the sea Genoa arid its territory, as it were in 
miniature. The ancient city had a good port, and 
stations for eighty ships. The present, which occu«- 
pies its site, beneath Pelina&us, is lai^, well built, 
and populous. A naked hiU rises above it, with a 
house or two on the summit, where was the acropo- 
lis or citadel of the Gk'eeks, and afterwards of the 
Genoese. We found men at work therb, digging up 
the old foundations for the materials. The port has 
an ordinary or ruinous mole, like that of Tenedos, 
almost level with the water. The mouth is narrow, 
and beset with lurking rocks and shoals. It was 
about noon when we landed. We went to the 
house of the English consul, who was in the coun* 
try. A Greek^ called Antonio, his servant, and the 
dragoman or interpreter belonging to the captain, 
who was with us, procured some fowls and ^gs, 
with wine and fruit, lor our dinner. In the even* 
ing we walked over the town, which appeared to us 
as a collection of petty palaces, after the hovels of 
mud we had lately seen on the continrat^ 

The beautiful Greek girls are the most striking 

^ See Views. Le Brun^ p. 1 68. 



62 TKATELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

ornaments of Scio. Manj of these were sitting at 
the doors and windows, twisting cotton or silk, or 
etnplojed in spinning and needlework, and accosted 
US with fiuniliarily, tndding us wdcome, as we pass- 
ed. The street on Sondajrs and holidays are filled 
with them in groups. They wear short petticoats, 
reaching only to their knees, with white sQk or cot- 
ton hose. Their headdress, which is peculiar to the 
island, is a kind of turban, the. linen ^ so white and 
thin it seemed snow. Their slippers are chiefly 
yellow, with a knot of red fringe at the heel. Some 
wore them fastened with a thong. Their garments 
were of silk of various colours ; and their whole ap- 
pearance so fantastic and lively, as to afford us much 
entertainment. The Turics inhabit a separate quar- 
ter, and their women are concealed. 

We returned to the ship at ni^t, the drugoman 
and Chiote lighting us with long paper lanterns to 
the boat, which waited at the beach. A great num- 
ber of gaunt dogs were collected by the shambles, 
which are at the outskirt of the town. They barked 
furiously at us, but were chid and repelled by our 
guides, whose language they understood. The pub* 
lie, we were told, maintains them ; and they assem- 
ble, when all is quiet. These animals, it is observa- 
ble, were of old a like nuisance. They seem the 
lemures of the ancients, who used to pacify them 
with food. The Arcadians, in particular, were ac- 
customed to carry bread from their table on account 
of the nightly terrors, or the dogs, which they ex- 
pected to assail them in the streets ^. 

■ Calico or cotton ; they wear no linen. R. 
^ See note, Vitruviusy 1. 6. c. 5. 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. . 6S 

The next morning we were set on shore again. I 
accompanied captain Jolly to the principal bagnio or 
public bathing-place, a very noble edi6ce, with ample 
domes, all of marble ; and shall attempt to give an 
account of the mode of bathing. We undressed in 
a large square room, where linen is hung to dry, and 
the keeper attends with his servants. We had each 
a long tawel given us to wrap round our middle, and 
a pair of tall wooden pattens to walk in. We were 
led through a warm narrow passage into the inner 
room, which is yet more spacious, and made very 
hot by stoves, which are ccmcealed. In this was a 
water-bath, and recesses, with partitions, on the sides. 
The pavement in the centre under the dome was 
raised, and covered with linen cloths, on which we 
were bid to lie down.- We were soon covered with 
big drops of sweat, and two men naked, except the 
waist, then entered, and began kneading our flesh ; 
tracing all the muscles and cleansing the pores. By 
the time they had finished, our joints were sufficiently 
suppled, afkd they commenced the formidable opera* 
tion of snapping all of them, not only the toes, ancles, 
knees, fingers, and the like, but the vertebrae of the 
back, and the breast; one while wrenching our 
necks ; then turning us on our bellies, crossing our 
arms behind us, and placing their right knee be- 
tween our shoulders. The feats they perform can- 
not easily be described, and are hardly credible. 
When this was over, we were rubbed with a mohair- 
bag fitted to the hand, which, like the ancient strigil, 
brings away the gross matter perspired. We were 
then led each to a recess, supplied by pipes with hot 
and cold water, which we tempered to our liking, 



64 TEATEL8 IK ASIA MINOB. 

The men returned with 8oq>-hither and tow in a 
wooden bowl, with which they cleaned the skin, and 
then ponred a hiige quantity of warm water on our 
heads. Our spirits were quite exhausted, when they 
covered us with dry doths, and led us back to the 
first room, where beds were ready for us. On waking 
after a gentle slumber, we were presented each with 
a United pipe and a dish of coffee. We rose mui^ 
refireshed, and as the ladies of the aga or Turkish 
goyemor were expected there, hastened away. The 
common Turks and Greeks pay a very small gratuity 
for the use of the bath, which they frequent once a 
week or oftener. I have sometimes been r^aled, 
while in the inner room, with ripe fruits and sher- 
bet, and with incense burning to scent the air. One 
of my companions repeatedly partook with me in this 
innocent and wholesome luxury at Smyrna and at 
Athens. 

On our return from the bath we found the consul 
at home. He was a spare shrewd Greek, a direct 
contrast to the fat, open, hosfHtable Jew, our host at 
the DardanelL He presented us with pomc^pranates 
of a particular species, for which the island is noted* 
The kernels are free from stones. It is usual to 
bring them to table in a plate, sprinkled with rose 
water. These are excellent fruit, but accounted 
astringent. An English gentleman named Brace- 
bridge had come with the consul to visit us. He 
was an elderly person, and had been absent some 
years from his native country, for the benefit of a 
wanner climate. After inuch wandering, he gave 
the preference to this island above any of the places 
which he had tried. Our captain, who took leave of 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 65 

US at night, intending to sail in the morning, was 
detained some time longer by foul weather/ 

We soon found that the old religious parties still 
subsist with unextinguished animosity, each sect 
cherishing insuperable hatred, ^nd intriguing to ruin 
its adversary. We saw the Latins at their worship 
in the chapel of the vice-consul of the French na^ 
tion, which was very neat, well filled, especially with 
women, and handsomely illuminated. The English 
consul, who served some other European powers, 
was much haunted by priests of that church, and 
had a patent of knighthood from the pope. 

The wines of Scio have been celebrated as aiding di- 
gestion, as nutritive and pleasant. They were much 
esteemed by the Romans. Hortensius hoarded them ; 
and Caesar, who was as generous as magnificent, dis- 
pensed them freely to the people at his triumphs and 
sacrifices. It is related, that the culture of the vine 
was introduced by a son of Bacchus, cdled (Enopion, 
or the Wtne^JDrinker, whose sepulchre remained 
here in the second century ; and that red wine, with 
the method of making these liquors, was invented by 
the Chians. A rugged tract, named Arvisia, was par- 
ticularly famous for its produce, which has been ex- 
tolled as ambrosial, and stUed a new nectar. Mr. 
Braoebridge, whom we visited at his house near the 
town, treated us with a variety of choice specimens ; 
and it may be questioned, if either the flavour or 
qualities, once so commended, be at all impaired. 
In several we found the former truly admirable. 

To the peculiar possession of the Arvisian vine, 
now no longer talked of, has succeeded the profita- 
ble culture of the lentiscus, or mastic-tree. This 
employs, as we were told, twenty-one villages, which 

CHANDLEE, ASIA K. F 



66 TRAVELS IN ASIA MTKOR* 

are required to provide as many thousand okes ^ of 
gum annually, for the use of the seraglio at Constan- 
tinople. They procure it by boring the trunks with 
a small sharp iron, in the summer months. In Oc- 
tober their harvest is conveyed with music into the 
city, and lodged in the castle. The cadi and officers, 
who attend while it is weighed, have each a certain 
portion for their perquisite. The remainder is de- 
livered to the farmer or planter, to be disposed of for 
his own advantage. The Greeks of these villages 
have a separate governor, and enjoy many privil^es. 
In particular, they are allowed to wear a turban of 
white linen™, and their churches have each a bell to 
call them to prayers, an indulgence of which they 
speak with much glee. The Asiatic ladies are ex- 
cessively fond of this gum, which they chew greedi- 
ly, believing it good for the breath, and attributing 
to it various other exceUent properties. 

Prosperity is less friendly to antiquity than de- 
sertion and depopulation. We saw no stadium, 
theatre, or odeum ; but so illustrious a city, with a 
marble quarry near it, could not be destitute of 
those necessary structures, and perhaps some traces 
might be discovered about the hiU on which the 
citadel stood. A few bass-reliefs and marbles are 
fixed in the walls, and over the gateways of the 
houses ^. We found by the seaside, near the town, 
three stones with inscriptions, which had been 
brought for ballast from the continent of Asia. The 
Chiote, our attendant, was vociferous in his inquiries, 

^ An oke is a Turkish weight of about two pounds three quar- 
ters avoirdupois. 

°* Cotton or calico. R. 
" Inscript. Ant. p. 4. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 67 

but to little purpose. We were more than once de- 
sired to look at a Genoese coat of arms for a piece of 
ancient sculpture ; and a date in modem Greek for 
an old inscription. 

The most curious remain is that which has been 
named, without reason, the School of Homer. It 
is on the coast at some distance from the city, north- 
ward, and appears to have been an open temple of 
Cybele, formed on the top of a rock. The shape is 
oval, and in the centre is the image of the goddess, 
the head and an arm wanting. She is represented, as 
usual, sittii^. The chair has a lion carved on each 
side^, and on the back. The area is bounded by a 
low rim or seat, and about five yards over. The 
whole is hewn out of the mountain, is rude, indis«^ 
tinct, and probably of the most remote antiquity: 
From the slope higher up is a fine view of the rich 
vale of Scio, and of the channel, with its shining 
island, beyond which are the mountains on the 
mainland of Asia. 

° Fococke has metamorphosed the goddess and the two lions on 
the sides of the chair into Homer and a couple of the muses. 
The three figures, instead of certain parts only, were, I should 
suppose, supplied by the fancy of the drawer. The reader may 
have a much better idea of the original from a relief among the 
Oxford Miffbles^ n. cxv. The image, it is likely, held in the hand, 
which is missbg, either a patera, or tympanum. See n.cxiii. cxir. 



fS 



68 TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

CHAP. XVII. 

8BT SAIL FROM 8CIO-— MOOR IN A CRBEK— WBATHBR CAFB 
KARA-BORNU — THB INBAT— •VIEW OF SMYRNA FROM THB 
SEA — THE FRANK 8TREBT-«-THB CONSC7L's HOUSB — UVB 
CHAMBLBONS. 

The inconveniences under which we had laboured 
for some time rendered us impatient to get as fast 
as possible to Smyrna, y^e had been advised not to 
carry servants with us from England, and had made 
our way thus far alone. Besides the want of proper 
attendants, we were without our bedding, which, in 
our hurry at quitting the Anglicana, had been left 
on the quarter-deck. The weather was unfavourable 
to our departure from Sdo. Thick clouds covered 
the mountains, and the southerly wind called siroc- 
co prevailed. It thundered very much, with light- 
ning, and rained hard in the night. We had hired 
a boat manned with Greeks, and our baggage was 
carried to the customhouse to be inspected ; but it 
blew so violently, we were advised not to go on 
board. The next day the wind still continued high 
and contrary ; but as it seemed not likely to change, 
and our boat was stout, we resolved to venture, and 
accordingly about noon embarked vidth a rough sea. 
Leaving the mole of Scio, we buffetted the waves 
across to the continent, where we took in more bal- 
last. We then stood to and fro the whole afternoon, 
but made little way. Our boat carried a large un- 
handy sail, which, when we tacked about, did not 
readily clear, and once we barely escaped being over- 
set. In the evening we entered a small creek, and 
moored by two other vessels. In the rock close by 
were caverns black with smoke. These afford shel- 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 69 

ter to mariners and fishermen, in dark nights and 
tempestuous weather, when the sea is not navigable. 
We landed very wet from the salt spraj, and half- 
starved with hunger. We had endeavoured, when 
we stopped before, to make the crew understand, 
that our keen appetites required present gratifica- 
tion, but did not succeed. Some of them now made 
a fire on shore, and boiled the fowls which we had 
provided. We supped in a manner sufficiently dis- 
gusting, and retired to the boat, where the fresh bal- 
last was our bed. 

We were under sail again as soon as the morning 
dawned ; plying between mount Mimas on the con- 
tinent and the Spalmadore islands, called anciently 
CBnussae. They belonged to the Chians, who had 
refused to sell them to the Phoceans. About two 
we weathered the southern promontory of the gulf 
of Smjrma, formerly called Acra Melaena, or Black 
Point. The Turkish name, which now prevails, sig- 
nifies nearly the same. It is Kara-bomu, or Black 
No^e. 

Smyrna is situated in the latitude of 38^. 40°^. at 
the end of a long bay. As soon as we had gained 
the mouth of this gulf, the wind called inbat began 
to waft us pleasantly along. This, which is a wes- 
terly wind, sets regularly in, during the hot months, 
in the daytime; and is generally succeeded by a 
land-breeze in the night. The city was in view be- 
fore us, when evening came on, and the gale died 
away. 

We arrived at the Frank Scale, or key for Euro- 
peans, early in the morning, and beheld Smyrna, no 
longer remote, spreading on a slope, the summit of 
the hill crowned with a large solitary castle ; domes 

f8 



t6 



70 TBAVELS IS ASIA MINOB. 

and minafeeSy with cypress-trees interspersed, risii^ 
above the houses^ On the south side, where the Ar- 
menians and Jews have extensive bniying-gTOunds, 
on flats one above another, the surface of the ac- 
clivity appeared as covered with white marble. The 
quarter assigned to the Franks is on the north side ; 
and hj the shore, not far ftom us, the Engtbh flag 
was hoisted. Soon after, the consul, then Antony 
Hayes^ esq. sent an Armenian, one of his drugomen, 
or interpreters, to be our guide to his house. 

We landed, and passed through the bezesten, or 
market, which is **in form like a street, Cutting 

up at each end, the shops being little rooms with 

cupolas leaded, and holes on the top with glass to 
** let the light in p." We then entered the street of 
the Franks, which had a dirty kennel, was of a 
mean aspect, and so narrow, that we could scarcely 
get by a camel laden with charcoal. It was partly 
in ruins, a terrible fire having happened in the pre* 
ceding year 4; and some of the consuls and mer* 
chants were now rebuilding, or had recently fini^ed 
their houses, which in general extend from the street 
backward to the beach, and have an area or court. 
The apartments are in the upper story, spacious 
and handsome, with long galleries and terraces, open 
to the sea and the refreshing inbat. Beneath them 
are large and substantial magazines for goods. 

We were received by the consul, and visited by 
Mr. Lee, one of the principal merchants, and by the 
factory and other gentlemen, with great civility. As 
we were likely to make some stay, we inquired for 
lodgings, but were told that the families which had 

P Wheler.^ n About three yeafs before. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 71 

been burned out occupied all, and were distressed 
for room. The consul politely offered us a detached 
part of his house, which consists of a large quad- 
rangle, with a court behind it. We were here much 
at our ease, and close by an ample gallery, where 
we might enjoy the grateful inbat, with a*iull view 
of the shipping and of the long fair canal within 
Kara-bomu, which is bordered by woody mountains 
and dusky olive*gro¥es ; the surface of the water 
shining, and smooth; or ruffled by the wind; the 
waves then coming toward Smyrna as it were in 
r^ruiar progression, and breaking on the beach. 

Among the new objects, which first attracted bur 
attention, were two live chameleons, one of the size 
of a large lizard. They were confined each on a 
long narrow piece of board suspended between two 
strings, and had for security twisted their tails se- 
veral times round. We were much amused with 
the changes in the colour of these reptiles, and ivith 
seeing them feed. A fly, deprived of its wings, 
being put on the board, the chameleon soon perceives 
its prey, and untwirling its tail, moves toward it 
very gently and deliberately. When within distance, 
it suddenly seizes the poor insect, darting forward 
its tongue, a small long tube furnished with glu- 
tinous matter at the end, to which the fly adheres. 
This is done so nimbly and quietly, that we did not 
wonder it remained unobserved for ages, while the 
creature was idly supposed to subsist on air. One 
of these made its escape, the other perished with 
hunger. 



F 4 



72 TEAVELS IN ASIA MIKOK. 

CHAP. XVIII. 

ORIGIN OP SMYRNA— THB 8ITB— ITS PROSPBRITY — ^RUINBD 

THB CITABBL RBPAIRBD THB MAHOMBTAN ANI> 

CHRISTIAN TOWNS— SUCCBSS OF TABCBRLANB— SBCTH.NA 
RBDUCBD BY THB SULTANS — THB PRE8BNT TOWN — THB 
CITADBL — THB STADIUM AND THBATRB— THB PORT — T0B 
WALLS — THB SBPULCHRBS*-CONSUMPTION OF THB OLD 
MATXRIALS-^TOMB OF ST. POLYCARP. 

It is related of Alexander the Great, that after 
hunting he fell asleep on mount Pagus beneath a 
plane-tree, which grew by a fountain, near a temple 
of the Nemeses; and that the goddesses directed 
him in a vision to found there a city for the Smyr- 
neans, a people from Ephesus, then living in vil- 
lages. The work was begun by Antigonus, and fi- 
nished by Lysimachus. The Clarian oracle was 
consulted on the removal of the Smymeans% and 
answered in an heroic couplet, that those, who 
should dwell on mount Pagus, heyond the sacred 
MeleSy would experience great prosperity. After- 
wards the Ephesians, remembering their common 
origin, procured, with the concurrence of king At- 
.talus and of Arsinoe his queen, their admission as 
members of the Ionic body ; an honour which they 
had coveted long before, when it was first consti- 
tuted". The Smymeans acknowledged more than 
one Nemesis; and two are represented as appear- 
ing to the warrior, on a medallion in the Vatican \ 

The site selected by Alexander for this people 
was such as the ancient founders commonly pre- 
ferred. Their cities in general were seated by some 

' Pausanias, p. 210. • Vitruvius, p. 55. 

^ See Museum C. Albani. v. 1 . pi. 32. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 78 

hill or mountain^ which^ as this did, supplied them 
with marble, and was commodious as well for de^ 
fence as ornament. The side or slope afforded a 
secure foundation for the seats of the stadium and 
theatres, lessening both the labour and expense. It 
displayed the public and private structures, which 
rose from its quany, to advantage; and rendered 
the view as captivating as noble. The Greeks were 
of old accounted happy in choosing their situations. 
They had been studious to unite beauty with 
strength, and good ports with a fertile soil. The 
Romans were attentive to articles neglected by 
them, to the paving of the ways, to the building of 
aqueducts, and to the common shores. 

Smjnua flourished, as Apollo had foretold; and, 
under the Romans, was esteemed the most beauti- 
ful of the Ionian cities. The wall comprised a por- 
tion of mount Pagus, but more of the plain by the 
port, by the metroum or temple of Cybele, and by 
the gymnasium. The streets were as straight as the 
site would admit, and excellently disposed. The 
ways were paved. Both above and below were large 
quadrangular stoa? or porticoes. There was also a 
library, and, besides the other requisites of a noble 
dty, a port which shut up; but from an omission 
of the architects, the want of sewers occasioned a 
great nuisance. It was much frequented by the 
^sophists, and, with Ephesus, became renowned as 
a school of oratory and science. It has been ex- 
alted with high encomiums, and styled the lovely, 
the crown of Ionia, the ornament of Asia, 

In the year 1084, Tzachas, a Turkish malecon- 
tent, who assumed the title of king, seized and 
made Smyrna his capital. His fleet took Clazo^ 



74 TEAYEXS IK ASIA MINOR. 



mene, Fhocea, Sdo, Sraaog, Mitykne, and other 
jdaces. In 1097 this dty was besieged by John 
Ducas, the Greek admnral: and on its surrender, 
Caspaces, who had been sent to attack it by sea, 
was appointed governor ; but a Turk stabbed him, 
and his death was revenged by the massacre of ten 
thousand inhabitants. The whole coast of Asia, 
from Smyrna to Attalia, had been desolated by the 
wars, when the Greek emperor sent Philokales, in 
1106, to restore its cities. Adramyttium, which had 
been utterly destroyed, was then rebuilt, and peo- 
pled with peasants and strangers. 

At the b^inning of the thirteenth century, 
Smyrna lay in ruins, except the acropolis or citadel, 
which then served as a fortress. This was repaired 
and beautified by the emperor John Angelus Com- 
nenus ^, who died in 1224. Smyrna, thus restored, 
was a small town chiefly on the summit of mount 
Pagus, or within the present castle. 

In 1313, Atin had subdued Lydia, and extended 
his conquests to this place. In 1332, Amir or Ho- 
mur, his son and successor, was sultan of Smyrna. 
In 1345, while he was absent with his fleet, ravag- 
ing the coasts of the Propontis, some galleys of the 
Latins, and of the knights of Rhodes, burnt several 
vessels in the port. Amir arrived in time to save 
the town, but could not dislodge the enemy from a 
fort which they had seized, nor prevent their mak- 
ing of a settlement at the mouth of the port, at a dis- 
tance from the Turkish town. The next year the 
pope sent thither a nominal patriarch of Constanti- 
nople, escorted by twelve galleys ; but Amir, while 

" Ducas^ c. 7. 



XAAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. T5 

mass was celebrating in the cbozcfay attacked and 
drove the Italians, into then* dtadel, called fort St. 
Peter, before which he was afterwards kiUed by an 
arrow. 

Tam^Iane, who ravaged AnatoUa^ or Asia Minor, 
in 1402, hearing that the Christians and Mahomet-' 
ans had each a strong hold at Snijniia, and were 
always at war, required the former to change their 
religion ; but the governor soliciting aid from the 
European princes, Tamerlane marched in person to 
snbdue a place which sultan Morat had attempted 
in vain, and which his son Bajazet had besieged or 
Uockaded for seven years. He attacked it by sea 
and land ; and, to ruin the port, mrdered each sol-» 
dier to throw a stone into the mouth, which was 
soon filled up; but the ships had got away. He 
took the town in fourteen days, with great slaugh-> 
ter of the inhabitants, and demolished the houses. 
The knights had fled into the castle of St. Peter, 
and thence to their galleys, which lay near. He is 
said to have cut off a thousand prisoners, and to 
have caused a tower to be erected with stones and 
their heads intermixed. 

Cineis, who had long been governor of the Turk* 
ish town, continued in possession, when it was thus 
freed from its enemy and rival. He was much es^ 
teemed by the lonians, and, after a variety of for- 
tune, rose to be a sovereign in Asia. Sultan Mo- 
hammed the First marched against him in 1419, 
and deprived him of Nympheum, the city Cyme, 
and a fortress in the field of Menomen. He was 
assisted by the governors of the islands, who hated 
Cineis, by several princes on the continent, his 
neighbours, and even by the grand marter of 



76 TBAVEI.S IK ASIA MINOK. 

Rhodes, who was then rebuilding fort St. Peter, 
which Tamerlane had destroyed. He demolished 
the fortification of Smyrna, but spared the inha- 
bitants ; and, on a complaint that the Ionian slaves, 
who escaped from their owners, found shelter in 
the fort, ordered it to be ruined ; permitting another 
to be erected on the borders of Lyda and Caria. 
Smyrna was again taken in 1424 by sultan Morat, 
Cineis retiring to the mountains. 

When the conquering Turk had gained complete 
possession of the Greek empire, and peace was re- 
stored, commerce reviyed, and again settled at 
Smyrna. The inhabitants, delivered from their ap- 
prehensions of danger, by degrees abandoned the 
castle, and the town slid, as it were, down the slope 
towards the siea ; leaving behind it a naked space, 
where they now dig for old materials, and also some 
ordinary ruins below the castle, which overlooks the 
buildings and the bay, at a distance. 

The reader will not be surprised if few traces of 
the ancient city remain. From a survey of the 
castle, which is extensive, we collect, that after being 
reedified by John Angelus Comnenus, its condition, 
though less ruinous than before, was far more mean 
and ignoble. The old wall, of which many rem- 
nants may be discovered, is of a solid massive con- 
struction, worthy of Alexander and his captains. All 
the repairs are mere patchwork. Near the western 
gateway, at which you enter from the town, was 
once a fountain, now dry ; by which is a marble co- 
lossal head, the face much injured, of Apollo, or, as 
some have supposed, of Smjrma, an Amazon, from 
whom the people derived their name. Within is a 
deserted mosque, rubbish of buildings, and a large 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 77 

reservoir for water ; the roof arbhed, and supported 
by piers. On the marble arch of the gateway front- 
ing the north is inscribed a copy of verses, giving 
an elegant and poetical description of the extreme 
misery from which the emperor John, before men- 
tioned, had raised the city ; and concluding with an 
address to the omnipotent Ruler of heaven and 
earth, that he would grant him and his queen, 
whose beauty it celebrates^ a reigii of many years *. 
On each side is an eagle, rudely cut. The river 
Hermus may be seen from this eminence, which 
also affords a view of a fine champaign country 
round about, covered with vines. 

Going down fivm the western gate of the castle 
toward the sea^ at some distance is the ground-plat 
of the stadium, stripped of its marble seats and de- 
corations. One side was on the slope of the moun- 
tain ; the opposite, or that next to the town, was 
raised on a vaulted substruction, which remains. It 
appears as a long dale, semicircular, or rounded at 
' the top. The area, when we first saw it, had been 
reaped; and, another time, some men were busy 
ploughing in it. Groing from the northern gate of 
the castle, over which is the inscription, you come 
to vestiges of a theatre, in the side of the hill, near 
the brow, and fronting the bay. Farther down is a 
quarry. Below the theatre is part of a slight wall, 
which, with a foss round the hill, was begun about 
the year 1736, to protect the town from Soley Bey 
Ogle, a £Eimous rebel, by whom it had been much 
distressed 3^. 

The port, which shut up, reached once to the 

* Inscript. Ant. p. 5. ^ Pococke. 



78 TEAV£I.S IN ASIA MINOR. 

foot of die castleJiiU, but is now dry, except after 
heavy rains, when it receives water from the slopes. 
It forms a spacious recess within the present town, 
and has houses along the margin. Tamerlane,. by 
depriviug the sea of its free ingress, contributed to 
this change, and the mud washed from above has 
gradually completed it. Like some of the Italian 
havens, it required perhaps to be cleansed, and 
deepened by machines contrived for that purpose. 
It is mentioned as the galley port at the beginning 
of tliis century ^ A small mean castle still in use, 
on the north side of the entrance, is supposed to oc- 
cupy the site of fort St. Peter. 

The city wall, which, descending from the castle, 
induded the stadium on <Mie hand, and the theatre 
on the other, has been long since demolished ; and 
even its ruins are removed. A small remnant of it, 
on the hill above the stadium, consists of hard ce- 
ment of rubUe ; but has been faced with better ma^ 
terials. This species of ancient masonry was called 
pseudModomum^ as having externally the same ap- 
pearance as the Uodomumf which was wholly of 
stone, or marble, the pieces regularly disposed. This 
side comprehended a krge portion of the burying- 
grounds without the present town. The side next 
the theatre may be traced a considerable way alcmg 
the brow, from its junction with the north-east angle 
of the castle. In the Armenian quarter, by The 
JTkree Comers^ or near the Frank street, are rem- 
nants of a thick and massive wall, which has a large 
V cut on each stone ; and in 1675 the foundations 
of a great and solid fabric, probably the gymnasium, 

' See Tournefort. 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MIKOB. 79 

were visable in that part. Beyond the deep valley, 
in wMch the river Meles winds, behind the castle, 
are several portions of the watt of the pomoerimn, 
which encompassed the dty at a distance, but 
broken. The facings are gone, and masses only of 
hard cement and rubble are left. 

The ancient sepulchres were chiefly in the praaee- 
rium, without the city. One, which has been ab- 
surdly supposed a temple of Janus, remained in 
1675, in the way to Eshekleer, or beyond the river 
Meles, and on the left of the rdad leading toward 
Magnesia. It was then among oUve-trees, in a field. 
The inscriptions of several are preserved, and have 
been published. At the house of a Turk, occupied 
by Mr. PumeU, an English gentleman, was a mar** 
ble sarcophagus, of which a very exact drawing ig 
given by Le Brun *. 

The ancient city has supplied materials for the 
public edifices erected by the Turks. The bezesten, 
or market, which was unfinished in 1675, and the 
vizir-khan, were both raised with the white marble 
of the theatre. The very ruins of the porticoes and 
temples are vanished. We saw remains of one only ; 
some shafts of columns of variegated marble, much 
injured, in the way ascending through the town to 
the castle. Many pedestals, statues, inscriptions, 
and medals, have been and are still discovered in 
digging. Perhaps no place has contributed more 
than Smyrna to enrich the collections and cabinets 
of the curious in Europe. 

In the history of St. Polycarp, the first bishop of 
Smyrna, it is related, that he was burnt here in the 



a 



See Wheler, p. 243. and Spon, t. i. p. 310. p. 130. 



80 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOE. 

amphitheatre \ The Asiatic dties^ used the stadium 
for the diversions of the Ronian amphitheatre ; and 
that, it is probable, was the scene of hb martyrdom. 
His sepulchre, which the Greek Christians are said 
to have revered, and to have visited annually on the 
day of his festival, or on the twenty-third of Fe- 
bruary, is still to be seen, as travellers have reported, 
by a spreading tree below the castle ; but this is an 
idle tale, and deserves to be exploded. I examined 
the spot, and made particular inquiries, but could ob- 
tain no satisfactory information. If his relics were in- 
terred, and the place once venerated, the knowledge 
of it has long since perished. The early tradition, if 
true, must have been often intercepted in its course 
downwards. The race of citizens, among whom it 
was most likely to be preserved, has been extirpated 
by war, plague, fire, and earthquakes ; and Smyrna 
has been destitute of Greeks. Even now, under a 
more settled government, the same family seldom 
subsists there more than three generations. 



CHAP. XIX. 

SMYRNA A GREAT MARt^— THB PjioPLB— DRB88 OF THB WO- 
MEN— BUILDINGS— -HEAT, EARTHQUAKES, AND PLAGUE 
«— fiURTING-GROUNDS—- PROVISIONS — MUSQUITTOE8 OR 
GNATS. 

The devastations committed in Asia Minor, and 
the changes effected on the coast, as will be shewn 
hereafter, by the rivers, have rendered Smyrna the 
only considerable mart by the seaside ; and, in con- 
sequence, the prindpal centre of the traffick of the 

^ Stadium. R. 



TRAVEXS IN ASIA MINOR. 81 

country. One lucrative branch of its commerce 
failed during the troubles in Persia, when the 
throne was usurped by Nadir Shah. The accus- 
tomed communication by caravans was then inter** 
rupted ; and trade, meeting with obstructions in the 
old course, which it had held for ages^ turned away 
into new channek. But, with this loss, Smyrna 
continues a lai^e and flourishing city. The bay, 
besides numerous small-craft, is daily frequented by 
ships of burden from the chirf ports in Europe; 
and the factors, who are a respectable body, at once 
live in affluence and acquire fortunes. 

The conflux at Smyrna of people of various na^ 
tions^ differing ill dress, in manners, in language, 
and in religion, is very considerable. The Turks 
occupy by far the greater part of the town. The 
other tribes live in separate quarters. The pro- 
testants and Roman catholics have their chapels ; the 
Jews a synagogue or two ; the Armenians a large 
and handsome church, with a burying-ground by it. 
The Greeks, before the fire, had two churches. They 
applied, by their bishop at Constantinople, for leave 
to rebuild that which was destroyed, but the sum 
demanded was too exorbitant to be given. By this 
policy the Turks will in time extirpate Christianity 
from among their vassals. 

The factors, and other Europeans settled at 
Smyrna, generally intermarry with the Greeks, or 
with natives of the same religion. Their ladies wear 
the oriental dress, consisting of large trowsers or 
breeches, which reach to the ande; long vests of 
rich silk, or of velvet, lined in winter with costly 
furs; and round their waist an embroidered zone, 
with clasps of silver or gold. Their hair is platted, 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. G 



8S TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and descends down the back, often in great profu- 
sion. The girls have sometimes above twenty thick 
tresses, besides two or three encircling the head, as 
a coronet, and set off with flowers, and plumes of 
feathers, pearls, or jewels. They commonly stain it 
of a chesnut colour, which is the most desired. Their 
apparel and carriage are alike antique. It is re- 
markable that the trowsers are mentioned in a frag- 
ment of Sappho^. The habit is light, loose, and 
cool, adapted to the climate. When they visit each 
other, they put over their heads a thin transparent 
veil of muslin, with a border of gold tissue. A ja- 
nizary walks before, and two or more handmaids 
follow them, through the streets. When assembled, 
they are seen reclining in various attitudes, or sit- 
ting cross-legged on a sofa. Girls of inferior rank 
from the islands, especially Tino, abound.; and are 
many of them as beautiful in person, as picturesque 
in their appearance. They excel in a glow of co- 
lour, which seems the effect of a warm sun, ripen- 
ing the human body as it were into uncommon per- 
fection. The women of the Turks, and of some 
other nations, are kept carefully concealed; and 
when they go out, are enwrapped in white linen \ 
wear boots, and have their faces muffled. 

The principal buildings in Smyrna are the 
mosques, the public baths, the bezesten or market, 
and the khans or inns. Some of these are very 
ample and noble edifices. The khans have in gene- 
ral a quadrangle or square area, and sometimes a 
fountain in the middle. The upper story consists 



« Warton*8 Theocritus, p. 304. They are now called PpdKvi, 
^ Calico. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 88 

of an open galleiy^ with a range of apartments, and 
often a small mosque, or place of worship, for the 
use of the devout mussulmen. Below are the ca- 
mels with their burdens, and the mules, or horses. 
A servant dusts the floor of a vacant chamber when 
you arrive, and spreading a mat, which is all the 
furniture, leaves you in possession. The gates are 
shut about sunset, and a trifling gratuity is ex- 
pected by the keeper at your departure. 

The streets of Smyrna, a few excepted, are very 
narrow, and exceedingly intricate. Caution is re- 
quisite in going out of the Frank quarter, and it is 
proper to be preceded by a janizary as a safeguard. 
The lofty mountains ®, which shelter the town, and 
leave it open only to the sea, concentre the rays of 
the sun, as it were into a focus. The intense heat 
commences in June, and continues without inter- 
mission to the end of August or the middle of Sep- 
tember. During this period, if the inbat fail, the 
inhabitants are distressed, and even gasp for breath. 
The ground is then burnt up, and has large chasms 
and fissures, which, as some have imagined, give 
vent to bituminous vapours. These, if confined, are 
supposed to occasion earthquakes by their explo-. 
sion. A year seldom passes without a shock or two, 
but generally slight, and less hurtful than alarming. 
They happen chiefly in spring and autumn, when 
the weather is calm ; and it has been remarked at 
those times, that the sea commonly withdraws from 
the beach, and the water is unusually low. Besides 
this calamity, Smyrna is visited almost annually by 

^ The mountains behind Smyrna were anciently called Mastu- 
sia and Termetis. PUny, 

G 2 



84 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



the plagae. If the distemper rage, the consuls and 
factors either retire into the country, or, as the 
phrase is, shut up, not admitting even the market- 
man to enter their gates. Many of the people aban- 
don their dwellings, and live abroad under tents. 
The islanders return home, and the streets of the 
Frank quarter, which is exceedingly populous, cease 
to be trodden. 

The Turks bury chiefly without the town, where 
the enclosures are very extensive, it being their cus- 
tom not to open the grounds filled with bodies, until 
a long term of years has elapsed. The graves have 
stones or piUars at the head and feet, and are some- 
times shaded with cypress-trees. In their cemete- 
ries, and in those of the Christians and Jews, are 
found many marble slabs and fragments of architec- 
ture. The English ground, which is at a distance 
from the Frank quarter, at the opposite end of the 
town, is walled in, and contains some monuments 
worthy notice for the beauty of their sculpture. 
These were brought fipom Italy. Mr. Bouverie, the 
friend and companion of Mr. Dawkins and Mr. 
Wood, is interred there, and has over him a plain 
marUe, with a long Latin inscription. He died at 
Guzelhissar or Magnesia by the Maeander. 

Smyrna is well supplied with provisions. The 
sheep have broad tails, hanging down like an apron, 
some weighing eight, ten, or more pounds. These 
are eaten as a dainty, and the fat, before they are 
fuU grown, accounted as delicious as marrow. The 
flesh of wild hogs is common, and in esteem among 
the Europeans and Greeks, who purchase the ani- 
mal, when killed by the Turks. Fine fish is taken 
in the bay. Hares, with game and fowl, are cheap. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR, 85 

The partridges are bigger than the Esglish, of a 
different colour and species, with red legs. The 
olive groves furnish doves, fieldfares, thrushes, quails, 
snipes, and the Uke, in abundance. A variety of 
Excellent wines are produced in the country, or im- 
ported from the islands. The fruits are of an ex* 
qui^ite flavour. Among those of the gourd kind, 
the water-melon, which grows to a great size, is 
not only highly palatable, but so innocent as to be 
allowed to the sick in fevers. The figs are deserv- 
edly famous. The rich clusters of grapes are as 
wholesome as beautiful. Many on the stalk are 
found converted by the sun into raisins. We were 
shewn one species which had no stones. Large and 
heavy bunches are hung on strings, and preserved 
in the shops for sale in the winter. Lemons and 
oranges, with citrons, are in plenty. The sherbets 
made with the juice of the two former, newly ga- 
thered, in water, sweetened with white honey, are 
as cooling as grateful to the taste. Coffee is brought 
from Arabia. We partook almost daily of eatables 
unknown to us before. It is the general custom to 
sleep after dinner; and this indulgence is recom- 
mended as conducing, and even necessary, to health 
in that climate. 

Our situation was not, however, without griev-^ 
ances. We were much infested by a minute fly, 
which irritates by its puncture, and, settling on the 
white waU, eludes the angry pursuer with surpris- 
ing activity. But this species, and the other insects 
which annoyed us, were petty offenders compared 
with the musquittoes, or large gnats, which torment-^ 
ed us most exceedingly by their loud noise, and by 
repeated attacks on our skin, where naked or lightly 

63 



86 TBAYELS IN ASIA HINOB. 

clothed, perforating it with their acute proboscis, and 
sucking our blood, till they were fuU. A small fiery 
tumour then ensues, which will not soon subside, un- 
less the patient has been, as it were, naturalized by 
residence ; but the pain is much allayed by lemon- 
juice. At night they raged furiously about out 
beds, assaulting the gauze veil, our defence, which, 
thin as it was, augmented the violent heat to a de- 
gree almost intolerable. Their fondness of foreign 
food is generally but too visible, in the swollen and 
distorted features of persons newly arrived. 



CHAP. XX. 

OF THB ADJACENT COUNTRY — ^THE RIVES MELES— -THE IN- 
NER BAY— OLD SMYRNA ^ANCIENT SEPULCHRES-— ORIGlK 

OF OLD SMYRNA STORY OF HOMER — OF ANOTHER POET 

OF SMYRNA — ^THB AQUEDUCTS — ^THE CAVE OF HOMER— 
THE RIVER-GOD. ' 

Smyrna has on the south-east^ a fine plain, in 
which are villages, and the houses of the principal 
factors, who reside in the country in the summer. 
Norlecui and Hadjelar are toward the east. On the 
north ^ side is Bujaw, distinguished by tall cypress- 
trees; and about a league from the sea Bonavre. 
In the way to this village, not far from the road, is 
a pool or two, now called the baths of Diana, the 
water clear and warm, a steam arising from it in 
winter. The fragments of a marble edifice near it 
have been removed. Some arches and foundations of 
buildings have been discovered in digging. In the 
middle of the plain are several small canals, which 

f Pococke. s North-east. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 87 

communicate with aqueducts behind the castle-hill. 
The bed of a torrent, which after rains falls into the 
river Meles, is on the south of the plain ; and be- 
yond, or toward the feet of the mountains, is a village 
called Sedicui. Wild animals abound; and espe- 
cially jackals, which are heard nightly, howling on 
the hills or in the plain. When one begins, the 
rest join as it were in full cry. Chameleons and li- 
zards are commonly seen about the rubbish of old 
buildings, basking in the sun ; and several kinds of 
snakes are found, some of a great lengthy which fre- 
quently are discovered by their musky smell. 

The Meles was anciently the boast of the Smyr- 
neans. This most beautiful water, as it has been 
stiled, flowed by the city-wall, and had its sources 
not remote. The clear stream is shallow in sum^ 
mer, not covering the rocky bed, but winding in 
the deep valley behind the castle, and murmuring 
among the evergreens. It receives many rills from 
the sides; and, after turning an over-shot mill or 
two, approaches the gardens without the town, 
where it is branched out by small canals, apd di- 
vided and subdivided into lesser currents, until it is 
absorlied, or reaches the sea, at the end of the Frank 
street, in ditches, unlike a river : but in winter, after 
heavy rains on the mountains, or the melting of 
snow, it swells into a torrent, rapid and deep, often 
not fordable, or with danger. 

On the north of Smyrna the sea enters a recess, 
in which is the road where ships careen. This in- 
ner bay is called by the English sailors, Peg's hole. 
The Meles, -when full, pursues its way thither, in-, 
stead of losing itself in the gardens. There also 
the first Smyrna was situated. 

6 4 



88 T&ATXL8 IK ASIA MIVOB. 

Old Smyrna was about twoity stadia, or two 
miles and a half, from the present dty, and on the 
other side of the river. It is described as near the 
sea, with the clear stream of the Meles running by, 
and existed in the second century. Peihaps some 
vestiges might be discovered, even now, in tracing 
the river toward the bay. This is less wide than 
it was anciently, and has been remov^ from the 
site, by a huge accession of low land, formed of 
soil washed from the mountains near, or of mud 
and slime brought down by the torrents. 

Pococke^ has described several very ancient se^ 
pulchres on the side of the iiill, more to the west 
than Bonavre, and near the comer of the bay, which, 
I should suppose, are relics of old Smyrna. The 
plainest smt consists, as he relates, of a raised ground 
in a circular form, of stones hewn out, or laid in a 
roug^ manner. In these are generally two graves, 
sunk in the earth, made of hewn stone, and covered 
over with a large stone. The others are circular 
mounts, from twenty to sixty feet in diameter, walled 
round, as high as their tops, with large rusticated 
stones 4 and have within, under ground, a room, which 
in some is divided into two apartments. The walls 
are all of good workmanship, constructed with a kind 
of brown bastard granite, the produce of the country, 
wrought very smooth ; the joinings as fine as in po^ 
lished marble. Some of the English had opened 
one of the former sort, and found an urn in it^. I 
visited an old Turkish cemetery of considerable ex- 
tent by Bonavre ; and regret that I w&s not then 
tipprised of these curious remains. 

»• P. 93. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 89 

The Smyrneans were originally of Ephesus, but 
had seceded, and, after dispossessing the Lel^es, 
founded the city above mentioned. They were ex- 
pelled in turn by the .^lians of Cyme, and retired 
to Colophon ; but a party, pretending to be fugi<« 
tires, obtained readmission, aqd, while the people 
were celebrating a feast of Bacchus without the 
walls, shut the gates. A general war was likely to 
f<Aow between MoMa and Ionia, but it was at 
length agreed, that the town should deliver up all 
the effects of the late inhabitants, who were to be 
distributed among the .^lian cities. The territory 
of Smyrna had suppUed com for exportation, and 
the place was- then become a considerable emporiums 
The Lydians destroyed this city, and the Smyr- 
neans subsisted four hundred years as villagers, be- 
fore they settled on mount Pagus. 

It was the ifiolian Smyrna which claimed the 
glory of producing Homer. Critheis, his mother, it 
is related, going in company with other women out 
Gi the town, to observe a festival, was delivered of 
him near the Meles, and named him Melesigenes. 
This story is dated ten years after the building of 
Smyrna, and one hundred and fifty-eight after the 
war of Troy. We may regret that the pleas of all 
the cities, which disputed the honour of his birth, 
are not on record. The place and time are equally 
unascertained; and it has been observed, that the 
poet has mentioned neither the Meks nor Smyrna K 

The history of Homer, it is remarkable, is scarcely 
more obscure than that of another poet of Smyrna, 
who has likewise written on the Trojan war. This 

' Strabo, p. 554. 



90 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

person indeed tells us, in an address to the Muses, 
that he had been inspired by them with his whole 
song before the down covered his cheeks, while he 
fed sheep in the territory of Smyrna, by the temple 
of Diana, on a mountain of a middling height, three 
times as far from the Hermus as a man, when he 
hollows, can be heard. His work, containing a se- 
quel to the Iliad, in fourteen books, was found by 
cardinal Bessarion in the church of SU Nicholas, 
near Hydrus, a city of Magna Graecia, and by him 
communicated to the learned. The name of Quin^ 
tus, perhaps the owner, was inscribed on the manu- 
script ; and the author has been since called by it, 
with the addition of Smymaeus or Calaber. He ap- 
pears to have been well acquainted with the country 
in which he lived, and has left some valuable de- 
scriptions of its antiquities and natural curiosities. 

The bed of the river Meles, behind the castle, is 
crossed by a lofty aqueduct, which, when we saw it, 
had been recently repaired, and then supplied the 
fountains in Smyrna. Higher up is one larger, but 
ruinous ; and near this is a remnant of an ancient 
paved causey, which led over the hills from Smyrna 
toward Ephesus and Colophon. The stones are 
smooth, broad, and massive. By the aqueduct are 
several petrifications, and one, of which an aged 
tree was the mould. The wood has perished, but 
the large hollow trunk, which incrusted it, is stand- 
ing. The Meles rises above the aqueducts, out of a 
dry course, deep-worn by torrents from the moun- 
tains. 

The Smymeans were extremely jealous of their 
property in Homer. They distinguished a brass 
coin or medal by his name ; and an Homerium, his 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 91 

temple and image surrounded with a quadrangular 
stoa or portico, stood in the new city. They like- 
wiseshewed a cave, by the sources of the Meles, 
where they said he had composed verses. I searched 
for this, and in the bank above the aqueduct, on the 
left hand, discovered a cavern, about four feet wide, 
the roof a huge rock, cracked and slanting, the 
sides and bottom sandy. The mouth, at which I 
crept in, is low and narrow; but there is another 
avenue, wider and higher, about three feet from the 
ground, and almost concealed with brambles. It 
may be entered also from above, where the earth 
has fallen in. Beyond it we found a passage cut, 
leading into a kind of well, in which was a small 
channel, designed to convey water to the aqueduct. 
This was dry, but near it was a current with a like 
aperture. 

The river-god Meles is represented on medals 
leaning on an urn with a cornucopia in his hand, 
to 'signify that he dispensed fertility; or bearing a 
lyre, as a friend to the Muses. He has been much 
extolled by the ancient poets, and raised, from his 
supposed connexion with Homer, to a kind of pre- 
eminence among the river deities. A sophist^, al- 
luding to epithets bestowed by Homer, says of the 
Meles, that, boasting such a son, he needed not 
envy the siher»t)ortexes of one river ; or another, 
his smoothness ; a third, that he is termed divine ; 
or a fourth, beautiful; Xanthus, or Scamander, the 
river near Troy, his descent from Jupiter ; nor the 
ocean, that he is stiled their general parent. 

^ See Philostratus. 



92 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. XXI. 

THE GULF OF SMYRNA — MENIMBN — ^THK RIVBR HBRMUS 
— THB STRAIT — ^fHB SHOALS ^THE PLAIN OF THE HBR- 
MUS— THE MOUTH— OF LBUCE — THE EXTREMITY OF THE 
PLAIN — OF PHOCJEA — FUTURE CHANGES TO BE EXPECTED. 

The gulf of Smyrna, which *has been computed 
about ten leagues long, is sheltered by hills, and af- 
fords secure anchorage. The mouth of the Hermus 
is on the north side, within two leagues and a half 
of the city. The mountain, which bounds the bay 
of old Smyrna on the north, extends westward to a 
level plain, in which the river runs. This, with the 
Maeander, was anciently famous for a fish called gla- 
nis, and for mullet : which came up from the sea in 
great numbers, particularly in spring. 

The fertility of the soil by the river, and the 
plenty of water for the uses of gardening and agri- 
culture, with other advantages, has occasioned the 
settling of numerous villages on that side of the 
gulf. Menomen, or, as it is commonly called, Me- 
nimen, is the principal, and supplies Smyrna with 
fruits, fish, and provisions, boats passing to and fro 
without intermission. Near the scale or landing- 
place, which is three hours distant, is a large quan- 
tity of low land, bare, or covered only vidth shallow 
water. This tract is the site of a considerable fish- 
ery ; being enclosed by reed fences with gates or 
avenues, which are shut up to prevent the shoals 
from retreating, when they have once entered. We 
saw on the beach many camels laden, or standing 
by their burdens ; and met on the road some travel- 
lers from Arabia and other countries, going to, or 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 93 

returning from, Constantinople. The hills were en- 
livened by flocks of. sheep and goats, and resounded 
with the rude music of the lyre and of the pipe ; 
the former a stringed instrument resembling a gui*^ 
tar, and hdid much in the same manner, but usually 
played on with a bow. We were then engaged 
with some of our countrymen in a shooting party, 
and in traversing the mountains I had a distinct 
view of Menimen. It is situated on a rising ground 
by the Hermus, and appeared as a considerable 
place, with old castles. I have sometimes suspected 
it to have been anciently called Neontichos ; but 
these parts, with the whole country of iEolia, still 
remain unexplored. 

The Hermus, which in the winter had spread a 
wide flood, now, after passing Menimen, pursued 
its way to the sea, through low grounds, in some 
places still under water. The stream was not wide, 
but full ; winding toward the mouth, by which the 
soil appeared bare, and as mud undried. In sum- 
mer it has a bar at the entrance, and is often shal- 
low; and some of the shoals marked in the map 
are then dry. The plain had many channels formed 
by torrents from the mountains. 

Near the mouth of the river is a sand-bank or 
shoal. The channel there is very narrow^ the land 
on the opposite side running out, and forming a low 
point, on which is a fortress erected, to sepure the 
approach to the city, soon after the battle of the 
Dardanelles in 1656, when the Venetians defeated 
the fleet of Mahomet the Fourth. It is called San* 
giac castle, because the grand signior's colours are 
on some occasions hoisted there. 

Besides the visible accession of land by the Her-^ 



94 TEAT£LS IN ASIA MINOB. 

mus, and on the mai^n of the gulf, several banks 
lie concealed beneath the water, on either hand, 
sailing up to Smyrna. The principal one next the 
river, it is said, was formerly a dry and green flat, 
which suddenly sunk after an earthquake ; probably 
that which happened in 1739» and was so great as 
to occasion a general terror : many families, from 
apprehension, abandoning their houses after it, and 
sleeping all the summer in huts in their gardens 
and court-yards. Ships often go upon it, without 
much danger, and are soon afloat again, if the wind 
set in. The end is driven out in an elbow toward 
the Sangiac castle by a strong current from the bay 
of old Smyrna ; but the head is firmly fixed, and it 
will gradually re-emerge, and become dry and green 
as before. I have sailed often by shoals on the 
same side as the castle, in the way to the olive- 
groves, which, I was told, had risen above the sur- 
face of the sea, within a few years. On one or two 
of them was a hut belonging to some poor fisher- 
men. 

The beautiful and extensive plains, which were 
of old regarded as peculiar to the country, have 
been justly stUed the offspring of its rivers. The 
Hermus, the Cayster, and the Maeander, were each 
noted for producing new land ; and had each a dis- 
trict, aptly called by its name, as by that of the pa- 
rent. 

The mouth of the Hermus has been continually 
shifting and changing place, in consequence of the 
encroachments made on the sea. Hence Pliny 
writes, " The town of Temnos has been, but the 
" rocks within the extremity of the gulf, called 
^^ Myrmeces, the Pismires^ now are, at the mouth 



TRAVELS IN ASIA llf INOB. 95 

** of the Hermus." It is at present much nearer to 
Smjma than appears in the maps in general, and 
perhaps than it was a few centuries ago. 

The same author mentions, that Leuce, then a 
promontory in the Sm3rrnean gulf, had once been 
an island. This spot had on it a small town of the 
same name, founded in the second year of the nine- 
ty-ninth Olympiad, by Tachos, a Persian malecon- 
tent, who died soon after. The people of Cyme 
and of Clazomene contended for it, and agreed to 
submit their cause to the decision of the oracle at 
Delphi ; when the Pythia gave Leuce to the claim- 
ant which should first sacrifice there in the temple ^ 
of Apollo. The Clazomenians were the more re- 
mote, but by their management obtained the place. 
Aristonicus, an illegitimate son of king Eumenes, 
got possession of it on the death of Attains Philo- 
metor. The Roman consul, Crassus, was sent against 
him, and was killed fighting near it. 

It happened that our passage up and down the 
gulf was in the night; but when we sailed from 
Smyrna, the inbat met us near the entrance, and 
we steered our boat into a small creek on the north 
side, below the Hermus, and an hour from Phoggia, 
or Phocaea. We had there a view of the extremity 
of the plain, which is wide, low, and level, encir- 
cling the rocks once called the Myrmeces, and a 
small mountain or hill with a smooth top. This, it 
is believed, was the island and promontory Leuce. 
A long spit now runs from it out into the sea. 

On the coast, after Leuce, was anciently Phocaea, 
situated in a bay ; the city oblong, the wall enclos- 
ing a space of two miles and five hundred paces, the 
sides then meeting, and forming as it were a wedge, 



96 TUAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

whidi they called Lamptera, where it was one mile 
and two hundred paces wide. A tongue of land 
then running a mile out into the 8ea» and dividing 
the bay about the middle, formed two secure ports, 
one on each side of the isthmus; that toward the 
south called Naustathmos; the other, which was 
near, Lamptera. The present town^ is seated on 
the tongue, within the isthmus, and the ancient site 
is called Patea-Pho^a, or Old Phoctea. It has on 
the north -four islets, one named St George^ Ijring 
before the harbour. Beyond Phocaea were the boun- 
daries of Ionia and .^olia, less than two hundred 
stadia, or twenty-five miles, from Smyrna. 

The river Hermus, by its influence on the gulf, 
has already effected great changes, and will gradu- 
ally accomplish some signal alterations, of which the 
progress deserves to be accurately marked. The 
flats before Smyrna will mutually approach; and, 
leaving only a narrow ingress, the city be on a 
lake. This will be fed by the Meles, and by tor- 
rents, and in time become fresh. The plague of 
gnats will then, if possible, be multiplied at Smyrna. 
The land will continue to increase ™, until it is in a 
Ime with the mouth of the gulf, when the site of 
Clazomene and the islets within Kara-bomu will 
be encompassed with soil ; and, if no current inter- 
vene, Phocaea will be deprived of its harbour. The 
sea within the gulf will by degrees give place to a 
noble plain created and watered by the Hermus. 

' See views in Le Brun, p. 166. 

"^ Whatever accession of land time may produce, the Hermus, 
Meles, and other waters which run into the bay> will probably 
always force a way through, and leave a communication with the 
sea sufficient for ships of lai^e burden. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 97 

Commerce will have then removed to sopie more 
commodious mart, and Smyrna be, if not utterly de^ 
serted, desolate and forlorn.. 



CHAR XXII. 

OUE FIRHMAN — FIRST JOURNEY FROM SMYRNA — A TEN- 

DOUR — MILDNESS OF THE WINTER AT SMYRNA RETURN 

OF THE CRANES ^WE PREPARE FOR ANOTHER JOURNEY 

RUMOUR OF THE FLAGUB — CONFIRMED— OUR EMBAR- 
RASSMENT—OUR SECOND JOURNEY METHOD. 

On our return to Smyrna, in the evening of the 
18th of September, from a small excursion with a 
party of our countrymen, we were agreeably sur- 
prised to find the Anglicana arrived in the bay from 
Constantinople. The captain brought with him a 
firhman, or travelling command, obtained for us 
from the Porte by the English ambassador. This 
instrument enjoined all the governors, the judges, 
the officers of the janizaries and of the revenue, to 
whom we should present it, not to molest us or our 
European servants, on any pretence, nor to exact 
tribute from us, but to protect and defend us, and 
permit us to prosecute our journeys without obstruc- 
tion, as they respected the imperial signature. It 
was dated about the middle of the moon Rebiulev- 
vel, in the year of the Hegira 1178 ; or of Septem- 
ber, 1764. 

A small portion of the year yet remained not un- 
fit for travelling. Finding our English bedding too 
cumbersome, we purchased thin mattresses stuffed 
with cotton, some tin kettles, plates, and other like 
necessaries ; and hired a janizary, with two grooms 

CHANDLER, ASIA M.- H 



98 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and a cook, Armenians. One horse earned our 
baggage. We set out on the SOth of September, 
and were absent until the 29th of October. The 
weather, which had favoured us, then became rainy 
and bad, but soon changed again to mild and agree- 
able. 

The happy temperature of the climate of Ionia in 
general has been much celebrated by the ancients. 
At Smyrna, the houses, except those erected by the 
Europeans, have seldom chimneys or fireplaces in 
the rooms. In cold weather it is usual to place a 
paa of charcoal beneath a table, over which a car- 
pet or handsome counterpane is spread, the sides 
reaching to the floor. This is called a tendour. 
The family sit round, warming their legs and hands 
under the cover. 

As winter advanced, the sky, which in summer 
is most remarkably dear and serene, varied; and 
we had alternately sunshine and rain. Southerly 
winds chiefly prevailed, bringing clouds on the 
mountains, from which proceeded thunder and light- 
ning. The showers renew the verdure, which in 
the middle of Decemt)er was as fine as I ever saw, 
with marigolds and anemonies springing spontane- 
ously fropa the turf beneath the olive-trees in great 
profusion. At the same time thickets of myrtle in 
blossom adorned the waste ; and in the gardens the 
golden fruit glittered among the deep-green leaves 
of the orange-trees. The southerly quarter is warm 
as well as wet ; but the flowers which it produces 
instantly droop and wither before the northerly and 
easterly winds. These in summer are hot, coming 
over parched plains and naked mountains exposed 
to the sun ; but at this season are extremely bleak 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 99 

and penetrating, and bring snow on the distant 
hills ; that or sleet rarely falling in the champaign 
country or valleys. The north-east is often attended 
with heavy rain, without thunder. In the coldest 
day we felt, our thermometer was at forty-nine; 
but in December the sun at times was powerful, 
and the air sultry: and once in that month, the 
same thermometer rose lo eighty in the shade. We 
had plenty of daffodils and hyacinths. Early in 
February the almond-trees blossomed, and roses and 
carnations were common, and sold about the streets. 
Upon the whole, we enjoyed, except some few in- 
tervals, an azure sky, with exquisite softness, such 
as cannot be described. 

A company of cranes, returning from their winter 
quarters^ flew in orderly array over 8m3rma, on the 
ninth of March, northward. Another soon followed, 
and then many ; some by day, when they are seen 
changing their figure and leader ; some by moon- 
light, when they are heard, high in air, repeating 
their noisy signals. At the same time the bees 
were obseryed to be in motion. These were re- 
garded as sure signs that winter was at an end, and 
as foretelling settled weather. 

I had begun early to prepare for another joiirney, 
and studied to remove, or remedy, as far as possible, 
the inconveniences we had before experienced, by 
providing a tent, and increasing the number of our 
attendants and horses. It was thought proper not 
to move untU the Ramazan or Lent of the Turks, 
during which they are often sour and churlish, was 
over ; and the general change or re-appointment of 
the governors, which is made in March, had taken 
place. 

H 2 



100 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

A rumour, that the plague had appeared in 
Smjrma, was current, but not credited ; it often 
happening that such stories are propagated to serve 
a private piurpose, or to distress the trade of a rival 
£actory. It was now again asserted, that a person 
was ill or dead of the dkease ; and an English ship 
left the bay only half laden. 

We had agreed, on the 13th of March, to leave 
Smyrna on the 21st, On the 18th we were in- 
formed, that our janizary was unwilling to go then ; 
bairam, or the Turkish holydays, beginning the next 
day ; but was ready to set out with us either before 
or two days after. We then fixed on the 25th. 
Between the 17th and 20th we were assured that 
four or five persons more had been attacked by the 
plague, imported, it was said, from Musconisi or 
from Tino, in which islands and in Sdo, it was well 
known, the distemper had resided for some time. 
These accidents disconcerted us exceedingly, and 
seemed to threaten a final period to our expedition. 

It may be imagined that during our abode with 
the consul, the plague had been a frequent topic of 
our conversation. We were told, this season seldom 
passed without some appearance of it; that often 
the malady did not spread, or was partial, and of 
short duration ; that it was communicated only by 
contact with some person or thing infected; and 
that the Franks, who are accounted less liable to 
receive it than the people of the covntry, continue, 
unless it be very general, their business and recrea- 
tions as usual : but on the other hand, the approach- 
ing holydays, both of the Turks and Christians, made 
it not improbable that the contagion would be car- 
ried to and fro, and that it would soon extend over 



TEAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. 101 

the whole city and its vicinity. We had before us 
personal danger, and the apprehension of a tedious 
and disagreeable confinement, not without its perils, 
if we remained at Smyrna or in Asia. In such 
situations as these, even extreme timidity scarcely 
deserves censure. Among other expedients, it was 
proposed to pursue the general plan of our voyage 
by crossing over to Athens, and returning in au- 
tumn, when the plague should have ceased; but 
this measure too had its risks and inconveniendes : 
and at length, as the places suspected were only 
Smyrna and Pergamo, after due deliberation, we 
resolved to proceed on our intended journey. 

We quitted the consul's house on Monday, the 
25th of March, O. S. 1765, attended by a Swiss, 
and some Armenian servants, with a mule and 
horses carrying provision-chests, utensils for cook- 
ing, our tent, bedding, and other requisites ; all to- 
gether forming a very motley caravan or procession, 
headed by a janizary. The Frank families had then 
shut up, as it is termed, or had retired into the 
country, for security from the infection. We did 
not return to Smyrna until the 8th of August. 

Some occurrences, which will be related, madle it 
prudent to contract this journey within a much nar- 
rower outline than was . previously designed. The 
former falling in with it, and both together com- 
pleting our survey of these parts, as far as we found 
practicable, we shall unite them in our narrative ; 
this method enabling us to follow nearly the course 
of the country : beginning with the latter, which 
was the most extensive, and marking their mutual 
coincidence, with the different seasons in which 
they were performed. 

h3 



102 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. XXIII. 

8BACOAST OF IONIA — ^VOURLA RBPUTBD CLAZOMBNB — THB 

OLIVE-GROVES— VESTIGES OF AN ANCIENT BRIDGE THJB 

AGAMEMNONIAN HOT BATHS — THEIR PRESENT STATE 

ISTHMUS OF THE PENINSULA — THB DIKE CUT BT ALEX- 
ANDER — ^VILLAGES — THB TOWN OF VOURLA. 

The seacoast of Ionia extended fix)m Phocaea and 
the Hermus, southward to Posidium, a promontory 
of the Milesians^ and to the Carian mountains. The 
shape was irregular, it aboundini; in bays and pen- 
ini The dtie^ were aU originaUy maritime ; 
their number on the continent ten, besides Smyrna ; 
their situation as uncommonly fine as their climate. 
It has been said of this region, that it boasted tem- 
ples, such as were possessed by no other country, 
and many wonders hardly exceeded even in Hellas, 
or Greece. 

The city of Ionia next to Smyrna was Clazo- 
mene. As this place was within the gulf, on the 
south side, and the distance anciently reckoned only 
twelve miles, we supposed the site known to the 
people of Smyrna, and the modem name to be, as 
they informed us, Vourla. We resolved therefore 
to begin our second journey with that town, distant 
by computation six hours ; hoping, if the plague did 
not cea^e at Smyrna during our absence, we might 
at least escape its fury ; and expecting to obtain se- 
curity and satisfaction, in proportion as we removed 
from the seat of infection, and of its sure concomi- 
tant, mortality. 

We set out from Smyrna at eight in the morn- 
ing, on the 25th of March, and passing through the 



TBAVEL8 IN ASIA MINOB. 108 

lower portion of the city, crossed the mouth of the 
dry port, to a road between the burying-grounds on 
the hill and the sea. There, on the right hand, 
near the end of the grav^, may be seen a piece of 
tessellated pavement running under the bank. After 
going over a bare cra^y ridge, we turned westward 
into a wood of olives, in which we remarked many 
trees with huge knotty trunks, indicating extreme 
old age. The green level was enamelled with ane- 
monies and otl\er beautiful flowers. The sky was 
clear and serene, and the breeze gentle, and deU- 
ciously soft. The Europeans resort to these groves 
on shooting parties in boats from the town, or with 
their fkmilies for pleasure, and the benefit of the 
air. 

We came now to a shallow river, over which is a 
lofty bridge, intended to secure a passage to the 
traveller, when torrents descend from the adjacent 
mountain, formerly called Corax. On this princi- 
pally the clouds seen from Smyrna reside, when the 
wind is southerly. Nearer the foot are vestiges of 
an ancient bridge, of which the piers were rebuilt, 
or repaired, before its final ruin ; and in one of 
them is a maimed Corinthian capitaL I once pur« 
sued the stream a considerable way into the moun- 
tain. It flowed rapid and transparent over the 
rough solid rock, its course deep sunk between 
shaggy summits, whose sides are almost perpendi* 
cular, and inaccessible even to goats; a crowded 
flock then browsing below. We met, besides these 
and their keepers, a peasant or two by a little over* 
shot miU, the wretched tenants of this solemn and 
striking recess. 

Some fragments of architecture in the Turkish 

H 4 



104 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

r 

burying^^rounds not fiur from hence, it is likdy, be- 
longed, with the relic above mentioned, to the tem- 
ple of Apollo, once seated on the western bank of 
this stream, by the hot baths °. These have been 
computed forty stadia, or five miles from the city, 
and were called the Agamemnonian^ by the people 
of Smyrna. It is related, that the army under Aga- 
memnon ravaging Mysia, was engaged by Telephus 
near the river Caicus; that many of the Greeks 
were wounded in the battle ; that an oracle directed 
them for a cure to these waters : and that here the 
helmets taken from the enemy were suspended^. 
The old remains of the buildings are of brick, the 
masonry good, but soil and rubbish have risen to 
the imposts of the arches, which are closed. 

You descend by steps to the bath, which is under 
a modem vaulted roof, with vents in it for the 
steam; and adjoining to this is a like room now 
disused. The current, which is soft and limpid, is 
conveyed into a small round basin of marble, and 
runs over into a large cistern or reservoir beneath. 
Our thermometer rose in the vein to one hundred 
and fifty. Near it is a duct, which supplies a cold 
stream; but in January, when I saw it, was dry. 
A quantity of coagulated blood lay on the pave- 
ment. I was informed a sheep had been killed 
above, and that substance used instead of soap in 
shaving, which operation is often performed in the 
baths. The warm rill emerges in two or more 
places in the bed of the river, and in cool weather 
may easily be discovered, a thick mist rising from 
it, visible afar off. 

" Strabo, p. 645. ^ Philostratus, p. 664. 



TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOB. 105 

After passing the river and Sangiac castle, we 
came to the seaside, and to a coffee-hut, at which 
we alighted, and tarried twenty minutes. At one 
we opened the isthmus, or neck of the peninsula, 
the southern boundary of the gulf. The Clazome- 
nians anciently inhabited, on the north side, border- 
ing on the Erythreans, who were within it. The 
Teians were on the south, with a port north of their 
city. Hitherto our course westward had been chiefly 
beneath the northern termination of mount Corax. 

The isthmus appears as a wide pleasant valley, 
and the land being mostly level, we could discern 
across it the blue tops of the island Samos. Its 
width P was reckoned fifty stadia, or six mUes and a 
quarter; and the periplus or circumnavigation of 
the peninsula, a thousand stadia, or one hundred 
and twenty-five miles. The distance of Smyrna 
from Ephesus, in a straight line, was only three 
hundred and twenty stadia, or forty miles ; but if 
you coasted, near two thousand two hundred stadia, 
or two hundred and seventy-five miles ; owing prin- 
cipally to this peninsula. Alexander the Great, to 
render the communication easier, ordered, that a 
navigable cut should be made through the plain 
here, intending to join the two bays, and by con- 
verting the whole cherronese into an island, to sur- 
round the city Ery thrae and mount Mimas with the 
sea. A dike, or canal, running up the valley, is a 
monument of that attempt, which failed, when the 
workmen came to the rock. We passed it over a 
bar of sand at the mouth. The inbat blowing fresh, 
and the waves dashing over, two of our horses 

p In Pliny, seven miles and a half. 



106 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 



started aside, floandered deep, and wetted our bag- 
gage. A like accident in fording another water af- 
terwards occasioned some delay. 

We continued our joumej along the shore. The 
hills on our left were covered with low shrubs, and 
villages, some of a clean dry aspect, and several not 
immediately discernible, though near, the mud-built 
cottages being exactly of the same colour with the 
soil. As we approached Vourla, the little valleys 
were all green with com, or filled with naked vine- 
stocks in orderly arrangement, about a foot and a 
half high. The people were working, many in a 
row, turning the earth, or encircling the trunks with 
tar, to secure the buds from grubs and worms. The 
shoots, which bear the fruit, are cut down again in 
winter. We saw another species, which produces 
very large grapes, running up and spreading on the 
branches of trees planted for their support. A mart 
like Smyrna diffuses cultivation through all its vici- 
nity. 

Vourla is distinguished at a distance by its nu- 
merous windmills. On entering the town we saw 
nobody, the houses were shut up, and a silence and 
solitude prevailed, which, before we recollected what 
we had lately seen, suggested to us the terrible idea, 
that the inhabitants had left it, to avoid the cruel 
distemper from which we also were flying. It is a 
place of considerable extent, the buildings dispersed 
on eminences, with a pleasant plain toward the sea. 
The water and air are reputed good. The Turks 
have seven mosques, and the Greeks two churches. 
At one of these is a small bass-relief, representing a 
funereal supper, with a short inscription % Another 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 6. 



TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 107 

is fixed in the wall over a fountain* We were re- 
commended by letter to an Italian, a practitioner in 
physic, who attended us about the town, and shewed 
us every civility in his power. A cursory view of 
this place was sufficient to convince us, that it did 
not stand on the site of Clazomene. 



CHAP. XXIV. 

WE SEARCH FOR CLAZOMENE — DISCOVER THE MOLE — PASS 

OVER THE SITE — ISLETS WE REPASS ORIGIN OF 

VOURLA. 

We were assisted by the friendly Italian in our 
inquiries for a ruined city in that neighbourhood; 
and in the evening procured a man to conduct us, 
as we supposed, to the site of Clazomene. We set 
out early in the morning, when he carried us back 
to the opening of the isthmus, and shewed us, for 
Clazomene, a piece of ordinary wall, which has en- 
closed a cistern on the top of a hill, with some scat- 
tered rubbish on the slope. There, it is likely, was 
anciently the settlement of the Chalcidensians, pro- 
bably a colony from Chalcis in Euboea, belonging to 
Clazomene. Above them was a grove sacred to 
Alexander the Great, where the games called Alex- 
andrea were celebrated by the Ionian body. 

Finding our guide ignorant, and at a loss which 
way to go, we adopted the surer direction of ancient 
history ; remembering, that the Clazomenians, to be 
more secure from the Persians, had settled in an 
island, which, by command of Alexander, was after- 
wards changed into a peninsula by the addition of 
a mole. We crossed the plain of Vourla, slanting 
toward the sea, and soon discovered this monument 



108 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

also of that great mind, which delighted in correct- 
ing or subduing nature by filling up or forming 
paths for the deep; which here still bore visible 
marks of his royal pleasure, and now raged, as it 
were indignant, but in vain, against the barrier 
which he had appointed. 

The mole was two stadia, or a quarter of a mile 
in length, but we were ten minutes in crossing ' it, 
the waves, which were impelled by a strong inbat, 
breaking over in a very formidable manner, as high 
as the bellies of our horses. The width, as we con- 
jectured, was about thirty feet. On the west side 
it is fronted with a thick strong wall, some pieces 
appearing above the water. On the opposite is a 
mound of loose pebbles, shelving as a buttress, to 
withstand the flirious assaults of storm and tempest. 
The upper works have been demcdished, and the ma- 
terials, a few large rough stones excepted, removed. 

We computed the island to be about a mile long, 
and a quarter broad. The city was small, its port 
on thie N. N. W. side \ Traces of the walls are 
found by the sea; and in a hill are vestiges of a 
theatre. Three or four trees grow on it, and by 
one is a cave^ hewn in the rock, and affording 
water. The soil was now covered with green com. 

' Passing over. R. 

" South side, enclosed with a mole. R. 

^ A cave is mentioned by Pausanias, p. 2 1 1 . It is thus de- 
scribed by Randolph : " Nothing remains but the cave, which is 
" cut out of firm rock, almost square, supported with four pil- 
" lars of the same rock. To the eastward is part of an altar, and 
*• in the middle is a well, but the water is brackish, and not fit to 
" be drank." State of the Islands in the Archipelago, 1 687. 

^ Room, the sides ornamented with niches, probably a sepul- 
chre. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 109 

A vaulted room, with a chimney at one end, and a 
hovel or two made with stones piled, are all the 
present structures ; and these are chiefly frequented 
by fishermen, and by persons employed to watch 
and to drive away birds when the grain ripens. 
Referring to this confined situation of Clazomene, 
a famous sophist, when importuned to adorn his na- 
tive city by residing in it, rather than at Smyrna, 
replied, ** The nightingale reftises to sing in a cage." 

By Clazomene is a cluster of islets '*, all once cul- 
tivated, now neglected and barren. Their number 
was eight, but I could count only six. One is called 
Long Island, and by some the English Island, be- 
caus^^ as they relate, a party of our countrymen 
from Smyrna, landing on it for their diversion, were 
attacked suddenly, and murdered there by banditti 
or pirates. Some of these islets, and perhaps even of 
the (Enussae without the gulf, may owe their ori- 
gin or increase to the river Hermus. 

After making the circuit of the island, we sat 
down by the isthmus to dine, when our attention 
was engaged by a large company landed at the scale 
or road of Vourla, which is westward from the mole, 
and had in it some small-craft, with a few houses 
and a mosque on the shore. An irregular discharge 
of guns and pistols followed, in compliment, as our 
guide told us, to the new aga or governor, who was 
then arrived. In the mean time the inbat increased 

*> Three of them were called Marathusa, Pele, Drymusa. It is 
probable the names of all of them are contained in a passage of 
Pliny, lib. v. c. 37. 

^ These islets are formed by rocks rising out of the se^ on the 
opposite side of the bay to the Hermus, too far distant to be af- 
fected by it. R. 



110 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

very fast, as usual toward sunset, and with it the 
swell of the sea. We b^an to wish that we had 
repassed the mole, as soon as our curiosity was gra- 
tified ; and to apprehend, that, without a speedy re- 
moval, we might be detained much longer on this 
deserted spot than we should like. Our horses were 
shy of the surf, and one of our company, inclining 
too much to the left to avoid it, got into deep water, 
but soon recovered the track. 

Among the causes which have cooperated in 
bringing on the general desolation of these coasts, 
may be numbered the outrages suffered from licen- 
tious pirates, under a weak or bad government, and 
the hostilities committed by privateers. The former 
have in all ages infested these seas ; encouraged by 
the frequent creeks and portlets, where they may 
lie unnoticed, looking out for their prey from emi- 
nences, which command extensive views of the ca- 
nals between the islands ; or ready, on the approach 
of a superior force, to abandon their vessels, and 
escape to the mountains. The Clazomenians, mo- 
lested, it is said, by corsairs of Tino, retired from 
the sea to the continent, where they were less liable 
to be surprised. Many other places owe their ori- 
gin to the same motives of apprehension and pru- 
dence as Vourla. 



CHAP. XXV. 

OF THB KARA-BORNIOTBS — MOUNT MIMAS — ^NIGHT — ^ARRIVE 
AT ERYTHRJB— THE SITE ^ISLETS REMAINS. 

Beyqnd Clazomene the peninsula, becoming very 
mountainous, with narrow and difficult passes, af- 
fords many places of refuge, inaccessible, or easily 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. Ill 

defended. Hence the Kara-bomiotes, or inhabitants 
of the southern cape of the gulf, were long in&mous 
as pirates and robbers, and had the general charac<* 
ter of a very bad people. We were now told, that 
their manners were changed, and their disposition 
less ferocious and inhunofan ; that they attend to the 
culture of the vine and the management of the silk« 
worm^ and frequent the market of Smyrna with the 
produce. We thought it prudent^ however, to in- 
crease our guard, and hire another janizary, intend- 
ing to go to Erythrae, now corruptly called Ritre, 
and reckoned eight hours distant. 

We set out from Vourla early in the morning, 
and in an hour, after crossing a small promontory, 
came to the bottom of a deep bay, which, with an 
island in it, is almost land-locked, lying immediately 
within the cape^. We then ascended a ridge of 
mount Mimas y ; and, passing a stream, entered on 
a rugged narrow track between very lofty cUffs, and 
by t^side of a water-course frightfully steep. We 
were engaged in this strait four hours, our baggage^ 
horses fSg, or being jammed with their ^fd^s. 
where the rocks projected. At length we arrived 
in view of a plain, deep sunk among the hills which 
surround it. Before us was a gray ridge ^ seen at 
Smyrna ; and a little on the left, a top of the island 
Sdo; behind us were the two white conical sum- 
mits of mount Corax, called The Brothers^ which 
serve as a sea-direction in navigating the gulf. We 
descended to Cerhardam, a Turkish village, where 

* Several miles within the cape Karavouno. R. 
y Q. if extended thus far. R. 

■ Mimas, now Karavouno. which forms the cape at the south 
side of the bay of Smyrna. R. 



112 TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

we alighted about three^ in the afternoon* We had 
proposed passing the night here, as our men and 
horses were weary, but could get neither lodging 
nor com. 

After dining beneath a tree, we continued our 
journey across a ridge to Cadoagi, a small place near 
an hour farther on. Here we had our tent pitched, 
for the first time, within an enclosure, by a cottage, 
and slept in it. Our bedding was a small carpet, 
mattress, and coverlet. Each had by his side a gun, 
sword, and a pair of loaded pistols. The Swiss 
guarded the mouth of the tent. The nights were 
as yet cold, and our janizary was provided with a 
cloak of a dark colour, shaggy, and very thick, made 
without a seam, with a cape, or rather cowl, for his 
head. Wrapped in this, he lay down, like Diomed 
in his buU-skin, in the open air, with his pistol and 
sabre by him, and his gun in his hand. Our other 
attendants were likewise dispersed, mostly on the 
ground, round about the tent, armed as by day; 
and one of the Armenians watched the horses, which 
were fastened to stakes with their saddles on. 

At the dawn of day we rose, and a tablecloth 
was spread on the ground, when we break&sted oh 
dried figs, bread, butter, which we carried with us, 
and garlick ; drinking wine or water, and a cup of 
coffee. In the mean time our men struck the tent, 
and got ready our baggage. The sun only began 
to appear on the mountain-top, and a low shining 
mist, like water, concealed the valley beneath us 
when we began our journey ^ ; travelling over and 

» Two. R. 

^ Set out twenty minutes past syc, arrived at the ruined wall 
at eight, and at Erythrea at nine. R. 



TRATEL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 118 

between the wild ridges of mount Mimas ^. In two 
hours we came to a vale» well watered, and stored 
with myrtles and evergreens. Here we observed 
some pieces of an ancient wall, which had been 
erected across it ; and, after passing the ruin of a 
mosque, which has a sepulchral inscription fixed over 
the doorway, an opening afforded us a view of the 
site of Erythrae, of the sea, and of the island Scio. 
We entered at a gap in the ruins of the city wall, 
where we supposed a gateway to have been ; and 
finding no shade, pitched our tent on a green spot, 
extending it as a wide umbrella to shelter us from 
the sun, then shining exceedingly bright and power-- 
ful. 

The walls of Erythrss were erected on two semi-- 
drcular rocky l»rows, and had square towers at re- 
gular distances. They were very thick, the stones 
massive and rugged, the masonry that called p^eudi- 
9odomum. In the middle is a shallow, lively stream, 
dear as crystal, which turns a solitary mill in its 
way through thickets of myrtle and bushes to the 
sea. This rivulet was andently named Aleos, and 
was remarkable for produdng hair on the bodies of 
those who drank of it ^. Near the mouth is a piece 
of ordinary Mosaic pavement. By a conical hill on 
the north are vestiges of an ample theatre in the 
mountain-side; and farther on, by the sea, three 
pedestals of white marble. Beyond these is an old 
square fortress standing on a low spot, a little in- 
land ; and by it was a short sepulchral inscription. 
We searched in vain for a temple of Hercules, which 
has been mentioned as one of the highest antiquity, 

^ Perhaps Corycus. R. ** Pliny, lib. xxxi. 10., 

CHANDCER, ASIA M. I 



114 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and as resembling the temples of Egypt. The god 
was represented on a float, on which they related 
that he arrived at Erythrae from Phoenicia ^. 

Before the port of Erythrae are four islets, once 
called Hippi, 7%e Horses; and beyond these are 
the Spalmadore islands, by which we sailed in our 
stormy passage from Sdo to Kara-bomii. A pro- 
montory of mount Mimas, beyond Erythrae, was 
named Cor]ma ; and one near mid-way, sailing to- 
ward Scio, Hera Mesate. The shore winds, and 
forms several bays. 

Erythrae has been long deserted, and, like Clazo- 
mene, stripped even of its ruins, except some masses 
of hard cement, a few vaults of sepulchres, a frag^ 
ment of inscribed architrave, a broken column or 
two, and a large stone, on which is carved a round 
shield. The bare rock afforded a natural foundation 
for the houses and public edifices; and the mate- 
rials, when they were ruined, lay ready to be trans- 
ported to Sdo and other places, which continued to 
flourish. Some words were visible on one of the 
pedestals. We would have cleared them all firom 
weeds and rubbish, which concealed their inscrip- 
tions; but our guide had afiSirmed that we could 
not pass the night here without danger ; our horses 
were standing ready, and we had no time to spare. 

^ Pausanias, p. 210, 



THAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 115 

CHAP. XXVI. 

OF THE PENINSULA — CHISMB — MOUNT CORYCUS — MOUNT 

MIMAS ^ENi) OF THE PENINSULA — ^AT SEGIGECK ANTI- 

QUITIES CRANES. 

ERYTHR-aE was about midway in the periplus, or 
circumnavigation of the peninsula. It had to the 
north a village named Cybellia, and the cape, by 
which was a quarry dug for millstones. The lofty 
mountain to the south was called Corycus, and its 
promontory Argennum. This ran out toward Po- 
sidium, a promontory of Chios, from which it was 
separated by a strait, about sixty stadia, or seven 
miles and a half wide. In Corycus a cave was 
shewn, in which they said the sibyl Herophile was 
bom. Its coast had several ports, and was much 
infested by pirates and robbers. After Corycus was 
Gerae, a small town of the Teians by the port 
north of their city. The third tribe of the Ery- 
threans had its name from a region called Chaldtis, 
peopled with Chalcidensians ; and the sea*baths by 
a cape of that district were esteemed superior to 
any in Ionia. 

We had been told, that at Chisme, a town since 
noted for the destruction of the Turkish navy by 
the Russians, and distant about five hours from 
Erythrse, were spacious and handsome baths erected 
by the Genoese. We had intended seeing them, 
but were now informed that the place was almost 
abandoned, the plague having been carried thither 
from Scio. 

Our guide, at setting out, conducted us to the 
shore ; and, winding southward, we ascended a lofty 
ridge of mount Cbrycus, from which we had an ex- 

I 2 



116 TKAVKLS IN ASIA MINOR. 

tensive view of the coast, of the channel of Scio, 
and of the gulf of Smyrna. The brothers were 
before us, and behind us Chisme. The mountain 
was covered with low shrubs. We then descended 
to the station of some goatherds, guarded by several 
large and fierce dogs. In three hours and a half we 
came unexpectedly to the village on mount Mimas ^ 
where we lay the preceding night. 

The valley beneath us, and the ade of the moun- 
tain, were again enveloped in thick shining mist 
when we began our journey; and, keeping along 
the southern edge of a plain, reascended mount Mi* 
mas fl^, which the ancients have described as woody, 
and abounding in wild beasts. The slopes here were 
clothed with pines and shrubs, and garnished with 
flowers, many of a bright yellow, resembling small 
single pinks. The hogs ^ had rooted up the green 
corn in several places. At noon we came to the 
bay, which we passed in going to Erythrae ; and, 
striking off to the right, dismounted to dine under 
some shady trees by a copious fountain. We had 
suffered much from the sun, and were greatly fa- 
tigued. 

After enjoying awhile the luxury of cool water 
and shade, we continued our journey, leaving Vourla 
and the villages on our left hand. As we crossed 
the mountain, the island Samos rose to view at a 
distance, and we opened the sea on the south side 
of the peninsula. We passed many small pleasant 
spots, well watered, and green with com, or with 
myrtles and shrubs. We descended from mount Mi- 



^ Query Coricus. R. 8 Coricus. R. 

h^ Wild boars. R. 



TEAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. H7 

mas^ by a road cut in the rock^, which anciently 
divided the Brythrean territory from the Clazome- 
nian. Here the peninsula ends. The way from 
hence» or from the beginning of the isthmus on the 
south, to Clazomene, was over mount Mimas ^ to 
Chytrium, originally the site of that city, and now, 
it seems, of Vourla. 

We rode on, and after three hours arrived it Se- 
gigeck, which was before us, by the head of a shin- 
ing bay, land-locked, with an islet near the mouth. 
We were civilly received by a party of men and 
boys, who were gathered about the gate on our ap- 
proach, and directed to the interior fortress, which 
was much out of repair. Heiie we were lodged in 
an apartment over the gateway, belonging to the 
aga or governor, who was absent on a visit of cere- 
mony to a superior officer, attended by most of the 
garrison. Our horses, servants, and baggage, were 
disposed in the area or court below. 

Segigeck is a large square ordinary fortress, 
erected, it is said, by the Genoese, on a flat ; with 
a few brass cannon toward the sea* It was anciently 
called Gerae, was the port of the city Teos toward 
the north, and had been peopled with Chalciden- 
sians, who arrived under Geres. It encloses some 
mean mud-built houses. In the wall next the water 
are several inscribed marbles, the colour a blue-gray, 
transported from Teos. Another is fixed in a foun- 
tain without the south gate. In the hot bath are 
two large fragments placed upside down, and serv- 

' Coricus. R. 

^ Impressed with the ruts of the ancient cars. R. 
^ If Mimas extended thus far, Coricus vanished after two or 
three hours ride. R. 

i3 



118 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOft. 

ing for seats, which I examined, but hastily, fearing 
some infection, as the plague was known to be near. 
All these have been published by the learned Chis^ 
hull. By a mosque, and in the burying-grounds, 
are some scattered fragments, and a sepulchral in- 
scription or two™. This place is reckoned eight 
hours from Smyrna. A view of it is given in the 
Ionian Antiquities. 

« 

The cranes were now arrived at their respective 
quarters, and a couple had made their nest, which 
is bigger in circumference than a bushel, on a dome 
close by our chamber. This pair stood, side by side, 
with great gravity, shewing no concern at what was 
transacting beneath them, but at intervals twisting 
about their long necks, and clattering with their 
beaks turned behind them upon their backs, as it 
were in concert. This was continued the whole 
night. An owl, a bird also unmolested, was pierched 
hard by, and as frequently hooted. The crane is 
tall, like a heron, but much larger ; the body white, 
with black pinions, the neck and legs very long, the 
head small, and the bill thick. The Turks call it 
friend and brother, believing it has an affection for 
their nation, and will accompany them into the 
countries they shall conquer. In the course of our 
journey we saw one hopping on a wall with a single 
leg, the maimed stump wrapped in linen. 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 6. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 119 

CHAP. XXVII. 

SITUATION OF TEOS ^REMAINS THE PORT, &C. — THE TEM- 
PLE OF BACCHUS — ^TEOS DESERTED— A VENETIAN VESSEL. 

Segigeck stands oh the north side of the isthmus 
of a small rough peninsula, which extends westward, 
and terminates in a sharp low point. This perhaps 
was the cape once called Macria, by which were the 
baths of the Teians, some on the shore in a cavity 
of the rock, or natural, and some made by art, and 
from ostentation. Teos was thirty stadia, or threiie 
miles and three quarters, from Grerae, and fronted 
the sea on the south side. It was equidistant from 
Erythrae and Chios, sixty-one miles and a half from 
each by the coast. 

In the morning we crossed the isthmus to Teos, 
now called Bodrun. We found this city almost as 
desolate as Erythrae and Clazomene. The walls, of 
which traces are extant, were, as we guessed, about 
five miles in circuit ; the masoniy handsome. With-^ 
out them, by the way, are vaults of sepulchres strip- 
ped of their marble, as it were forerunners of more 
indistinct ruin. Instead of the stately piles, which 
once impressed ideas of opulence and grandeur, we 
saw a marsh, a field of barley in ear, buffaloes 
ploughing heavily by defaced heaps and prostrate 
edifices, high trees supporting aged vines, and fences 
of stones and rubbish, with illegible inscriptions, and 
time-worn fragments. It was with difficulty we dis- 
covered the temple of Bacchus; but a theatre in 
the side of the hill is more conspicuous. The vault 
only, on which the seats ranged, remains, with two 
broken pedestals in the area. It fronted 15 "\ west 

of south. 

i4 



laO TBATELS IK ASIA HIKOA. 

The city-port is partly dry, and sand-banks rise 
above the surface of the water. On the edge are 
vestiges of a wall, and before it are two small islets. 
On the left hand, or toward the continent, is a 
channel, which seemed artificial, the water not deep. 
I saw a boy wade across it. This, unless it be the 
mouth of a rivulet ^ was probably cut ; for it seems 
as necessary to the completion of Alexander's j^n, 
that a communication should have been made be- 
tween the sea here and the bay of Oerae, as between 
that and the gulf of Smjrma ; and it is remarkable 
that Pliily reckons Teos among the islands. Be* 
yond it, on the shore before Sevri-hissar, which 
stands inland, are four or five tall barrows. 

The heap of the temple of Bacchus, which was 
visible from the theatre, beneath, on the right hand, 
lay in the middle of a com field, and is overrun with 
bushes and olive-trees. It was one of the tnost ce- 
lebrated structures in Ionia. The remains of it have 
been engraved at the expense of the society of Di- 
lettanti, and published, with its history, in the Ionian 
Antiquities ; and a beautiful portico has since been 
erected at the seat of the right hon. lord le Despen- 
ser, near High Wycomb, under the inspection of 
Mr. Revett, in which the exact i»!oportions of the 
order are observed. 

The town has long been deserted. It has no 
ruins of churches, to prove it existed under the Greek 
emperors ; nor of mosques or baths, to shew it was 
fVequented by the Turks. In the time of Anacreon 
the Teians migrated, from a love of liberty, to 
Thrace, but some afterwards came back, and the 

" The mouth of the rivulet that passes by Sevri-hissar. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 121 

city reflourished. They are now utterly gone, and 
it is likely never to return. The site is a wilder- 
ness ; and the low grounds, which are wet, produce 
the iris, or flag, blue and white. This flower is 
stamped on the money of Teos. We saw cranes 
here stalking singly in the com and grass, and pick- 
ing up and gorging insects and reptiles ; or Ajmg 
heavily with long sticks in their mouths to the tops 
of trees, and of the remoter houses and chimneys, 
on which they had agreed to fix their habitation. 

The master of a Venetian snow, in the harbour 
of Segigeck, furnished us with a small quantity of 
wine, but of a poor quality ; otherwise we should 
have drank only water on a spot once sacred to 
Bacchus, and able to supply a Roman fleet. The 
grave Turk, its present owner, predestines the clus- 
ters of the few vines it now 1)ears for his food, when 
ripened ; or to be dried m the sun, as raisins, for 
sale. 



CHAP. XXVIII. 

TO SBVRI-HISSAE-— QUARRIES OF MARBLB — THB TOWN— THB 

niONYSIASTS, &C, 

Our apprehensi<ms of danger from the Kara-bor- 
niotes were now at an end. We dismissed the ja- 
nizary, whom we had engaged at Vourla,^ and on 
the evening of the second day after our arrival pco- 
ceeded to Sevri-hissar, distant one hour south-east- 
ward. We came, soon after leaving Segigeck, be- 
tween two conical rocks, one of a green aspect, the 
other brown and bare. The tall trees by the road- 
side were covered with spreading vines; and at a 
well was a marble pedestal perforated, and serving 



122 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

as a mouth. The front of it is inscribed with large 
characters ^9 and it once supported the statue of a 
great and munificent person, whose name it has not 
preserved. 

The gray marble used by the Teians was found 
at no great distance from the city. The rocks 
above mentioned are probably remains of the quarry, 
to which also the high rocky mount, about a mile 
north of Teos, seen in the view in the Ionian An^ 
tiquitieSf belonged. This, as Pococke relates, has, 
on the west side, a small lake in a deep basin, 
which, it is imagined by the people, feeds all the 
fountains about the country ; and to the south of the 
lake is a hollow ground, where are near twenty 
large pieces of gray marble, each cut out into seve- 
ral steps, of a size which would be very difficult to 
move. On one he saw inscribed, loco iiii. 

Sevri-hissar is an extensive straggling town, in a 
valley, two hours from the sea ; and may be deemed 
the Vourla of the Teians. The country round it is 
pleasant, and well cultivated. The Greeks, though 
numerous, have no church?. We were lodged in 
a wretched mud-built khan, by which is a lively 
brook, running west-north-westward. A stone bridge 
has been erected over it, and several piers remain. 
We had crossed it more than once on the way from 
Segigeck. We had here reason to dislike, and to be 
alarmed at, the carriage of some of our Turkish vi- 
sitants, but the janizary was our safeguard. 

Many scattered remnants of the ancient city oc- 
cur at Sevri-hissar <i. One, fixed in the wall of a 

o Inscript. Ant. p. 7. p One or more churches. R. 

'1 Inscript. Ant. p. 7, 8, 1 0. 



TEATEL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 12S 

house, mentions the two societies, the Panathenaists 
and the Dionysiasts. At the time of the Ionic mi- 
gration, a colony of Athenians took possession of 
Teos. These appear to have introduced the Pana- 
thenaea, the grand festival of their parent city. A 
crown of olive encircles the name of the community 
which had the care of its' celebration ; and one of 
ivy that of the Dionysiasts, who were artificers, or 
contractors for the Asiatic theatres, incorporated and 
settled at Teos under the kings of Pergamum '. I 
copied a long decree made by one of their companies 
in honour of its magistrates. The slab was placed 
as a graTestone in a Turkish burying^undS 
where the man who shewed it me, with some as- 
sistance, laid it flat, and a heavy shower falling, ren- 
dered the characters, which are large and unin- 
jured, easily legible. The thanks of the community, 
with a crown of olive, are given as a recompense for 
their great liberality and trouble in office; and to 
perpetuate their memory, and excite an emulation 
of their merit, it is besides enacted, that the decrees 
be engraved, but at their expense : so desirable was 
this testimony to the individuals, and so frugal the 
usage in bestowing it. 



CHAP. XXIX. 

WK ARRIVE AT HYPSILB — ^THB MYONNESUS— HYPSILE A 

STRONG-HOLD. 

The next day, April the 1st, in the afternoon, the 
weather proving fair, we continued our journey 

' Strabo, p. 643. 

* With a deserted mosque half an hour N. W. from Sevri- 
hissar. R. 



124 TEAVELS IN ASIA MINOS. 

southward; and, soon after setting out, had a low 
mountam on our left hand, with an opening in it, 
and a wide but dry water-course, which we crossed, 
and then passed over hills and dales bj small enclo- 
sures, regularly planted with oaks. Many of these 
supported vines, and between the rows was barley 
in ear, and other grain. The valanea, or large 
acorns S which they produce, are exported, chiefly 
to Italy, where the tanners use them instead of 
bark. Coming to the shore, we turned a little to 
the left, and ascended a very lofty hill, commanding 
a most extensive view of a picturesque country, of 
the seacoast, and islands. Near the top is a foun- 
tain, and over it a stone, on which is cut the Greek 
cross. We alighted, after a pleasant ride of three 
hours, at Hypsile, and were very well lodged in a 
large apartment, in a house belonging to a Turk of 
Sevri-hissar. 

We are now on the promontory, anciently called 
Myonnesus", between Teos and Lebedus. The sum- 
mit has been described as conical, and standing on 
an ample base. It was accessible from the continent 
by a narrow track only, and was terminated toward 
the sea by wave-wom rocks, hanging over, and in 
some places projecting beyond the vessels, to which 
it furnished a safe station below. The Myonnesus 
was the property of the Teians. 

Hypsile is a smaU village. The name, which is 
Greek, denotes its lofty situation. It was the strong- 
hold to which Cineis, whom we have mentioned in 



^ Or husks of the large acorns. R. 

"^ In D*Anv]lle's chart, Psili-bouroun, corruptly for Hypsilo- 
bounos^ The high Mountain. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 125 

a preceding chapter, retired before the army of Sul- 
tan Morat, and which he maintained gallantly, until 
his men began to mutiny. After surrendering, he 
was murdered here, sleeping in his tent. 



CHAP. XXX. 

HOT WATERS IN THB TBRRITORY OF USBBDUS SOMB 

RUINS ^LEBEDUS ^THB ISLAND ASPIS-^THB DIONYSIASTS. 

TV^E left Hypsile at eight in the morning, and in 
about an hour descended into a narrow bottom, 
which was filled with a thick smoke or mist, occa- 
sioned, as we discovered on a nearer approach, by 
steam arising from a small tepid brook, called Eli- 
jah ; the bed, of a deep-green colour. The current, 
which tasted Uke copperas, is confined in a narrow 
channel below, and turns two over-shot mills, falling 
soon after into a stream, then shallow, but flowing 
from a rich vale between the mountains, in a very 
wide course ; the bed,, of stone and white sand. 

We are now in the territory of Lebedus, which 
was noted, beyond any on the seacoast, for hot wa- 
ters. These are on record as plentiful, beneficial 
to the human race, and exciting admiration. The 
stream now supplies two mean baths on the margin, 
one with a large cross carved on a stone in the pave- 
ment, and chiefly used by the Greeks. 

From the baths we were conducted to some ruins 
called Ecclesia^ The Churchy about half an hour 
distant, on the same side of the river, and beneath 



^ These ruins were probably baths, the walls being crusted 
over in some places with petrifactions. R. 



126 TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

the mountain we had descended, or Myonnesus. 
They consisted of naked masses of stone and of 
brick» with cement» besides a very few marble frag-* 
ments ; and a basement, with the entire floor, of a 
small temple ; the whole environed with bushes. I 
rode on about a quarter of a ipile to the sea, but 
found no port or other vestiges of buildings. 

We returned to the road, and crossing a culti- 
vated plain, with a stream or two, came in an hour 
and a half to the sea, and a little peninsula sown 
with wheat. It has a fair beach, and probably is 
the spot on which Lebedus stood. By the rocky 
edge are traces of ancient wall ; and within it, be^ 
sides rubbish, are some pieces of Doric columns. 
This city enjoyed a fertile territory, but was sub- 
verted by Lysimachus, who removed the inhabit- 
ants, when he peopled Ephesus, to the sea. It sur- 
vived long as a village, and became, as it were, pro- 
verbial for its solitude. It is now untenanted, and 
not even a village. 

Strabo has mentioned an island called Aspis, and 
by some Arconnesus, between Teos and Lebedus; 
that, I suppose, which bore by our compass 68™. 
west of south from this spot, and which Pococke de- 
scribes as a long island, about the middle of the bay, 
stretching to the south-west, and now called Cara- 
bash. The Black Sash^ from some imaginary resem- 
blance. It is omitted in D*Anvi]le*s chart of the 
seacoast of Asia Minor. 

The Dionysiasts, mentioned in a preceding chap- 
ter, proving turbulent and seditious, were expelled 
Teos. They removed to Ephesus, and from thence 
were translated by king Attains to Myonnesus. The 
Teians sent an embassy to the Romans, requesting 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 127 

them not to suffer the Myonnesus to be fortified; 
and the Dionysiasts then removed to Lebedus, where 
they were received with joy. It was the custom of 
their synod to hold yearly a general assembly, at 
which they sacrificed to the gods, and poured liba- 
tions to their deceased benefactors. They liJ^ewise 
celebrated games in honour of Bacchus. The crowns, 
which any of the communities had bestowed as re- 
wards of merits were announced by heralds; and the 
wearers applauded. It was the business of the pre- 
sidents to provide splendid entertainments, and the 
meeting was solemnized with great pomp and festi- 
vity. This congress, it is probable, was held at the 
ruins described above, and that temple dedicated to 
the god, their patron. 



CHAP. XXXI. 

WB CROSS A TORRENT — ASCBND MOUNT GALUBSUS ^ARRIVB 

AT ZILLS, OR CLAROS REMAINS— OF THE ORACLE AND 

TEMPLE OF APOLLO OF THE ORACULAR FOUNTAIN AND 

CAVE OF COLOPHON, NOTIUM, AND CLAROS NO RE- 
MAINS OF THE TWO FORMER WB ARRIVE AT EPHESUS. 

Lkbebus was equidistant one hundred and twenty 
stadia, or fifteen miles, from Teos and from Colophon, 
near which city was Claros. We proceeded with an 
islet in view before us, once sacred to Diana. It was 
anciently believed that does, when big, swam across 
from the continent, and were there delivered of 
their young. Our guide mistook the track, and con- 
ducted us an hour out of our way. We passed 
through lanes, oUve-groves, and com. In two hours 
and a half we were suddenly stopped by a wide and 



128 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOB. 

very turbid river, descending from between mount 
Gallesus or The Airman, and the southern extre- 
mity of mount Corax» the range which had con- 
tinued on our left hand from near Teos. It is im* 
possible perhaps to concetve greater visible rapidity, 
the water hurrying by with so precipitous and head-* 
long a course, it was gone like an arrow from a 
bow. Our guide, after some hesitation, entered the 
stream, which proved shallow,' reaching only to the 
belly of his horse. We were apprehensive a low 
mule, heavily laden with baggage, would be carried 
away, but it struggled through, and we all got over 
safe. We tarried the night at a village 3^ an hour 
farther on, high on the mountain<-side, and ov«r* 
looking a rich plain and the sea, to the island 8a^ 
mos. 

In the morning, the wind, which had been north- 
erly for some time, was very cutting. We rode 
among the roots of Gallesus, through pleasant thick- 
ets abounding with goldfinches. The aerial sum- 
mits of this immense mountain towered on our left, 
clad with pines. We turned from the sea, and be- 
gan to ascend a rough track between green hills ; a 
clear stream falling by in murmuring cascades. At 
a distance was a village, which appeared almost in 
the clouds. Steep succeeded steep, as we advanced, 
and the path became more narrow, slippary, and un- 
even. We were instructed to let our t»idle be loose, 
to sit steady, and to prevent the saddle from sliding 
back by grasping the manes of our horses, while 
they clambered up; their known sureness of foot 
was our confidence and security by fearfiil precipices 

y Guintildarn. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MJNOl^. 129 

and giddy heights; where, if, from being checked, 
or by accident, they chance to fall, down you tumble 
many a fathom, without one friendly bush or shrub 
to interpose and contribute to your preservation. 
After much labour and straining we got to the top 
of the ridge, which is exceedingly high. Here we 
found the surface bare, except a few pines on one 
summit, beneath which some miserable cattle were 
standing, seemingly pinched with hunger, and ru- 
minating on the wretchedness of their lot. We saw 
at a distance a vast body of water encompassed with 
hills, being the lake or reservoir from which the nu- 
merous rills and rivulets on the sides of the moun- 
tain are fed. Farther in the country was a white 
top glistening with snow; and nearly before us a 
summit remarkably craggy, which is by the lake of 
Myus % and wiU be often mentioned. Several of our 
horses were lamQ,d in this journey to the sky, which 
was attended with many moanings from the Arme- 
nians, their owners. 

Descending GaUesus, we suddenly discovered near 
the bottom some mean huts, immediately beneath 
us, on the declivity. We inquired of the inhabit- 
ants, who were <jreeks, for ruins, and they directed 
us to Claros, now called ZiUe, by the sea. We 
crossed a brook, which is in the middle c^ a culti- 
vated vale, and entered a thick grove of olives, 
where some armed men started up from under a 
tree, and, running to the road, stopped our servants 
and baggage-horses. The janizary, as soon as we 
perceived it, gallopped back, and a short parley en- 
sued. We were informed they belonged to the mu- 

' Heraclea. R. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. K 



ISO TKATELS IK ASIA IflKOB. 

adeniy a Turimh officer of great power and exteii- 
Are command, rending at CUli, distant an hour and 
a half toward &nyma. Cara-Ele&C^|tt then pos- 
sessed that hi^ dignity. He was fimioos as an ex- 
odlent goyemor, and remarkaMe for his civiMty to 
the Franks or Europeans. We continued our jour- 
ney to ZiUe, which is by computati<Hi four hours 
from Goomulderd, where we lay ; we arrived in six. 

We were apprised of our approadi to Zille, cnr 
Claros, by vestiges of ancient sepulchres on the 
mountain-side, close by the way, on our left hand. 
One, which was hewn in the rock, has a narrow 
doorway leading into it; and within, a long hori- 
Eontal niche or cavity, transverse, far the body. 
Farther on, and higher up, is a wdl of fine water ; 
then full to the brim, and overflowing. This ridge 
is separated by a narrow vale from a small rocky 
promontory, which is encompassed with a ruinous 
wall of rough stone, the masonry that termed pfeu^ 
disodamum. We rode in at a gap or gateway, and 
found a theatre of the same brown material as the 
wall, many jAeces of marble, wdls, and rannants of 
churches ; and besides these an imperfect time-eaten 
heap of a large temfde. We had a distinct view of 
Aiasalddc, the plain of Ephesus, and the town of 
Scala Nova. 

Claros was very early the seat of a temple and 
oracle of ApoUo. It is related, that Chalchas, after 
the destruction of Troy, had an interview th»e with 
the prophet Mopsus, and died of grief on finding he 
was excelled in his precession. The person who sus- 
tained this high ofiice could be taken only from par- 
ticular families, and was generally of Miletus, unlet- 
tered, and ignorant of composition. He was told only 



TRAVEI.S IN A8IA MINOIt. 131 

the Bumbei* and names of the consultars^ and then 
descended into a cave^ in which was a fisaure with 
water. After drinking of this spring, he uttered 
responses in verses made on the subject on which 
each had thought ip his own wind ; but tihis prac- 
tice was prejudicial to his healtbt perhaps from the 
dampness af the {dace, and he was commonly short- 
lived. He got by rote, I conceive, or else carried 
down with him, the answers ready prepared; and 
the god would soon have lost his reputation, had the 
consulters been so cunning as to have kept every one 
his secret from the agents and spies employed to dive 
into their business. The temple, which was un- 
finished, with the sacred grove of ash-trees, is men- 
tioned by Pausanias among the curiosities peculiar 
to Ionia* It is not certain whether the oracle existed 
after Constantine the Great, or when ApoUo was 
finally silenced and dethroned ; but Christianity suc- 
ceeded, and has flourished in its turn at Claros. 

In vfewing the well on the ridge b(^»re men-, 
tioned, I remarked it had marble steps leading down 
from the top; and four or five were visible below 
the surface. The water, which, as a peasant with 
me affirmed, is very deep, obscured the remainder. 
There, it may be conjectured, was the prophetic 
^ntaifi and cave. The passage by which the waste 
curr^t was conveyed away has been choked firom 
neglect pr by design ; and the water, being confined, 
has filled the hollow of the rock, and the entrance 
to it, rising until it had liberty to escape over the 
m^aigin. The superstitious use ceased with the re- 
verence lor Ap<^ ; men unhallowed drinking of it 
without feeling inspiration or dreading punishment : 

and, perhaps, to promote a popular oblivion of the 

k2 



IS2 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR, 

place, the enemies of the god, who destroyed his 
temple and grove, devised the present alteration, by 
the easy and obvious method of a)nverting the cave 
into a reservoir. 

Colophon was situated inland. Before it, besides 
Claros, was Notium, a town and haven bearing the 
same relation to it as the Piraeus did to Athens^ 
and distant near two miles. It is termed the Colo- 
phonian Notiun), to distinguish it from that of Chios, 
a portion of the coast of the island, with a road for 
vesseb. Colophon was only seventy stadia, or eight 
miles and three quarters, from Ephesus in a straight 
course ; but, by the windings of the bays, one hun- 
dred and twenty stadia, or fifteen miles. Lysima- 
chus destroyed it to enlarge that city ; but some of 
the Colophonians remained at Notium, to whom the 
Romans granted immunities after their war with 
Antiochus. The Ha]ys, or Halesus, ran by Colophon ; 
and then, not far from the- grove of Claros. The 
stream was colder than any in Ionia, and celebrated 
for that quality by the elegiac poets. Going out of 
Colophon, on the left of the road, after you had 
passed the Calaon, perhaps a brook running into the 
Halys, was shewn the burying-place of Andremon, 
one of the leaders in the Ionic migration ; and on 
the same side of the rpad, in the way to Claros, that 
of the Smymeans and Colophonians, who fell fight- 
ing with the Macedonians under Lysimachus". 

Many difficulties have arisen ^ concerning Claros, 
Notium, and Colophon, which are removed by this 
account of their proximity and mutual connection. 
Colophon was sacrificed to the grandeur of its neigh- 

. » Pausanias, p. 208. *» See Cellarius, p. 47, 48. 



XBAVEL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 188 

hour Ephesus. The name, as at Lebedus, survived, 
but without its pristine importance; and Notium 
suffered, as it were, by sympathy. Religion and 
Apollo interposed to rescue Claros, and the con- 
course of consulters and devotees maintained it and 
the temple. But now Colophon, if its site be not 
occupied by the wretched huts before mentioned, is 
extinct; and Claros, with Notium, has been long 
abandoned. The brook we crossed w^s the Halys. 
The vale on the north side of the promontory, which 
it divides, has perhaps increased toward the sea, and 
the old haven been filled up by soil washed from the 
mountains. 

When we had finished our survey of Claros, we 
returned to some huts, and pitching our tent, lay 
surrounded with our baggage, men, and horses. In 
the morning early we passed by Zille, and over two 
ridges of Gallesus. We then entered on the plain 
of Ephesus, and travelled along the edge toward the 
shore, until we came to the mouth of a lake, at 
which was a weir of reeds, and a bridge of three 
arches; but of one more than half was broken 
away. My companions, with our men, crossed be- 
low it by the sea, but seeing the water deep, I dis- 
mounted and walked over. The lake is long, and 
extended close by us on our left almost to the river 
Cayster, near which we turned up from the beach. 
We discovered soon after a fisherman's hut between 
the lake and the river. We were ferried over the 
latter in a triangular float; and in three hours ar- 
rived at Ephesus. We pitched our tent among the 
ruins S which are at a distance from Aiasaluck. 

^ among the rains, whidi are, &c.] by the ruins of the gymns^- 
sium^ which is, &c. R. 

k3 



184 TEAVELg tV ASIA MINOR. 

We had been here before, and diall now give an 
account of that jouraej. 



CHAP. XXXIL 

DISTANCB OF BPHBSUS FROM SMTRNA^-^rO SBDICm — TO tHB 
OOURCBS OF A R1VBR— ^TO TOURBALI— ^>F THB TURCOMANS 
— TBBIR BOOTHS — TO THB CATSTXR— ARRIVB AT AIASA- 
LUCK — RBLATfON OF A JOURNBY IN 1705. 

The two ckies Ephesus and Smyrna have been 
termed the ejes of Asia Minor. They were distant 
from each other three hundred and twenty stadia^ 
or forty miles, in a straight line. On the road, one 
hundred and twenty from Epheras, was a town 
called Metropolis. Aiasatuc^ is now reckoned four^- 
teen hours from Sm3rma. 

We left the consul's house on Sunday the last 
day of September^ in the forenoon, and passing the 
river Meles, rode with the castle^hill of Smjrma on 
our right hand, to a gap in the wall ^ of the pomoe- 
rium. We crossed the bed of the torrent ^ and soon 
arrived at Sedicui, a small but pleasant village, about 
two hours distant. We passed the night at a house, 
which Mr. Lee, who had accompanied us, rented of 
a Turk ; the asylum, where afterwards we had re- 
fuge from the plague and Smyrna. - 

We were on horseback again at five in the morn- 
ing, bef(H'e daybreak, going southward. A string of 
camels was in motion at the same time, the fore* 
most with a bell fastened about his neck, and tink- 



^ This wall seems to have been part of an aqueduct which 
conveyed water to the upper part of the city. R. 
* The Melas again. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOB« 135 

ling.. The dawn soon aft^r began to disclose the 
blue tops of the mountains, and the sun rising co- 
loured the skj with a rich variety of tints. The 
air was soft and fragrant. We passed by an prdi-? 
nary bridge or two over water-courses, then dry ; 
and through a wet bottom, and a heath covered 
with pines, wild thyme, and many large thickets of 
myrtle in flower. On the slopes of the mountains 
were several villages. We dismounted about eight 
at a coffee-shed standing by the side of the road 
near a hut, called Olalanazzi. One of the rivers, 
which we crossed in travelling, along the coast, rises 
there from ft)ur heads. The streams soon unite in 
a clear brook, and wind in the shade over a dean 
gravelly bed, with gentle cascades and a pleasing 
murmur. In it were many smaU fishes and tortoises. 
Each source is enveloped with bushes of myrtle, in- 
termixed with plane-trees ; and the hut is between 
two, about fifty yards asunder. The agreeaUe^esh- 
ness and verdure produced by these lively currents 
afford a most grateftd reUef to the thir$d;y sun-burnt 
traveller. That the ancient lonians were not insen- 
sible to the charms of the spot may be inferred 
from the vestiges of building near it, and from the 
remnants of marble. 

After drinking coffee we went on, and entering 
a hollow way shaded with pines, came in view of a 
ruined caravansera, or building for the reception of 
travellers, near an extensive plain ^ Here a stream 
descends through a pleasant vale, in which are some 
scattered cottages, named Terrenda, with a mill, by 
which we dined on a green plat, when we returned. 

^ On the side of which we had travelled some miles. R. 

K 4 



1S6 TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

Among the lew bushes, on a gentle rising dose 
by, are some marble firagments; and, searching 
about, we found by the road an inscription ?, which 
has belonged to an ancient sepulchre. It was well 
cut, on a square stone, and perhaps near the site of 
the edifice. At ten we passed by Hortena, a strag- 
gling village. On the left hand is a small Turkish 
burying-ground by a fountain, and vestiges of build- 
ing. We arrived an hour after at Tourbali, where 
we dined by a well near the khan under a spreading 
tree, and were much incommoded by dust and wind. 
The roof of the stable was supported by broken co- 
lumns ; and in the wall was a piece of Doric frieze, 
with some fragments removed, it is likely^ from the 
ruins of Metropdds. 

We were told here, that the road farther on was 
beset with Turcomans ; a people supposed to be de- 
scended fix)m the Nomades Scythae, or Shepherd 
Scythians ; busied, as of old, in breeding and nur- 
turing cattle; and leading, as then, an unsettled 
life ; not forming villages and towns with stable ha- 
bitations, but flitting from place to place, as the 
season and their convenience directs ; choosing their 
stations, and overspreading without control the vast 
neglected pastures of this desert empire. These wan- 
derers were early a nuisance to the Greeks ; and in 
a treaty with one of the sultans, the emperor re- 
quires him to punish as many of them as were his 
subjects, and had trespassed on their territories \ 
They are there said to live by theft and robbery, an 
article in which likewise the uniformity of character 
has been preserved. They vary in savageness and 

B Inscript. Ant. p. 1 1. »» Cinnamus, lib. iv. p. 225. 



TBATELS IK ASIA MINOR. 187 

violence^ as the respective dans happen to be more 
or less humanized by social intercourse, and atten- 
tion to dvil life. 

The aga of Tourbali and our Armenians would 
have persuaded us to stay until the next mornings 
but as it was not yet noon, we resolved to go on. 
The aga then appointed a Turk to accompany us as 
a guide and safeguard, asserting that he was re- 
sponsible to Elez-Oglu, if any stranger suffered on 
that road. We set out, and had on our right De- 
pecui, a village, in which we could discern a large^ 
square^ ruinous edifice, with spaces for windows. 
Soon after we came to a wild country covered with 
thickets, and with the black booths of the Turco- 
mans, spreading on every side, innumerable, with 
flocks, and herds, and horses, and poultry, feeding 
round them. We crossed an extensive level plain '\ 
overrun with bushes, but missed Metropolis, of which 
some vestiges remain ^ ; our guide leading us to the 
left of the direct road from Smyrna to Ephesus. 

About three o'clock we approached a valley, 
which divides two very lofty mountains. The ex- 
tremity of Gallesus, or The AUman^ which was on 
our right, is covered with trees, rising beautiftilly in 
regular gradation up the slope. The other, opposite 
to it, is quite bare and naked. We now perceived 
four men riding briskly toward us, abreast, well 
mounted and armed. Our janizary and Armenians 
halted, as they passed, and faced about until they 
were gone beyond our baggage. We came soon 
after to a fountain, and a coffee-hut, above which, 
on the mountain-side, is Oseban^, a Turkish village. 

^ The same as mentioned before. R. 
^ See Wheler and ChishuU. 



188 TBATELS IK ASIA MINOE. 

We then discovered on our left a rmned bridge^ 
and the river Cayster, whidi met us again at four» 
the water still, and apparently stagnant, the banks 
steep. A castle, visible a£ur off, stands on the sum* 
mit of Gallesus. 

We turned westward at the end of the opening 
between the mountains, and had on our left a val- 
ley, bounded by a mountain called anciently Pac- 
tyas. The road lay at the foot of GaUesus, beneath 
precipices of a stupendous height, abrupt and inac- 
cessible. In the rock are many holes inhabited by 
eagles ; of which several were soaring hi^ in the 
air, with rooks and crows clamouring about them 
so far above us as hardly to be discernible. By the 
way was a well, and part of a marUe sarcophagus, 
or coffin, on which were carved heads and festoons. 
The Cayster, which had been concealed in the val* 
ley, now appeared again ; and we had in view be- 
fore us the round hill and stately castle of Aiasa^ 
luck, very seasonably for man and horse, both jaded 
with heat, and wanting rest. Mount Pactyas here 
retires with a circular sweep, while Gallesus pre- 
serves its direction to the sea, which is the western 
boundary of the plain. This has been computed 
five miles long. The Cayster met us near the en* 
trance on it ; and we passed over an ordinary bridge, 
a little below which are pieces of veined marble, 
polished, the remnants of a structure more worthy 
Ephesus. The stream was shallow, but formed a 
basin crossed by a weir of reeds. We purchased 
some live mullet of the fisherman who was there. 
A narrow track, winding through rubbish and loose 
stones round the castle-hiU, brought us in about half 
an hour more to Aiasaluck. 



THAVELfi IK A8IA MINOE. 1S9 

I dmll insat here an account of a journey to 
Aiasaltick in 1705, from an imperfect diary \ found 
among Chkhuirs papers, written in Latin by Dr. 
Antony Picenini, a Grison, who happened to be 
tiien at Smyrna, joined in company with consul She- 
rard, a»d other gentlemen of the En^ish nation. 
They set out on the 18th of August, at four in the 
afibemoon, and, passing through the plain of Bujaw, 
came about fire to a little hill, and a rivulet then 
dry; and after riding about three hours pitched 
their tents by a small village, called Sinofocheli. 
They set out again the next morning before six, 
through an uncultivated plain ; and after two hours 
crossed a narrow but deep stream, which he calls 
Halesus : going on in this plain, the road good, they 
observed, in less than two hours, some vestiges of 
an aqueduct reaching toward a village on their left ; 
where also were ruins on a hill. A wide paved way 
led through cultivated fields to the mountain-foot, 
toward the left, where they halted to rest about 
noon in a wood. They had seen fragments of co- 
lumns and other remains of Metropolis. They pro- 
ceeded at three, and soon had the Cayster on their 
left, and the castle on the precipice in view. This 
was then called Kezel-hissar, The Castle of the 
CroatSf perhaps as scarcely accessible but to those 
animals. They turned, as we did, westward ; and 
at six arrived at AiasaMck in thirteen hours from 
Smjrma. 

' lo the possession of John Loveday^ esq. of Caverebam, near 
Reading, 

The other gentlemen were the Rev. John Tisser, chaplain to 
the English factory; and Cutts Lockwood and John Lethieullier, 
two capital merchants, of great spirit and generosity. 



140 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOA; 



CHAP. XXXIIL 

AlASALUCK— THB EVENING ^REMAINS — ^THE CASTLE — THE 

MOSQUE — THE AQUEDUCT — AN ANCIENT BRIDGE. 

A^IASALUCK is a small village, inhabited by a few 
Turkish families, standing chielSy on the south side 
of the castle-hilly among thickets of tamarisk and 
ruins. It was dusk when we alighted^ lamenting 
the silence and complete humiliation, as we con- 
ceived, of Ephesus. The caravansera, to which we 
had been directed, was exceedingly mean and 
wretched. A marble coffin, freed from the human 
dust, served as a water-trough to a well in the 
front. Some figures holding Roman ensigns have 
been carved on it; and, as we learn from the in- 
scription '°, it once contained the bodies of a captain 
of a trireme, named the Griffin, together Mdth his 
wife. Close by, some tall camels, just arrived, stood 
pensive ; or, with their knees tied, to prevent their 
rising from the ground, mildly waited the removal 
of their burdens. 

The caravansera being friU, ^e were distressed 
for a place to lodge in, but after some time a Turk 
offered us a shed by his cottage, open to the south- 
east, the roof and sides black with smoke. Some 
martend had made their nests against the rafters; 
and we were told, their visits were deemed to por- 
tend good, and that the Turks wished them to fre- 
quent their apartments, leaving a passage for their 
admission. Our horses were disposed among the 
walls and rubbish, with their saddles on ; and a mat 
was spread for us on the ground. We sate here, in 



m 



See Hesselius, Append, ad Gudiurp. 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 141 

the air, while supp^ was preparing ; when sudden- , 
I7 fires began to blaze up among the bushes, and 
we saw the villagers odlected about them in savage 
groups, or passing to and fro with lighted brands 
for torches. The flames, with the stars and a pale 
moon, afforded us a dim prospect of ruin and deso- 
lation. A shrill owl, named Cucuvaia from its note, 
with a night-hawk, flitted near us; and a jackal 
cried mournfully, as if forsaken by his companions, 
on the mountain. 

We retired early in the evening to our shed, not 
without some sensations of melancholy, which were 
renewed at the dawn of day. We had then a dis- 
tinct view of a solemn and most forlorn spot; a 
neglected castle, a grand mosque, and a broken 
aqueduct, with mean cottages, and ruinous build- 
ings interspersed among wild thickets, and spread- 
ing to a considerable extent. Many of the scattered 
structures are square, with domes, and have been 
baths. Some gravestones occurred, finely painted 
and gilded, and fairly embossed, as the Turkish 
manner is, with characters in relievo. But the 
castle, the mosque, and the aqueduct, are alone suf- 
ficient evidences, as well of the former greatness, of 
the place, as of its importance. 

The castle is a large and barbarous edifice, the 
wall built with square towersi You ascend to it 
over heaps of stones intermixed with scraps of mar- 
ble. An outwork, which secured the approach, 
consisted of two lateral walls from the body of the 
fortress, with a gateway. This faces the sea, and 
is supported on each side by a huge and awkwai:d 
buttress, constructed chiefly with the seats of a 
theatre or stadium, many of them marked with 



142 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINCE, 

Greek letters. Several fragments of insariptioiis "^ 
are inserted in it, or lie near. Over. the ardi are 
four pieces of ancient sculpture. The two in the 
middle are in alto-relievo, of most exquisite woik- 
manship, and evidently parts of the saiAe design ; 
one, representing, it seems, the death of Patrodus ; 
the other, plainly the bringing of his body to Achil* 
les. The third exhibits a corpse, it is likely that of 
Hector, with women lamenting ; is in basso-relievo, 
not so wide, and, besides, differs so much, that it 
can be considered as connected with the former only 
in having a reference to the Iliad. These were care- 
fully drawn by Mr. Pars ; and two of them, the first 
and last, may be seen, engraved by Bartolozzi, in 
Mr. Wood's Essay on Homer. The fourth is carved 
with boys and vine-branches, is narrower, and much 
injured ^. Within the castle are a few huts, an old 
mosque, and a great deal of rubbish. If you move 
a stone here, it is a chance but you find a scoorpion 
under it. 

The grand mosque is situated beneath the castle, 
westward. Tlie side next the foot of the hill is of 
stone; the remainder, of veined marUe, polished. 
The two domes are covered with lead, and each is 
adorned with the Mahometan crescent. In front is 
a court, in which was a lai^ fountain to supply the 
devout mussulman with water, for the purifications 
required by his law. The broken columns are re- 
mains of a portico. The three entrances of the 
court, the doorways of the mosque, and many of 
the window-cases have mouldings in Uie Saracenic 
style, with sentences, as we supposed, from the Ko- 

" See Hesselius. ^ See Tournefort. 



TBATSLS IN ASIA MINOB. 143 

ran, in Arabic characters^ handsomely cut. The 
windows have wooden frames, and are latticed with 
wire. The inside is mean, except the kible, or por« 
tion toward Mecca^ which is ornamented with carv- 
ing, painting, and gilding. The minaret is fallen. 
We found a long Greds: inscription p, nearly effaced, 
in the wall of the side next to Gallesus. The &bric 
was raised with old materials. The large granite 
columns which sustain the roef, and the marbles, 
are ipoils from ancient Ephesus. 

The aqueduct, on the opposite side of the castl&* 
hill, reaches from the foot quite across the pkdn, 
eastward to mount Pactyas. The piers are square 
and tall, and many in number, with arches of brick* 
They are constructed chiefly with inscribed pede*- 
stals ; on one of which is the name of Atticus He« 
Todes, whose statue it has supported. We copied 
or cdttated several, but found none which have not 
been published. The minute diligence of em*lier 
collectors had been extended to the unimportant 
fragmaits, and even single words within reach, from 
the first to the forty-fifth pier ^. The marbles yet 
untouched would fiirnish a copious and curious har- 
vest, if accessible. The downfall of some may be 
expected continually, from the tottering condition 
of the fabric ; and time and earthquakes will supply 
the want of ladders, for which the traveller wishes 
in vain at a place, where, if a tall man, he may al- 
most overtook the houses. The water was conveyed 
in earthen pipes, and, it has been surmised, was that 
of a femous spring named HaUtaea. It is now in« 
tercepted, no mmsture trickling from the extremity 

p See Pococke, Insc. p. 19. n. 15. "i See Hesselius. 



144 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

of the duct on the mountain. The ruin abounds in 
snakes. We saw a very long one twisting between 
the stones, which are not accurately joined ; and the 
peasants with us attacked and killed it. We like- 
wise disturbed many chameleons and lizards, which 
were basking in the sun. We were in danger near 
the village from large fierce dogs» which the boys 
encouraged to worry and to attack us. 

In the way from Aiasaldck to Guzel-hissar or 
Magnesia by the Maeander, about four or five miles 
distant, is a narrow woody valley, with a stream, 
over which is an ancient bridge of three arches. Two 
long Hnes, one in Latin, the other in Greek, are in- 
scribed on it, and inform us, it was dedicated to the 
Ephesian Diana, the emperor Caesar Augustus, Ti- 
berius Caesar his son, and to the people of Ephesus ; 
and also that FoUio, a Roman, erected it at his own 
expense '. This fabric has been deformed by a sub- 
sequent addition; the three arches now sustaining 
six, intended to convey a current of water across 
the valley, probably to the aqueduct of Aiasaldck. 



^ CHAP. XXXIV. 

AIASALUCK NOT EPHJBSUS — ^TAMBRLANE AT AIASALUCK 

HISTORY OF THE TWO PLACES CONFOUNDED— ORIGIN OF 
AIASALUCK — ^THUNDER-STORM ^A FLOOD. 

A.IASALUCK has had an affinity with Ephesus si- 
milar to that of Sevri-hissar with Teos. We found 
no theatre, nor stadium, nor temple. The whole 
was patchwork, composed of marbles and fragments 

^ Inscript Ant. p. 1 1 . 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 145 

removed from their original places, and put together 
without elegance or order. We were convinced that 
we had not arrived yet at Ephesus, before we dis- 
covered the ruins of that city ; which are by the 
mountains, nearer the sea, visiUe fi^m the castle- 
hill, and distant above half a mile. 

A change in the names of places, with the new 
settlements which had been established under the 
Turks, renders it difficult to follow Tamerlane in 
his marches through Asia Minor ; but from Guzel- 
hissar or Magnesia by the Maeander, he came to 
Aiazlik, or Aiasaluck. There also he encamped after 
subduing Smyrna in 1402. The events recorded of 
Ephesus, posterior to this date, belong, it seems, to 
Aiasaluck, and its citadel or castle. 

Two years after the invasion by Tamerlane, Ci- 
neis, it is related, took Ephesus from Amir, sultan 
of Smyrna, who retired to Mantakhia, his uncle,* 
prince of Caria. Amir, returning with six thousand 
men, besieged and set fire to the town. The fether 
of Cineis, who commanded there with three thou- 
sand men, maintained the citadel while he had hopes 
of succour. Cineis again attacked Ephesus, and 
drove Amir in his turn into the citadel. These 
chieftains were reconciled, and Cineis by the death 
of Amir became a sovereign. Sultan Solyman ad- 
vanced against him with a large army from Prusa, 
by Smyrna, to Mesaulion, where he intrenched. Ci- 
neis had prevailed on the princes of Cotyceium and 
Iconium to join him at Ephesus, and the two ar- 
mies were only six leagues asunder; when, appre- 
hending treachery in his allies, he gallopped to the 
citadel, exhorted his brother not to give it up be- 
fore the following day, and at night repaired to the 

CHANULEli, ASIA M. L 



146 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

camp of Solyman. The two princes retreated with 
their forces at sunrise, fording the river on one 
side, while the sultan crossed it over a bridge by 
mount Gallesus, and entered Ephesus. The citadel 
is here distinguished so plainly, that a person who 
has seen the places will scarcely hesitate to pro- 
nounce, that the Ephesus of Cineis was the Aiasa- 
Idck of Tamerlane. 

Aiasalfick has certainly flourished chi^y, if not 
solely, under the Mahometans. Its origin may with 
probability be referred to the thirteenth century. 
It is related, that Mantakhia, before mentioned, 
subdued Ephesus with Caria in 1S13. He perhaps 
fortified this rock for a strong hold, and the town 
grew under its protection. The mosque and aque- 
duct, as well as the castle, are great though inele- 
gant structures. They suggest the idea, that the 
place has been honoured with the residence of 
princes, and it is likely were erected under him and 
his nephew Amir. The marble materials of ancient 
Ephesus, then in ruins, were amassed for these build- 
ings, which have contributed largely to the present 
nakedness of its site. 

On the second evening of our stay at Aiasaliick 
heavy clouds began to arrive apace, with a southerly 
wind, and to settle upon the mountains round us ; 
when all became black and gloomy. At night fre- 
quent flashes of pale lightning, each making a mo* 
mentary day, gleamed into the plain ; while awful 
thunder, prolonged by repeated reverberations, mov- 
ed solemnly along upon the summits. The explo- 
sions were near, and loud, and dreadflil, far beyond 
any I ever heard before. Well might the devout 
heathen, unskilled in natural causes, ascribe to a 



TRAVELS IN ASIA mXOR. 147 

present deitj so grand an operation ; afnd while the 
tremendous god drove, as he conceived, his terriUe 
chariot through the darkness, tremble at the im- 
mense display of his power, and be filled with ap- 
prehension of his wrath* 

The rain, pouring down violently in large drops, 
soon made its way through our slender shed, and 
fell plentifully on us' and our bedding, tinged with 
soot and dirt. Om* horses were without shdter, and 
our men in an instant wet to the skin. It held up 
again about ten in the morning, and we crossed the- 
plain to the ruins of Ephesus, but soon after the 
thunder and rain recommenced, and forced us to re- 
turn. In the afternoon the plain was ddnged with 
water from the mountains, running down like a tor-' 
rent, and rendering it in many places impassable. 
The aga of Aiasalfick being absent, we visited hisr 
deputy, our men carrying, as usual, some cc^ee and 
smaU loaves of sugar as a present. He received us 
very graciously', sitting cross-legged on the roof of 
an old bath, which was his habitation. 



CHAP. XXXV. 

EPHEStJS — THB STADIUM — ^THB THEATRE — ^THE ODEtJM, &C. 
— ^THE GYMNASIUM — A STREET — ANOTHER— A TEMPLE— 
SaUARB TOWER— EXTENT OFTHE CITY— AVBNltBS*^— PRION, 
A MOUNTAIN OF MARBLE«-A PUkCB OF BURIAL — THB 
aUARRlBS^ &e. 

£fh£8US was situated by the mountains, which 
are the southern boundary of the plain, and compre-i 
hended within its wall a portion of mount Prion 

" Ungraciously, being in a sullen humour. R. 

l2 



148 TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and of Corissus. Mount Prion is a circular bill, re- 
sembling that of Aiasaluck, but much larger. Co- 
rissus is a single lofty ridge, extending northward 
from near mount Pactyas, and approaching Prion, 
then making an elbow, and running westwardly to- 
ward the sea. This city, as well as Smyrna, was 
built by Lysimachus, who abo enrolled its senate, 
and provided for its dvil government. 

We entered Ephesus from Aiasaluck, with mount 
Prion, and the exterior lateral wall of a stadium, 
which fronted the sea, on our left hand. Going on 
and turning, we passed that wing of the building, 
and the area opened to us. We measured it with 
a tape, and found it six hundred eighty-seven 
feet long. The side next the plain was raised on 
vaults, and faced with the strong wall before men- 
tioned. The opposite side, which overlooks it, and 
the upper end^ both rested on the slope of the hill. 
The seats, which . ranged in numerous rows one 
above another, have all been removed; and of the 
front only a few marbles remain, with an archS 
which terminates the left wing, and was one of the 
avenues provided for the spectators. Upon the key- 
stone of the back front is a small mutilated figure. 
This part of the fabric was restored, or repaired, 
when the city had declined in splendour, and was 
partly ruinous ; for it is composed of marbles which 
have belonged to other buildings. A bass-relief, 
ruddy carved, is inserted in it ; and several inscrip- 
tions, effaced, or too high up to be read; besides 
fragments, some with Roman letters. 

The preaching of St. Paul produced a tumult at 

^ See a view of this arch in Le Brun^ p. 3 1 . 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 149 

Bphesus, the people rushing into the theatre, and 
shouting *' Great is Diana." The vestiges of this 
structure, which was very capacious, are farther on 
in the side of the same mountain. The seats and 
the ruins of the front are removed. In both wings 
are several architectural fragments ; and, prying 
about the side next to the stadium, we discovered 
an inscription ^ over an arch *, once one of the ave^ 
nues, and closed up perhaps to strengthen the fa- 
bric. It bids the reader, if he approached not the 
festive scene, still be pleased with the achieve- 
ments of the architect, who had saved the vast circle 
of the theatre ; all-conquering time having yielded 
to the succour he had contrived. That it is of a 
low age, may be inferred from the form of the cha- 
racters, and from the ligatures, which render it dif- 
ficult to be deciphered. The early advocates for 
Christianity inveighed against the fashionable diver- 
sions; but the public relish for the stage, for the 
athletic exercises, races, and spectacles, was invete- 
rate; and the theatre, the stadium, and the like 
places of resort, continued to be frequented long 
after them, even at Ephesus. 

Going on from the theatre, which had a stoa, or 
portico, annexed to it, as may be collected from the 
pedestals and bases of columns ranging along on 
this side, and concealed partly in the ground, you 
come to a narrow valley, which divides mount Prion 
from Corissus; Near the entrance, in a small water- 
course, was a marble with an inscription, which I 
copied y ; and we could discern a few letters on an- 

" See Inscript. Ant. p. 1 1 . 

'On the enclosure of an arch. R. 

y Inscript. Ant. p. 1 1 . 

l3 



150 TBAVXLft IH ASIA UVUOR. 

odier stone oFarwhdnaed with rubbidi. Close by 
were ruins ci a church, and a stmie carved with the 
Greek cross. Within the valley you 'find broken 
columns and pieces o£ marble, with vestiges of an 
odeum', or music-theatre, in the «lope of Prion. 
This, which was not a large structure, is stripped 
of the seats, and naked. Near it are some piers 
with small arches, each of a single stone, almost bu- 
ried in soil. It is a precept of Vitruvius, that the 
odeum be x)n the left hand coming from the theatre. 
Beyond the odeum the valley opens gradually 
into the plain of Aiasaltick. Keeping round by 
Prion, you meet with vestiges of buttdings, and 
jcome to the remains of a large edifice, resembling 
that with an arcade at Troas. The top of one of 
the niches is painted with waves and fishes,^ and 
among the fragments lying in the front are two 
trunks of statues, of great size, without heads, and 
almost buried; the drapery, which is in both the 
same, remaikaUe. This huge building was the 
gymnasium, which is mentioned as behind the city. 
We pitched our tent among its ruins when we ar- 
rived from Claros, and were employed on it three 
days in taking a plan and view. We had a letter 
of recommendation from a Turkish officer at Smyr- 
na to the aga of Aiasaldck ; but, not going thither, 
he sent to require of us bac-shi^h, and was easily 

^ Vitruvius spfiaks here of the porticoes dT theatres; and among 
other example givfea the odeum of Pericles as one, which>was si- 
tuated on the left hand going out of the theatre of Bacchus, but 
at a distance from it^ having the portico of Eumenes between 
them. From want of knowing this, authors have been mistaken 
in the sense of this passage^ supposing the odeum to be a part of 
the theatre, or connected with it. R. 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOE. 151 

gratified We then found the area of the stadium 
^een with com, and the site in general overrun 
with fennel in seed, the stalks strong and tall. Some 
traces, which in the autumn before had . been plain, 
were not discernible. 

We return now to the entrance, of the dty from 
Aiasaluck. That street was nearly of the length of 
-the stadium, which ranged along cHie side. The op- 
posite side was composed of edifices equally ample 
and noUe. The way was between a double colon- 
nade, as we conjectured from the many pedestals 
and bases of columns scattered there. These, fabrics 
were all raised high above the level of the plain, 
and have their vaulted substructions yet entire. 

This street was crossed by one leading from the 
jdain toward the valley before mentioned, which 
had on the left the front of the stadium, and the 
theatre, with the portico aij^oining. On the right 
are ample substructions; tod opposite to the sta*- 
dium lies a basin of white marble streaked with red» 
about fifteen feet in diameter, once belonging to a 
fountain ; with some shafts of small pillars near it 
ahnost buried in earth. The ruins on this side are 
pieces of massive wall, which have been incrusted, 
as appears from holes bored for affixing the marble ; 
and ordinary arches of brick, among which are frag- 
ments of columns of red granite. These remains 
i*each as far as the portico, and have behind them a 
morass, once the city-port. By the highest of them 
is the entrance of a souterrain, which extends un- 
derneath ; these buildings having been erected on a 
low and marshy spot. Opposite to the portico is a 
vacant quadrangular space, with many bases of co- 

lumns and marble fragments scattered along the 

l4 



152 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

edges. Here, it is probable, was the agora, or mar- 
ket-place, which in maritime towns was generaUj 
near the port ; in inland, near the centre ; and com- 
monly built with colonnades. The other remains 
are perhaps of the arsenals, and of the public trea- 
sury, the prison, and the like buildings; which in 
the Greek cities were usually by the market-place ^ 
We are now at the end of the street, and near 
the entrance of the valley between Prion and Coris- 
sus. Here, turning toward the sea, you have the 
market-place on the right hand; on the left, the 
sloping side of Coiissus, and presently the prostrate 
heap of a temple, which fronted 22 °'. east of north. 
The length was about one hundred and thirty feet, 
the breadth eighty. The cell or nave was con- 
structed with large coarse stones. The portico^ 
was marble, of the Corinthian order. The temple 
was in antis^ or of the eustyle species, and had 
four cdumns between the ant^e. We found their 
capitals, and also one of a pilaster. The diameter 
of the columns is four feet and about six inches ; 
their length thirty-nine feet two inches, but includ- 
ing the base and capital forty-six feet and more 
than seren inches. The shafts were fluted, and 
though their dimensions are so great, each of one 
stone. The most entire of. them is broken into two 
pieces. On the frieze was carved a bold foliage 
with boys. The ornaments in general are extreme- 
ly rich, but much injured ^. This perhaps was the 
temple erected at Ephesus hj permission of Augus- 

• 

■ Vitruvius, lib. i. c. 7. 

^ portico] Revett has struck his pen through this word, and writ- 
ten, " the front of the pronaos : a temple in antis has no portico/' 
c Of inferior taste, and the mouldings ill-proportioned. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 158 

tus Caesar to the god Julius, or that dedicated to 
Claudius Caesar on his apotheosis. 

About a mile farther on is a root of Corissus, run- 
ning out toward the plain, and ending in an abrupt 
precipice. Upon this is a square tower, one of many 
belonging to the city wall, and still standing. We 
rode to it along the mountain-side, but that way is 
steep and slippery. Near it are remnants of some 
edifice. Among the bushes beneath we found a 
square altar of white marble, well preserved. On 
the top is an ofieiing, like a pine-apple ; perhaps in- 
* tended to represent a species of cake. On the face 
a ram's head is carved, and a couple of horns filled 
with fruit; the ends twined together. The emi- 
nence commands a lovely prospect of the river Cay- 
ster, which there crosses the plain from near Gralle- 
sus, with a small but full stream, and vidth many 
luxuriant meanders. 

The extent of the city toward the plain, on which 
side it was washed by the Cayster, cannot now be 
ascertained; but the mountainous region has pre- 
served its boundary, the wall erected by Lysima- 
chus, which is of excellent masonry. It may be 
traced from behind the stadium over mount Prion, 
standing often above twenty feet high. It crossed 
the valley, in which is a thick piece, with the gap of 
a gateway ; the stones r^ularly placed, large, rough, 
and hard. FromT thence it ascended mount Coris- 
sus, and is seen ranging along the lofty brow, al- 
most entire, except near the precipice, where it 
ceases.' On mount Prion, which I rambled quite 
over, are likewise remnants of an exterior wall. 
This, from its direction, seems to have descended, 
and enclosed the gymnasium, which was without the 



164 TEAVELS IN ASIA HINOB. 

city ; forming a pomoerium by unitii^ with tte wall 
on Corissus, which begins from a precipice beyond 
the valley. 

The avenues of the ancient cities were commonly 
beset with sepulchres. The vaults of these edifices, 
stripped of their marble, occur near the entrance of 
Ephesus from Aiasaluck» where was once a gate; 
and again by the gymnasium, both on Prion and 
Corissus ; on each side of the approach to the gate 
in the valley ; and also about the abrupt precipice^ 
without the city-wall. The vauUs along the slc^^e 
of Corissus, in the way thither, shew that the Ephe- 
sians buried likewise within the city. It is recorded 
that a sophist of Miletus was interred in the mar- 
ket-place, in the principal part of Ephesus, where 
he had lived. The gate next the sea was that by 
the precipice ; from which, going on at the bottom, 
you come to a gap in mount Corissus^, cut, it is 
likely, to open a commodious way to Neapolis, now 
Scala Nova, and to the places on the coast. The 
gate toward Smyrna was probably in the plain ; for 
the ancient road was over Gallesus. 

Mount Pion, or Prion, is among the curiosities of 
Ionia enumerated by Pausanias ^ It has served as 
an inexhaustible magazine of marble, and contri- 
buted largely to the magnificence of the city. Its 
bowels are excavated. The Ephesians, it is i^lated, 
when they first resolved to provide- an edifice worthy 
of their Diana, were met to agree on importii^ ma- 
terials. The quarries then in use were remote, and 
the expense, it was foreseen, would be prodigious. 

*^ This gap has ail the appearance of being natural, and that 
mount Corissus terminated here. R. 
«P. 210. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 155 

At tins time a shepherd happened to be feeding his 
flock on the mountain ^ and two rams fighting, one 
of them missed his antagonist, and, striking the 
rock with his horn, broke off a crust of very white 
marble. He ran into the city with this specimen, 
which was received with excess of joy. He was high* 
ly honoured for his accidental discovery, and finally 
canonized ; the Ephesians changing his name from 
Pyxodorus to £vangelus. The good messenger; 
and enjoining their chief magistrate, under a pe- 
nalty, to visit the spot, and to sacrifice to him 
oumthly; which custom continued in the age <^ 
Augustus C»sar^. 

The author above cited mentions Prion as a 
jBiountain of a remaiicable nature. He meant per^ 
haps some property of preserving or consuming the 
dead, of which it has been a principal repository. 
In the records of our religion it is ennobled as the 
burying-place of St. Timothy, the companion of St. 
Paul, and the first bishop of Ephesus, whose body 
was afterwards translated to Constantinople by the 
founder of that city, or his son Constantius, and 
placed with St. Luke and St. Andrew in the church 
jot the apostles. The story of St. John the Evange- 
list was deformed in an early age with gross fiction ; 
but he abo was interred at Ephesus, and, as appears 
from one narration, in this mountain \ 

^ Upon what authority ? Vitnivius, though he relates the story, 
does not give us the name of the mountain on which it happened. 
If mount Prion consists of white marble, it is very extraordinary 
it was not discovered sooner, part of the mountain being included 
within the walls of the city. R. 

g Vitruv. lib. x. c. 7. 

^' See Cave. 



156 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

In the side of Prion, not far from the gymna- 
sium, are cavities with mouths, like ovens, made to 
admit the bodies, which were thrust in, head or feet 
foremost. One has an inscription on the plane of 
the rock, beginning, as usual. This is the monu- 
mentf &c. The traces of numerous sepulchres may 
be likewise seen. Then follows, farther on, a wide 
apertiure or two, which are avenues to the interior 
quarries, of a romantic appearance, with hanging 
precipices; and in one is the ruin of a church, of 
brick, the roof arched, the ceiling plaster or stucco, 
painted in streaks corresponding with the mould- 
ings. Many names of persons and sentences are 
written on the wall, in Greek and Oriental charac- 
ters. This perhaps is the oratory or church of St. 
John, which was rebuilt by the emperor Justinian. 
It is still frequented, and had a path leading to it 
through tall strong thistles. Near it are remnants 
of brick buildings, and of sepulchres, with niches 
cut, some horizontally, in the rock. Going on, you 
come to the entrance into Ephesus from Aiasaluck. 
The quarries in the mountain have numberless 
mazes, and vast, awful, dripping caverns. In many 
parts are chippings of marble and marks of the tools. 
I found chippings also above by the mouths, which 
supplied marble for the city-wall; and saw huge 
pieces lying among the bushes at the bottom. The 
view down the steep and solemn precipice was for- 
midable. A flock of crows, disturbed at my ap- 
proach, flew out with no small clamour. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 157 

CHAP. XXXVI. 

OF OLD EPHESUS*— THE CITY OF THE lONIANS — ^AN ORACLE 

—OF ANJ>ROCLUS— THE CITY OF LYSIMACHUS THE PORT 

MODERN HISTORY OF EPHBSUS — ITS DECLINE — ^THB 

PRESENT EPHESIANS ITS DEPLORABLE CONDITION. 

±o complete the local history of Ephesus, we must 
deduce it from a period of remote antiquity. Prion 
had in former times been called Lepre Acte ; and a 
part behind Prion was still called the back qfLepre, 
when Strabo wrote. Smyrna, a portion of the first 
£phesus, was near the gymnasium, behind the city 
of Lysimachus, and between Lepre or Prion, and a 
spot called Tracheia beyond Corissus. When the 
lonians arrived, Androclus, their leader, protected 
the natives, who had settled, from devotion, by the 
temple of Diana, and incorporated some of them 
with his followers; but expelled those who inha- 
bited the town above '. 

The city of Androclus was by the Athenaeum, or 
temple of Minerva, which was without the city of 
Lysimachus^ and by the fountain called Hypelaeus, 
or that under the olive tree ; /taking in part of the 
mountainous region by Corissus, or of Tracheia. 
This was the city which Groesus besieged, and the 
£phesians presented for an offering to their god- 
dess, annexing it by a rope to her temple, which 
was distant seven stadia, or a mile, wanting half a 
quarter. 

It is related, that Androclus, with the Ephesians, 
invaded and got possession of the island of Samos. 
It was then debated, where to fix their abode. An 

' Strabo, p. 633. 640. Pausanias, p. 207. 



158 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

oracle was consulted, and gave for answer, *^ A fish 
** should shew them, and a wild hog conduct them." 
Some fishermen breakfasting on the spot, where af- 
terwards was the fountain called Hypelaeus, near 
the sacred port, one of the fish leaping firom the 
fire with a coal, fell on some chaff, which lighting, 
communicated with a thicket, and the flames dis- 
turbed a wild hog IjHing in it. This animal ran over 
great part of the Tracheia, and was killed witfe a 
javelin, where afterwards was the Athenaeum or tem- 
ple of Minerva K The reverse of a medallion of the 
emperor Macrinus, struck by the Ephesians, which 
has been otherwise interpreted, plainly refers to this 
story K The lonians removed to the continent, and 
founded their city, with a temple of Diana by the 
market-place, and of Apollo Pythius by the port ; 
the oracle having been obtained and fulfilled by the 
favour of these deities. 

Androclus, assisting the people of Priene gainst 
the Carians, fell in battle. His body was carried 
away and buried by the Ephesians. Pausanias re- 
lates, that his monument, on which was placed a 
man armed, continued to be shewn in his time, near 
the road going from the temple of Diana by the 
Olympium, toward the Magnesian gate "*. His pos- 
terity had possessed hereditary honours under Tibe- 
rius Caesar. They were titular kings, wore purple, 
and carried in their hands a wand or sceptre. They 
had, moreover, precedence at the games, and a right 
of admission to the Eleusinian mysteries. 

The temple of IHana, which rose on the contri- 

^ Athenseus, lib. viH. p. 361. 

* See Museum Florentinum, v. 4. pi. Ixi. and v. 6. p. 85. 

™ P. 207. He wrote about the year of the Christian era, 1/5. 



TEATTILS IN ASIA MINOR. 159 

butions of all Agia^ produced a desertion of the city 
of Androclus. The Ephesians came down from the 
mountainous region, or Tracheia^ and settled in the- 
plain by it^ where they continued to- the time of 
Alexander. They were then unwilling to remove 
into the present city ; but a heavy r$in falling, and'. 
Lysimachus stopping the drains, and flooding their 
houses, they were glad to exchange. 

The port had originally a wide mouth, but foul 
with mud, lodged in it from the Cayster. Attalus^ 
Philadelphus and his architects were of opinion, 
that if the entrance were contracted it would be- 
come deeper, and- in time be capable of receiving 
ships of burden. But the eUme, which had before 
been moved by the flux and reflux of the sea^ and 
carried off, being stopped, the whole basin quite to 
the mouth was rendered shallow. The morass, of 
which I had a perfect view from the top of Prion, 
was this port. It communicates with the Cayster, 
as might be expected, by a narrow mouth ; and' at 
the water-edge by the ferry, as well as in other 
places, may be seen the wall intended to embanb 
the stream, and give it force by confinement. The* 
masonry is of the kind termed ineerti^im, in which 
the stones are of various shapes, but nicely joined^ 
The situation was so advantageous as to overbalance* 
the inconveniencies attending the port. The town- 
increased daily, and under the Romans was account- 
ed the most considerable emporium of Asia withiir 
mount Taurus \ 

Toward the end of the eleventh century Ephesus 
experienced the same fortune as Sm3nrna. A Turk- 

n Strabo, p. 641. 



160 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



ish pirate, named Tangripermes, settled there. But 
the Greek admiral, John Ducas, defeated him in a 
bloody battle, and pursued the flying Turks up the 
Maeander. It 1306 it was among the places which 
suffered from the exactions of the grand duke Ro- 
ger; and two years after, it surrendered to sultan 
Saysan, who, to prevent future insurrections, re- 
moved most of the inhabitants to Tyriaeum, where 
they were massacred. The transactions, in which 
mention is made of Ephesus after this period, be- 
long, as has been already observed, to its neighbour 
and successor Aiasaliick. 

Ephesus appears to have subsisted as an inconsi- 
derable place for some time. The inhabitants being 
few, and the wall of Lysimachus too extensive to be 
defended, or too ruinous to be repaired, it was found 
expedient or necessary to contract their boundary, 
by erecting an ordinary wall, which descends from 
near the stadium on one hand, and on the other, 
from the wall on mount Prion ^ toward the morass 
or port, not including the market-place. The diffi- 
culty of rendering even this small portion tenable 
seems to have produced the removal to Aiasaluck, 
as a situation more safe and commodious. A farther 
motive may be added, that the port through time 
and neglect was changed, and become a nuisance, 
rather than of public utility. 

The Ephesians are now a few Greek peasants, 
living in extreme wretchedness, dependence, and in- 
sensibility ; the representatives of an illustrious peo- 
ple, and inhabiting the wreck of their greatness ; 

® Revett has struck his pen through the words "from near the 
** stadium on one hand» and on the other/* and in the next line, 
after " mount Prion/' has added, " and passes by the theatre." 



TflAVErS IK ASIA MINOR. I6l 

• 

some, the substructions of the glorious edifices which 
thej raised; some, beneath the vaults of the sta- 
dium, once the crowded scene of their diversions; ' 
and some, by the abrupt precipice, in the sepulchres, 
which received their ashes. We employed a couple 
of theni to pit6 stones, to serve instead of a ladder, 
at the arch of the stadium, and to clear a pedestal 
of the portico by the theatre from rubbish. We ha J 
occasion for another to dig at the Corinthian temple ; 
and sending to the stadium, the whole tribe, ten oi^ 
twelve, followed ; 6ne playing all the way before thent 
on a rride lyre, and at times striking the sounding- 
board with the fingers of his left hand in concert 
with the strings. One of them h^d on a pair of 
sandals of goat-skin, laced with thongs, and not un- 
common. After gratifying their curiosity, they re- 
turned back as they came, with their musician in 
front. 

Such are the present citizens of Ephestis; and 
such is tlie condition to which that renowned city 
has b6en gradually reduced. It was a ruinous pla06 
when the emperor Justinian filled Constantinople 
with its statues, and raised his church of St. Sophia* 
on its columns. Since then it has been almost qtiite 
exhausted. Its streets are obscured aUd overgi'own. 
A herd of goats wis driven to it iFor shelter from' 
the sun at noon ; and a noisy flight of crows from' 
the quarries seemed to insult its silence. We heard 
the partridge call in the area of the theatte and of* 
the stadium. The glorious pomp of its heathen wor-' 
ship is no longer remembered; and Christianity, 
which was there nursed by apostles, arid fostered by 
general councils, until it increased to fulness of sta- 
ture, barely lingers on in an existence hardly visible. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. M 



162 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

CHAP. XXXVII. 

THB SBLENUSIAN LAKES — ^A FISHEUY — THE CAYSTBR ROAD 

ONGALLESUS ^NBWJLAND PORT PANORMUS — THE ISLAND 

SYRIE. 

In the plain of Ephesus were anciently two lakes p, 
formed partly by stagnant water from the river Se- 
linus, which ran near the Artemisium, or temple of 
Diana, probably from mount Gallesus. The kings 
had taken from the goddess the revenue arising 
from them, which was great; but it was restored 
by the Romans. The publicans then forced her to 
pay taxes. Artemidorus was sent ambassador to 
Rome, and pleaded successfully her privilege of ex- 
emption, for which and his other services the city 
erected a statue o£ him in gold. A temple in a 
bottom by one of the lakes was said to have been 
founded by Agamemnon ^. 

The reader may recollect, that, coming from Cla- 
ros, we crossed the mouth of a lake, and afterwards 
rode along by its side. This was the lower Sele- 
nusia. Near the ferry we discovered the other, a 
long lake, parallel , with the first, and extending 
across the plain. The weir, which we saw, will in- 
form us what were the riches of these waters. Ephe- 
sus was greatly frequented, and the receptacle of all 
who journeyed into the east from Italy and Greece. 
A fishery, so near to so populous a mart, mu^ have 
been an article equally convenient to the city, and 
profitable to the proprietor. Some pieces of build- 



P Templum Dianae coniplexi e diversis regionibus duo Seli- 
nuntes. Pliny, 
1 Strabo, p. 387, 642. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 163 

iog, with cement, remain by the river side- above 
the ferry. 

The river Cayster, after entering the plain, runs 
by Gallesus, and crosses above the lakes, opposite 
the square tower. Lower down, it leaves but a nar- 
row pass, obstructed with thickets at the foot of the 
mountain : it then becomes wider and deeper ; and 
mingles, the stream still and smooth, with the sea. 
On the banks, and in the morass or port, and in the 
lake near the ferry, we saw thick groves of tall 
reeds, some growing above twenty feet high; and 
it is observable, that the river-god is represented on 
the Ephesian medals with this aquatic as one of his 
attributes. 

An ordinary bridge of three arches is built over 
the river, at the foot of Gallesus. The road on that 
mountain has been hewn in the rock. Our Arme- 
nians told us the work was done by St. Paul, with 
a single stroke of a cimeter. Some caravans still 
use it ; crossing the plain and the mouth of the mo- 
rass or port to the gap below the square tower, or 
ferrying over the Cayster lower down in a boat with 
a rope, and proceeding to Scala Nova, without touch- 
ing at Aiasaluck. 

The Cayster has its rise up in the country among 
the hiUs formerly called Cilbianian. It brings down 
many rivers, with a lake' once named the Pega- 
sean ; which was driven into it by the Pyrrhites % 
a furious stream, as may be inferred from the name. 
The slime, which is collected in its course, propa- 
gates new land. The sea once acted by its flux and 
reflux on the port of Ephesus, which has been di- 

' Perhaps that which was seen from mount Gallesus north 
of east. R. » Pliny. 

M 2 



164 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

minished in proportion as the soil has increased and 
become firm ground. The river also has perhaps 
gradually changed its own bed> while it has aug- 
mented the plain. 

The arrangement of this portion of the coast, 
given by Strdbo, is as follows. After Neapolis, 
now Scala Nova, and Phygela, going northward, 
was port Panormus, which boasted the temple of 
the Ephesian Diana ; then the city, which had ar- 
senals and a port ; beyond the mouth of the Cayster 
was a lake, called Selenusia, made Irfr water which 
the sea repelled ; and in the same direction another, 
communicating with it ; then, mount Gallesus. Pa^ 
normus, it is likely, was the general name of the 
whole haven, and comprised both the Sacred Port^ 
or that by which the temple stood, and the City 
Partf now the morass. The former is perlu^)s quite 
filled up. 

Pliny mentions, that, in consequence of the en«- 
croachments of the river on the sea, the island Syrie 
was then seen in the middle of a plain. That island 
was, I suspect, the rock of Aiasaldck K 



CHAP. XXXVIII. 

OF THB TBMPLB OF J>IANA THB IDOLr— ACCOUNT OF IT— 

THB PRIBSTSi &C. — SBLF-MANIFBSTATIONS OF THB GOD- 
DESS — ^AN BPHBSIAN DBCRBB— RBMARKS. 

▼V E would close our account of Ephesu^ with the 
preceding <;hapter, but the curious reader will ask, 

^ the rock of AiasaMck] Revett has drawn his pen through 
these words, and substituted in the margin, " the mount near the 
** banks of the Cayster, between the ferry and the mouth of that 
*• river." 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 165 

What 18 become of the renowned temple of 'Diana? 
Can a wonder of the world be vanished, like a phan- 
tom, without leaving a trace behind? We would 
gladly give a satisfactory answer to such queries; 
but, to our great regret, we searched for the site of 
this fabric to as little purpose as the travellers Who 
have preceded us. 

The worship of the great goddess Diana had 
been established at E^hesus in a remote age. The 
Amazons, it is related, sacrificed to her there, on 
their way to Attica, in the time of Theseus; and 
some Writers affirmed, the image was first set up by 
them under a tree. The vulgar afterwards believed 
it fell down from Jupiter. It was never changed, 
though the temple had been restored seven times. 

This idol, than which none has been ever more 
splendidly enshrined, was of a middling dze, and of 
very great antiquity, as wfts evident from the fa- 
shion, it having the feet closed. It was of wood, 
which some had pronounced cedar, and others ebony. 
Mutianus, a noble Roman, who was the third time 
consul in the year of our Lord seventy-five, affirmed 
from his own observation, that it was vine, and had 
many holes filled with nard to nourish and moisten 
it, and to preserve the cement '*. It was gorgeously 
apparelled ; the vest embroidered with emblems and 
symbolical devices ; and, to prevent its tottering, a 
bar of metal, it is likely of gold, was placed under 
each hand. A veil or curtain, which was drawn up 
from the floor to the ceiling, hid it from view, ex- 
cept while service was performing in the temple. 

The priests of the goddess were eunuchs, and ex* 

» Plinv. 



M S 



166 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

ceediDgly respected by the people. The old insti- 
tutions required that virgins should assist them in 
their office, but, in process of time, these, as Strabo 
has remarked, were not all observed. The titles of 
some of the inferior ministers are perhaps recorded 
on the marble which we found near the entrance of 
the valley ; the sacred herald, the incenser, the player 
on the flute at the libations, and the holy trumpeter^. 
It may be imagined, that many stories of the 
power and interposition of the goddess were current 
and believed at Ephesus. The most striking evi- 
dence of the reality of her existence, and of her re- 
gard for her suppliants, was probably fiirnished by 
her supposed manifestations of herself in visions. In 
the history of Massiliae^, now Marseilles, it is re- 
lated, that she was seen by Aristarche, a lady of 
high rank, while sleeping, and that she commanded 
her to accompany the Greek adventurers, by whom 
that city was founded. Metagenes *, one of the ar- 
chitects of her temple at Ephesus, had invented a 
method of raising the vast stones to the necessary 
height, but it did not succeed so well as was ex- 
pected, with a marble of prodigious size, designed 
to be placed over the doorway. He was excessively 
troubled, and, weary of ruminating, fell asleep, when 
he beheld the goddess, who bade him be comforted, 
she had been his friend. The next day the stone 
was found to have settled, apparently from its own 
weight, as he wished. 

Near the path, after passing the aqueduct at Aia- 
saldck, in our way from Smyrna, we met with a cu- 
rious memorial of the importance of the goddess, 

» Inscript. Ant. p. 11. > Strabo, p. 179. '■ Pliny. 



TBATELS IN ASIA MINOB. 167 

and of the respect paid to her \ It is a decree of 
the Ephesians, inscribed on a slab of white marble, 
and may be thus translated : " To the Ephesian 
*^ Diana. Inasmuch as it is notorious, that not onlj 
** among the Ephesians, but also every where among 
" the Greek nations, temples are consecrated to her, 
** and sacred portions ; apd that she is set up, and 
^* has an altar dedicated to her, on account of her 
** plain manifestations of herself; and that besides, 
^^ the greatest token of the veneration paid her, a 
^^ month is called after her name ; by us Artemision, 
by the Macedonians and other Greek nations, and 
in their cities, Artemisi£n ; in which, general as- 
** semblies and hieromenia are celebrated, but not in 
the holy city, the nurse of its own, the Ephesian, 
goddess : the people of Ephesus deeming it proper 
*^ that the whole month called by her name be sa- 
" cred, and set apart to the goddess, have deter- 
" mined by this decree, that the observation of it 
by them be altered. Therefore it is enacted, that 
in the whole month Artemision the days be holy, 
and that nothing be attended to on them, but 
the yearly feastings, and the Artemisiac panegy- 
*^ ris, and the hieromenia ; the entire month being 
*' sacred to the goddess ; for from this improvement 
" in her worship, our city shall receive additional 
" lustre, and be permanent in its prosperity for ever.'* 
The person who obtained this decree appointed games 
for the month, augmented the prizes of the contend- 
ers, and erected statues of those who conquered. 
His name is not preserved; but he was probably 
a Roman, as his kinsman, who provided this record. 









it 



* Inscript. Ant. p. 13. 
M 4? 



168 TRAVEI^S IK ASIA MINO&. 

was muiied Lucius Pluenius Faiistus. The feast of 
Diana was reported to yearly by the lonians, with 
their families. 

A people convinced that the self-manifestations of 
the deity before mentioned were real, could not easily 
be turned to a religion, which did not pretend to 
9 similar or equal intercourse with its divinity. And 
thi9 perhaps is the true reason, why, in the early 
ages of Christianity, besides the miraculous agency 
of the spirit in prophetic fits of ecstasy, a belief of 
supernatural interposition by the Fanagia, or Vir- 
gin Mary\ and by saints appearing in daily or 
nightly visions, was encouraged and inculcated. It 
helped by its currency to procure and confirm the 
credulous votary, to prevent or refute the cavil of 
the heathen, to exalt the new religion, and to de- 
prive the established of its ideal superiority. The 
superstitions derived on the Greek church from this 
source, in a remote period, and still continuing to 
flourish in it, would principally impede the progress 
of any who should endeavour to convert its mem- 
bers to the nakedness of reformed Christianity. 
Great is the Panagia would be the general cry ; 
and her self-manifestations, like those of Diana an- 
ciently, would even now be attested by many a re- 
putable witness. By what arguments shall a people, 
filled with affectionate regard for her, and feeling 
complacency from their conviction of her attention 
to them, and of her power, be prevailed on to accept 
our rational protestantism in exchange for their fan- 
cied, but satisfactory, revelations ? 

^ See an instance in the year 408. Sozomen, vit. 5. 



TRAVELS IN ASf A UlIKOtt. 169 

CHAP. XXXIX 

THE SPOT CHOSEN FOR THE TBMPXE OF J>IANA — iSKILL OF 
THE ARCHITECTS — ^THE NEW TBMFIJC--*ITS MAONIFICBNCE 

^rHE ASYLUM ^THE TEMPLE NOT IN THE CIT¥-*-PLUN- 

DEREI>— ITS DESTRUCTION UNNOTICED THE SUPPOSED 

&1TE ^A SIBYLLINE PROPHECY. 

The reputatiop and the riches of their Diana had 
made the Ephesians desirous to provide for her a 
magnificent temple. The fortunate discovery of mar-^ 
ble in mount Prion ^ gave them new vigour. The 
cities of Asia, so general was the esteem for the 
goddess, contributed largely; and Croesus was at 
the expense of many of the columns. The spot 
chosen for the building was a marsh, as most likely 
to preserve the structure free from gaps, and unin- 
jured by earthquakes. The foundation was made 
with diarcoal rammed, and with fleeces. The sou- 
terrain consumed immense quantities of marble. The 
edifice was exalted on a basement, with ten steps ^. 
The architects, Ctesiphon of Crete, and Metagenes 
his son, were likewise authors of a treatise on the 
fabric. Demetrius, a servant of Diana, and Peonius, 
an Ephesiati, were said to have completed this work, 
which was two hundred and twenty years about. 

The distance between the site of the temple and 
the quames did not exceed eight thousand feet®; 

<^ Seep. 155. R. 

^ The platform of the peribolus or enclosure, which still re- 
roainSy might be ascended by ten steps. R. 

^ No part of mount Prion is distant four thousand feet from 
the site of the temple ; therefore for millia passuum octo cannot 
be read pedum : but the mountains, which are the southern boun- 
dary of that part of the plain, east of the city, may be eight miles 



170 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and no rising intervened, but the whole space was 
. level plain. Ctesiphon invented a curious machine, 
of which a description is preserved^, for transport- 
ing the shafts of the columns ; fearing, if a carriage 
were laden with a stone so ponderous as each was, 
the wheels would sink deep into the soil. Metage- 
nes adapted his contrivance to convey the archi- 
traves. These were so bulky, that the raising of 
any one of them to its place appeared a miracle. 
It was done by forming a gentle ascent, higher than 
the columns, of baskets filled with sand ; emptying 
those beneath, when the mass was arrived, and thus 
letting it gradually down upon the capitals. By 
this method, the prodigious stone, formerly men- 
tioned, was inserted over the doorway s. 

This temple, which Xerxes spared, was set on 
fire by Herostratus ; but the votaries of Diana prov- 
ed so extravagant in their zeal, that she was a gainer 
by his exploit A new and more glorious fabrfc was 
begun ; and Alexander the Gfreat, arriving at Epfae- 
sus, wished to inscribe it as the dedicator ; and was 
willing, for that gratification, to defray the whole 
expense ; but the Ephesians declined accepting this 
magnificent ofier. The architect then employed was 
the famous projector ,who proposed the forming 
mount Athos, when he had finished, into a statue 
of this king. 

The temple now erected was reckoned the first in 

distant, and probably the quarries might be found there ; if so, 
Vitruvius is right. See page 155. R. 

^ Vitruviusy lib. x. c. 6. where, for millia passuum octo, reaA 
pedum. — ^Millia pedum quinque, lib. x. c, 1 4. or passus mille. 

8 It was done — doorway.] The authority of this passage is re- 
quired, vvhi(!h seems extremely absurd. R. 



tBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 171 

Ionia for magnitude and riches. It was four hun- 
dred and twenty ^ feet long, and two hundred and 
twenty broad. Of the columns, which wa'e sixty 
feet high, one hundred aod twenty-seven were do- 
nations from kings. Thirty-six were carved; and 
one of them, perhaps as a model, by Scopas. The 
order was Ionic, and it had eight columns in front K 
The folding-doors, or gates, had been continued four 
years in glue, and were made of cypress-wood, which 
had been treasured up for four generations, highly 
polished. These were found by Mutianus as fresh 
and as beautiful four hundred years after, as when 
new. The ceiling was of cedar; and the steps for 
ascending the roof, of a single stem of a vine, which 
witnessed the durable nature of that wood. The 
whole altar was in a manner full of the works of 
Praxiteles. The offerings were inestimable, and 
among them was a picture by Apelles, representing 
Alexander armed with thunder, for which he was 
paid twenty talents of gold ^. The structure was 
so wonderfully great in its composition, and so mag- 
nificently adorned, it appeared the work of beings 
more than human. The sun, it is affirmed, beheld 

^ Twenty-five. R. 

' If the temple was two hundred and twenty feet broad, and 
the columns were sixty feet high, it must have had twelve co- 
lumns in front ; for then the pieces of the architrave^ from centre 
to centre ot the columns, would be nineteen feet long, and that 
in the centre intercoiumniation twenty-three feet in length, in 
order to extend the breadth of the edifice to two hundred and 
twenty feet. The distance of nineteen feet from centre to centre 
of column will exactly answer to four hundred and twenty-five 
feet, the length of the temple, supposing the columns to be 
twenty- three in number, and their diameters seven feet R. 

•^ Above 38,750«. English. 



17S TAATSLS IN ASIA MINOK. 

IB ids course no object of mspmar excdence^ ot 
worthier of admiratiaii. 

The temide of Diana had the privil^e of an asy- 
him, or sanctaaiy, before the time of Alexander; 
but he extended it to a stadium^, or half a quarter 
of a mile. Afterwards Mithridates shot an arrow 
from the angle of the pediment, and his boundary 
exceeded the stadium, but not much. Mark Antony 
coming near him, enlarged it so as to comprehend a 
portion of the city ; but that concession proving in- 
conrenient and dangerous, was annulled by Augus- 
tus Caesar. 

We hare mentioned before, that the distance of 
the temple from the quarries did not exceed eight 
thousand feet", and that the whole way was en- 
tirely level. From the detail now given, it appears, 
that the temple was distinct from the present city, 
and the distance may be inferred; for Mark Antony 
allowing the sanctuary to reach somewhat more than 
a stadium ^ from it, a part of the dty was comprised 
within, those limits. It was, moreover, withomt the 
Magnesian gate, which, I should suppose, was that 
next Aiasaluck; mid, in the second century, was 
joined to the dty by Damianus, a sophist, who con- 
tinued the way down to it through the Magnesian 
gate, by erecting a stoa, or portico, of marble, a sta- 
dium**, or six hundred twenty-five feet in length; 
which expensive work was inscribed with the name 
of his wife, and intended to prevent the absence of 
the ministers when it rained. He likewise dedi- 
cated a banqueting-room in the temple, as remark- 

* The stadium. R. «" See p. 1 70. R. 

» Beyond the stadium. R. « Tlie stadium. R. 



TEAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 178 



able for its dimensions as its beauty. It wfis adorned 
with Phrygian niarhle» such as had never been cut 
in the quarries before p. 

The extreme sanctity of the temple inspired uni- 
versal awe and reverence. It was for many ages a* 
i^epository of foreign and domestic treasures. There 
property, whether public or private, was secure 
amid all revolutions. The civility of Xerxes was an. 
e'xample to subsequent conquerors, and the impiety 
of sacrilege was. not extended to the Ephesian god-i 
dess. But Nero was less polite. He removed many 
costly offerings and images, and an immense quan- 
tity of silver and gold. It was again plundered by 
Groths from beyond the Danube, in the time of 6al- 
lienus^; a party under Rilspa crossing the Helles- 
pont, and ravaging the country, until compelled to 
retreat, when they carried off a prodigious booty. 

The destruction of so illustrious an edifice de** 
served to have been carefully recorded by contem- 
porary historians. We may conjecture it followed 
the triumph of Christianity. The Ephesian reform- 
ers, when authorized by the imperial edicts, re- 
joiced in the opportunity of insulting Diana ; and 
deemed it piety to demolish the very ruin of her 
habitation. Hence, perhaps, while the columns of 
the Corinthian temple have owed their preservation 
to their bulk, those of this fabric, with the vast ar- 
chitraves, and all the massive materials, have pe- 
rished and are consumed. Though its stones were 
far more ponderous, and the heap larger beyond 
comparison, the whole is vanished we know not how 
or whither. An ancient author has described it as 

• 

P Philostratus, p. 601. ^ In the year of Christ 262. 



174 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

* 

standing at the head of the port, and shining as a 
meteor. We may add, that as such too it has since 
disappeared. 

It has been supposed, that the souterrain by the 
moriass or city-port, with two pieces of ancient wall, 
of square stone, by one of which is the entrance to 
it, are relics of the temple ; but that spot was nearly 
in the centre of the city of Lysimachus; and be- 
sides, the temple was raised on a lofty basement' 
with steps. The edifice was deemed a wonder, not 
for its form, as at all uncommon, but for the gran- 
deur of its proportions, the excellence of its work- 
manship, and the magnificence of its decorations. 
The vaulted substructions ' by the stadium might, it 
is beUeved, furnish an area corresponding better with 
this idea, and more suited to receive the mighty fa- 
bric ; which, however, it has been* shewn above, 
was in the plain, and distinct, though not remote, 
from the present city. 

A writer *, who lived toward the end of the se- 
cond century, has dted a sibyl as foretelling, that, 
the earth opening and quaking, the temple of Diana 

' Area. R. 

" These vatilted substructions are in the plain, and support an 
area high on all sides above the level of the ground, but on -this 
upwards of thirty feet, which, from its extent in length and 
breadth, may be judged capable of including the peribolus or en- 
closure of the temple. The opposite side of this area joins to the 
foot of mount Prion, and extends itself parallel with the stadium, 
near the length of it, forming a hollow way between them about 
forty feet wide and eight feet deep, scattered over with broken 
pedestals and bases of columns, probably the remains of the 
peristyle erected by Damianus, the length of the stadium. R. 

^ Clemens Alexandrinus, tom. i. p. 44. See the Sibylline 
Verses, lib. v. p. 607. 



TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 175 

would be swallowed, like a ship in a storm, into the 
abyss : and Ephesus lamenting and weeping by the 
river banks, would inquire for it, then inhabited no 
more^ If the authenticity of the oracle were undis-* 
puted, and the sibyl acknowledged a genuine pro- 
phetess, we might infer, from the visible condition 
of the place, the full accomplishment of the whole 
prediction. We now seek in vain for the temple; 
the city is prostrate ; and the goddess gone. 



CHAP. XL. 

WE LEAVB AIASALUCK ROAD TO SCALA NOVA — OF PHYGBLA 

OF ORTYGIA THE LOWER WAY TO SCALA NOVA — 

CHANGES-^OF SCALA NOVA. 

A.FTER staying at Aiasaliick four days, we set out 
at half past seven in the morning, with a guide on 
an ass, for Neapolis, or Scala Nova, distant three 
hours. The plain was covered with mud and slime 
from the recent inundation. It produces com, cot- 
ton, sesamus, and tobacco ; but in several places was 
swampy, and overgrown with rushes and reeds. 
Flocks, and herds, and camels were feeding on it. 
We had Ephesus, and the morass or port, on our 
left hand, until we were opposite the square tower, 
which has been mentioned as standing on a preci- 
pice. 

We came in an hour to the gap in Corissus, and 
left the plain behind; our course winding south- 
westward, and the castle of Aiasaldck bearing 10™. 
north of east. We soon had the back of Corissus 
on our left hand, with the exterior front of the city- 



176 TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOB. 

waU, high in the air, on the ridge, which is steep 
and inaccessible. On the mountain, between the 
gap and the sea, are likewise traces of a wall. Be- 
fore us was A jdeasant valley, with a Turkish burj- 
ing-ground, and a village named Arvisia beyond a 
mean, ruinous aqueduct, which the road approaches, 
and then becomes rough and rugged ; leading over 
the rock, in view of the sea, of the mouth of the 
Cayster, and of the extremity of the plain of Ephe- 
sus ; into which a track descends, crossing a piece 
of wet low ground at the end of the mountain. We 
met a peasant on an ass laden with grapes, and pur- 
chased some of admirable flavour. 

Groing on southward, we passed under a fragment 
of a wall^ which appears, from the earthen pipes 
in it, to have conveyed water across the road fit>m 
the mountain on our left, which had a channel still 
in use, running a consideraUe way along its side. 
Near this remnant, on our right, were vestiges of a 
small town, Pygela, or Phygela, upon a hilL There 
was once a temple of Diana, founded, as they re- 
lated, by Agamemnon. He was said to have touched 
at this place, in his voyage homeward, and to have 
left behind some of his mai, who were disabled by 
rowing. The wine of Phygela is commended by 
Dioscorides ; and its territory was now green vnth 
vines. We had remarked, that about Smjrrna the 
leaves were decayed, or stripped by the camels and 
herds of goats, which are admitted to browse after 



' Descending from the mountain, we passed first the head of 
a bay with a rivulet, the aqueduct on our left, then Phygela, and 
after that the fragment of wall. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 177 

the vintage. We came soon after in sight of the 
sea and of Scala Nora. 

In the Ephesian decree, inserted in a precedii^ 
chapter^ the dty is stiled the nurse qf her awn 
goddess. The local story was, that Latona had 
been delivered of her in Ortygia, a beautiful grove 
of trees of various kinds, chiefly cypresses, near 
Ephesus^ on the coast, a little up from the sea. 
This place was filled with shrines and images. A 
general assembly was held there yearly ; and splen- 
did entertainments were provided, and mystic sacri- 
fices solemnised. The Cenchrius, probably a crooked 
river, ran through it ; and above it was the moun- 
tain Solmissus, on which, it was fabled, the Curetes 
stood and rattled on their shields, to divert the at- 
tention of Juno y. 

As the site of Ortygia is marked by a mountain 
and a river, we expected to discover it without 
much d^culty; and with that view preferred, in 
our second journey from Ephesus, the Iowct way to 
Scala Nova, going from the gymnasium, where we 
had pitched our tent, to the extremity of the plain, 
and then along by the sea. We came in sight of 
the town sooner than before, and turned into the 
road near Phygela, a little beyond the broken wall, 
without meeting with any thing remarkable. 

The improved face of a country is perishable, like 
human beauty. Not only the birthplace of Diana 
and its sanctity are forgotten, but the grove and 
buildings which adorned it appear no more : and, 
perhaps, m I have since suspected, the land has en- 
croached on the sea, and the valley, in which Ar- 

y Strabo, p. 639. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. N 



178 TRAVELS IX ASIA MINOR. 

▼isia is» was once Qrtjgia. The houses of Damia^ 
nus, in the suburbs of the city, with the pleasant 
plantations on his estate, and the artificial islands 
and portlets which he made bj the .seaside, are all 
now equally, invisible. 

Scala Nova, called by the Turks Koushadase, is 
situated in a bay, on the slope of a hiU, the houses 
rising one above another, intermixed with minarees 
and tall slender cypresses. A street through which 
we rode was hung with goat-skins exposed to dry, 
dyed of a most lively red. At one of the fountains 
is an ancient coffin, used as a cistern. The port 
was filled with small-craft. Before it is an old for- 
tress on a ropk or islet, frequented by gulls and sea- 
mews. By the water-side is a large and good khan, 
at which we passed a night on our return. This 
place belonged once to the Ephesians, who ex- 
changed it with the Samians for a town in Caria. 

We shall conduct the reader to the confines of 
Ionia with Caria, by the route we pursued in our 
first journey, and then return again to Scala Nova. 



CHAP. XLI. 

WB CONTINUE OUR JOURNBT — MOUNT MYCALE AND TR06I- 

UUM — ^AT SUKI ^WB PASS PRIBNB — FBRPtBXBD IN THE 

PLAIN. 

vVe arrived at Scala Nova from Aiasaluck at about 
eleven in the morning, and drank cofiee, while our 
men procured provisions to carry with us. We 
mounted again at twenty minutes before twelve, 
and leaving an aqueduct, with a road leading to- 
ward the sea, on our right hand, passed over a 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 179 

broken causey to a viUage pleasantly situated on a 
hill covered with vines, called Cornea. We had fre- 
quent views of the coast, and of the adjacent islands. 
Twenty minutes after two we stopped at a fountain 
of excellent water, by which is a coffee-house, with 
a shady tree, where we dined. 

We went on at half after three, and in ten mi- 
nutes overlooked a beautifiil cultivated plain, lying 
low beneath us, bounded by the sea and by Mycale, 
a mountain, now, as anciently, woody, and abound- 
ing in wild beasts. The promontory, once called 
Trogilium ^, runs out toward the north end of Sa^ 
mos, which was in view, and meeting a promontory 
of the island, named Posidium, makes a strait only 
seven stadia, or near a mile wide. The city of Sa- 
mos was toward the south, forty stadia, or five miles, 
from Trogilium. The passage from this cape to 
Sunium in Attica was sixteen hundred stadia, or 
two hundred miles *. 

We met several strings of slow, melancholy ca- • 
mels, and numerous flocks of goats. The hiUs were 
covered with a short vierdure from the late rains. 
Before us were lofty mountains. Entering within 
the range, we had Mycale on our right hand, and 
on our left the termination of mount Pactyas and 
of mount Messogis ; the latter, which was once fa- 
mous for wine, reaching hither from Celaenae in 
Phrygia, bounding the plain on the north side of 
the river Maeander. The road was broken and 
rough. As we advanced, the passage widened ; and 

* Before Trogilium was an islet of the same name. Pliny 
reckons three Trogiliae : Psilon, the Naked ; Argennon, the 
White; Sandalion, the Sandal, See a chart in Tournefort, v. I". 

" Strabo, p. 636. 



180 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

we had on oar right a water-course. We disco- 
yered the dome and minaret of a mosqae, with a 
€3rpre8S-tree or two before os ; and ten minutes after 
five came to Suki, a Turkish village by a plain. 
We were lodged in a mean carayansera, with mud 
waUs. 

In the morning it lightned and rained; with 
awfiil thunder, at intervals, on the mountain-tops, 
which were enveloped in fleecy clouds. We left 
the village at seven, and travelled along by the foot 
of Mycale, on the edge of the plain, which is very 
extensive, and skirted round with mountains. My- 
cale rose very high on our right hand, appearing as 
a single ridge, with many villages <m its side. By 
the way were flowering shrubs, and we enjoyed the 
fragrance and dewy freshness of spring in autumn. 
We came in two hours near Kelibesh, where our 
gui^e was bemired. From tiiis place we aft;erwards 
examined the ruins of Priene, which we now passed ; 
and at a quarter before eleven turned to the left, 
slanting over the fisin toward Palat or Miletus, 
which was in view. Behind us was a village named 
Aurtboi^si, bearing 15™. east of north. 

Our guide had mistaken his way, and led us on 
too far by the foot of Mycale. This occasioned us 
much perplexity in the plain, where in twenty-five 
minutes we came to the water-course, which winds 
before Priene. The bed was wide, almost dry, and 
the banks steep. After crossing again and again, 
it still continued to meet us, and to become more 
and more formidable, until we were quite at a loss 
how to proceed, when fortunately we espied some 
low scattered huts made of reeds, and procured a 
peasant to conduct us. He waded over, and in- 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 181 

formed us this was caHed Cali-bech-osmoc^ the little 
River. The water appeared stagnant. After pass* 
ing it six times in an hour and twenty minutes, we 
left it on the «right hand, and went on without far- 
ther obstacle across the plain, with the theatre of 
Miletus in view before us. At ten minutes after 
one we were ferried over the Maeander, now called 
Mendres, below it, in a triangular- float, with a rope. 
The man was a black, and in his features strongly 
resembled a satyr. The stream was smooth and 
placid, but muddy. 



CHAP. XLII. 

THB THEATRS AT MILETUS INSCRIPTION ON THE WALL — 

OTHER REMAINS — THE MOSQUE, &C. MODERN HISTORY 

OF MILETUS ITS ANCIENT GREATNESS. 

JVliLETUS is a very mean place, but still called 
Palat or Palatia, the Palaces. The principal reUc 
of its former magnificence is a ruined theatre, which 
is visible afar off, and was a most capacious edifice, 
measuring in front four hundred and fifty-seven feet. 
The external face of this vast fabric is marble, and 
the stones have a projection near the upper edge, 
which, we surmised, might contribute to the raising 
them with facility. The seats ranged, as usual, on 
the slope of a hill, and a few of them remain. The 
vaults, which supported the extremities of the semi- 
circle, with the arches or avenues in the two wings, 
are constructed with such solidity as not easily to 
be demolished. The entrance of the vault or sub- 
straction, on the left side, was filled up with soil ; 
but we examined that next the river ; one of our 

n3 



182 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

Armenians going before us with a candle in a long 
paper lantern. The moment we had crept in, in- 
numerable large bats began flitting about us. The 
stench was hardly tolerable ; and the . commotion of 
the air, with the apprehensions of our attendant, 
threatened us with the loss of our light. After we 
had gone a considerable way in, we found the pas- 
sage choked with dry filth, and returned. 

On the side of the theatre next to the river is an 
inscription ^ in mean characters rudely cut, in which 
" the city Miletus** is mentioned seven times. This 
is a monument of heretical Christianity. One Basi- 
lides, who lived in the second century, was the 
founder of an absurd sect called BasiUdians and 
Gnostics, the original proprietors of the many gems, 
with strange devices and inscriptions, intended to 
be worn as amulets or charms, with which the ca- 
binets of the curious now abound. One of their 
idle tenets was, that the appellative " Jehovah*' pos- 
sessed signal virtue and eflScacy. They expressed 
it by the seven Greek vowels, which they transposed 
into a variety of combinations. The superstition 
appears to have prevailed in no smaU degree at Mi- 
letus. In this remain the mysterious name is fre- 
quently repeated, and the deity six times invoked. 
Holy Jehovah, preserve the town of the Mile- 
sians, and all the inhabitants.'* The archangels 
also are summoned to be their guardians, and the 
whole city is made the author of these supplica- 
tions; from which, thus engraved, it expected, as 
may be presumed, to derive lasting prosperity, and 
a kind of talismanical protection. 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 16, 17. 



it 

tt 



it 
t( 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 183 

The whole site of the town, to a great extent, is 
spread with rubbish, and overrun with thickets. 
The vestiges of the heathen city are pieces of wall, 
broken arches, and a few scattered pedestals, and 
inscriptions S a square marble urn, and many wells. 
One of the pedestals has belonged to a statue of the 
emperor Hadrian, who was a friend to the Mile- 
sians, as appears from the titles of saviour and bene- 
factor bestowed on him. Another has supported the 
emperor Severus, and has a long inscription, with 
this curious preamble : *^ The senate and people of 
the city of the Milesians, the first settled in Ionia, 
and the mother of many and great cities both in 
Pontus and Egypt, and in various other parts of 
** the world." This lies among the bushes behind 
the theatre. Near the ferry is a large lion in a 
couchant posture, much injured ; and in a Turkish 
burjdngrground another. These were placed on 
graves, or perhaps before a building for ornament. 
Some fragments of ordinary churches are inter- 
spersed among the ruins ; and traces remain of an 
old fortress erected upon the theatre, beneath which 
is a square enclosure, designed, it seems, as a station 
for an armed party to dispute or defend the passage 
of the river. Several piers of a mean aqueduct are 
standing. The fountain named from Biblis, with 
the scene of the stories concerning her passion, was 
in the territory of Miletus. A marble quarry, if I 
mistake not, is discernible on the mountain, which 
bounds the plain on the left hand, at a distance to- 
ward the sea. 

From the number of forsaken mosques, it is evi- 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 16, 17. 

N 4 



184 TRAYiXS IK ASIA MINOH. 

dent» that MahomeUnism has flourished ia its turn 
at Miletus. All these have been mean buildiiigs 
and mere patchwork ; bat one, a noUe saod beairti- 
fill structure of marble, is in use, and the dome, with 
a tall palm-tree or two, towers amid the ruins and 
some low flat-roofed cottages, inhabited by a very- 
few Turidsh fiunilies, the present citizens of Mi- 
letus. 

The history of this place, after the declensicm of 
the Greek empire, is very imperfect. The whc4& 
region has undergone frequent ravages from the 
Turks, while possessed of the interior country, and 
intent on extending theur conquests westward to 
the shore. One sultan in 1175 sent twenty thou- 
sand men, with orders to lay waste the Roman pro- 
vinces, and bring him sea-water, sand, and an oar. 
All the cities on the Maeander and on the coast 
were then ruined. Miletus was again destroyed to- 
ward the end of the thirteenth century by the con- 
quering Othman. 

Miletus was once exceedingly powerful imd illus- 
trious. Its early navigators extended its commerce 
to remote r^ons. The whole Euxine sea, the Pro- 
pontis, Egypt, and other countries, were frequented 
by its ships, and settled by its colonies. It boasted 
a venerable band of memorable men ; Hecataeus, an 
early historian, and Thales, the father of philoso* 
phy. It withstood Darius, and refused to admit 
Alexander. It has been stiled the metropolis and 
head of Ionia ; the bulwark of Asia ; chief in war 
and peace; mighty by sea; the fertile mother, 
which had poured forth her children to every quar- 
ter, counting not fewer than seventy-five cities de- 
scended from her. It afterwards fell so low as to 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOR. 185 

fornisb a proveidbial sajring, << The Milesians were 
** once great :" but if we compare its ancient glory, 
and that its subsequent humiliation, with its present 
state, we may justly exclaim, Miletus, how much 
lower art thou now fallen ! 



CHAR XLIII. 

THS A6A OF SUKI'-^^IO URA-^^FO BRANCHIDiB— PORT PANOR- 
MUS — ^A WATER THERE — RUIN OF THE TEMPLE OF APOIXO 
DIDYMiEUS— OTHER REMAIN^. 

W^HILE we were employed on the theatre of Mi- 
letus^ the aga of Suki, son4n-law by marriage to 
Elez-C^lu, crossed the plain towards us, attended by 
a considerable traip of domestics and officers, their 
vests and turbans of various and lively colours, 
mounted on long-tailed horses, with shewy trap* 
pings and glittering fiimiture. He returned, after 
hawking, to Miletus, and we went to visit .him, with 
a present of coffee and sugar; but were told that 
two favourite birds had flown away, and that he 
was vexed and tired. A couch was pifpa;^ for 
him beneath a shed made against a cott^e, and 
covered with green boughs to keep off the sun. He 
entered as we were standing by, and fell down on 
it to sleep, without taking any notice of us. We 
rambled over the ruins until he awoke, when we 
were again admitted. He was sitting on a carpet, 
cros^legged, with a hooded falcon on his knee, and 
another, which he stroked often and caressed, before 
him on a stand. Round about him were dogs and 
horses. The Armenian, who interpreted for us, of- 
fered him our firhman ; but he said, it was sufficient 



186 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

that he knew our country; that the English and 
Turks were brethren. He examined our weapons 
with attention ; discoursed on them and our apparel, 
expressed regret that he was unable to entertain us 
so well as he wished, and promised us a letter of 
recommendation to the aga of Melasso. We were 
treated each with a pipe and dish of coffee ; after 
which, making our obeisance, we retired, well pleas- 
ed with his manly politeness and civility. In the 
morning he sent the letter, and a little old man, a 
Turk, who had been a camel-leader, and was well 
acquainted with the roads, to be our guide. 

We set out at twenty minutes before eight ^ for 
Ura, or Urada, where we expected to find the ruins 
of Branchidae, a place famous for a most magnifi- 
cent temple dedicated to Apollo Didymseus. Near 
the city-gate, going thither, on the left hand of the 
road, was once the monument of Neleus, a leader of 
the lonians, and founder of Miletus. This was pro- 
bably a barrow. We saw no traces of the city-wall. 
In half an hour the plain ended, and we came to a 
range of hills ®, called anciently mount Latmus ; and 
soon after Jto a poor village of Greeks named Auctui, 
where we stayed an hour to procure fowls, e^s, 
and other provisions, to be carried with us. At ten 
we had passed a heathy vale by the sea, and then 
crossing a high ridge, had in view some columns of 
the temple, which are yet standing. The road was 
over the mountain among low shrubs, chiefly the 
arbutus, then laden with fruit, like strawberries, 

•^ After eight. R. 

^ These hills join to Grias on the south side of the lake, and 
are nothing more than the roots or excrescences of that moun- 
tain. R. 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 187 

large and tempting; the colour a lively red^ the 
taste luscious and woody «. Before us was a small 
inlet or gulf on the north side of the promontory 
Posidium, on which the temple is situated. We 
came to the head of it, and turning up in a valley, 
arrived about twelve at Ura, where are a few strag- 
gling huts. 

A peasant of Ura undertook to conduct us to the 
ruins, which are half an hour distant. We proceeded 
without dismounting, and on a sudden a wild bull \ 
roaring, rushed out of a thicket, close by the road, 
and made furiously at our guide. The man, who 
was before us on foot, turning nimbly round some 
bushes, eluded the attack. This terrible animal had 
for some time infested that district. 

In descending from the mountain toward the gulf, 
I had remarked in the sea something white on the 
farther side; and going afterwards to examine it, 
found the remain of a circular pier belonging to the 
port, which was called Panormus. The stones, 
which are marble, and about six feet in diameter, 
extend from near the shore; where are traces of 
buildings, probably houses, overrun with thickets of 
myrtle, mastic, and evergreens. 

Some water occurring fifteen minutes from Ura, 
and presently becoming more considerable, I traced 
it to the gulf, which it enters at the head, after a 
very short course, full and slow. This was anciently 
supposed to have its source on mount Mycale, and to 
pass the sea in its way to port Panormus, by which 
it emerged opposite to Branchidae. 

f Pale red. R. 

6 Pliny calls it pamum inhonorum. Nat. Hist. xv. 24. 

^ Mad bull. R. 



188 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 

The temple of Apcdlo was dgfateen or twenty 
stadia^ or about two miles and a half, from the shoie ; 
and one hundred and eighty stadia, or twenty-two 
miles and a half, from Miletus K It is approached 
by a gentle ascent, and seen afar off; the land to- 
ward the sea lying flat and leveL The memory oif 
the pleasure which this spot afforded me will not be 
soon or easily erased. The columns yet entire are 
so exquisitely fine, the marble mass so vast and no- 
ble, that it is impossible perhaps to conceive greater 
beauty and majesty of ruin. At evening, a large 
flock of goats, returning to the fold, their bells tink- 
ling, spread over the heap, climbing to browse on 
the shrubs and trees growing between the huge 
stones. The whole mass was illuminated by the 
declining sun with a variety of rich tints, and cast 
a very strong shade. The sea, at a distance, was 
smooth and shining, bordered by a mountainous 
coast, with rocky islands. The picture was as de^ 
licious as striking. A view of part of the heap, 
with plates of the architecture of this glorious edi- 
fice, has been engraved and published, with its his- 
tory, at the expense of the society of Dilettanti. 

We found among the ruins, which are extensive, 
a plain stone dstem, covered, except an end, with 
soil ; many marble coflins, unopened, or with the 
li^s broken ; and one, in which was a thigh bone ; 
all sunk deep in earth : with five statues, near each 
other, in a row, almost buried. In the stubble of 
some Turkey wheat were a number of bee-hives, 
each a long hollow trunk of wood headed like a bar- 
rel, piled in a heap. An Armenian, who was with 

* Following the windings of the seacoast. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 189 

me, <m our potting up a hare, to my surprise slunk 
away. This animal, as I was afterwards informed, 
is held in abomination by that people, and the see^ 
ing it accounted an ill omen. 



CHAP. XLIV. 

AT THE TBMPIJS — AT URA IGNORANCE OF THE TURKS — 

THEIR HUTS ^WE CONTINUE OUR JOURNEY — ^THE CON- 
FINES OF IONIA WITH CARIA. 

T^H£ temple of ApoUo Didymeus seeming likely to 
detain us some time, we regretted the entire soli- 
tude of the spot, which obliged us to fix our quar- 
ters at Ura. Our Armenian cook, who tarried there 
with our baggage, sent us provisions ready dressed^ 
and we dined under a shady tree by the ruins. Our 
horses were tied, and feeding by us. Our camel- 
leader testi^ed his benevolence and regard, by fre- 
quent tenders of his short pipe, and of coffee, which 
he made unceasingly, sitting cross-legged by a small 
fire. The crows settled in large companies round 
about, and the partridge called in the stubble. 

At our return in 4;he evening to Ura, we found 
two fires, with our kettles boiling, in the open air, 
amid the huts and thickets. A mat was spread for 
us on the ground by one of them. The Turks of 
Ura, about fourteen in number, some with long 
beards, sitting cross-legged, helped to complete the 
grotesque circle. We were lighted by the moon, 
then full, and shining in a blue ck)ud]ess sky. The 
Turks smoked, talked, and drank coffee with great 
gravity, composure, and deliberation. One enter- 
tained us with playing on the Turkish guitar, and 



190 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

with uncouth singfaig. The thin-yoiced womeo, 
curious to see us, glided as ghosts across the glades, 
in white, with their faces muffled. The assemblage 
and the scene was uncommonly wild, and as solemn 
as savage. 

The attention and knowledge of our guests was 
wholly confined to agriculture, their flocks and herds. 
They called the ruin of the temple an old castle, 
and we inferred from their answers to our inquiries 
about it, that the magnificence of the building had 
never excited in them one reflection, or indeed at- 
tracted their observation, even for a moment. Our 
discourse, which was carried on by interpreters, not 
very expert in the Italian language, soon became 
languid and tiresome ; and the fatigues of the day 
contributed to render repose and silence desirable. 

We retired after supper to one of the huts, which 
was near the fire, and, like the rest, resembled a 
soldier's tent, being made with poles inclining, as 
the two sides of a triangle, and thatched with straw ^. 
It was barely a covering for three persons lying on 
the ground. The furniture was a jar of salted olives, 
at the farther end. Our men slept round the fire, 
and wafclied some hours for an opportunity to shoot 
the bull, which twice came near the huts, allured 
by the cattle. He then changed his haunt, remov- 
ing to a thicket at a distance, where we frequently 
saw him, or heard him roar. The vineather as yet 
was clear and pleasant, and the sun powerftil. We 
drooped with heat at noon, but at night experienced 
cold, and in the morning our thatch was dripping 
with W(Bt. 

The disorders which began to prevail among us, 

k Reeds. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MTNOB« 191 

required a speedy exchange of the thickets for spme 
lodging less damp and chilly. We renewed our 
journey, after two entire days, with satisfaction; 
leaving the temple at eleven, on a Friday, and tra- 
velling nearly south-eastward over low stony land 
covered with tufts or bushes. ^Before us was the 
mountain anciently called Onus, a high craggy 
range, parallel to mount Latmus; then stretching 
from the Milesian territory eastward through Caria 
as far as Euromus, which was on the seacoast, and 
once a place of some consequence ^ 

We came in two hours and a half to a deep bay, 
formerly called Sinus JSasilicus^ on the south side 
of Podidium. The road for twenty minutes was on 
the beach. We tarried under a tree near a small 
peninsula, on which was a hut or two, while our 
Turks performed the devotions customary on their 
sabbath. We then entered between the mountains, 
the boundary now, as we were told, of the jurisdic^ 
tion of Elez-Oglu, and anciently of Ionia. 

We now return to Scala Nova, or Neapolis. 



CHAP. XLV. 

OF THJB lONIANS — THEIR GENERAL ASSEMBLY FANIONIUM 

STORY OF THE CITY HELICE. 

On the arrival of the Ionian adventurers from the 
European continent, the people which before pos- 
sessed the country retired* or were expelled. The 

' Before us — consequence.] Revett has substituted the follow- 
ing words : " On the left hand was the mountain anciently called 
*• Grius ; and before us a craggy range which terminated the south 
" side of a deep bay." 



192 TftATELS IN ASIA MIKOR. 

Cariam had settled about Miletas» Mycale, and Ephe- 
sus; and the Ldeges on the side toward Phocaea. 
Their sepiikhres and castles, with vestiges of their 
towns, remained for many ages, and some are per- 
haps even now extant. 

The Ionian cities on the ccmtinent were, as has 
been mentioned, ten in number, not redoming Smyr- 
na. These, with Chios and Samos, gloried in their 
name ; and to preserve the memory of their common 
origin, to promote amity and concord, and to fEidli- 
tate their union for mutual defence, when occasion 
should require, instituted a general assembly, in 
which their deputies or representatives had power to 
propose and enact decrees, to debate and to deter-- 
mine on the interests of the community. 

The place, where this famous council, called the 
Panionian, met, was on the coast named Trogilia, 
three stadia, or a quarter of a mile and a half, from 
the shore. It was a portion of mount Mycale, named 
Panionium, fronting the north, in the territory of 
Priene, selected by the Ionic body, and consecrated 
to Neptune Heliconius. The cities jointly sacrificed 
to that deity at the season of the congress. The ce- 
remony is represented on the reverse of a medallion 
of the emperor Grallus, struck by the Colophonians. 
The thirteen deputies are there seen, each with his 
right hand uplifted, or in the act of supplication, 
standing round an altar, with fire, and a bull before 
the image and temple"^. If the victim lowed while 
dragging to the altar, it was deemed a good omen. 

The Prieneans were descended from the lonians 



"^ See Museum C. Albani, vol. ii. pi. 80. and p. 42. The deity 
is there supposed to be Apollo Clarius. 



TBATELS IK ASIA MINOB. 19^ 

of Helice in Achiiia, and introduced the worship of 
this god. They had petitioned their mother-city to 
transmit to them an image of him^ and a pUn of his 
temjAe, intaiding to erect one on the same mo^l, 
but were refused. They then dt>tained from the 
Adiaean community a decree in their favour ; and 
Helice not complying with it, Neptune, it is relat^ds 
grew angry, and in the following winter that city 
was swallowed up by an inundation of the sea and an 
earthquake. This event happened in the nighty two 
years before the battle of Leuctra. The Adieeans 
then delivered to the lonians the plan they had re- 
quested. A young man was appointed by the Pri* 
eneans to predide at the rites, as sacrificing king^ 
during the festival. 



CHAP. XLVI. 

WB S3ET OUT FROM SCALA NOVA-<i-SBPABATX AND LOSB OU& 
WAY-^BBMGHTED ON MOUNT MY€AJUB-««-GOATit&|gpS— ^9 
CHANGLBB — lO PANIONIUM-— TO KBUBBSH. 

Ik going from Scala Nova toward Miletus, as related 
in a preceding chapter, we had in view on the right 
hand the coast called Trogilia, and the promontory. 
We then passed Priene, that journey having for its 
principal ofcgect the temple of Apollo Didymaeus. 
On our second arrival at Scala Nova from Ephesus, 
we resolv^ to proceed to Priene by Changlee, or 
as was supposed, Panionium. That village is dis- 
tant about three hours from Scala Nova. We stop- 
ped at the khan, while our men purchased provi- 
sions ; and set forward, at four in the afternoon, with 
a guide from the town, who put us into the road, 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. O 



I9i TKAYELS IN ASIA MINOK. 

which we have mentioDed as leading toward the sea, 
and then returned. 

We passed, after descending to the water-side, 
^ along the edge of the bay, and near a ruined castle 
on a hill in the plain. Our janizary was mounted 
on a free horse, and we, to keep pace with him, se- 
parated from our servants, who followed with our 
baggage behind ■^. It was dusk, and Changlee lying 
up from the sea, escaped our observation. We ex- 
pected to arrive there every minute, and rode on, 
until we came to the foot of mount Mycale, and the 
beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we dis- 
covered a track with a gate before it, and went on, 
not doubting but the village was near. Steep suc- 
ceeded steep ; ^he way slippery, uneven, often wind- 
ing about vast chasms, or close by the brink of tre- 
mendous precipices, with the sea rolling beneath. 

We were benighted and perplexed, the track not 
being distinguishable, though the moon began to 
shine. We dismounted to lead our horses, when 
the janizary, who was a fat bulky man, and dis- 
tressed by the bushes which entangled in his long 
garments, bemoaned his situation in broken Italian, 
with the most plaintive accents. We still persever- 
ed, suffering now from thirst even more than from 
fatigue, and at length heard the sound of water in 
a nook below us, when the moments seemed hours 
as we descended to it. After, this refreshment we 
pushed on as well as we . coijild, expecting to meet 
soon with some house or village, and commiserating 

" Mr. Chandler rode oflf full speed, we knew not why ; our ja- 
nizary seeing that, followed him, and we the janizary, being un- 
willing to break company, and left our servants and bagg&ge be- 
hind. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 195 

our men and horses embroiled, as we conceived, with 
our ba^age on the mountain behind us. 

About two in the morning our whole attention 
was fixed by the barking of dogs, which, as we ad*- 
vanced, became exceedingly furious. Deceived by 
the light of the moon, we now fancied we could 
see a village, and were much mortified to find only 
a station of poor goatherds, without even a shed, 
and nothing for our horses to eat. They were lying, 
wrapped in their thick capots or loose coats, by some 
glimmering embers, among the bushes in a dale, 
under a spreading tree by the fold. They received 
us hosjRtably, heaping on fresh fuel, and producing 
caimac, or sour curds, and coarse bread, which they 
toasted for us on the coals. We made a scanty meal 
sitting on the ground, lighted by the fire and by the 
moon ; after which, sleep suddenly overpowered me. 
On waking, I found my two comjpanions by my side, 
sharing in the comfortable cover of the janizary's 
cloak, which he had carefully spread over us. I was 
now much struck with the wild appearance of the 
spot. The tree was hung with rustic utensils ; the 
she*goats, in a pen, sneezed and bleated, and rustled 
to and fro ; - the shrubs, by which our horses stood, 
were leafless, and the earth bare ; a black caldron 
with milk was simmering over the fire ; and a figure 
more than gaunt or savage, dose by us, was strug- 
gling on the ground with a kid, whose ears he had 
slit, and was endeavouring to cauterize with a piece 
of red hot iron. 

We had now the mortification to hear that our 
labour was fruitless, and that we must return the 
way we came, both we and our horses fasting. We 
left the goatherds, and found the track, which we 



196 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

had passed in the dark^ full of danger even by day. 
We consumed near four hours on the mountain in 
going back. Descending ftom it to the beach, we 
espied one of our Armenians, who was seeking us 
with a guide. They conducted us to Giaur-Changlee, 
a small Greek village near a shallow stream. By the 
way was a mean church, with a ruined inscription in 
the pwtico. We were welcomed by our men, who 
were waiting in great perplexity and anxiety at the 
house of the papas or priest. They had been out the 
whole night in quest of us, dischaiging thdr guns 
and pistols, hoping the report would reach us ; but 
in vain. We rested at Changlee the remainder of the 
day. 

The next morning, April the 9th, it rained ; but 
about ten we mounted, and leaving the bay on our 
left hand, proceeded with a guide toward Mycale. 
We soon came to Turkish Changlee, which is seated 
higher up by a stream, then rapid and turbid. I saw 
by the mosque an inscription, which I wished to 
copy, but was acddentaUy the last of our caravan ; 
and, after our late adventure, was cautious of se^ 
parating from the rest. There, it is likely, was the 
site of Panionium, and of the temple of Neptune. 
The river was named the Gaesus or Gessus, and en- 
tered the sea on the coast called Trogilia. Two 
days before, the stream was inconsiderable, the 
mouth not wide, and crossed by a bar of sand. 

The sacred region Panionia ending, as we sup- 
posed, a broken pavement carried us over some roots 
of Mycale to a pleasant valley, in which a water- 
course commences. Several copious rills descended 
from the sides of the mountain, on which was an 
over-shot mill or two. The torrent farther on had 



TBAVEL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 197 

torn, down the hanks, which were steep, with com 
standing thick oti the very brink. At a fountain by 
the way is an ancient coffin with an inscription in 
Greek; I could read only a couple of the lines. 
About two we came in sight of Suki, and went on, 
without stopping, to Giaur-Kelibesh, where we ar-r 
rived, April the 9th, at five in the evening. 



CHAP. XLVIL 

AT KEUBSSH — ^ZINGARI OR GYPSIES — ^WOMEN LAMENTING 
^—EASTER— A PHENOMENON REMARK. 

GriAUii-KELiBESH is a small village, inhabited, as 
the name imports, by Christians or Greeks. It is 
situated on the east side*^ of mount Mycale, the 
houses rising on a slope, and enjoying a fine view 
over the plain. The church is mean, and was en- 
compassed with graves. It appeared as a place re- 
cently settled. We were here not far from the ruins 
of Priene, on which we employed some days, return- 
ing before sunset to Kelibesh. 

During our stay at the village, sonie of the vagrant 
people, called Atzincari or Zingari, the gypsies of 
the east, came thither with a couple of large apes, 
which, their masters singing to them, performed a 
great variety of feats with extraordinary alertness, 
and a dexterity not to be imagined, such as raised 
highly our opinion of the docility and capacity of 
that sagacious animal. 

One evening, coming from the ruins, we found an 
old woman sitting by the church on the grave of her 

* South side. R. 
o 3 



198 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

daughter, who had been buried about two years. 
She wore a black veil, and pulling the ends alter- 
nately, bowed her head down to her bosom ; and at 
the same time lamented aloud, singing in an uniform 
dismal cadence, with very few pauses. She conti- 
nued thus above an hour, when it grew dark ; ful- 
filling a measure of tributary sorrow, which the 
Greeks superstitiously believe to be acceptable and 
beneficial to the souls of the deceased. The next 
morning a man was interred, the wife following the 
body ; tearing her long dishevelled tresses in agonj ; 
calling him her life, her love ; demanding the reason 
of his leaving her ; and expostulating with him on 
his d3ring, in terms the most expressive of conjugal 
endearments and affection. 

The Greeks now celebrated Easter. A small 
bier, prettily decked with, orange and citron buds, 
jasmine, flowers, and boughs, was placed in the 
church, with a Christ crucified rudely painted on 
board, for the body. We saw it in the evening; 
and before daybreak were suddenly awakened by 
the blaze and crackling of a large bonfire, with sing- 
ing and shouting in honour of the resurrection. They 
made us presents of coloured eggs, and cakes of 
Easter-bread. 

The weather had been unsettled. The sky was 
blue, and the sun shone, but a wet, wintry north 
wind swept the clouds along the top of the range of 
Mycale. We were sitting on the floor early one 
morning at breakfast, with the door, which was to- 
ward the mountain, open; when we discovered a 
small rainbow just above the brow. The sun was 
then peeping only over the opposite mountain, and, 
as it got higher, the arc widened and descended 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 199 

toward us; the cattle, feeding pn the slope, being 
seen through it, tinged with its various colours as it 
passed down^ and seeming in the bow. This pheno- 
menon is probably not uncommon in the mountain- 
ous regions of Ionia and Greece. 

Let us suppose a devout heathen one of our com- 
pany, when this happened. On perceiving the bow 
descend, he would have fancied Iris was coming, 
with a message to the earth, from Jupiter Plu- 
vius ; and, if he had beheld the bow ascend in like 
manner, which at some seasons and in certain situa- 
tions he might do, he would have confidently pro- 
nounced that the goddess had performed her errand, 
and was going back to heaven. 



CHAP. XLVIIL 

THB CITABBL OF PRIBNB — ^DESCBNT FROM IT — RBMAINS OF 
THE CITY — ^THB WALL AND GATEWAYS — TAKEN BY BA- 
JAZET. 

The morning after we arrived at Kelibesh, we set 
out to survey the ruins of Priene, with the Greek, at 
whose house we lodged, for our guide. He led us 
first through the village up to the acropolis or dta^ 
del ; the ascent lasting an hour, the track bad, by 
breaks in the mountain and small cascades. We 
then arrived on a summit of Mycale, large, distinct, 
and rough, with stunted trees and deserted cottages, 
encircled, except toward the plain, by an ancient 
wall of the masonry called pseudisadamum. This 
has been repaired, and made tenable in a later age 
by additional outworks. A steep, high, naked rock 

rises behind; and the area terminates before in a 

o 4 



200 TBATELS IN ASIA MINOE. 

most ahnipt and fonnidable pi^pioe/ from widcb 
we looked down with wonder on the diminutive ob- 
jects beneath us. The massive heap of a temple 
below appeared to the naked eye but as chippings of 
marble p. 

A winding track leads down the predpiee to the 
city. The way was familiar to our guide, and a 
lad, his son, who was with us. We listened to their 
assurances, and, enticed by a fair setting out, follow- 
ed them ; but it soon became difficult and dangerous. 
The steps cut in the rock were narrow, the path 
frequently not wider than the body, and so steep as 
scarcely to allow footing. The sun shone full upon 
us, and was reverberated by the rugged side of the 
mountain, to which we leaned, avoiding as much as 
possible the frightful view of the abyss beneath us, 
and shrinking from the brink. The long-continued 
descent made the whole frame quiver ; and looking 
up from the bottom, we were astonished at what we 
had done. We could discern no track, but the rock 
appeared quite perpendicular; and a soaring eagle 
Was below the top of the precipice. At the temple 
we were joined by our servants, who led our horses 
down on the side opposite to that which we ascend- 
ed; and with them came the fat janizary, who had 
very wisely sneaked off on p^treiving our inten- 
tion. 

The temple of Minerva Polias, though prostrate, 
was a remain of Ionian elegance and grandeur too 
curious to be hastily or slightly examined. An ac- 
count of it, with a view and plates of the architec- 
ture, has been published at the expense of the so- 

p See a view in the lonmn Antiquities. 



TRAV£LS IK ASIA MINOR. Ml 

dety of Dilettimti. Several inscribed marbles re- 
main in the heap % When entire, it overlooked the 
city, which was seated on the side of the mountain, 
flat beneath flat, in gradation, to the edge of the 
plain. The areas are levelled, and the communica- 
tion is preserved by steps cut in the slopes. Below 
the temple are broken columns and pieces of marble, 
the remnants of edifices of the Ionic and Doric or- 
ders. Farther down is the ground plat of the sta- 
dium, by the city-wall. The area was narrow, and 
the seats ranged only on the side facing the plain. 
In the mountain, on the left hand, going from the 
temple, is the recess, with some vestiges of the the- 
atre. Among the rubbish and scattered marUes is 
an inscription ^ with a fragment or two, and rains 
of churches, but no wells or mosques as at Miletus. 
The; whole circuit of the wall of the city is standing, 
besides several portions within it, worthy of admira- 
tion for their solidity and beauty. It descends on 
each side of the precipice, and is the. boundary next 
the plain. 

Priene, not including the citadel, had three gate- 
ways : one is toward Kelibesh, and has without it 
vaults of sepulchres: the entrance was not wide. 
A part of the arch, consisting of a single row of. 
massive stones, still remains ; but those on which it 
rests are so corroded by age, broken, or distorted, as 
to seem every moment ready to yield, and let down 
their load. A rugged way leads to a second opening 
in the wall. Opposite to this, and, as we guessed, about 
a mile from it ; beyond which are likewise vaults of 
sepulchres. Between these was a gate facing the 

"1 Inscript. Ant. p. 14, 15, 16. ^ Id. ibid. 



aOS TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOIU 



jdain ; and on the left hand going out of it is a hole, 
resembling the mouth of an oven, in the side of a 
square tower; and over it an inscrifytion in small 
characters, exceeding! j difficult to be read *. It sig- 
nifies, that a certain Cjrprian in his sleep had beheld 
Ceres and Proserpine, arrayed in white; and that 
in three visions thej had enjoined the worship of a 
hero, the guardian of the city, and pointed out the 
place, where, in obedience to them, he had erected 
the god. This was probably some local hero, whose 
little image was set in the wall, and whose name 
and memory have perished. 

The modem history of Priene, as well as of Mile- 
tus, is very imperfect. It is now called Samsun and 
Samsun-kalesi, which names seem not very recent. 
Samsun is among the places taken in 1S91 by Baja- 
zet, who subdued Ionia. 



CHAP. XLIX. 

MOUNT TITANUS^ CROCKS IN THE PLAIN — THB MJEANBBR 

— ^WB ARB SNTANGLSD ON THB MOUNTAIN — ^^KNIGHTBD 
^ARRIVE AT MYUS". 

W^E have mentioned in a preceding chapter, that 
on Gallesus we saw a summit remarkably craggy. 
The clouds rest on its tops, which, being weather- 
worn, are of a whitish shining ^ aspect. These con- 
tinued long visible in various parts of the country, 
and sometimes far remote. The ancient name of the 
mountain was Titanus 3^, taken firom their colour as 

■ Inscript. Ant. p. 13. * Latmus. R. 

" Heraclea. R. « Dark grayish, 

y Latmus. R. 



TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. SOS 

resembling chalk '. Beneath the ridge on the south 
side, by a lake, is Bafi or Capoumoulu, six hours, as 
we were told, from Kelibesh. The Greek, our host, 
undertook to conduct us thither. 

We left the village on the 15th of April at seven 
in the morning. We found the torrent-bed*, which 
occasioned our perplexity in going to Miletus, less 
formidable here, crossing it by a wooden bridge 
made for foot passengers. It had received some 
water from the late rains, which had also flooded the 
plain at the foot of the mountain. The air was 
sharp ; and snow, recently fallen, glistened on the 
northern summits. About nine, we came to three 
distinct, bare rocks, resembling islets of the Mgadon 
sea, but surrounded with land instead of water. On 
one is a village named Osebasha, and on the side 
next Priene is a very wide torrent-bed **. 

We went on, and after half an hour were stopped 
by the Maeander. Here we were ferried over in a 
triangular float, with a rope, in two minutes and a 
half. The stream was broad, rapid, and muddy, 
but low within the banks, which were indented by 
the gradual sinking of its surface. We ascended the 
mountain, and enjoyed a delicious view of the river, 
crossing with mazy windings from the foot of mount 
Messogis, the northern boundary of the plain. 

We were informed at the ferry, that the road to 

' Bafi, distant from thence four hours, was bad. We 

met on it a few camels, which carry their burdens 

high on their backs, or I should have described it as 

' Q. Smyrnaeus k 280. Strabo, p. 439. The colour has 

DO resemblance to chalk. R. 

* The forsaken bed of the Maeander. R. 
b Ancient bed of the Maeander. R. 



--N. 



904 TXATBLS IK ASIA HINOS. 

only not absolutely impassable. It lies over a branch 
of TitanusS which mountain is uncommonly rough 
and horrid, consisting of huge, single, irregular, and 
naked rocks piled together ; poised, as it were, on a 
point ; or hanging dreadfully over the track ; and in- 
terspersed with low shrubs and stunted oaks. Our 
horses suffered exceedingly, sliding down, or jam- 
med with their burdens, or violently forced from the 
road, and rolling over the steeps ; and our men were 
much jaded with loading and unloading them, and 
bruised by transporting our baggage on their shoul- 
ders at the narrow passes. 

We were benighted in this wild mountain, when 
we came to a strait, where the difficulty seemed in- 
surmountable. Three or four of us at length push- 
ed through ; and, leading our horses into a vale be- 
neath, committed them to the care of the janizary. 
We then joined our companions in distress, who 
were perjdexed above ; and lighting candles, began^ 
all hands, to carry down our baggage piecemeal. 
The Greek atoned in some measure for bringing us 
this way by his laborious activity, in which he was 
equalled by our Swiss ; but the Armenians are a dull 
and heavy race. We pitched our tent near a tree, 
not far from a rill, on a green spot surrounded with 
brown, naked rocks. 

Our toil was renewed in the morning, but about 
noon we got dear from the mountain. When near 
Baf i, we entered a small plain half-encircled with a 
bare ridge. This avenue had been barricadoed. We 
pitched our tent soon after upon a pleasant green area 
within the city-walls of Myus ^. 

« Latmus. R. ^ Heradea. R, 



• 



TRAVELB IN ASIA MINOR. 805 



CHAR L. 

OF MYUSC — THE SITE AND REMAINS GRAVES^ &C. ^AN 

ORATORY — ^ANOTHER — RUINED CHURCHES AND MONAS- 
TERIES OF THYMBRIA GNATS AND FLIES. 

The story of Myus is remarkables but not singular. 
A town by Pergamum» named Atameus, had suffer- 
ed in the same manner. Myus originally was seat- 
ed on a bay of the sea, not large, but abounding 
in fish. Hence, this city was given to Themistodes 
to ftimish that article for his taUe. The bay 
changed into a lake^ and became fresh. Myriads of 
gnats swarmed on .it, and the town was devoured, as 
it were, from the water. The Myusians retired 
from this enemy to Miletus, carrying away all their 
moveables, and the statues of their gods. They 
were incorporated with the Milesians, and sacrifioedt 
and gave their suffrage with them at the Panioniaa 
congress. Pausanias relates, that nothing remained 
at Myus in his time, but a temple of Bacchus of 
white stoned. 

The site of Myus is as romantic as its fortune 
was extraordinary^. The wall encloses a jumble 
of naked rocks rudely piled, of a dark dismal hue, witb 
precipices and vast hollows, from wMch perhaps 
stone has been cut. A few hutS;, inhabited by Turk* 

• Heraclea. R. 

^ But this lake is not yet become fresh, and has no particular 
swarms of gnats upon it, and was without doubt the lake of Lat- 
mus. R. 

K P. 207. Vitruvius, lib. iv. c. 1. Strabo, p. 636. Diodorus Sic. 
1. xi. c. 57. 

*» The site of Myus— extraordinary.] The site of Heraclea is 
very romantic. R. 



206 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

ish families, are of the same colour, and scarcely 
distinguishable. Beyond these, fronting the lake, 
you find on the left hand a theatre hewn in the 
mountain, with some mossy remnants of the wall of 
the proscenium or front ; but the marble seats are 
removed. Between the huts and the lake are several 
terraces with steps cut as at Priene. One, by which 
our tent stood, was a quadrangular area edged 
with marble fragments ; and we conjectured it had 
been the market-place. By another were stones 
ornamented with shields of a circular form. But 
the most conspicuous ruin is the small temjde of 
Bacchus \ which is seated on an abrupt rock, with 
the front only, which is toward the east^ accessible. 
The roof is destroyed. The cell is well-built, of 
smooth stone with a brown crust on it.^ The por- 
tico^ was in antis\ We measured some marUe 
fitigments belonging to it, and r(^retted that any of 
the members were missing. This edifice has been 
used as a church, and the entrance walled up with 
patch-work. The marbles, which lie scattered about, 
the broken columns, and mutilated statues, all wit- 
ness a remote antiquity. We met with some in- 
scriptions, but not legible. The city-wall was con- 
structed, like that at Ephesus, with square towers, 
and is still standing, except toward the water. It 
runs up the mountain-slope so far as to be in some 
places hardly discernible. 

^ the small temple of Bacchus] & small temple. H. 

' of smooth stone with a brown crust ota it.] Revett has erased 
these words, and substituted, *' of a species of red granite* but 
" the front of the pronaos of white marble.*' 

^ Aspect. R, 

' Temples in antis have no portico. R. 



TRATELS IN ASIA MINOR. 207 

Without the city are the cemeteries of its early in- 
habitants ; graves cut iii the rock^ of alL sizes, suited 
to the human stature at different ages ; with innu- 
merable flat ™ stones, which served as lids ^ Some 
are yet covered, and many open, and by the lake fill- 
ed with water. The Mds are overgrown with a 
short, dry, brown moss, their very aspect evincing old 
age. We were shewn one inscription^, close by a 
small hut in a narrow pass of the mountain west- 
ward, on marble, in large characters. It records a 
son of Seleucus, who died young, and the affliction 
of his parents ; concluding with a tender expostula- 
tion with them on the inefficacy and impropriety of 
their immoderate sorrow. Nearer the city, among 
some trees, is a well with the base of a column perfo- 
rated on the mouth. 

A couple of Myusians, who undertook to shew 
something extraordinary, conducted me, with one of 
my companions, up into the mountain on the east 
side of the city ; on which are many traces of an- 
cient walls and towers. We climbed several rocks in 
the way ; our guides with bare feet, carrying in their 
hands their papouches, or slippers, which were of red 
leather; a colour not allowed to be worn, except 
by Turks. We came in about an hour to a large 
rock, which was scooped out, and had the indde 
painted with the history of Christ in compartments, 
and with heads of bishops and saints. It is in one 
of the most wild and retired recesses imaginable. 
Before the picture of the crucifixion was a heap of 

™ flat] Revett has erased this word. 

° Whose surface was generally sloped in the form of a low 
roof, gabled at each end. R. 
° Inscript. Ant. p. 18. 



208 TSAYELS IN ASIA MINOS. 

stones piled as an altar, and scrqis of diarooal, winch 
had been used in bnnung incense ; with writing on 
the wall. 

Going back, I tarried with one of the Tui^ while 
a showar &U, in a sii^;le rock, hollowed out; wilii 
the doorwi^ above the level of the ground. It 
stands distinct and talL On the dome within, Christ 
was pourtrayed, and on the round beneath, the Pa- 
nagia, or Virgin, with saints. The figures are la^ge, 
and at fiiU length ; the design and colourii^ such as 
may be viewed with pleasure. On the plaster are 
inscriptions painted, and fiunt finim age. One, which 
I carefully copiedP, informs us, the oratory had been 
beautified, for the sake of the prayers and salvation of 
a certain subdeacon and his parents. Here seemed 
to have been a quarry. The brown rocks had graves 
mi their t<^, and the soft firesh turf between them 
was enamelled with flowers. 

It may be inferred firom the remnants of the mo- 
nasteries and churches, which are numerous, that 
Myus was repeopled^, when monkoy, spreading 
from Egypt, toward the end of the fourth century, 
overran the Greek and Latin empires. The lake 
abounding in large and fine fish, afforded an isurtacle 
of diet not unimportant under a ritual which en- 
joined frequent abstinence from flesh. It probably 
contributed to render this place, what it appears to 
have been, a grand resort of fanciftil devotees and 
seduded hermits, a nursery of saints, another Athos, 
or holy mountain. 

We were supplied with com for our horses, and 
with provisions, from a village by the head of the 

P Inscript. Ant. p. 18. 

^ Myus was repeopled.] Heraclea became a holy retreat. B» 



TRAVEIJS IN ASIA MINOR. 209 

lake ; where are vestiges of ancient building. There 
probably was Thymbria% a village in Caria, within 
four stadia, dr half a mile^ of Myus ; by which was a 
Charoniuniy or sacred cave ; one of those which the 
ancients supposed to communicate with the infernal 
regions, and to be fiUed with the deadly vapours of 
lake Avemus. We purchased bad water from the 
huts in Myus * at a dear rate ; and fish taken in the 
lake with a small trident. The carp here and by 
the M«eander were exceedingly fine. 

The old nuisance of Myus, gnats, swarmed already 
in the air, teasing tls exceedingly ; and, toward the 
evening, the inside of our tent was blackened with 
flies dustering round about the poles. One of our 
men, thinking to expel and destroy them by a sud- 
den explosion of gunpowder, procured a momentary 
riddance, and set fire to the canvass in three or four 
places ^ 



CHAP. U. 

THB LAKB OF BUTUS^-^AN ISLBT — A ROCK IK TUU LAKE^-^ 
ANOTHER ISLET-^ANOTHSR-^ JUNCTION OF THB LAKX 
WITH TH£ MifiANDBll ^ALTARS AND NICHBS4 

The lake of Myus " is visible both from Priene and 
Miletus, and is called by the neighbouring Greeks 

^ Strabo, p. 57$. ^6. 

* Heracles. R. 

* No eKtraordinary inconvenience is remembered fi'om these in- 
sects. This accident happened at the river Alpheus in th^ Pelo- 
ponnesus. See Travels in Greece, p. 289. R. 

^ The buy of Laimus, now a lake. R. 
^ The bay of Latmus. R. 

CHANDLEE, ASIA M. P 



210 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

(tayofftra) the Sea. The water is not drinkable. 
We observed the inbat here as at Smyrna ; a breeze 
lightly skimming along the smooth surface^ then 
springing gently up, and increasing with the day; the 
waves agitated, and moving in r^ular prc^ression 
toward the shore. On the edges and round about it 
are square towers and ruinous castles, besides one at 
M3rus ', erected in times of war or rapine, to secure 
and command the passes. 

The lake, which is much longer than broad, has 
in it several rocky islets. One, near Myus 7^, is sur- 
rounded with an ordinary wall enclosing the ruin of 
a church. The water is so shallow, that we once 
waded across. It was chosen as the best point of 
view for a drawing of the city and mountain. Our 
servant found there the nest of some water-fowl* in a 
hole of the wall, filled with lai^ %gs» speckled with 
red. Among the rubbish was a pillar, on which a 
cross is carved, and a marble with a sepulchral in- 
scription % '' Heraclides, son of Sotades, {nc^KOfo^) 
" temple-sweeper to Hecate." This goddess, per- 
haps, was worshipped by the Charonium near Thym- 
bria. The persons, who enjoyed that title, had the 
general care of the temples, to which they belonged. 
The ofiice was accounted very honourable. It was 
sometimes conferred on cities, and is found upon re- 
cord on their medals, and other remaining monu- 
ments. 

Lower down the lake is a rock, which I visited in 
a boat, or rather a few boards badly fastened toge- 
ther. I had with me the Swiss and one of the na- 

X Heraclea. R. 7 Heraclea. R. 

' A large species of duck. R. -^ Inscript. Ant. p. 1 8. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 211 

tives. It is joined to the continent by a low sand- 
bank, and has a wall of despicable patchwork round 
it. Mount Titanus^ is the margin of the lake on 
that side. Our return to Myus ^ was attended with 
some risk. It was evening, our float slight, the gale 
strong, and the sea rough ^. 

I was desirous to go down the lake to its mouth, 
as we suppbsed, eight or ten miles distant. The in- 
bat seemed regular, and.it was expected would waft 
ujs pleasantly back. We embarked in the morning 
in a larger boat, but could procure no sail. We rowed 
to a picturesque islet, beyond the rock, covered with 
ruins of a monastery,and found an inscription in Greek 
over the door-way of the church, but the letters so 
disguised by ligatures exceedingly complicated, that 
I could neither copy nor decipher it. On a couple 
of marbles^ in the wall is carved a double hatchet, and 
urider it the name of the proprietor, '' Jupiter of La- 
<^ branda." This deity was much worshipped in Caria, 
to which province Myus once belonged. We shall 
have occasion, when we arrive at Mylasa, to treat of 
him, and shall then explain his symbol, which occurs, 
not seldom, to the antiquary, and especially the me- 
dalist. 

Our boat moved very heavily, but we tugged on 
from this islet to one in a line with it, and on the 
north side of the lake, overspread likevdse with rub- 
bish. On the shore we found young tortoises, lively, 
but so small, that we supposed they were just hatch- 
ed from the eggs. The fish rose aiU around us, and 
the tops of the rocks above the surface of the water 

^ lAtinus. R. ^ Heraclea. R. 

^ Water rough. R. ^ Inscript. Ant. p. ] 8. 






212 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

were covered with birds. We were amused with 
vast flights of fowl, some of a species unknown to us. 

The Greek emperor Manuel lay near this lake 
with his army about the middle of the twelfth cen- 
tury. "His camp," says the historian <^, "was si- 
" tuated toward the mouths of the Ma&ander. There 
" an immense quantity of water issues forth at the 
" feet of the mountains, as it were the produce of a 
" thousand springs ; and spreading a deluge over the 

adjacent country, at first composes a lake, and 

then going on, aits a deep bed, and forms a 
" river •." We were now told that its junction 
with the Maeander is by a channel about half a mile 
long. The city of Myus had anciently an inter- 
course by water with Miletus, and a communication 
with the sea, from which a boat might still pass up 
to it. 

We had observed at Myus^ many small square 
niches cut ; and rocks, with steps to ascend up to 
the top. These places, it may be conjectured, were 
designed for the worship of the watery divinities ; 
to receive propitiatory ofierings or votive tablets; 
the memorials of real or imaginary perils and 
escapes; the tribute of their suppliants distressed 
and relieved in their occupation at voyages on the 
lake. 

^ Cinnamus, p. 66. 

^ There an immense quantity — forms a river.] This is an exact 
description of the lake with its outlet, independent of the Mae- 
ander. R. 

' Heraclea. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. SIS 

CHAP. LII. 

J^IRST 0I8COVBRY OF MYUSS — TO MEKSENJST — ^TO MIJLBTUS-* 
TO O&ANDUICK — ^THB NIGHT — ^TO SUKI AND SMYRNA 

. REMARK ON THE WATER-COURSE IN THE PLAIN— ACCOUNT 
OF A JOURNEY IN 1673 REMARKS ON IT. 

W^E were led unexpectedly to the discovery of 
Myiis ^ in our first journey, on the way to Miletus 
from Mylasa in Caria. We had crossed the moun- 
tain, and our guide, at the head of the lake, leaving 
the road to Miletus, which is on the opposite side, 
conducted us to Myus\ We dismounted at the 
castle, and took a cursory survey of the ruins. It 
was evening before we had finished, and too late to 
attempt reaching Miletus. 

We had consumed our whole store of provisions, 
which consisted of a few hard eggs, some grapes 
and bread, on our arrival here. We now found we 
could procure neither com for our horses, nor any 
kind of food to allay our own hunger, which began 
to be importunate. We mounted, and went in quest 
of a lodging, passing from village to village, and in- 
quiring, in vain, for com. At length we were be- 
nighted among the hills on the south side of the 
lake, with jackals howling round us. After some 
time we stopped at Mersenet, a village upon mount 
Latmus \ which afforded us a dish of boiled wheat, 
and some must of wine, with honey ; but the quan- 
tity so small, it rather pacified the present cravings 
of appetite, than satisfied the stomach. Nothing 
remained for the morning, and both we and our 
horses set out fasting. 

s Heraclea. R. ^ Heraclea. K, 

» Heraclea. R. ^ Grins. R. 



214 TBAVEI.8 IK ASIA MINOR. 

The way to Miletus, after descending the moun- 
tain, was by the lake to the plain. We had then 
the Maeander winding on our right, and mount Lat- 
mus bordering the level green on our left, both at a 
distance \ Our course was 20™. north of west, and 
in five hours we arrived the second time at Miletus. 

Our lodging at this place before had been a 
smith's shop, in which we lay very roughly, strait- 
ened for room, and pestered exceedingly with gnats 
and other insects. We had now no inclination to 
resume it ; but resolved, after resting awhile, to go 
on to a village bearing north-east from Miletus, dis- 
tant three hours, called Oranduick. We ferried over 
the Maeander in the evening, and crossing™ the 
plain, were surrounded on the way by vast packs of 
jackals, hunting in full cry. It was dark when we 
arrived, and were admitted into a smaU mud-buflt 
hut, in which were seven or eight Turks. 

Before we had been long at this place, we would 
gladly have exchanged for the shop at Miletus, with 
all its inconveniencies. The conversation which 
passed among the Turks gave room to apprehend 
bad purposes, aiid our men in general were very un- 
easy. It thundered and lightned exceedingly at a 
distance; but sleeping in the air by a fire, about 
which some of them were sitting, seemed to me pre- 
ferable to heat and suspected company within the 
hut. In a short time, after a dead silence, the vil- 
lage dogs began on a sudden to bark, the cattle to 
low as if in distress, and the jackals to howl ; a vio- 
lent rush of wind had scattered away the embers of 

' UniDtelligible. We had then the lake and mount Latmus on 
our right, and Gnus on our left. R. 
»n Going up, R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 215 

the fire^ with my bed-doths^ and rain was Mling 
heavily in large drops. A flash of blue lightning 
directed me to the hut, which in an instant was 
crowded with our men and baggage, and almost as 
soon let in the wet on us. This storm, however, 
had its use, as by assembling us it frustrated any 
evil intentions of the Turks. ^ 

" After a most uncomfortable night, we mounted, 
at seven in the morning, for Suki. Our course was 
nearly north by west ^ across the middle of the 
plain. We left the rocks or knolls which we ob- 
served in our way from Priene to the ferry, with 
Osebasha, upon the right hand, and passed a wide 
water-course twice ^. The soil was slimy and slip- 
pery, and our guide, who was on a gray horse, like 
his rider, stricken in yeai*s, had a fall, but was not 
hurt. We arrived at Suki afl«r ten, somewhat in- 
disposed from our late sufferings, and the janizary 
complaining of an old rupture. We left the khan 
in the afternoon; our little Turk, whom we had 
paid and dismiissed, standing in the road, and fol- 
lowing us with good wishes, the effusions of his gra^ 
titude and regard. We lay at Scala Nova, and the 
next night at Osebanar, beyond Aiasaluck. We 
were on horseback again before daybreak, and 
reached Smyrna in the evening. 

In traversing the plain back to Suki, as above re- 
lated, the water-course, which embarrassed us sp 
much in going to Miletus, did not occur p. The 

" Rather east of north. Query ? R. 

^ Two forsaken channels of the Mseander ; the latter of which 
embarrassed us so much in going from Priene to Miletus. It re- 
ceives a small current from Mycale a little below Suki. R. . 

P It did Occur, therefore your own conclusion is erroneous. It 

p 4 



216 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

coQcliisvHi was obvious, that it had been worn by 
tcHTents from mount Mycale. In this opinion I waa 
afterwards confirmed by a view of it from the pre- 
dpice of Priene. It is continued from the vaUey, 
where, coming from Changlee, we obserred the 
banks steep and torn, with corn standing on the 
brink. ,Tbe bed .approaching Suki is wide and% 
shallow, the ground being hard. It then ' cuts the 
plain with many windings, its direction most straight 
before Priene; and, farther on, crosses from pear 
Mycale, SO"*, west of south, its mases very intricate ; 
and unites with the Maeander below Miletus, deep^ 
ening as it advances, and swelled after heavy rains 
with rills frt)m the sides of the mountain. 

Wheler" and Spon are indebted for the account 
which they have published of this r^on to a jour*- 
ney begun in June, 1673, by Dr. Pickering and 
some merchants of Smyrna, These travellers, quit- 
ting Changlee about four in the morning, gained 
the top of Mycale, on which they had an extensive 
view ; and one of them designed the mazes of the 
Maeander. They descended by a difficult and nar- 
row track, and in two hours came into the plain, 
paving left behind the remains of a castle eastward. 
From Samsun, or Priene, then a village at the foot 
of Mycale, they passed through a large plain ^ to the 

occurred not only below Suki, where the H^e stream from My-- 
cale runs into it» but abo?e that town, wbeiv the bauks are very 
steep. R. 

n Revett has erased the words " wide and.** 

^ After ** It theo/' Revett has inserted, *^ enters the water- 
** course, which." 

» P. 267. 

^ Query, if rightly staled. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. 217 

Maeandfer, called b j the Turks Boittc^Minder^ or the 
Great Mnpander, which they^ crossed at a ferry, 
where it was about sixteen fathom broad, and as 
many deep in the middle, as the man informed them, 
with the current very swift. About two hours after 
this they* arrived at Palatsha, where they pitched 
their tents on the banks of a large river, which, 
running through a great lake, £ei11s into the Mae- 
ander. 

The reader will observe, that these travellers cross- 
ed the river but once between Samsun and Palatsha. 
The ferry therefore was below the junction of the 
two beds \ There the stream was called the Crredt 
Meander, probably to distinguish it, not, as has 
been supposed, from the Cayster, which is remote, 
but from the other, or Uttle River, which it re- 
ceives. This they mistook for the principal stream, 
being ignorant of the true Maeander, with which the 
lake of Myus* communicates, and which runs by 
Palatsha. This also lay beneath them, when on 
mount Mycale, wd was seen distinctly, as in a 
chart Their draughtsman y delineated its turnings 

^ There is no high road or ferry cross the riTer between Mil^;- 
tus and the sea, consequently they could not pass below the junc- 
tion of the two beds, if the water-course by Priene is meant for 
one of them. R. 

' H^raclea. R. 

y It 18 wonderfiil that their draughtsman' should mistake a dry 
channel for the true Maeander at that time, and that it has 
changed its course since, and joined the outlet of the lake above 
Miletus, whereas before it joined the outlet below that city ; and 
moreover that this lake was the bay of Latmus, and the ruined 
city that of Heraclea, instead of the lake and city of Myus, which 
were situated in the plain up the river. Dr. Pickering, in his 
course cross the plain from Priene to Miletus, could not cross the 



218 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

and windings for those of the old and &inous riirer ; 
and its mazes, which helped to impose on them, 
prevented even the suspicion of an error. 



CHAR LIII. 

THB Mi£ANDBR MUDDT — THB BB]>-i-ITS COURSE TO THB 
LAKE — TO THE SEA — CHANGE IN THE FACE OF THE RE- 
GION — ITS ANCIENT GEOGRAPHY — THB ISLANDS BEFORE 
MILETUS — THE ROCKS OF 08EBASHA — ^INCREASE OF LAND 
ITS PROGRESS UNNOTICED — FUTURE ENCROACHMENTS. 

W^E have ah-eady iqentioned the Maeander among 
the rivers of Asia Minor, anciently noted for ^fae 
production of new land. The stream, it was re- 
marked, in passing through the ploughed grounds of 
Phrygia and Caria, collected much slime, and bring- 
ing it down continually, added to the coast at its 
mouth. 

The Mseander was indictable for removing the 
soil, when its margin tumbled in; and the person 
who recovered damages was paid from the income 
of the ferries *. The downfalls were very frequent, 
and are supposed, with probability, Jto be the cause 
of the curvity of the bed ; the earth carried away 
from one part lodging in another, and replacing the 
loss sustained on one side, by adding to the (^posite 
bank. 

Meander in its present state, and two hours after arrived opon 
the banks of another great river before Miletus, which he was 
told ran through a lake ; and is sufficient proof of what has been 
asserted in regard to the Maeander^ and the change of its course 
since that time. R. 
« Strabo, p. 580. 



TBAYELS IN ASIA MINOR. 219 

We haire described the stream as crossing from 
near mount Messogis to the foot of Titanus* oppo- 
site to Priene; and on that side it continues, run* 
ning toward the mouth of the lake ^ of Myus. Pro- 
bably the level of the intermediate plain determined 
it in that course ; the soil washed from Mycale, or 
supplied by the torrent ^, raising the surface there, 
and forbidding its approach. The current repelled 
by the rocks of Osebasha, and contracted about the 
ferry, wore its present channel, while the mud was 
soft and yielding; and the bed, which we passed 
near them, was created from the same obstruction, 
the water after floods running off there more forci- 
bly, as meeting with more resistance. 

The river turns from the mouth of the lake, with 
many windings, through groves of tamarisk, toward 
Miletus ; proceeding by the right wing of the theatre 
in mazes to the sea, which is in view, and distant, 
as we computed, about eight miles ; the plain smooth 
and level as a bowling-green, except certain knolls 
extant in it, near midway, before Miletus \ One of 
these, the northermost, is seen distinct, as a hil- 
lock ; and on a bigger ranging with it is a village 
named Bautenau. In that part is the union of the 
water-course of Priene with the river % which winds 
to the south of the hillocks, and has on its margin^ 
two or more miles beyond, a smaU fortress. The 
extremity of the plain by the shore appeared, from 

^ Latmus. R. 

^ Heretofore the bay of Latmus. R. 

c River. R. ^ 

<* Strabo, p. .580. • 

« Ancient channel of the Mseander with the present river. R. 



2S0 TEAYELS IN ASIA MFNOB. 

the precipice of Priene, marshy, or bare, and as 
mud. Such was the face of this region when iv^e 
saw it. How different from its aspect, when the 
mountains were boundaries of a gul^ and Miletus, 
Myus, and Priene maritime cities ^ 

Strabo, a geographer as exact as comprehensive, 
whose volume is indeed an inestimable treasure, will 
furnish us, as it were, with a chart, enabling us to 
contemplate this coast as it existed toward the com- 
mencement of the Christian era; before a famous 
sophists^ affirmed of it, that the river had taken the 
sea from the navigator, and given it to the husband- 
man to be divided into fields; that furrows were 
seen in the place of waves, and kids sporting in the 
room of dolphins ; and that instead of hearing the 
hoarse mariner, you were delighted with the sweet 
echo of the pastoral pipe. 

Miletus had then four ports, one of them verj ca- 
pacious ; and before it was a cluster of small islands. 
Beyond Miletus, the coast winding, was a bay called 
the Latmian, from Latmus, the adjacent mountain. 
In this bay was ** Heraclea under Latmus," a small 
town, once called Latmos, with a road for vessels ; 
and near that place, after crossing a rivulet, you was 
shewn a cave, with the sepulchre of Endymion. On 
this mountain, it was fabled, Luna cast that hero 
and hunter into a profound sleep, to have the plea- 
sure of saluting him. After Heraclea was Pjrrrha, 
an inconsiderable town, the distance between them 
by sea about one hundred stadia, or twelve miles 
and a half. From Miletus to Heraclea was a little 

^ See a view in the Ionian Antiquities, 
s Himerius. Photius, p. 1135. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR, SSI 

more, coasting the bay ; but from Miletus to Pyrriia^ 
in a straight course5 was only thirty stacUa, or three 
miles and three quarters, so much longer was the 
voyage by the shore. From Pyrrha to the mouth 
of the Maeander were fifty stadia, or six miles and a 

^ The Latin interpreter of Strabo has omitted the words from 
MUettts to Pyrrha. See also Cellarius, p. 52. 

The geogn^her, after mentioning slightly Pyrrha and Hera- 
clea as inconsiderable towns, advertises his reader, that the com- 
pass of his work requires him not to dwell but on places of note. 
This passage is grossly mistranslated. Tl^e interpreter will fre* 
qiientiy mislead those who attend not to the original ; and is, in 
this instance, the sole cause why Wheler, finding himself puzzled, 
suspects Strabo to be less accurate in this portion of his work than 
he pretends to be. 

The river running by the theatre of Miletus perplexed Wheler 
exceedingly. He supposes Miletus to have been Pyrrha, and 
Branehidse to be Heraclea. Spon, with the same materials^ 
Buppfesses the mention of any difiiciilty ; and, on the autbority 
of the inscription on the theatre, boldly calls the place Miletus, 
CelUrius prefers the opinion of Wheler. He cites Strabo to 
prove the distance between Miletus and the mouth of the river 
was ex stadia ; and observing it only x in Pliny, supposes the 
numeral c omitted. But the calculation from Strabo is imper- 
fect and erroneous, the emendation of Pliny neitho* wdl fonnded 
nor necessary ; and it happens that Spon is superficially right, 
while Cellarius, with Wheler, is learnedly mistaken. D*Anville 
has likewise followed Wheler. See Analyse de la Carte intitul^e, 
Les Cdtes de la Gr^ce^ &c. p. 48. 

It were easy to enlarge on the errors of Cellarius in this part 
of his wprk, and to reflect back the unmerited censures which he 
bestows on the ancient writers who have treated on the places. 
Seepages5],52, 53, 54. 

We may with reason wonder that so obvious a clue to these 
intricacies and seeming contradictions as that we have given has 
hitherto escaped the modem travellers, geographers, and annota- 
tors in general ; especially as each class professes to take Strabo 
for their surest guide or principal counsel. 



SffiS TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR* 

quarter, the ground slimy and marshy. From thence 
you sailed up to MyusS thirty stadia, in skiffs which- 
plied After the mouth of the Maeander was the 
coast against Priene. The sea had once washed 
the wall of this city ; and it had two ports, one of 
which shut up ; but then it was seen within land, 
forty stadia, or five miles, above the shore. 

The principal island in the cluster before Miletus 
was Lade. There, when invaded by Darius, the lo- 
nians assembled three hundred and sixty triremes, 
and engaged his fleet of six hundred. The Mile- 
sians had eighty ships, and formed the wing toward 
the east. Next to them were the Prieneans with 
twelve, and Myusians with three. The island was 
afterwards seized by Alexander ; and, while he be- 
sieged Miletus, was the station of the Greek admi- 
ral, who blocked up the port. The Milesians, when 
he was about to storm the city, tried to escape, some 
in skiffs, some swimming on their bucklers, but were 
intercepted ; only three hundred getting to a steep 
islet, which they resolved to defend. This probably 
was one by Lade. Two, near Miletus, called Came- 
lidae, the Camels, were among the less considerable. 
A single one, it is likely the northermost hillock, 

^ The distance between Miletus and Myus, by water, seems to 
have been one hundred and ten stadia^, or thirteen miles and 
three quarters. 

From Miletus to Pyrrha - - - - 30 stadia.^ 
From Pyrrha to the mouth of the Maeander 50 
From thence to Myus - - - - 30 

^ one hundred and ten stadia.] Fifty stadia. R. 

1 From Miletas to Pyrrha SO stadia.] Revett strikes his pen through this, 
and writes, *< From Pyrrha to Miletus 80.*' At the bottom of the page be 
adds, ** Miletus was between Pyrrha and the mouth of the Maeandcr, distant 
** from tlie latter 30 stadia, and from thence up the river to Myue 30 more,** 






TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 22S 

was called Asteria, from Asterius, whose skeleton, 
remarkable for its size, was shewn there. He reign« 
ed, it is related, before the Ionic migration. By the 
Tragiae, probably mud banks and shoals formed by 
the river, were other islets, the stations of robbers. 
Nature," says Pliny, ^' has taken islands from the 
sea, and joined them to the continent ; from Mile- 
tus, Dromiscos and Peme ; and Hybanda, once an 
island of Ionia, is now two hundred stadia, twenty- 
'^ five miles, from the coast." Nature in this district 
was the Maeander, and the islands here specified are 
perhaps the rocks of Osebashd. ' The river has been, 
as it were, the parent of its own bed. 

The bay, on which Myus<° was once seated, changed 
into a lake, when the Maeander, by lodging slime at 
the mouth, had cut off the ingress of the salt water. 
The mountains were an obstacle, or the whole recess 
would have been filled and converted into a plain. 
Their rills also supplied the fi'esh water, which ge- 
nerated the gnats °. The land grew, as it were, 
daily, and was continually removing the sea farther 
frtim the lake. The mouth of the Maeander was 
then seen between Miletus and Priene; and this 
city had a wide plain before it. Afterwards it ap- 
proached within ten stadia, or a mile and a quarter, 
of Miletus ; and the bays above that city were ren- 
dered firm ground. The traveller, who shall ride 
along the foot of mount LatmusS eastwai*d from 

" Heraclea. R. 

" No unusual quantity of gnats, and the water brackish. R. 

^ This mountain is Grius ; but if a person who shall ride along 
'the foot of it will discover Heraclea and the rivulet, as he certainly 
wUl, it follows that this lake was the bay of Latmus» and not the 
lake of Myus. R. 



2S4 TBAVELS IK ASIA MIKOE. 

Miletas, wiH, I doubt not, discovar the site of He-' 
raclea; and the rivulet may direct him even noir 
to the cave of Endymion. Pjrrha has been men- 
tioned as within land. The space between Priene 
and Miletus was added, in no long time, to the con-* 
tinent. The ports of this city ceased to be navi- 
gable ; and by degrees Lade and Astaria, -BXkd ihe 
islets near them, were encircled vrith soiL Before 
this happened, the water-^courseP of Priene entered 
the sea, separate from the Maeander. 

Miletus, deprived by the Msander of the princi* 
pal advantages of its situation, experiteced, with the 
cities its neighbours, a gradual decay, which wiU end 
in total extinction, as it were, by a natural death 
after a lingering illness. The progress of the changes, 
as might be expected, were unattended to in the 
barbarous ages, as not sudden ; or unnoticed, as not 
important. But we are informed that a ;dace by 
the shore, where the river entered the sea in the 
year 866, was called the Ctardena"^; and that the 
Greek emperor Manuel, about the middle of the 
twdith century, finding that region weU watered 
and beautiful to the eye, resolved to refiresh fain 
army there, and to f(H*get the toils of war in the 
pleasures of the chace ^ 

From the alterations already effected, we may in«» 
fer that the Mseander wiU stiU continue to encroach; 
that the recent earth, now soft, will harden, and the 
present marshes be dry. The shore wiU in time 

P The water-course may have been a new bed of tjie Mseander 
since that time ; but most likely the then river, and disembogued 
Itself near the island of Lade. R. 

<i Cedrenu8,p. 566. Hist. Byzam. 1 8. 

'' Cinnamus, p. 62. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 229* 

protrude so far% that the promontories which now 
shelter it will be seen inland. It will unite with 
Samos, and in a series of years extend to remoter 
islands, if the soil, while fresh and yielding, be not 
carried away by some current setting without the 
mountains. If this happen, it will be distributed 
along the coast, or wafted elsewhere in the tide, and 
form new plains. Some barren rock of the adjacent 
deep may be enriched with a fertile domain, and 
other cities V rise and flourish from the bounty of the 
Maeander. 



CHAP. LIV. 

WB BNTBR CARIA — ^AT OHAUZOCLEU — ^BOOTHS OF THB TUR« 

C0MA;NS — lASUS remains OF THE CITY ^^ITHB SEPUL* 

CHRES — INSCRIPTIONS — ^lASIAN MARBLES AT SCIO— JOUR- 
NEY CONTINUED. 

In a preceding chapter we conducted the reader 
from the promontory Posidium and the temple of 
ApoUo Didymaeus to the confines of Ionia and CariBi 
We shall now pursue our journey over the Carian 
mountains. 

We ascended the lofty mountain GriusS and de^- 
scended by a difficult winding track. About five 
in the evening we arrived at Ghauzodeu, a village 
fronting a pleasant bay, which is land-locked. The 
situation is romantic, amid naked rocks, pine and 
olive trees, the latter then laden with black fruit 
Under the trees were several wells, and women pas»^ 

' As to extend to the points of the promontories that now shel- 
ter it. The rest is wild imagination. R. 
^ Query, if extended thus far. R. 

CHANDLSB, ASIA M. Q 



ijl6 TBAVBL8 IN ASIA MINOR. 

ing to and fro with their faces muffled. Some diil^ 
dren, who were gathered about a fire, on seeing us» 
ran away* The aga entertained us very hospitably. 
We sat on a carpet after the Turkish ibshion, cross- 
legged, the table a lai^ salver, on which the dishes 
were placed one at a time, and removed in quick 
succession. We had been exposed this day, with-- 
Ottt any shelter, to the sun. An accidental fire had 
scorched the bushes by the way, and destroyed their 
leaves, and the ground was bare and parched. 

We were on horseback again at seven in the 
morning, and after a few minutes in a beautiful 
plain covered with vines. Some houses were dis- 
persed in it. We then passed over huge mountains, 
branches of Grius^ clothed with pines ; and by im- 
mense precipices. The fire had laid waste large 
tracts. At ten minutes after ten we had in view 
several fine bays, and a plain ftill of booths, with the 
Turcomans sitting by the doors, under sheds resem- 
bling porticoes, or by shady trees, surrounded with 
flocks of goats. We turned to the right, and riding 
by a wdl in the ^ain, and then along the shore, arr 
rived at lasus, now called Ass3m«kale8i. 

The lasians were a colony of Argives, and after*- 
wards of Milesians. Their dty covered a rocky islet 
lying near the continent, to which it is now United 
by a small isthmus, and was only ten stadia, or a 
mile and a quarter, in circumference. It had a port, 
and was maintained by the sea, which abounded in 
fish ; its territory being rough and barren. Several 
stories were current of their eagerness to purchase 
that article, and one is recorded. A citharist or 

"Query? 



44 
€6 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 227 

harper was displajring his skill, and the lasians were 
ver J attentive, until a sale of fish was announced hj 
the sound of a bell. Immediately they all hurried 
away, except one parson, who was hard of hearing. 
Sir/' says the artist to him, '* I am indeed infi^ 
nitely obliged to you for the honour you do me, 
*' and for your love of .harmony. Every body be- 
" sides lefl; me on the ringing of the bell.'* " HowP' 
he replied, ^ has the bell rung ? then, sir, your ser- 
« vantV' 

The north side of tibe rode of lasus is abrupt and 
inacoessiUe. The summit is occupied by a mean 
but extensive fortress. At the foot is a small, por- 
tion of flat ground. On that and on the acclivities 
the houses once stood, within a narrow ocnnpass, 
bounded to the sea by the city wall, which was re<- 
gular, solid, and handsonke, like that of Ephesus. 
This, which has been repaired in many ptaces, now 
encloses rubbish, with remnants of ordinary build- 
ings, and a few pieces of marble* Single pinks, with 
jonquilles, grew among the thickets of mastic ; and 
we ^rung some large covies of partridges, which 
feed oo the berries. In the side of the rock is the 
theatre, fronting 60 >°. east of north, with many rows 
of seats remaining, but covered with soil, or enve- 
loped in bushes. On the left wing is an inscription 
in very large and well-fcMrmed characters, ranging in 
a long line, and recording certain donations to Bac- 
chus mid the people^. Beneath, near the bottom, 
are several Mones inscribed,- but not legible. By the 
isthmus is the vaulted substruction of a considerable 
edifice ; and on a jamb of the dowway are decrees 

^ Strabo, p. 658. y Inscript. Ant. p. 19. 



228 . TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

engraved in a fair character, but damaged, and black 
with smoke ; the entrance, which is lessened by a 
pile of stones, serving as a chimney to a few Greeks, 
who inbatnt the ruin. Opposite to the isthmus is a 
flat point running out into the sea, with a small 
square fort at the extremity. 

The sepulchres of the lasians on the continent 
are very numerous, ranging along above a mile on 
the slope of the mountain. They are built with a 
slaty stone, and perhaps were whitewashed, as thejr 
aspect is now mean. They consist mostly of a single 
camera or vault ; but one has a wall before it, and 
three chambers, which have been painted. Many 
of them have a small square stone over the entrance, 
inscribed, but no longer legible. In examining these, 
I found half of an inscription*, which was copied in 
1678, and has been published incorrectly. This rem- 
nant was in a fair character, on a marble lying on the 
rock. Bek)w the sepulchres are broken arches, and 
pieces of wall, among which is a massive coffin or 
two of marble standing on their basements. 

A marble by the isthmus records an lasian, who 
was victorious at Olympia, and the first conqueror 
in the CapitdLine games at Rome*. We found there 
likewise a piece of inscribed architrave, on which, 
when more entire, a stoa or portico, and Diana Ci- 
vica, or the tutelary goddess of the city, were men- 
tioned*. By a wall, which seemed the remnant of 
a sepulchre, is a long inscription^, closely but hand- 
somely engraved on a slab of white marble, in which 
the theatre is mentioned, with the Prytaneum or 
town-hall, and the temples of Jiipiter and Diana. 

' InscripU Ant. p. 26. • Ibid. p. 19. ^ Ibid. p. 20. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 329 

/ 

While I was copying it, a Greek priest came, and 
displaced me somewhat roughly. I was then in- 
formed that was a church, and the stone the holy 
table. I had given offence by sitting on it. The 
priest was wretchedly ignorant, and, among his other 
absurdities, told me they had a tradition, that at the 
last day St. Paul will rise there, shewing the place 
with his foot. 

A vessel from the island of Stanchio was at an- 
chor in the bay, with some small-craft, which fish, 
or lade with tobacco, figs, and cotton, the produce of 
the country. These often carry stones away for bal- 
last. We had paid a piaster at Scio for leave to 
transcribe three marbles, which lay on the shore, 
and were transported from this place. They con- 
tained honorary decrees made by the lasians^. One 
is of the age of Alexander the Great, and remark- 
able for the extreme beauty of the characters, which 
were as finely designed and cut as any I ever saw. 
These stones were part of a square pilaster before 
the senate-house. 

On our first arrival here, a ,Greek, who lived in 
the ruin of a large sepulchre by the isthmus, de- 
clared he was commanded to suffer nobody to enter 
Assyn-kalesi without a written order from the aga 
of Melasso, to whose district the castle belonged. 
We offered to purchase his permission, but in vain. 
He knew we were going to that city, and was afraid 
to accept a bribe. After a short stay, finding him 
inflexible, we continued our journey, intending to 
return in a few days, as we did, with authority. 
This sepulchre was then our abode, and we lay in 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 23. 






S30 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

it, coveting, with the Oreek family, the whole floor. 
We were guarded hy two large and fierce dogs^ 
which were continaaUy in motion round about, bark- 
ing furiously at the jackals, and then looking in 
upon us with an attention as remarkaUe as friendly 
and agreeable. 



CHAP. LV. 

INCRBASS OF JLANI>*-*«ILLOCK IN A PLAIN-^BOOTfiS OP THK 
TURCOMANS-— S1T8 OF HAROTUA-— OF KINPYB^-OF CA- 

RYANDA WE ARRIVE AT UYLASA — TBB TURKISH PLAY 

OF THE JARRIT— OUR VISIT TO THE A6A. 

The fi^uent accessions of new land along the coast 
of Asia Minor will often perjdex the classical travel- 
ler, especially if not aware of the alteration ; and 
will render him suspicious of the ancient geogra- 
phers whom he consults, as of false guides, on whom 
he cannot depend. The cities lasus and Bargylia 
were situated in the recess of the same bay, which 
was called the lasian, <Hr, more commonly, the Bar- 
gylietic ; yet I inquired for the latta*, as a place on 
the coast, without obtaining any uifi>rmation. 

We set out from lasus at half an hour after one ; 
and, crossing the plain, ascended a very high moun- 
tain. At a quarter before three we had in view, 
beneath us, an extensive plain, in which was a 
Turkish village ; and at the mountain-^foot, a lake, 
which communicated by small meandering chan« 
nek with one opposite, hud that with the bay of la- 
sus. Within was a hillock, resembling one of the 
rocks by Osebasha, with ruins on it^. 

«* A town, R. 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. £SI 

We led ouf hones down the mountain by a ^teisp 
track on the left hand, into a fi^ld, in which the tall 
stalks of Turkey wheat were standing ; and leaTing 
behind us the distant summits of mount Titanus, 
came, at twenty minutes after thrqe, to a l^el green, 
occupied by Turcomans. Their flocks and cattle 
were feeding round the scattered booths; and oott 
ton, reciently gathered from the pods, was exposed 
on the ground to dry, or on the tops, of the sheds, 
which are flat, and covered with boughs. Beyond 
these we passed a wide water-course ; and had the 
hillock again in view through an opening on the 
right hand. 

I wish to have my omissions supjdied, as well as 
my enrors corrected, and therefore recommend this 
hillock to the notice of future travellers into these 
countries. I have no doubt but there was the site 
of Bai^ylia, and there a recess of the bay, since con-» 
verted into a plain, which is almost enclosed with 
mountains. 

_ 4 

The lasians had a famou^ statue of Vesta, which, 
it was the general belief, neither rain nor hail would 
touch, though standing in the open air. A temple 
of Diana near Bargylia was supposed to be distin- 
guished, and treated with like reverence by falling 
snow and showers. It was at a place named Kin* 
dye*. 

After Bargylia, on the coast, were Myndus and 
Halicamassus, colonies from Troszen ; and between 
Bargylia and Myndus was the lake Caryanda, with 
an island in it and a town, the Hrthplace of Scylax, 
a very ancient geographer. The traveller who shall 

« Strabo, p. 658. Folylnuiy p. 1018. 

a 4 



2SS TRAVELS IK ASIA MIKOB. 

examine the coast of Caiiay wiH disooTer Caiyanda^ 
H is bdiered, encompassed in like manner with Bar* 
gylia, and in a plain. 

Three inland cities of Caria are recorded as wiar- 
thy notice, Mylasa, Stratonicea, and Alabanda, Our 
road to the former place lay now between mountains, 
lirandies of Grius^; and by jdeasant cultivated vales. 
The sun had set when we arrived, and the khan 
was shut. A Swiss, who has been mentioned more 
than once, happened to be there, and looking out at 
a window, saw our hats ; and some Greek or Arme- 
nian merchants of Smyrna, whom he informed that 
we were Franks, prevailed on the keeper to open 
the gate, though the khan was full. The Swiss had 
been in London, and had served in an English pri-> 
vateer in the war with France. He was now, after 
many adventures, with an Hungarian, an itinerant 
quack doctor. The bazar, or market, was closed, 
and we were distressed for food. He presently killed 
and dressed for us a couple of fowls, and the mer- 
chants permitted us to partake of their apartment, 
in which we all slept on the floor, as many as it could 
contain. 

The merchants had free access to the aga as 
traders, and the Hungarian, as his physician. We 
delivered to them the letter from the aga of Suki, 
to be presented to him, and in the morning went to 
pay our visit. He *was fond of the national and 
warlike diversion called the jarrit; and we found 
him, though in a bad state of health, engaged in 
this violent exercise, with several Turks of distinc- 
tion, ip a large area or court before his house. The 

f Query, if extended thus fer.^ R. 



TBATELS TS ASIA MINOR. 2SS: 

beauty and tractability of the horses, which had very 
rich trappings, was as surprising as the agility and 
address of the riders. They were gallopping frouL 
all sides at once with a confused regularity ; throw- 
ing at each other the jarrit or blunted dart, and re-* 
covering it from the ground, at full speed, with 
amazing dexterity. The music sounded, and ac- 
clamations, when any one excelled, filled the air. 

We waited in a gallery, with the Hungarian 
and other spectators, until the game ended. We 
were then introduced into a spacious apartment, with 
a sofa, on which the aga was sitting, cross-legged, 
the mufti and a Turk or two on his right hand, his 
officers and attendants standing in a row, silent and 
respectful. He was a comely person, with a black 
beard. We made our obeisance, as usual, pnttini; 
the right hand to the left bi^ast, and inclining th! 
head ; and takitig our places on the sofa, produced 
our firhman. The aga, on receiving it, kissed and 
laid it to his forehead, and then gave it to be read* 
We were entertained each with a pipe ready l^hted, 
a spoonful of sweetmeat put into our mouths, and a 
cup of coffee : after which we retired, with full per- 
mission to employ our time at Mylasa as we pleased. 



CHAP. LVI. 

OF MYLASA ^THE TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS A COLUMN OF 

BUTHYDEMUS AN ARCH OR GATEWAY — OTHER REMAINS 

A SEPULCHRE-— ONE CUT IN THE ROCK ^TEMPLES OF 

JUPITER— OF THE DOUBLE- HATCHET. 

IVIylasa, or Mylassa, was the capital of Hecatom- 
nus, king of Caria, and father of Mausolus* It has 



384 TBAYBLS IK ASIA MINOB. 

been described as situated by a very fertile plaio, 
with a mountaiB rinog above it» in which was a 
quarry of very fine white marble. This being near^ 
was exceedingly convenient in building, and had 
contributed greatly to the beauty of the dty, which, 
it is said, if any, was handsomely adorned with pub- 
lic edifices, porticoes, and temples. The latter were 
so numerous, that a certain musician entmng the 
market-place, as if to make proclamation, began, in- 
stead of, ('Air«ver€, koun) Hear^ ye people^ with, ('Ajcav- 
erc, yooi) Hear^ ye tenyplee. The founders of the 
city were censured as inconsiderate in placing it be- 
neath a steep precipice, by whidi it was commands 
ed. Under the Romans it was a free dty. Its dis^ 
tance from the sea, where nearest, or bom Phjrscus, 
opposite the island of Rhodes, was ei^ty stadia, or 
ten miles. It is still a laige place, commonly called 
Melasso. The houses are numerous, but chiefly of 
plaster, and mean, with trees interspersed. The air 
is acccNinted bad ; and scorpions abound, as ancient* 
ly, entering often at the doors and windows, and 
lurking in the roonu. The plain is surrounded by 
lofty mountains, and cultivated ; but was now parch-* 
ed and bare, except some spots green with the to- 
bacco plant, which was in flower, and pleasing to the 
eye. 

Our first inquiry was for the temple, erected about 
twelve years before the Christian era by the people 
of Mylasa to Augustus Caesar and the goddess Rome, 
which was standing not many years ago. We were 
shewn the basement, which remains, and were in- 
formed the ruin had been demolished, and a new 
mosque, which we saw on the mountain-side, above 
the town, raised with the marble. The house of a 



THAVELS IN ASIA MINOE. ^5 

Turk oocupjring the $ite, we employed the Hunga- 
rian to treat with him for admission ; but he affirm^ 
ed we could see nothing ; and added, that there was 
his haram, or the apartment of his women, which 
was an obstacle not to be surmounted. It had six 
eolumns in front, and the whole number had been 
twienty-two. 

On the hill, and not far from the basement of the 
temple, is a column of the Corinthian order, st^id-* 
ing, wHh a flat-roofed cottage, upon a piece of solid 
wall« It has suf^rted a statue^ and -on the shaft 
is an inscription flf. ** The people have erected. Me- 
*' nander, son of Ouliades, son of Euthydemus, a b&» 
^' nefactor to his country, and descended from bene* 
^ factors." The Turk, who lived in the cottage, 
readily permitted a ladder to be placed on the ter- 
race for measuring the capital, which was done as 
expeditiously as possible, but not before we were in* 
formed that several of the inhabitants murmured 
because their houses were overlooked. Besides this, 
two fluted columns of the Ionic order remained not 
many years since. 

Euthydemus, the ancestor of Menander, was con- 
temporary vrith Augustus Caesar. He was of an 
illustrious family, and possessed an ^nple patrimony. 
He- was eloquent, and not only great in his own 
country, but respected as the first person of Asia 
Minor. His power was so advantageous to the dty^ 
that, if it savoured of tyranny, the odium was over-p^ 
come by its utility. Hybreas concluded an oration 
with telling him he was a necessary evil. This de* 
magogue, who succeeded Euthydemus, had inherited 

s Inscript. Ant. p. 27. 



236 T&AVELS IN ASIA MIKOB. 

only a mule and its diiTer, eoi]dojed then, as many 
now are, in hringbig wood from the mountains fiir 
saleM 

Beneath the hill, on the eai^ side of the town» is 
an arch or gateway of marUe, of the Corinthian 
order. On the kejrstone of the exterior fiont» whidi 
is eastward, we obsenred a douUe hatdiet, as on the 
two maiUes near Myus\ It was with difficulty we 
procured ladders to reach the top ; and some were 
broken before we could find three suffidently long 
and strong for our purpose. The going up, when 
these were united, was not without danger. The 
aga had expressed some wonder at our employmmt, 
as described to him ; and seeing one of my compa- 
nions on the arch, from a window of his house, which 
was opposite, pronounced him, as we were told, a 
brave fellow, but without brains. We desired him 
to accept our umbrella, on his sending to purchase 
it for a present to a lady of his haram, who was 
gcnng into the country. By the arch was a foun- 
tain, to which women came with earthen ]»tdiefs 
for water, and with their faces muflSed. 

We saw a broad marble pavement, with vestiges 
of a theatre, near the Corinthian column. Toward 
the centre of the tovni we observed a small pool of 
water, and by it the massive arches of some public 
edifice. In the court of the aga*s house was an altar 
much ornamented. We found an altar likewise in 
the streets, and a pedestal or two half buried, with 
pieces of ancient wall. Round the town are ranges 
of bi^ken columns, the remnants of porticoes, now, 
with rubbish, bounding the vineyards. A large por- 
tion of the plain is covered with scattered fragments, 

*> Strabo, p. 659. » Heraclea. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 287 

and with piers of ordinary aqueducts; besides in-* 
scriptions, mostly ruined and illegiUe. Some altars 
dedicated to Hecatomnus have been discovered. 

About a quarter of a mile from the town is a se« 
pulchre^, of the species called by the anGia[its rfw^ 
tega^ or double^roofed. It consisted of two square 
rooms. In the lower, which has a doorway, were 
deposited the urns with the ashes of the deceased. 
In the upper, the relations and friends solemnized 
the anniversary of the funeral, and performed stated 
rites. A hole made through the floor was designed 
for pouring libations of honey, milk, or wine, with 
which it was usual to gratify the manes or spirits. 
The roof is remarkable for its construction ; but two 
stones are wanting, and some distorted. It is sup* 
ported by pillars of the Corinthian order, fluted, some 
of which have suffered from violence, being hewn 
near the bases, with a view to destroy the fabric for 
the iron and materials. The shafts are not circular, 
but elliptical^; and in the angular columns square. 
The reason is, the sides, which are now open, were 
closed with marble pannels ; and that form was ne^ 
cessary to give them a due projection. The inside 
has been painted blue. This structure is the first 
object, as you approach from lasus, and stands by 
the road. The entrance was on the farther side, the 



^ See a similar edifice in Mountfaucon, t. 5. Tab« 27. 

' See a column described as singular by Tournefort, p. 339- 
SeePococke, p. 56. 

This fabric was ornamented with half columns both without 
and within, and their shafts being formed of one piece> to which 
is added the thickness of the pannels that enclosed them, give 
them the appearance of being ellipUcal, which has produced this 
mistake. R. 



SS8 TRAVELS^ IN ASIA MINO|L 

ascent to it proUbljr by a pair of steps, ocdttionaUj 
appKcd and remoTed. 

Going down froin tUs buikUng, and turning from 
Mylasa, westward, you hare the mountain on the 
right hand, and come, in about an hour, to another 
sepulchre. This is cut in the rock, Iu§^ up in the 
side, near the top, and very difficult of access. With* 
in the doorway on each side is a seat or bendi, on 
which, it is likely, the urns were placed ; and beyond 
is a nnallfir camera, or ardied room. Over the en^ 
trance, without, is carved in basBo relievo a fa9ade ; 
two Tuscan pillars between two pilasters, with an 
entablature and pediment, and a door. The slcpe 
of the mountain has been covered with innumerable 
sepulchres. In this the Swiss, as he told us, had 
persevered, di^ng for three nights, hoping to find 
some hidden treasure. 

Jupiter,, called by a local name Hosogo or Hogoas, 
had in the city a temple, in which was a well of sea- 
water. Jupiter, styled Carius, had also a temple, 
which was common to the Carians, and Lydians, 
and Mysians, as the same people. This was not in 
the town, but had once a village near it. On a steep 
abrupt rode, in sight from Mylasa, to the south, and 
distant an hour and three quarters, crossing the 
plain, is a ruined town called Paitshin, and a castle, 
which was repaired as a strong hold against Soley 
Bey. Part of the wall of this fortress, in which were 
a few cannon, stands on a flight of marble steps, 
probably belonging once to the latter temple. Near 
it are many deserted mosques and buildings, and a 
ruined church stiU used by the Greeks. The site of 
the former temple might perhaps be discovered, if 
diligent inquiry were made in the town for its well. 



TRATHLS IN ASIA MINOB. 1139 

The Mylasiam were the pnofHrietcffs of the famous 
Japiter of Labranda. The gateway ^, on which his 
symbdi^ a double hatchet^ is carved, was probably 
that leading to his temple, which was at. a distance 
fieom the city. The god often occurs on medak, 
holding the hatchet. Hercules, it is related, killed 
the Amazon Hippolyte, and gave this, her weapod, 
to Omphale, queen of Lydia. From her it descended 
to the kings her successors, and was used as an en- 
sign of rojralty. Candaules delivered it, to be car- 
ried by one of his oflicers. Arselis, with auxiliaries 
from Mylasa, joining Oyges, when he revcdted, slew 
Canduks and the hatchet-bearer, and returned into 
Caria laden with spoils. He made a statue of Ju- 
piter, and placed the hatchet in his hand ". 



CHAP. LVII. 

TO £SKI*HISSAR — 'REMAINS OF STRATOl^ICEA— -ITS HISTORY 

MOUNT TAURUS ^TEMPLES OF HECATE AND JUFITER-r- 

INSCRIPTIONS — INTRODUCTION OF TOBACCO AND COFFEE 
INTO TURKEY — ANSWER TO A aUERV. 

Ths merchants preparing to leave Mylasa, and 
telling us we should find ruins at Eski-hissar, where 
they should stop next, we agreed to accompany them 
to that place, distant six hours eastward. We crossed 
the plain, with a long train of mules carrying their 
goods and servants, and ascended a mountain c^ 
veined marble, when the track became very steep 
and rough, winding by vast precipices. The slopes 
were corered with large firs and pines, many scorch- 

*" Arch. R. " Plutarch. 



240 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

ed or faDen, and some then on fire, spreading a 
strong smell of turpentine. The conflagration, we 
have before mentioned, had extended far into the 
country, as driven on and directed by the wind 
About mid-way we alighted to refresh, near a dear 
murmuring brook, shaded by pines and plane-trees. 
In the vales farther on were stalks of Turkey wheat, 
with camels feeding, and booths of the Turcomans. 
A shepherd, whom we met in a narrow pass, was 
armed, and followed by two dogs, and these by his 
flock. We saw ^me of the Turcomans ; the women 
with boots on ; and one canying a gun ; and their 
children leading camels. After travellii^ an hour 
and an half, Mylasa bore north-west; and on our 
return, we had the plain in view in about four 
hours. 

Eski-hissar, once Stratonicea, is a small village ; 
the houses scattered among woody hills, environed 
by huge mountains ; one of which, toward the south- 
west, has its summit as white as chalk. It is wa- 
tered by a limpid and lively rill, with cascades. The 
site is strewed with marble fragments. Some shafts 
of columns are standing, single ; and one with the 
capital on it. By a cottage we found two **, with a 
pilaster, supporting an entablature, but enveloped 
in thick vines and trees. In the side of a hill is a 
theatre, with the seats remaining, and ruins of the 
proscenium or front, among which are pedestals of 
statues; one inscribed, and recording a citizen of 
great merit and magnificence p. Above it is a mar- 
ble heap. The whole building is overgrown with 
ihoss, bushes, and trees. Without the village, on 

« Three. R. p Inacript. Awt. p. 29. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOIL f 41 

the Opposite side, are broken arches, with pieces of 
massive wall, and marble coffins. One of these is 
very lai^e, and douUe, or intended for two bodies. 
Several altars with inscriptions lie. about 4; once 
placed in the sepulchres. The inhabitants were 
very civil to us; and the Greeks, some of whom 
accompanied us, as inquisitive as ignorant. 

Stratonicea was a colony of Macedonians, and 
named from Stratonice, the wife of Antiochus Soter« 
The Selucidae or king8 had adorned it with sump^ 
tuous structures ; and it was a free city under the 
Romans. Hadrian is said to have reedified and 
named it Hadrianopolis ; and the remnants of ar- 
chitecture in general savoured of this emperor and 
of Antoninus, whose name occurred on a piece of 
architrave, much more than of the purer era of the 
Selucidae. 

The mountains round about Stratonicea are 
branches of Taurus % which, beginning in Caria and 
Lyda, and becoming exceedingly wide and lofty, 
extends eastward from the coast opposite Rhodes, 
to the extremities of India and Scythia, dividing 
the continent of Asia into two parts. The same 
mountain spreads in Caria to the river Mseander. 
Besides the city above mentioned, a small tovm is 
on record, called Stratonicea by Taurus. 

The Stratoniceans had two temples in their terri-* 
tory ; one of Hecate, at Lagina, in the way to Ephe-* 
sus firom Physcus, very fiamous, and visited by mul- 
titudes of people at the yearly congresses ; the other 
of Jupiter, styled Chrysaoreus, or with the gdden 

<i Inscript. Ant. p. 28, 29, 30. 

' Taurus bounds Uie opposite side of a sery wide plain beyond 
Stratonicea. R. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. R 



24S TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

swardy which was near the city, and common to all 
the Carians; who, as well as the lonians, met at 
stated times to sacrifice, and to deliberate on their 
affairs. This assembly was named the Chrysaorean 
system or body, and was composed of villages ; the 
greater number giving the cities, to which they be- 
longed, precedence in voting. The Stratoniceans, 
when the sanctuaries were reformed under Tiberius 
Caesar, produced before the Roman senate, by their 
deputies, the decrees of Julius and Augustus Caesar, 
confirming to Jupiter and Hecate their privilege of 
asylum. 

We found Jupiter Chrysaoreus mentioned twice 
on one stone ; and in the wall of a spacious court, 
before the house of the aga, was an inscription " re- 
lating to both deities. The preamble declares, that 
the city in many great and lasting dangers had been 
preserved by these its tutelar gods ; that their sta- 
tues in the senate^house furnished the most glaring 
evidence of their divine power and of their pre- 
sence; that crowds sacrificed and burned incense 
before them, supplicating or returning thanks, and 
testifying their religious veneration of them; the 
senate therefore decrees, that thirty boys, of good 
families, be chosen to go daily two and two in pro- 
cession, with their governors, to the senate-house, 
all dresised in white, crowned with olive, and bear- 
ing each a branch in their hands, with the citharist 
and herald, to sing a hymn, to be composed by So- 
sander. The stone is in two pieces, the characters 
large, with ligatures intermixed, and of a late age. 
In the same wall were other inscribed fragments * ; 

* See ChUhuU. Antiquitates Asiaiica, p. \55. 

* Inscript. Ant. p. 28. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 249 

and near it an altar, and manj marbles embossed 
with round shields. This aga was polite and affable 
beyond any Turk we had seen. His haram was im- 
penetrable^ or, as we were told» would have afforded 
us several inscriptions. 

We have mentioned the tobacco-plant, as grow- 
ing in the plain of Mylasa. Here the leaves were 
now gathered, and hanging in strings against the 
walls of the cottages to dry. The use of it and of 
coffee has been prohibited under some sultans. The 
smoking it, now so universal, was in 1610 a novel 
practice even at Constantinople"; where a Turk 
had been recently led about the streets in derision, 
with a pipe thrust through his nose, as a punish- 
ment to deter others from following his example. 
The Turks were then strangers to the plant, and 
content to purchase the refuse of the English mar- 
ket, not understanding the commodity. The know- 
ledge of coffee and of its virtues was . imported from 
Arabia ; and, by the Turkish account ^, the first cof- 
fee-house was established at Constantinople in 1554. 

From the traveller who has remarked the inex- 
perience of the Turks in the American weed, we 
learn that the English were then unacquainted with 
the oriental berry. He describes the Turks as sit- 
ting in houses resembling taverns, sipping a drink 
called coffa, in little china dishes, as hot as they 
could endure, black as soot, and tasting not much 
unlike it. To this description of coffee he subjoins, 
*• Why not the black broth of the Lacedaemonians ?" 
a question, I believe, hitherto unanswered. I shall 
reply to it, that for making their black broth, the 

"^ Sandys, p. 51. 

^ Hist, de TAcad. des Inscriptions, t. xxiii. p. 284. 



K 



244 TRAVELS tS AStA MINOR. 

cook was fiimished with salt and vin^ar, and bid 
to procure what was wanting from a victim y. This, 
it has been conjectured, was blood. The epicure 
will not lament that the entire recipe has not reached 
us. '^ 



CHAP. LVIIL 

FROM MYLASA TO lASUS — ^TO MBNDELBT-— A TBMPI£ — ^AN 
ANCIBNT TOWN— OF LABBANDA AND THB TBMPLB OF JU- 
PITBR— INSCRIPTIONS THE MOUNTAIN WB REENTER 

r 

IONIA. 

The month of October was now ending. The 
nights, to which our men were often exposed^ with-> 
out any cover, grew cold ; and our janizary was ill. 
We found it necessaiy to hasten to our winter quar- 
ters. We engaged the Swiss, whom we met at My- 
lasa on our return to the khan, in our service, pleas- 
ed with his activity and intrepidity. The purchase 
of a horse to carry him was managed by our Turk, 
who, with the seller opposite, sate on the ground 
cross-legged, and told down some pieces of gold, 
and after a pause added to them, and so continued, 
until the price was accepted. We passed the first 
night, leaving Mylasa, in the sepulchre at lasus. 

On the way from lasus to Mendelet, Which is di&« 
tant four hours, and three from Mylasa, we left the 
level green, with the booths of the Turcomans men- 
tioned before, on our right hand ; and, riding north- 
ward, through stubble of Turkey wheat, came in an 
hour to a beautiful and extensive plain covered with 
vines, olive, and fig-trees, and flocks and herds feed- 

> Plutarch. 



TBAVSI.S IN ASIA MINOB. 245 

ing ; and Skirted by mountains, with village& We 
crossed it by a winding road, with the country-house 
of the aga of Mylasa on our right hand ; and, pass-^ 
ing a village called lakli, unexpectedly discovered 
the solemn ruin of a temple ; but, as it was dusk, 
we continued our journey to Mendelet, which was 
an hour farther on. The merchants, our late com- 
panions, had given us a letter to some Armenians, 
who kindly admitted us to partake in their apart- 
ment in the khan, which was full. 

We returned in the morning to the temple, which 
was of the Corinthian order; sixteen columns, with 
part of their entablature standing ; the ceil and roof 
demolished. It is in a nook or recess; the front, 
which is toward the east, close by the mountain- 
£30t ; the back and one side overlooking the plain. 
The style of the architecture is noble, and made us 
r^ret, that some members, and in particular the 
angle of the cornice, were wanting. Its marbles 
have been melted away, as it were piecemeal, in the 
furnaces for making lime, which are still in use, by 
the ruin. / 

A town has ranged with the temple on the north. 
The wall, beginning near it, makes a circuit on the 
hill, and descends on the side toward Mendelet. 
The thickets, which have overrun the site, are al- 
most impenetrable, and prevented my pursuing it 
to the top, but the lower portion may easily be 
traced. It had square towers at intervals, and was 
of a similar construction with the wall at Ephesus. 
Within it is a theatre cut in the rock, with some 
seats remaining. In the vineyards beneath are 
broken columns and marble fragments ; and in one, 

behind the. temple, two large massive inarble cof- 

tt 3 



246 TftAV£LS IK ASIA MINOB. 



fins, carved with festoons and heads; the lids on, 
and a hole made by force in their sides. They are 
raised on pediments ■ ; and, as you approach, appear 
like two piers of a gateway. Beyond the temple 
are also some ruins of sepulchres. I was much dis* 
appointed in finding no inscriptions to inform us of 
the name of this deserted place; which, firom its 
position on a mountain by the way-side, and its dis- 
tance firom Mylasa, I am inclined to beUeve was 
Labranda. 

Labranda, according to Strabo, was a village, 
seated on a mountain, in the road firom Alabanda to 
Mylasa. The temple was ancient, and the image of 
wood. This was styled the Military Jupiter, and 
was worshipped by the people all around. The way 
was paved near sixty-eight stadia, or eight miles 
and a half, as far as Mylasa, and called sacred, 
fi^m the victims and processions which j^assed on it. 
The priesthood was conferred on the most illustrious 
of the citizens, and was an office held for life. .£lian * 
has added two stadia, or a quarter of a mile, to the 
distance of the temple firom the dty ; and relates, 
that in it was a clear fountain with tame fish, which 
wore golden necklaces and earrings. 

The ruin of this temple coincides with the de- 
scription of it given by the geographer. The fabric 
tottering with age was, it seems, after his time gra- 
dually renewed, and chiefly by the contributions of 
the Stephanephori, or high priests. For on seven 
columns is an inscription \ which may be thus trans- 
lated : ^ Leo Quintus, son of Leo^ when Stephane- 

* PedesUls. R. 

• De Nat. Animal, lib. xii. c. 30. 
^ Inscript. Ant. p. 19. 



TBAYELS IN ASIA Mli^OB. 247 



ft 



ft 



phorus, gave this column, as he had promised, with 
the base and capital." And the following inscrip- 
tion ^ is repeated on five or more of the columns, with 
some variation as to the length of the lines, and the 
ligatures of the letters : " Menecrates, son of Mene^ 
crates, chief physician of the city, when Stephane- 
phorus, gave this column, with the base and ca- 
pital ; Tryphaena, his daughter, herself likewise 
Stephanephorus and gymnasiarch, having provided 
** it/' From the form of certain characters in the 
latter inscriptions, it may be inferred, that Leo was 
the earlier benefactor. 

We were visited here every evening by a flock of 
goats and their keeper. I ascended the acclivity pf 
the mountain by the temple, and from the summit 
had an extensive view of the plain toward Mylasa. 
It was green with the cotton-plant and with vines. 
I would have tarried to enjoy this prospect, which 
was delicious, but was much annoyed with thick 
smoke ; a fire, either accidental, or designed to con- 
sume the herbage, spreading along the side of the 
mountain, crackling, and seeming to threaten, un- 
less I hastened away, to intercept my retreat. 

When the Carians and lonians revolted from Da- 
rius, they retired after a defeat near the river Mar- 
syas to Labranda, to the large and holy grove of 
plane-trees, where they were joined by other troops 
and by the Milesians. The distance between Men- 
delet and Miletus is reckoned nine hours. On the 
way thither we discovered My us \ as has been re- 
lated. Our course from Mendelet was twenty-five 
minutes north of west, with the summits of Tita- 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 1 9. *^ Heraclea. R. 

R 4 



248 TKAV£L8 IN ASIA MINOE. 

wu^ in yriew befim us. We al^hfeed after two 
hours, it being dusk, at Tarismanla, a village near 
the end of the plain, and waited beneath aome trees, 
until our men oould piocure us a place to lodge in, 
when a sudden gust of wind carried awaf one of 
our hats into a deep weD. In the moming we as- 
cended the mountain faj a winding track diaded 
with pines, myrtle, and fragrant shrubs. We en- 
joyed on it a fine view of the plain, which we then 
left in our rear. The road was rough and narrow 
to Bafi, where we amved in an hour. Beyond it 
we passed an old castle on a hill, and soon afta* had 
the lake with Ufa Bafi or Mjus^ in sight The 
reader may recollect that we found near this city 
marUes, which mention Jupiter of Labranda. Our 
journey fitmn thence to Miletus has been already re- 
kted. 



CHAP. LIX. 

WS LXAVB MTUS^ — THB MOUNTAIN BY MSNDKLBT— SOUmCBS 
OF A RIYXR— AT CARPUSBU— SKPUIjCHaBS AND A 8TA- 
DIUM-—OTHJUL RBMAIN9-— ALABAMDA— THS RIVBR HAR- 
PASUS— THB ILCANDBE. 

The merchants, to whom we were recommended 
at Mendelet, informed us that Carpuseli was a place 
which afforded many antiquities. In our second tour 
we agreed to go thither from Myust^. We set out on 
the 18th of April in the evening, and, aft^ riding 
an hour and a half by the head of the lake, pitched 
our tent for the night under a spreading tree by a 

<> Latmos. R. « Heradea. R. 

' Heraclea. R. s Ueraclea. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOIL 849 

stream. Here we were serenaded in a disagreeaUe 
manner ; frogs croaking, as it were, in chorus ; owls 
hooting ; jackals in troops howling ; and the village 
dogs barking. 

In the morning we again entered the plain men- 
tioned in the preceding chapter; and, crossing it 
near the end, came to the foot of the mountain, and 
began ascending with Mendelet on our right hand ; 
the track, as may be conjectured, that which once 
led from Alabanda toward Miletus, and by Labran- 
da to Mylasa. It winded northward by a small ri- 
ver with fish, the water forming cascades, and turn- 
ing an overshot-mill or two in its way down to the 
lake. On the sides ate furnaces for working iron. 
Near the top we found a Turk sitting on the 
ground, while his horse was feeding, by a spring, 
under a tree. 

In descending on the opposite side of the moun- 
tain, we passed some Turkish graves, which had 
each a bough of myrtle stuck at the head and feet. 
Beyond these were the sources of a river, probably 
that once called Harpasus^, pellucid, and many in 
number. We pitched our tent below them on a 
brow by a Turkish village, after a continued and 
very laborious ride of ten hours. 

We were on horseback again between six and 
seven in the morning, and travelled first eastward, 
and then south-eastward ; the road good, the slopes 

^ More probably a stream that runs into the Harpasiis ; for 
after we left, we crossed a plain, and came upon the banks of the 
Harpasus, the China of Pococke, which rises in a different part 
of the country, has a much longer course, and is a much more 
considerable ^tream^ than the rivulet above mentioned. See p. 
255. R. 



250 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

covered with pines. The springs, which we saw the 
day before, had now united into a rapid transparent 
stream, abounding in fish. Our course lying to the 
south-east, we crossed it, and on the way met a 
Turk, a person of distinction, as appeared firom his 
turban. He was on horseback, with a single at- 
tendant. Our janizary and Armenians respectfully 
alighted, and made him a profound obeisance, the 
former kissing the rim of his garment. He asked 
some questions, and went on. We arrived about 
noon at Carpuseli, a village twelve hours north of 
Mylasa. 

As we approached this place, many ancient graves 
occurred, cut on rocks as at MjrusS, and reaching 
over a tract of considerable extent ; with some cof- 
fins,, mostly plain, or without mouldings, of a brown 
coarse stone, and with holes broke in the sides. 
We rode by these, and through a ruined stadium, 
now the bazar, or market, the way lying between the 
shops, which formed a street. We pitched our tent 
further on, near the square basement of a large se- 
pulchre, of handsome solid masonry, and inhabited ; 
standing not far from one side of the city-wall, 
which may be traced, except toward the plain, and 
was of the masonry termed pseudisoehmum. Some 
Turks came to us here, and one desired wine. He 
took his turban from his head, kissed, and laid it 
aside ; and, after drinking, replaced it with the same 
ceremony. 

We ascended the mountain by a way paved, but 
rough and slippery. The remains, which we had 
seen from below, were a terrace-wall, with a square 

& Heraciea. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 251 

area, and vestiges of a colonnade. Many pedestals 
are standing, of a coarse, brown, ragged stone. Be- 
yond these, in the rock, is a theatre, with remnants 
of the front ; a cistern, a square tower, and the city- 
wall enclosing a summit ; near which is another, with 
seven deep oval dstems in a row, lined with plaster^ 
At a distance behind them are four piers of a broken 
aqueduct. A pond or two carefiilly embanked at 
the mountain-foot are the present reservoirs. The 
plain is encompassed with hills, is pleasant, and has 
a stream running in it toward the Harpasus. 

I was here again disappointed in finding no in- 
scription to inform us of the ancient name of the 
place ; but suppose it to have been Alabanda. That 
city is described as situated beneath the summits of 
a mountain. The founder Alaibandus was worship- 
ped there with greater devotion than any of the 
noble deities. The people were luxurious and glut- 
tonous, and the city was full of female minstrels. 
It was much infested with scorpions, as were in 
general the places lying on the range of mountains 
between it and Mylasa. The ridge of Alabanda 
had been likened to an ass with a pack-saddle ; and 
a wag added, carrjing a load of these insects. Po- 
cocke relates, that at Mendelet some persons die, 
every summer, by their sting. 

Leaving Carpuseli at six in the morning, and 
going north-eastward, in about an hour and a half 
we forded the Harpasus \ the bed now wide, crook- 
ed, and sandy. Our course changing a little to the 
east, we crossed it several times, and passed by 

^ The rirulet we passed the day before. After this we crossed 
a plain, and at ten came upon the banks of the Harpasus. See 
p. 249. R. 



i5i TBATELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

gome villages. At ten we proceeded Dorthvard, on 
its bank, in a Talley. We were surroonded with 
the deUgfatful trilling of innumerable nightingales ; 
and the fish were visible in the crystal stream. This 
river is described by the shefdiard-poet of Smyrna 
as impetuous aft^ rain, roaring whole dajrs at its 
junction with the Maeander K A town^ called from 
it Harpasa, is mentioned by Pliny ; now, if I mis- 
take not, Arpas-kalesi, a ruined jdace, walled, on a 
hill above a small plain between the mountains, 
about a mile south of the Maeander, directly oppo- 
site to Nosli K 

We passed several villages, and leaving the dear 
Harpasus behind us, came at one to the turbid Mas- 
ander, then deep in its bed ; a side of the bank torn 
away by the violence of the current. We were two 
minutes in ferrying over in a triangular boat, the 
rope of vine stocks hanging down lax in the water. 
The stream below made ^n elbow. An ordinary 
causey, across some low morassy ground, succeeded, 
with groves of tamarisk, and a wide road, on which 
we met many people. The ferry is distant about 
an hour from Guzel-hissar, once called Magnesia by 
the Maeander. 



CHAP. LX. 

FOCOCKB'^S JOURVEY to CAaPUSBLi — TO MYLASA — ^TO KSKI- 
aiSSAR, OR ST&ATONICSA, AND PLACES Al>JACBNT — TO 
ARABl-HISSAB, OR ALINDA. 

Vr E shall give here an abstract of Pococke*s jour- 
ney into Caria from Guzel-hissar ^ He passed the 

• Q. Smyrnaeus, i'. v. 144. ^ Pococke. > P. 57. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 259 

Meander at the ferry, when the bed was iull ; the 
stream rapid, and a furlong broad. He describes the 
vine-bonghs, of which the rope consisted, as about 
an inch and a half in diantieter, and from ten to fif^ 
teen feet long. Three men pulled the boat over, a 
post fixed in it resting against the rope. The mouth 
of the Harpasus, which he calls the China, is, as he 
relates, about a mile below the ferry. The river has 
a wooden bridge, about eight miles further eastward 
built on nine or ten large stone piers, and about three 
hundred feet long. He crossed there, and went on 
a league to Salashar, where he lodged in a miserable 
khan. The next day the road lay between little 
green hills for about a league and a half, when he 
came into the small fertile plain of Carpuseli, and to 
the ruined city on the south of it ; which, he ob- 
serves, exactly answers to the situation of Ala«- 
banda. 

From the south-east comer of this plain, Pococke 
ascended southwards, about three miles, to the top 
of the mountain, where is a plain about a league 
broad. He calls the range mount Latmus, and was 
told it was frequented by wolvesj wild boars, and 
jackals, and also by bears and tig^s. Many herds- 
men dwell on it ; and in some places it was plough* 
ed up, and the fields enclosed, with large trees laid 
round the edges. A low, easy descent, led into the 
vale of Mylasa, which he computes about four leagues 
long and one broad. 

He set out from Mylasa on the 20th of February 
for Eski-hissar or Stratonicea, distant about twelve 
miles, and crossed the mountains to the north-east. 
He describes that place as between bilk, on a level 
spot opening to a large plain, in which the river 



254 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

China rans. He descended from thence, and going 
a league to the north, and Uien about two to the 
west, ascended near a league to a Tillage called La- 
kena; about a mile from which is a ruined castle, 
strongly situated. The next morning he went about 
two leagues north to the river Paieslu, which runs 
into the China ; and then crossing the hills to the 
west, for the space of three leagues, came to one of 
the villages called Akshouieh ; and going on a league 
to the west, between low rockj hills, and by the side 
of a rivulet with a bridge, which he passed over, saw 
a remnant of an old aqueduct ; and entering a fine 
plain, travelled across it two miles northward to the 
village of China, which is situated at the east end, to 
the south of the river of that name. He went up 
the hill, of which the top had been fortified, and saw 
there two or three sepulchral grots, and a dstem 
cased with brick, above ground, consisting of two 
oblong square compartments. The village Lakena 
seems the ancient Lagina, where Hecate had her 
temple. The castle near it, and that by China, are 
probably the two in the territory of Stratonicea, once 
called Tendeba and Astragon. 

Crossing over to the south side of the plain from 
China, he came to Arabi-hissar, where are consider- 
able ruins of an ancient city, which he describes, and 
supposes to have been Alinda. From hence he went 
about a league south-west in the plain, crossed some 
low hills, and returned to Guzel-hissar, after repass- 
ing the bridge over the China. The river, says Po- 
cocke, rises in the south-east part of Caria, beyond 
Aphrodisias : and running through the valley, which 
is near Stratonicea and Lagina, turns to the north a 
little before it falls into the Maeander. The chain 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 255 

of mountains between the two rivers afford fine herb- 
age for sheep and black cattle, in which the countiy 
abounds. The reader will observe, that he has given 
a much longer course to the China than that assign- 
ed by us to the Harpasus™. He was ignorant of 
the transparent springs, which we discovered, and 
which plainly appeared the sources of this or the 
principal stream. 



CHAP. LXI. 

OF 6UZB1>HI8SAR — INTELLIGENCE OF THE PLAGUE — THE 
BASHA — FRIGHT OF OUR JANIZARY— MAQNBSIA — THE RI- 
VER LETHJEUS THE REMAINS OF HTLi£ DISTANCE 

FROM EPHESUS AND TRALLES. 

GruzEL-HissAR, the beautiful eastlef is a large and 
very populous town ; the houses mean, with trees,- 
lofty domes, and minarees of mosques interspersed ; 
a high hiU, anciently called Thorax, towering be- 
hind. It is the place of residence of a basha. Ttie 
air, in the hot months, is so bad as to be almost pes- 
tilential. We met many passengers on the road: 
and the burying-grounds were strewed with broken 
columns and remnants of marble. At entering the 
town, we were surprised to see around us innumer- 
able tame turtle-doves, sitting on the branches of 
trees, on the walls, and roofs of houses, cooing un- 
ceasingly. We were conducted to a miserable khan^ 
close, and crowded with people. 

We had here alarming intelligence of the plague 

™ Most likely he is right, and ours only a riv^ulet that runs into 
it. Sec the note, p. 249. R. 



256 TBAYELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

at Sihjrma, the daily havoc it made, and the rapidity 
with which the fierce contagion was then propagated; 
threatening to overspread the Whole country before 
the end of the summer. It was impossible a great 
thoroughfare, situated like Gruzel-hissar, if free, 
could continue long without infection. We had 
room to be apprehensive of the malady, and to be 
impatient to leave so suspicious a place, where we 
were pent up in a small chamber and gallery, among 
doves and travellers, chiefly Turks; devoured by 
myriads of insects ; and suffering aUke from extreme 
heat and from chagrin, not daring to go out of the 
gate before we had permission from the basha. 

This important officer lived in a despicable house 
on the hill ; his haram, which is more shewy, stand- 
ing separate, and both surrounded by an ordinary 
wall. Eight agas, each with a retinue of an hun- 
dred men, were then in the town, waiting his com- 
mands. We had a recomm^idatory letter to his 
mohurdar, or treasurer, which was ddivered, with a 
present of a handsome snuff-box, by the janizary, 
and graciously received. He promised to mention 
us to the basha, but bis engagements were so many, 
it was not easy to find an opportunity ; and in the 
mean time we were confined to our khan. 

Our unwieldy janizary had several tiresome jour- 
neys on this Imsiness up to the castle. On the second 
aftemo<m he returned with the welcome newis that 
we were at liberty. The mohurdar had requested 
for us letters to the agas farther eastward, but was 
denied ; the basha being then at enmity, and, before 
we left Asia Minor, at open war with some leading 
men in that part of the country. The janizary was 
pale and quivering, as with fear. He refused even 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 257 

coffee, and lay down to sleep with strong symptoms 
of violent perturbation. He had been engaged, as 
he afterwards related, in an insurrection of the jani-> 
zaries in the island of Gandia, to depose the go- 
vernor, who, for some offence, had seized on six of 
their brethren ; and when he was admitted into the 
presence of the basha, a privilege which the janiza- 
ries claim, to kiss his hand or garment, he imme- 
diately knew him to be that person ; but fortunately 
was not in turn recognized. This unexpected ren- 
counter had confounded poor Mustapha to such a 
degree, that he came back almost doubting whether 
his head was still on his shoulders. 

Magnesia was peopled by a colony of iEolians 
from Thessaly. The city was in the plain by Tho- 
rax, at no great distance from the Maeander, but 
much nearer to the Lethaeus, which rose in the 
Ephesian mountain Pactyas, and fell into that river. 
Its principal ornament was a temple of Diana, called 
Leucophryene, or the white-browed, which had the 
privilege of an asylum or sanctuary, and was larger 
than any in Asia, except the two at Ephesus and 
at Branchidae. It excelled the former in elegance 
and in the fitting up of .the cell, but was inferior in 
the number of ofTerrngs. It was a pseudodipterMf 
and had eight columns in front, and fifteen on the 
sides, counting the angular columns. The order was 
Ionic ; and the architect the celebrated Hermogenes, 
who invented that species. He was a native of Ala- 
hfmda ; Qnd a treatise on the fabric was once extant, 
written by him. A favourite dtharist was painted 
in the market-place, clothed with the sacred purple 
of Jupiter Sosipolis, or the saviour of the city ; and 
had also a brass statue in the theatre. Some hillocks, 

CHANDLBR, ASIA M. ^ 



258 TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

which we passed in our way from the ferry, were 
once the islets called Derasidae and Sophonia, men« 
tioned by Pliny as taken by nature from Magnesia. 
The town, which, when this happened, was not very 
remote from the sea, had in a more early period 
been maritime. The shore has since been gradually 
removed still farther off. 

The river Lethaeus divides the present town, 
which has a lofty but ordinary bridge over the 
course. It descends through a narrow and deep- 
worn vale, on the east side of the castle, with a 
mountain behind it of light brown earth, being a 
portion of Messogis. The stream, which in winter 
is a deep torrent, was now shallow. It received 
many brooks and rills on the sides, and was clear 
and rapid. Water bubbled up in several places in 
the bed, which was wide and partly dry. One of 
these springs is noted as remarkably cold and copi- 
ous ; and, as our guide told us, is highly esteemed 
and much drunk of by the Turks and other inhabit- 
ants during the hot months. .. 

Magnesia was given to Themistocles to supply 
bread for his table. The goddess Ceres, standing in 
a car drawn by winged serpents, and bearing in each 
hand a lighted torch, is seen on the reverse of a me- 
dallion of the emperor Antoninus ^ struck by this 
city : and in one of the streets we found a square 
capital, which it is likely belonged to her temple. 
The device on it was a poppy between two wheat- 
ears and two torches. We saw also many fragments 
of architecture of the Corinthian and Ionic orders. 
After viewing the town, we ascended to the castle, 

" See Museum C. Albani v. I . pi. 26. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 259 

and were conducted to an eminence, about a quarter 
of an hour beyond it, where is a ruin which resem- 
bles the arcade at Troas; consisting of a piece or 
two of wall standing, and three massive arches, each 
painted 'with a garland in the centre, and two on 
the sides, encircling an inscription, of which some 
letters, with ends of fillets, are visible. The fabric 
has been repaired or reedified, and some inscribed 
marbles are inserted in it, but too high to be legible* 
A Turk had purchased the materials ; but the ar- 
cade is too solid a building to be easily and suddenly 
demolished. We enjoyed from it a delicious prc«3- 
pect of the plain and of the Maeander. We disco- 
vered no stadium or theatre*^. The vestiges, if any 
remain, were concealed in the town by the build- 
ings ; or, without it, by stone fences, olive-trees, and 
nigh coni. 

In the territory of this city was a place called 
Hyte, with a cave sacred to Apollo. This was of 
no extraordinary size, hut the image of the god was 
one of the most ancient. It was believed that he 
furnished ability for every undertaking. His ser- 
vants leaped down the steep rocks and precipices ; 
or, felling tall trees, walked on them, with burdens, 
over the narrow passes of the mountain. The cave 
perhaps remains. I could get no intelligence of it 
or of Hylae ; but Picenini relates, that in the way to 
the house and garden, of the basha on the hill^ they 
were shewn a cave near the walls of the ancient city, 
which, they were told, extended underground as far 
as they could go in two days. 

^ But some remains of « tlieatre. R. 

sS 



260 TBATELS IN ASIA MTKOS. 

The great road to the east from E^esos was 
through Magnesia, Tralles» Nysa, and Antiochia. 
Magnesia, according to Straho and Pliny, was mily 
fifteen miles from Ephesus, bat Pioenini makes it 
eleven hours from Aiasaliick. He set out with his 
companions before five in the erening, going south* 
ward, and came to the vale, in which is the andent 
trndge. They passed then over hills and through 
valleys. The next day they traveDed in a pleasant 
plain, very extensive on their right hand, with the 
high tops of a mountain on their left, and arrived at 
Magnesia. The mountain was Messogis, and the 
plain that of the Maeander ; but they seem not to 
have taken the direct road. The distance of Mag- 
nesia fit>m TraUes was about eighteen miles. The 
way to it was in the plain of the Maeander. This 
was also on the right hand, and Messogis on the 
left; which arrangement was continued as far as 
Nysa and Antiochia. 



CHAP. LXII. 

OF TRALUBS AND NTSA CHARACA — TRALLXS RBSTORKD BY 

AUGUSTUS CiESAR ^DEJ$TROTSD BTTHB TURKS ^REBUILT 

—OF BRIULA, MASTAURA, AND ARM ATA. 

TiiALL.ES and Nysa were situated alike with re- 
spect to the plain, being both above it to the north. 
Tralles was seated on a flat, the eminence termi- 
nating in an abrupt point, and inaccessible all around. 
The greater part of Nysa reclined on the mountain^ 
which was Messogis ; and the dty was divided, as 
it were, into two, by a torrent, which had formed a 



TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOE. 261 

deep bed. One portion of the course had a faridge 
over it, to connect the sides ; and another was adorn^ 
ed with an amphitheatre, under which a passage 
was left for the waters. Below the theatre were 
two precipices ; and on one of them was a gymna- 
sium ; on the other, the agora or market-place, and 
the senate-house P. 

In the way between Tralles and Nysa was a vil- 
lage of Nyseans, not far from the city, Characa or 
Acharaca ; and a Plutonium or temple of Pluto and 
Proserpine, with a beautiful grove above it, and a 
charonium or cave, of a wonderful nature. Thither 
sick people resorted, and the deities were their phy- 
sicians; suggesting, as was believed, efficacious reme- 
dies in dreams, most commonly to the priests, who 
were expert in managing their patients, and would 
often lead them into the cave. They sometimes re- 
mained in it, as in a pit, several days fasting ; but 
persons not guided by them perished in it. A ge- 
neral assembly was celebrated there yearly, when, 
. toward noon, the youth of the gymnasium, with the 
boys, all naked and anointed, drove a bull with shout- 
ings to the mouth of the cave, where he was let loose, 
and on entering fell down dead. 

The geographer Strabo, who studied rhetoric and 
grammar at Nysa, mentions Tralles as inhabited, if 
any of the Asian cities, by wealthy persons ; some 
of whom were always asiarchae, or prefects of the 
province under the Romans. Among its eminent 
men^ his contemporaries, was Pythodorus, a native 
of Nysa, and friend of Pompey. But Tralles, though 

p Revett has bracketted the sentence which begins " One por- 
" tion— senate house," putting in the margin. See p. 213. [266.] 

s3 



26s TRAVELS IK ASIA MIKOA. 

an c^mlent and thriving plaoe^ seems then to have 
contained nothing very remarkable^. A prodigjr is 
recorded to have happened there in the civil war. 
A palm-tree was seen springing from between the 
stones of the pavement in the temple of Victory, in 
which a statue of Caesar had been erected. An 
earthquake happening, the edifices which suffered 
were rebuilt by Augustus. A writer' who lived in 
^e sixth century relates, that a husbandman named 
Chaeremon, in a transport of aflSiction and zeal for 
his country, hastened to the emperor, who was then 
in Cantabria, and by his entreaties prevailed on him 
to restore the city, which, he observes, had retained 
its form unaltered from that period. He found in a 
field near Tralles a pedestal, which had supported a 
statue of this person, and copied from it the inscrip- 
tion, which he has preserved. It is in the Doric 
dialect, which was spoken there, and introduced by 
the Argives, who, with some Thracians, founded 
Tralles. 

The Turks in 1175 making an irruption into the 
Roman empire on this side, and laying it waste, 
Tralles and Antiochia capitulated. In 1266 they 
seized many towns and monasteries; but Tralles, 
with other advanced places, was secured by the Ro- 
man general. In the following year the Turks ex- 
tended their frontier to the river Sangarius. Mi- 
chael Paleologus was then emperor. The garrisons 
by the Maeander, in Caria, Antiochia, and the inte- 
rior region, were exceedingly weak; and the for- 

*» Probably an Ionic temple dedicated to JSsculapius^ the work 
of Argelius, on which he wrote a treatise. Vii. R. 
' Agathias. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 86S 

triesses by the Casystetf with Friene and Miletus, 
taken. 

Andronicus^ son of Paleologiis, and his associate 
in the eiDfitre, arriving with succours in IS^O^ was 
charmed with the situation of Tralles, and resolyed 
to rebuild the city, and replace in it the families 
which had been driven out. He intended calling it 
Paleologopolis or Andronicopolis ; and it is related, 
that on a marble dug up by the workmen an oracle 
was found inscribed, foretelling this restoration of 
Tralles, and promising long life to its new founder. 
.When the walls were raised, it became one of the 
most considerable {daces by the Maeander ; people, 
it is likely, flocking to it as a strong hold. It had 
•thirty 'five thousand inhabitants ; but was destitute 
both of reservoirs to receive r§iin, and of weUs, which 
it seemed impossible ■ to dig sufficiently deep. An 
army of Turks suddenly appeared, and intercepted 
.the supply of water from the river. The citizens 
persevering in their defence, they eptered by storm, 
and put them all to the sword; Andronicus not 
moving from Nympheum, near Smyrna. The Turks 
had before subdued Nysa^. 

On the same side of the Maeander were two other 
places worth mentioning, Briula and Mastaura, the 
former of which, on the establishment of Christi- 
anity, was made the seat of a bishop ; and in the 
mountain, above Nysa, was Aromata, or, as the 
name seems to have been pronounced, Armata, 
noted for its wine, which excelled any other pro- 
duced on Messogis. A villt^e named lack^ui, six 
miles eastward, is supposed by Pococke to have 

^ Pachemyrus, p. 320. 

s 4 



S64 TRAVELS IN ASIA JftlNOB. 

been Briula; and one, at an entrance in between the 
hills b, as he relates, still called Mastauro. He also 
mentions some walls on a very high summit over 
Njsa, which he conjectures may be remains of Aro- 
mata ; but that perhaps was the name only of a dis* 
trict planted with vines* 



CHAP. LXIII. 

WE ARRIVB AT SULTAN-HISSAR— OF BSKI>HISSAR — TBCB SUP- 

FOSBD SITE OF TRALLB8 ^NYSA APPROACH TO TRALLBS 

AND NTSA — THE REMAINS OF TRAtLBS — ORIGIN OF SUL- 
TAN-HISSAR— PROXIMITY OF TRAL1A8 AND NTSA— CON- 
TINUE OUR JOURNBY. 

W^E set out from Magnesia on the SSd at noon' 
going eastward. By the road near the town were 
several wells in a row, with Attic bases of columns 
perforated and placed over the mouths. These we 
supposed remnants of the famous temple of Diana. 
The way was straight and wide in the plain ; the 
soil light and sandy, like that of Messc^, the moun- 
tain on our left hand. On each side of us were 
orchards of fig-trees sown with com; and many 
nightingales were singing in the bushes. We passed 
some dry water-courses and rivulets running down 
to the Maeander ; which was once in view, the stream 
winding, with a ferry. It was dusk when we pitch- 
ed our tent by Sultan-hissar, which is about five 
hours from Magnesia. 

Sultan-hissar is an old fortress with houses in and 
by it. Standing in the plain ; the site corresponding 
neither with that of Tralles nor with Nysa. It has, 
however, some marble fragments, which have been 
removed from adjacent ruins; and on inquiry, we 






TRAVELS IN ASIA MIKOB. 865 

were infonned that the eminence before us had on 
it some remains of old buildings ; that tiie place was 
called Eski-hissar, and distant about half an hour. 
We now expected to find Tralles and Nysa ^ there. 
It stands on a root " of mount Messogis, running out 
into the plain and ending abruptly; once perhaps 
what it now resembles, a lofty promontory encom- 
passed with smooth water. 

In the morning we crossed the plain to the foot of 
the eminence, which we ascended ^ going toward 
the body of mount Messogis. The road up it was 
stony, and carried over a deep but dry water-course 
by an arch. Then followed broken vaults of sepul- 
chres, and distinct remnants of buildings 7, all strip- 
ped of their marble ; standing on a flat covered with 
cofm, trees, fences, and walls. This immediately ap- 
peared to me to be the site of Tralles, which . had a 
river or torrent near it called Eudon *• 

Leaving these ruins, the road, still on the emi- 
nence, carried us eastward, and then to the south. 
We passed by a few cottages, where I inquired for 
the Charonium, thinking we were at Characa. We 
soon came to other vaults of sepulchres and ^ ruins, 

^ and Nysa] or Nysa. R. 

^ It stands on a root] Revett has drawn his pen through these 
words, and written in the margin, ** Nysa stands on the declivity." 
The remainder of the sentence from the word ''once" to the 
end he has struck his pen through. 

' In the morning — ^we ascended] Revett reads, ** In the mom- 
** ing we ascended from the plun.** 

^ Probably the walls of Nysa. R. 

2 marble; — ^Eudon.] For these words Revett has substituted, 
'' The site of Tralles was a flat on an eminence surrounded by a 

precipice on all sides, to which this has no resemblance/' 
vaults of sepulchres and] Revett has erased these words. 



a 



^66 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB* 

pkiDly of Nysa; not on a flat^ Here we fomad a 
harge theatre in the mountahi-mde, with many rows 
of seats^ almost entire, of Uue-veined marble, fronting 
westward ^. By the left wing is a wide and very 
deep water-course, the bed of the river once called 
Thebaites, making a vast gap into the plain, but 
concealed in the fix>nt of the theatre, where is a wide 
level area, with soil, supported by a bridge ; beyond 
which, in the hollow, was the stadium, or, accord- 
ing to Strabo, the amphitheatre ^, with the seats rest- 
ing on the two slopes. The bottom of this structure 
is destroyed, and only some masses of brickwork re- 
main, with some marble fragments by the end next 
the theatre, where you have a view of the lofty and 
solid piers, with arches, sustaining the aiea. The 
eminence terminates on each side of the amphithe- 
atre ® in a precipice. On one side is the ruin of the 
gymnasium ^ and on the other, of the senate-house^; 
by which is the area^ or vacant space of the market. 
The site of Nysa, as well as of Tralles, was covered 
with com, and fences of piled stones. We had fi*om 
it a delicious prospect of the plain and of the crooked 
Maeander. Our guide assured us we had now seen 
all the ruins near Sultan-hissar. 

^ of Nysa; not on a flat.] Revett has erased these words. 

^ Southward. R. 

^ by a bridge ; — amphitheatre,] Instead of these words Revett 
has substituted, ** by the end of a stadium situated in the hollow.'* 

^ Staidium. R. 

' gymnasium — senate-house — the area] Revett has written in 
the margin, '* These buildings are in too ruinous a state to ascer- 
" tain what they were ; but neither of them appear to have been 
*' a gymnasium. The area, confined by the mountain and theatre 
'* on one side, the stadium and ruin on the other, is not the least 
** applicable to the situation of an agora, which should be free of 
'* access in every part." 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 267 

s We have desoibed Tralles and Nysa as having 
one approach from the plain, on the west side of the 
eminence, where the road dividing leads oh the left 
to Tralles, and on the right to Njsa. This was the 
only avjenue which required to be defended ; and the 
Turks,, it is likely, stormed Tralles after undermining 
the wall there, or beneath the amphitheatre of Nysa. 

The buildings at Tralles, as may be inferred from 
the remains, were originally composed mostly of 
stones or pebbles, with .cement. Andronicus as it 
were destroyed the city by rebuilding it. The houses 
were hastily finished, and old Tralles in good mea- 
sure demolished by the new settlement ; of which 
the vestiges extant, after five hundred years, are few, 
be^es loose stones and rubbish. 
. In the year 1403 we find Tamerlane at Sultan- 
hissar : which fortress was probably erected by the 
Turks to cut off the communication with the river, 
or to prevent the Romans from settling again on the 
mountain. 

The ruins on the eminence, though separate, are 
at a veiy smaU distance'' from each other in a 
straight line. The distance of Tralles from Mag- 
nesia, in Strabo, is one hundred and forty stadia, or 
seventeen miles and a half; in Pliny, eighteen miles. 
^ Neither of these authors has noted the distance of 

s Revett has bracketted this and the following paragraph, end- 
ing with the words, " stones and rubbish,'* and written in the 
margin " Unintelligible." 

*» at a very small distance] JSo small, that most likely they are 
the remains- of the walls of Nysa. R. 

' Neither of these — between it and Tralles.] Revett has al- 
tered this passage as follows : '' Neither of these authors has 
'^ noted the distance of Nysa from Magnesia. They have also 
'' omitted the distance between Tralles and Nysa. Nysa is here 
*• ascertained by indubitable tokens." 



868 TEAYKLS IN ASIA MINOR. 

Nysa from Magnesia ; probaUy because included in 
that of Tralles. They have also omitted the dis- 
tance between Tralles and Nysa, as inconsiderable. 
If the materials and masses of buildings were re- 
moved from Tralles, its site would be no long» dis- 
tinguishable ; but at Nysa the hill will always re- 
tain the concavity or figure of a theatre. Nysa is 
here ascertained by indubitable tokens ; and its dis- 
tance from Guzel-hissar or Magnesia is an argument 
for the proximity which has been supposed between 
it and Tralles K 

We set forward again about noon, and riding 
through Sultan-hissar, came to Nosli-bazar, or the 
market qf NosU^ the town called Nosli-Boiuc, or 
Grreat NosU^ appearing Mrith white minarees at a 
distance on our right hand toward the Maeander. 
This place is supposed to have been Antiochia ^. We 
pursued our journey eastward without stopping. 



CHAP. LXIV. 

OP ANTIOCHIA, COSCINIA, AND ORTHOSIA PICENlNl's ROUTE 

TO NOSLl — ^TO JENI-SHEIR — ^TO GEYRA — TO IPSILI-HISSAR 

^TO LAODICBA REMARKS ^POCOCKE's ROUTE TO JENI- 

SHBIR AND GEYRA ROADS, AND DISTANCES OF PLACES. 

Antiochia, though a great thoroughfare, was but 
a middling city. It had a bridge over the Maeander^ 
and was liable to earthquakes. Its territory, which 

* The Tralles of Smith and Wheler is the real Nysa. ' See also 
PoGocke, p. 67. 

^ Antiochia is situated on a mount distinguished by some ruins 
on the south side of the Meeander. Nosli is on the north side, 
distant some miles from the former. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. S69 

lay on each side of the river, was lai^ and fruitfiil, 
and produced in plenty the figs, called Antiochene 
and three-leafed, the same, it is likely, which are 
now, as formerly, dried; and which we purchased in 
these parts, strung like beads, and found extremely 
good as well as cheap. In 1176 the town surrender- 
ed to the Turks ; and in 1198 was in danger from 
the sultan of Iconium, but escaped by an accident. 
In 1206 it was besieged by the Turkish army, and 
relieved by Lascaris, emperor of Nice. This region 
had besides two places beyond the Marauder worthy 
of notice, Coscinia and Orthosia; the latter after- 
wards an episcopal see. A stream running ironi 
Coscinia toward Alabanda was remarkable for its 
windings. 

Picenini and his companions left Guzel-hissar at 
five in the aftcfmoon, and at nine came to a hut 
called Chiosek or Chiauskui. The next morning 
they set out at six, and at eight reached Sultan-his- 
sar. Soon after they passed through a village called 
Homerkioi, in the way to the town of Nosli, where 
they arrived at eleven. They were pleased with the 
civility of the Turks, with the three mosques, the 
houses, ^nd the neatness of the streets. 

From Nosli these travellers went eastward through 
the plain ; and after about four hours stopped on the 
banks of the Maeander, which river they crossed the 
next morning, and then in an hour saw an old castle, 
called Jeni-sheir, upon a hill, with arched caves or 
vaults at the foot. They ascended to it, having 
passed a rivulet named Grengere, and found, besides 
thick walls, built with small stones, a few fragments' 
of columns. From these ruins, returning eastward, 
they had a fine view of the Maeander in the plain 



270 TRAVELS m ASIA MINOR. 

below, and found there a lion carved in white mar* 
Ue, the head and hind parts missing, the beck in* 
scribed with the word OAOC, the woy^ which shews 
it was designed as an index for passengers. 

Leaving the Mseander behind, thqr went on more 
to the south in a vale almost uncultivated ; and at 
noon halted by some mills near the source of tiie 
rivulet which they had repassed ; and arrived, after 
two hours more, at Greyra, distant twenty hours from 
GuzelJussar. There they met with many ruins and 
inscriptions ; and of the latter copied near an hun- 
dred. 

From Geyra, going eastward and sometimes north- 
wardly, among hills, they came to a lofty mountain, 
which they ascended by a rough track amid thickets 
and pines. Narrow valleys succeeded, and after four 
short hours they reached Ipsili-hissar, a castle on a 
pointed hill within the mountain, and two hours, as 
they were told, from the Maeander. They found 
there about fifty Turkish cottages and a mosque, 
by which were three inscriptions, with a few other 
remains. 

Their road lay again through narrow valleys. 
Afl;er two hours they thrice passed a rivulet called 
Hagi-sic, remarkable for winding like the Maeander, 
into which it runs ; and after three hours came to 
Gterelikioi, a pleasant village about a short hour fit>ntL 
that river. Going four hours more, eastward, among 
pleasant hills and vales, they arrived at Laodicea. 

It seems probable that Jeni-sheir was andently 
Orthosia, and that the vaults or ardies are remains 
of sepulchres ; and also that Ipsili-hissar was C!os^ 
cinia, and the winding rivulet that mentioned as 
running toward Alabanda. The inscriptions, which 



TRAVELS IN ASIA JlflNOR. 271 

they copied, proved Greyra to have been Aphrodisiasy 
a place ranked by Strabo among the smaller towns 
lying round about Laodicea and Apamea. Some o£ 
them have been published by Chishull; but many, 
more, equally worthy the attention of the learned^ 
are preserved in a manuscript, which was lord Ox^ 
ford's, now in the British Museum. 

Pococke ^ reached Jeni-sheir by a different route ; 

going from Nosli about four miles south to the Mae-i' 

ander, where was a wooden bridge ; and from thence 

to Arpas*kalesi ; then turning south, and going to a 

village two leagues farther eastward, at the entrance 

of a narrow vale, which extends southward between 

the hills. He describes Jeni-sheir as to the east of 

this place, a hill stretching from east to west with 

ruins on it of the walls of a town, and with a great 

number of arches underground. It was there thd 

Turkish army in 1739 subdued the famous rebel, 

Scdey Bey Ogle, who was slain, with four thousand 

of his followers. He then entered the narrow vale^ 

and going about eight miles to the south, left a town 

or large village on the west. This place, called Ca- 

rajesu, was invincible to Soley Bey, the deep beds of 

torrents protecting it from assault. He then turned 

eastward, and going four miles in a plain, which he 

computes about two leagues long from east to west, 

and one broad, arrived at Geyra ; from whence he 

returned to Nosli. 

We shall conclude this chapter with an account of 
the ancient route through Caria and Ionia, as pre- 
served, with the order of the places and their dis- 
tances, by Strabo. On the way to Ephesus from 

* P. 68. 



278 TKAYELS IK AHA lOKOB. 

Ph7Kii8» whidi was on the oontment of Asia cppo- 
site to Rhodes, 70a came to Lagina, distant dgfat 
hundred and fifty stadia, or one hundred six miles 
and a quarter; then to Ahbanda, two hundred and 
fiffy stadia, or thirty-one miks and a quarter; then 
to Tralles, one hundred and sixty stadia, or twen^ 
miles. The Maeander was crossed about midway 
between Alabanda and TraUes, where were the 
boundaries of Caiia ; and the whole distance from 
Physcus to the river was deren hundred and ei^^ 
stadia, or one hundred forty-seven miles and a half. 
From the Msander to TraUes the distance was 
eighty stadia, or ten miles ; then to Magnesia one 
hundred and forty stadia, or seventeen miles and a 
half; then to Ephesus one hundred and twenty, 
or fifteen miles; to Smyrna three hundred and 
twenty, or forty miles ; to Phocaea and the Ionian 
boundaries, less than two hundred, or twenty-five 
miles. Thus the extent of Ionia was a little mwe 
than eight hundred stadia % or one hundred miles. 
The most common road to the east from Ephesus, 
as has been mentioned before, was by Antiochia, 
and from thence to Carura, seven hundred and forty 
stadia, or ninety-two miles and a half; and then 
through Laodicea ^ and Apamea, called Cibotos. 



" Straljo gave also the extent of the coast of Ionia, with its 
windings ; but the passage is imperfect, p. 632. It is much les- 
sened since bis time between Ephesus and Posidium. 

" In Peutinger's table the distance between Carura and Lao* 
dicea is twenty miles; but the numbers can seldom be relied on. 

Peutinger*s, or the Theodosian, table is a most curious relique 
of antiquity. If the Antonine Itinerary, and the many distances 
of places and the different routes to be found scattered in various 
old authors, were carefully compared with it, most of the present 
difficulties would be removed ; the true readings would be restored. 



• _^» 



THAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 273 

CHAP. LXV. 

OUR JOURNBY CONTINUED — ^THE ASIAN MEADOW-^WB CROS^ 

THE MiBANDER— -CARURA RUIN OF A BRIDGE — A HOT 

SPRING. 

r 

The road which we took from Sultan-hissar was 
that which anciently led to Carura and to Laodicea 
in Phrygia, without passing through Antiochia. We 
met on it many pa^engers, and mules, and long 
strings of camels. The ground was dry, the soil 
fine, and covered with com, with fig and olive trees. 
Out course was a little north of east. After five 
hours we pitched our tent. A summit of the inoun- 
tain ®, on the south side of the Maeander, or of Tau- 
rus, which was opposite to us, had snow on it. On 
our left was a rising ground beneath the hilly range 
of Messogis, with a large village ; and on the level 
in the front Were many deep wells, each furnished 
vrith a tall pole supportitig a long lever, from which 
hung a rope and a wooden bucket to raise water fbr 
the caravans. 

Moimt Messogis, beyond Nosli-Bazar, becomes less 
wide and lofty than before, and is overtopped by 
mount Tmolus. I observed a remarkable gap in the x 
range of Messogis, opening a view into a green plain, 
at some distance on our left hand. I wished to ex- 
pI<H^ this pleasant region ; but our route was settled, 
and the sudden changing it might have been attend- 
ed with inconveniences, if not with danger. That 

the authority of the respective ^umbers would be ascertained, 
and ancient geography receive a considerable and very useful im- 
provement. For an account of Peutingers table, see p. 115. 
Acta Lipsiensia, for the year 1753. 
. «• Cadmus. R. ' 

CHANDLER, ASIA ti. T 



S74 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

was the place, if I mistake not, called Leimon, or 
the Meadow^ which is described as lying above 
mount Tmolus, and the southern parts of Messogis, 
thirty stadia, or three miles and three quarters, from 
Nysa. The inhabitants of this city, and all around 
it, held there a general assembly. They said it was 
the Asian meadow of Homer ; and shewed the mo- 
nument of Asius, and also of Cayster, with the source 
of the rivar named from him ; and not far off was 
the mouth* of a cave sacred to Pluto and Proserpine, 
supposed to communicate -with that at Characa« Be- 
sides these objects of inquiry, the traveller may, it is 
likely, discover a castle in this tract ; for we read 
that the grand duke Roger, after defeating the 
Turks, condemned the governor of the fort of Asi 
on the Maeander for deserting it. 

At seven in the morning we pursued our journey 
eastward, the mountains • now projecting, and the 
plain getting narrower. At* half after ten we pu^ed 
on to a coffee-shed by the road side ; a sudden gust 
of wind, from black clouds in the west, driving be- 
fore it a thick dust, which was followed by a furious 
shower in our backs. The brooks swelled^ and in 
the afternoon ran down Mrith noise to the Maeander. 
We tarried near three hours ; and then set out for' a 
ferry, which we were told would save us an hour. 
We arrived at it in three hours and a half. The 
current was strong and muddy, the float old and 
heavy, but we crossed in a minute and a quarter. 

We now approached the site of Carura, anciently 
a village with khans or inns for travellers ; in one of 
which a large company, while revelling, had been 
swallowed up by an earthquake. It was remarkaUe 
for surges or eruptions of hot waters in the river 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 2^5 

or on its mafgin p ; and was the boundary of Caria 
"toward Phiygia. 

Riding along the bank of the river, we discovered 
the ruin of an ancient bridge. The remnant was on 
the farther side, and consists of half of the central 
arch, with one smaller arch entire. This bridge was 
probably broken before the year 1244 ; when an in- 
terview being agreed on between the emperor of 
Nice' and the Turkish sultan, the latter passed the 
river, in his way to Tripolis, on a temporary bridge 
made of rafts for the occasion. 

The existence of Carura, it is likely, was deter- 
mined by the loss of the passage. We saw no traces 
of that place ; but, going near the ruin, one of our 
horses turned short, which led us to observe a vein 
of hot water boiling up out of the ground, like a 
jette, some inches perpendicular, and forming a small 
quagmire. We now enter Phrygia. 



CHAP. LXVI. 

> 

OUR JOURNEY CONTINUBB — ^TEMPLE OF MEN CARUS — ^DE- 
NI3I-I — ^TBE TURKS UNCIVILIZED — ARRIVE AT LAODICEA 

—OUR TENT BESET OUR JANIZARY SEIZSI>-— BEHAVIOUR 

OF AN AGA — THIEVES — ^THE WEATHER. 

Continuing our journey, we lost sight of the 
river ; the plain widened again^ and was cultivated, 
but not enclosed, as before. Messogis was now of a 
chalky aspect ; and the mountain on bur right green 
with trees. We saw a few scattered booths of Tur- 
cmnans. At four our course inclined to east-south- 

P Strabo, p. 578. See Pausanias^ p. 24 1 . 

T 2 



876 TBAVSL8 IN ASIA MINOS. 

east. We obserred many jays, and upupas^ and a 
beautiful bird, like a hawk^ with blue glossy plum- 
age. We had travelled eight hours and three gar- 
ters, when we pitched our tent by a village under a 
summit ^ covered with snow. 

The following day our course was as before, the 
river not in view. The sun shone very comfortably, 
and the melted snow ran in dirty- rills down the 
slopes. On the way some stones and vestiges of a 
building occurred ; perhaps of a temple once between 
Carura and Laodicea, called that of Men CarusS 
and held in high veneration. In Strabo's time a 
great school of physicians flourished there. The 
same author has mentioned a temple of Men Ascaeus 
or Arcaeus, also in Phrygia. The priesthood, which 
was dissolved, had possessed a multitude of conse^ 
crated servants and holy places. In Armenia was a 
temple of Men Phamaces, of vast sanctity ; the vil* 
lage resembling a city. The priest received the re- 
venue arising from the sacred servants and territory. 
These, with another or two noted by Strabo, were 
likewise temples of Selene. The deity worshipped 
in them was, it seems, that called by the Romans 
Lunus and Luna, or the moan. We arrived at 
Denisli in four hours. 

Denisli is fortified with an ordinary wall, which 
encloses a few cottages, and resembles S^igeck. 
The gateway, on our approach, was crowdol with 
men and boys. Our janizary and Swiss tarried there 
to purchase provisions and other necessaries, while 
we dismounted in a meadow at a small distance, 
expecting their return. Our baggage-horses w«e 

1 Cadmus. R. ' Strabo, p. 580. See p. 557. 577. 503. 



TBAYELS IK ASIA MIKOB* 277 

scarcely unloaded, when both rejoined us ; the Swiss 
ccwiplaining that the Greeks understood only the 
Turkish language, in which he was not expert ; the 
other, to inform us we were required by the owner 
of the ground to change our con&c or resting-place. 
We removed to a tree, under which we dined, by 
a muddy stream, and were wetted by a smart 
shower. 

We had lately perceived an alteration in the car- 
riage of the Turks ; who, in the interior regions, 
seldom see strangers, and are full of ferocity. A 
general want of cordiality toward us had been ap- 
parent» and some trifling insults we had received on 
the road Were forerunners of more inconvenient in- 
civilities. Some Turks here told us, we had no dan- 
ger to apprehend on this side of the plain ; but if we 
proceeded to Pambouk, on the farther side, we must 
be cautious, for the Turcomans in that quarter were 
robbers and murderers. 

We set out again for Eski-hissar, or Laodicea, 
then distant an hour northward, the way between 
hills. A Turk, whose dress and mien bespoke him 
above the common rank, overtook us ; and our men 
inqinring, courteously directed them to a commo* 
dious situation for our tent, which we pitched in the 
evening on a small rising, on the edge of the plain, 
by the junction of two streams. 

We were in general very much fatigued, and 
about sunset lay down to rest ; an Armenian or two 
watching our horses, which were staked and grazing 
by the tent. Some time after it was dark, we were 
suddenly surrounded by armed men, conducted by 
the Turk who had recommended this spot. Thdr 
business was to demand bac-sfaish for their aga. 

t3 , 



878 TRATELS IK ASIA MINOB. 

They pried into our baggage^ prandiig their long-' 
tailed horses, and threatening if they were not im- 
mediatdj gratified. We were too soundly asleep 
within the tent to be easily aw&kened. The Swiss^ 
shaking the relater by the hand, informed him of 
the quality and importunity of these unwelcome 
visitants. He was bid to tell their chief, that the 
aga should be satisfied in the morning ; and the jani- 
zary urging that the hour was unseasonable, and 
that we purposed staying, they were prevailed on 
to. depart, taking him with them to pacify their 
master. 

At the dawn of day a Turk was sent to observe if 
we were stirring, and the janizary set out with our 
firhman, and a present of coffee, sugar, and money ; 
but the aga declared he would ^ave at least an hun- 
dred and thirty piasters; and Mustapha, pleading 
our firhman, and presuming to remonstrate^ was 
seized, disarmed, and thrown into prison. In the 
mean time we were very uneasy at the tent, presag- 
ing no good from his long stay. After some hours: 
we saw him coming without his gun, pistol, or 
sabre; terrified and dejected. He exclaimed, we 
wcFe among rebels and robbers ; that the roads were 
beset to prevent our escape, and the aga, if we he- 
9itated to comply with his demand, was determined 
to cut us in pieces, and take possession of our bag- 

The Janizary described this aga as unomimonly 
fierce and haughty, and bade us apprehend the very 
worst consequences from his intemperance and sa- 
vage disposition. The impression made on him was 
communicated to our Armenians, and we all disliked 
our situation. After a short consultation, I gave 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MtNOR. 279 

him twenty zechins, affirming truly that we had no 
money to spare^ but might want even that sum be- 
fore we reached Smyrna. He ventured back, with 
some reluctance, into the presence of the aga, who 
was prevailed on to receive it, but with difficulty ; 
and then inquired about our firhman, which he be- 
fore had refused to hear named. The janizary re- 
turned to him again with it, and, after it had been 
read, he refunded nine of the zechins ; believing, as 
he was told, that we belonged to the English am- 
bassador, and were going from Smyrna to Constan- 
tinople, and fearing we might complain there of his 
behaviour. He now said he would be responsible 
for our safety. 

As soon as this business was adjusted, we began 
'to examine the site of Laodicea, which was close by 
us. On the first day we were attended by one of 
the aga's men, a mean» ill-looking fellow, who re- 
quired a piaster, his pay, and in the evening left us. 
The janizary, who by that time had slept away his 
£sttigue and chagrin, went back with him to the vil- 
lage, about an hour distant, for his bridle, which had 
been exchanged for one of no value. We were 
visited at our tent, during our stay here, by several 
of the natives and Turcomans, who manifested so 
savage and bad a disposition, that our men esta- 
Uished a regular watch. They stole our pipes, and 
took even earthen bowls ; a species of petty larceny, 
which exceedingly distressed some of our company. 

The Mseander, running between the hill of Lao- 
dicea and mount Messogis, divides the plain, which 
there becomes narrow. Our view eastward was ter- 
minated by mountains not very remote. The sum- 
mits on the south and south-east were covered with 

T 4 



aSO TB4VBL8 IK ASIA Mmitt. 

tsQ0W. From the fint quftrtar we bad a irery duvp 
pierciiig breeze at the dawn ci day ; and fimn the 
lattar^ as soon as the san was risen. At noon the 
atmosphere was smoky^ the sky hot and fiery ; and 
then cloudy^ with showers. It thundered in the 
north and north-west. We experienced* as it were, 
winter and summer in the space of twen^-four 
hours. 



CHAP. LXVII. 

OF LAODICBA— ^HB AMPHITBEATIIB — ^AN INSCRIPTION — A 
RUIN— THB ODBUM— OTHBR RBMAINS, AND TWO THRA- 
TRE8 — THE HILL — THB RIVBRS— MODBRN HISTORY OF 
LAOniCEA. 

The city Laodicea was named from Laodice, the 
wife of its founder Antiochus, the son of Stratonice '. 
It was long an inconsiderable place, but increased 
toward the age of Augustus Caesar, after having 
suffered in a siege from Mithridates. The li»tility 
of the soil, and the good fortune of some of its citi- 
zens, raised it to greatness. Hiero^ who adorned it 
with many offerings, left the peo{^ his heir to more 
than two thousand talents. After that bendactor 
followed JZeno, the rhetorician ; and hn son Polemo, 
as renowned a sophist as ever lived. This person 
flourished at Smyrna ; but was buried here, by the 
$]rrian gate, near wli^ich were the s^ukhres or 
coffins of his ancestors ^ Laodicea, though inland, 
grew more potent than the cities on the coast, and 
became one of the largest towns in Phrygia. The 
other was Apamea Cibotos. 

• Strabo, p. 578. ' Phijpetf^im, p. 543. 



TmAy£X.S IN ASIA MINOR. 881 

We had crossed the hill, on which Laodicei stood,- 
coming from Uenisli. On our approach to it, we 
had oa either hand traces of buildings ; and on our 
right, of a low duct, which has conveyed water. 
The first ruin was of an amphitheatre ^ in a hoUow, 
the form oblong, the area about one thousand feet in 
extent, with many seats remaining. At the west 
end is a wide vaulted passage, designed for the 
horses and chariots ; about one hundred and forty 
feet long. The entrance from without is choked 
up, except a small aperture, at which a glimmering 
light enters; and the soil has risen above the im* 
posts of the interior arch. This has an inscription 
on the mouldings, in large characters, in Greek, 
which may be thus translated: '^To the emperor 
^^ Titus Caesar Augustus Vespasian, seven times con- 
" sul, son of the emperor the god Vespasian ; and to 
^^ the people. Nicostratus the younger, son of Ly- 
^^ cms, son of Nicostratus, dedicated . . . » . 
^^ at his own expense ; Nicostratus, .... his 
^^ heir, having completed what remained of the work, 
^* and Marcus Ulpius Trajanus the proconsul having 
" consecrated it ^." The seventh consulate of Ves- 
pasian faUs on the seventy-ninth year of the Chris- 
tian era, and the consulship of Trajan on the eighty** 
second. Twelve years were consumed in perfecting 
the structure. 

By another ruin is a pedestal, with an inscription^ 
which will illustrate that on the arch. It relates 
to the same family, and to the two benefactors. 
** The senate and. people have honoured Tatia, 

" Stadiuuiy the Greeks had no amphitheatre. R. 
^ Ittscript Ant. p. 30. 



C4 



282 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

*^ daughter of Nicostratus, son of Pericles, a new 
** heroine, both on account of the magistracies, and 
** ministries, and public works of her father, and on 
account of her great uncle Nicostratus, who lately, 
besides his other benefactions, was priest of the 
city, and changed the stadium into an amphi- 
** theatre y" The citj increasing, the stadium, it 
should seem, was not sufficiently capacious ; but Ni- 
costratus enlarged or lengthened it, and converted 
it into an amphitheatre, like that at Nysa'* A 
structure of so vast a circumference, when filled with 
the Laodiceans sitting in rows, must itself have been 
a very glorious and striking spectacle. 

On the north side of the amphitheatre, toward the 
east end, is the ruin of a most ample edifice. It 
consists of many piers and arches of stone, with pe- 
destals and marble fragments. At the west end lies 
a large stone, with an inscription ; the city or people 
*^ has erected Ased, a man of sanctity and piety, and 
^ recorder for life, on account of his services to his 
^* country." This fabric was perhaps the repository of 
the laws, and contained the senate-house, the money- 
exchange, and public offices. It has been remarked, 
that the waters of Laodicea, though drinkable, had 
a petrifying quality; and at the east end of this 
ruin is a mass of incrustation formed by the cur- 
rent, which was conveyed to it in earthen pipes by 
the duct before mentioned. 

From this ruin you see the odeum, which fronted 
southwards The seats remain in the side of the hill. 

y Inscript. Ant. p. 31. 

■ amphitheatre, like that at Nysa.] That at Nysa is built in the 
tnie form of a stadium — to convert it into an amphitheatre, it 
must have been of an oval form, but it retains that of a stadiunf. R. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR, S8S^ 

The materials of the front Ue in a confused heap. 
The whole was of marble. Sculpture had been la-* 
vished on it, and the style savoured less of Chrecian 
taste than Roman magnificence. 

Sejond the odeum are some marble arches stand- 
ing» with pieces of massive wall; the ruin, as we 
conjectured, of a gymnasium. This fabric, with one 
at a small distance, appeared to have been re-edified, 
probably after an earthquake, to which calamity 
Laodicea was remarkably subject. Westward from 
it are three marble arches crossing a dry valley, as a 
bridge. Many traces of the city-wall may be seen, 
with broken columns and pieces of marble used in. 
its later repairs. Within, the whole surface is strew- 
ed with pedestals and fragments. The luxury of 
the. citizens may be inferred from their other sump- 
tuous buildings, and fron) two capacious theatres in 
the side of the hiU, fronting northward and west- 
ward ; each with its seats still rising in numerous 
rows one above another. The travellers in 1705 
found a maimed statue at the entrance of the former, 
and on one of the seats the word ZHNI2N02, of 
Zeno. 

The hill of Laodicea consists of dry, impalpable 
soil, porous, with many cavities, resembling the bore 
of a pipe ; as may be seen on the sides, which are 
bare. It resounded beneath our horses' feet. The 
stones are mostly masses of pebbles, or of gravel con- 
solidated, and as light as pumice-stone. We had 
occasion to dig, and found-the earth as hard as any 
cement. Beneath, on the north, are stone cofiins, 
broken, subverted, or sunk in the ground. 

The two streams, which united by our tent, were 
the Lycus and the Caprus. The Lycus flows from 



884 TBAYSI^S IN ASIA MIKOB. 

a mountain called Cadmns^ above Laodicea, or to 
the east. It is seen in the phdn, north ci the hill» 
and was now shaUow, and idKNit two yaids over* 
After its junction with the Caprus, on the nordi- 
west, it becomes a siMable river. The Caprus* de* 
scends on the west, through a narrow valley, in 
which are four tall piers of a bridge onoe crossing it» 
and leading to a gate ci the city. These rivers are 
represented on medals. The Asopus» which ran on 
the opposite side, was dry. Laodioea, with Colosse^ 
its neighbour, was enriched by sheep, which pro- 
duced fleeces exceeding Milesian in softness, and the 
jetty raven in colour. The river Xanthus, or Sea* 
mander, was supposed the author of the yellow hue 
observable in the Troad. This r^on was said to be 
indebted to the Lycus. The breed perhaps has been 
n^lected. Some shephards came with their flocte 
to the ruins, and in the evening to the water by our 
tent. I remarked only one or two, which were veiy 
black and glossy. 

Laodioea was often damaged by earthquakes, and 
restored by its own opulence, or by the mnnificenoe 
of the Roman emperors. These resources foiled, 
and the dty, it is probaUe, became eariy a scene of 
ruin. About the year 1097 it was possessed by the 
Turks, and submitted to Ducas, general of the em- 
peror Alexis. In 1120 the Turks sacked some of 
the cities of Phrygia by the Maeander, but were de-^ 
feated by the emperor John Comnenus, who took 
Laodicea, and built anew or repairecl the waHs. 
About 1161 it was again unfortified. Many of the 

" Called Giumiskioi. The rivulet washing the eastern side of 
the bill, called Hosolous. The Lycus, whidi flows not &r off in 
' the pbin beneadi, called Diokbounar. Pieamu 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 885 

• 

inhabitBiits were then killed, with their bishc^ or 
carried with their cattle into captivity by the Turks. 
In 1190, the German emperor, Frederick Barbarossa, 
gciug by Laodicea with his army toward Syria on a 
croisade, was received so kindly, that he prayed on 
his knees for the prosperity of the people. About 
1196, this region, with Caria, was dreadfully ra^ 
vaged by the Turks. The sultan, on the invasion 
of the Tartars in 1255, gave Laodicea to the Ro- 
mans ; but they were unable to defend it, and it soon 
returned to the Turks. We saw no traces either of 
houses, churches, or mosques. All was silence and 
solitude. Several strings of camels passed eastward 
over the hill ; but a fox, which we first discovered 
by his ears peeping over a brow, was the only in- 
habitant of Laodicea. 



CHAP. LXVIIL 

WB SBT ODT FOR PAMBOUK, OR HIERAPOLIS— ST0PPB1>-— 
BEHAVIOUR OF AN AGA — ^THE CLIFF, &C. — aUALITY OF 
. THE SOIL ABOUT THE MMXVDBK HOT WATERS OF HIERA- 
POLIS ANOTHER CLIFF POETICAL ACCOUNT OF THE 

CLIFF. 

A PORTION of Messogis ^, opposite to Laodicea, ap- 
pears as a white lofty cliff. We supposed it to be 
chalk. Pambouk, or the ruined city Hierapolis^ 
which we could see, is seated upon it, beneath the 
summits of the mountain. The distance was one 
hour and a half, north-north-eastward. The aga, 

^ Query, if extended so far east. R. 

^ Laodicea was six miles from Hierapcdis. An$<mm. IHner. 



286 TRAVELS IN' ASIA MINOS. 

with whom we had lately been embroiled, told the 
janizary, that he commanded at Pambouk, the aga 
of the district being absent, and that we had nothing 
to fear there, as we were under, his protection. We 
relied on his assurances, and left Laodicea on the 
30th of April in the afternoon ; crossing the plain 
toward Pambouk, 

We passed the Lycus on the west of Laodicea, 
near an ordinary bridge, and in about three quarters 
of an hour the Maeander ; which here had two beams 
laid across it, with planks ; the water deep in its bed, 
muddy, as usual, and rapid. Some men, who were 
digging a trench in the plain, left off, and waited our 
approach. They were headed by a chiaush,' or the 
messenger of an aga, who commanded in a small 
village to the west of Pambouk. He stopped us at 
a narrow pass, seizing the bridles of the horses which 
were foremost. Our janizary galloped up, and in- 
terposing, was informed the aga insisted on bac- 
shish. 

. We rode on to Pambouk, and, while our tent was 
latching, the janizary went to the aga with our 
firhman, and a present of coffee and sugar. He was 
dvilly received, the aga commiserating our late ill 
usage, of which he had heard, and complaining, that 
the same person had extorted from him an extrava- 
gant ransom for a stray beast ; saying, he was a man 
of a bad character, of an imperious temper, and^ 
from his superior power, the tyrant of that country. 
He demanded five okes of coffee ; and some other 
claims were .made for his officers, amounting in the 
whole to ten okes, for which money was accepted. 
He declared we had no danger to apprehend by day 
at Pambouk, but recommended our leaving the ruins 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 287 

early in the evening. We enjoyed! by anticipation 
the security he foretold. 

Our tent stood on a green dry spot beneath the 
cliff. The view before us was so marvellous, that 
the description of it, to bear even a faint resem- 
blance, ought to appear romantic. The vast slope, 
which at a distance we had taken for chalk, was now 
beheld with wonder, it seeming an immense frozen 
cascade, the surface wavy, as of water at once 'fixed, 
or in its headlong course suddenly petrified. Round 
about us were many high, bare, stony ridges; and 
close by our tent one with a wide basis, and a 
slender rill of water, clear, soft, and warm, running 
in a small channel on the top. A woman was wash-* 
ing linen in it, with a child at her back ; and beyond 
were cabins of the Turcomans, standing distinct, 
much neater than any we .had seen ; each with pouU 
try feeding, and a fence of reeds in front. 

It is an old observation, that the country about 
the Maeander, the soil being light and friable, and 
fiill of salts generating inflammable matter, was un-> 
dermined by fire and water. Hence it abounded in 
hot springs, which, after passing underground from 
the reservoirs, appeared on the mountain, or were 
found bubbling up in the plain, or in the mud of the 
river : and hence it was subject to frequent earth- 
quakes ; the- nitrous vapour, compressed in the cavi*^ 
ties and sublimed by heat or fermentation, bursting 
its prison with loud explosions, agitating the atmo^ 
sphere, and shaking the earth and waters with a vio-» 
lence as extensive as destructive ; and hence, more- 
over, the pestilential grottos, which had subterrane- 
ous communications with each other, derived their 
noisome effluvia; and, serving as smaller vents to 



S88 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

these furnaces or hollows, were r^arded as aper- 
tures of hell, as passages for deadly fumes rising up 
from the realms of Phito. One or more of the 
mountains perhaps has burned. It may be suspect- 
ed, that the surface of the country lias, in some 
places, been formed from its own bowels; and in 
particular, it seems probaUe, that the hill of Lao- 
dicea was originally an irruption. 

The hot waters of Hierapolis have produced that 
most extraordinary phenomenon, the diff, which is 
one entire incrustation. They were anciently re- 
nowned for this species of transformation^. It is 
related they changed so easily, that being conducted 
about the vineyards and gardens, the channels be- 
came long fences, each a single stone. They pro- 
duced the ridges by our tent. The road up to the 
ruins, which appears as a wide and high causey, is a 
petrification ; and overlooks many green spots, once 
vineyards and gardens, separated by partitions of 
the same material. The surface of the flat, abovid 
the diff, is rough with stone and with channels, 
branching out in various directions; a large pool 
overflowing and feeding the numerous rills, some of 
which spread oyer the slope, as they descend, and 
give to the white stony bed a humid look, resembling 
salt or driven snow, when melting. This crust, 
which has no taste or smell, being an alkaline, will 
ferment with adds ; and Picenini relates, that trial 
of it had been made with spirit of vitriol. The wa- 
ters, though hot, were used in agriculture. 

Tamerlane, when he invaded this country, en- 

*» See Strabo, p. 629. 437. Pausanias, p. 241. VitruTius, lib. 
viii. cap. 3. Ulpian Pandect, lib. xliii. 



TEA VEILS IN ASIA MINOH. 989 

camped for the summer at Tanguzlik, where many 
of his men were destroyed by drinking of a spring, 
whicb stagnated apd petrified. I shoi|14 hAve sup- 
posed that place to have been Hierapolis ; but other 
hot waters, with a similar cliff, will be mentioned in 
a fiollpwi^g chapter^. The Turkish na^^e Fambpy^ 
si^i$/es Ci^tfon, ^nd, it has been said, refers X/^ the 
whiteBjess of the mcrustetion. 

T])e sh^pberd-povet of Smyrna, after mei^nipg a 
c^v(^ in Pbrygia s^cr^ to the nymphs, rdates, that 
thfsi^ I^upa had 4Hi(Ge descended from the sky to Eu^ 
dymipn, whUe he was sleeping by his herds; that 
i^^ks ojf ^heir bed were then extant under the oaks ; 
and %\^ in th^ thickets around it the milk of cows 
ha4 beep sjhUj whi(^ n^Q still bdield with admira^ 
tiop ; for sjach was the appearance* If you saw it very 
far 9$* : but that from th^c^ tfow^ed clear or warm 
w^ter, whiqh iq a little Tji^hil^ coQcceted round about 
X^ ic^nnejis, and foriQed ^, 3toi?be pavement ^ The 
i^riter describes |^he cliff of Hier^polis^ if I mistake^ 
uip^, ^& in his Aime^ 9q4 has added a local story, cur- 
rent ^hen he livchd. It was the geiN«is of the p^ple 
to unite fictipn with truth ; and, as in this and other 
instime^s^ to dignity the t^ajles of their mythology, 
with fabulous evidence, takeji from the natural won- 
ders in which tl^eir counti*y abowided- 

« Q. Smyrnveus, /. v. 128. 



CHANDLER, ASIA M. U 



290 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. LXIX. 

RKMAINS OF HISRAPOLIS — THB THBATRKr-ANCIBNT MANNER 

OF smriNG ^U8B OF THB HOT WATBRS-^THB POOL— ^THB 

PLUTONIUM— OUR DISAPPOINTMENT. ' 

We ascended in the morning to the niins» which 
are on a flat, passing by sepulchres with inscriptions, 
and entering the city from the east. We had soon 
the theatre on our right hand, and the pool between 
us and the cliff. Opposite to it, near the margin of 
the diff, is the remain of an amazing structure, once 
perhaps baths, or, as we conjectured, a gymnasium ; 
the huge vaults of the roof striking horror as we 
rode underneath. Beyond it is the mean ruin of a 
modem fortress; and farther on are massive walls 
of edifices, several of them leaning from their per- 
pendicular, the stones distorted, and seeming every 
moment ready to fall, the effects and evidences of 
violent and repeated earthquakes. In a recess of 
the mountain, on the right hand, is the area of a 
stadium. Then again sepulchres succeed, some 
nearly buried in the mountain-side, and one, a 
square building, with an inscription in large letters. 
All these remains are plain, and of the stone created 
by the waters. The site has been computed about 
two hundred paces wide, and a mile in length. 

After taking a general survey, we returned to the 
theatre, intending to copy inscriptions and examine 
more particularly as we changed our station. We 
found this a very large and sumptuous structure, 
and the least ruined of any we had seen. Part of 
the front is standing. In the heap, which lies in 
confusion, are many sculptures well executed in 
basso-relievo; with pieces of architrave inscribed, 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. JBftl 

but disjointed ; or so encumbered with massive mar- 
bles, that we could collect from them no information. 
The character is large and bold, with ligatures. The 
marble seats are still unremoved. The numerous 
ranges are divided by a low semicii^cular wall, near 
midway, with inscriptions on the face of it, but 
mostly illegible. I copied a short but imperfect one, 
in which Apollo Archegetes or the Leader is re- 
quested to be propitious. In another compartment, 
mention is made of the city by its name Hierapolis ; 
and on a third is an encomium in verse ^, which may 
be thus translated : ** Hail, golden city Hierapolis ; 
" the spot to be preferred before any in wide Asis ; 
** revered for the rills of the nymphs ; adorned with 
" splendour." — The nymphs presided over springs 
and fountains. 

The reader may recollect some other theatres and 
a stadium, in which many of the seats remained in 
their places, and entire. After attentively viewing 
them, and considering their height, width, and man- 
ner of arrangement^, I am inclined to believe that 
the ancient Asiatics sate at their plays and public 
spectacles, like the modern, with their legs crossed, 
or gathered under them ; and, it is probable^ upon 
carpets. 

The waters of Hierapolis were surprisingly at- 
tempered for tinging wool with a colour from roots 
rivalling the more costly purples, and were a prin- 
cipal source of the riches of the place. The com- 

' Inscript. Ant. p. 3 1 . 

s The arrangement of them forms no such idea, there being a 
cavity in the back part of the surface of every seat for receiving the 

feet. R. 

u 2 



293 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

pany of dyers is mentioned in tiie inscnpfcion \ on 
tbe square building among the sepulchres. That 
heroum, or monument, was to be crowned by them 
with garlands or festoons of flowers. The springs 
flowed so copiously, that the city was fiiH of spon* 
taneous baths, and Apollo, the tutelar deity c€ the 
Hierapolitans, witli .Ssculapius and Hygiea, on their 
medals, bear witness to the medicinal virtues whidi 
they possess. The people, in some of their inscrip- 
tioBs, are styled the most sfJemdid^ and the senate 

The pool before the theatre has been a bath, and 
marble fragmente are vinble at the bottom of tbe 
water, which is perfectly transparent, and of a briny 
taste. The women of the aga, after bathing in it, 
came to the theatre, where we were employed, to see 
us, with their faces muflled. lliey were succeeded 
by the aga, with several attendants. He wm a 
young man of good deportment and uacommon affii- 
biMty. He discoursed with our janizary, sitting 
cro8s4egged on the ruins, "smoking and drinking 
cotSee ; and expressed his r^^ret, that . no water fit 
to drink could be discovered there; wishing, if we 
possessed the knowledge of any from our books, we 
would communicate it to him ; saying, it woudd be 
a benefit, for which all ftiture travellers shoidd ex- 
perience hb gratitude. 

Hievapolis was noted, besides 'its hot watars, for a 
nutonium '\ This was an opening in a sauH bvow 
of the adjacent mountain, capable of admitting a 

^ Inscript. Ant. p. 3 1 . 

* Strabo, p. 629. See Casatibon on the passage. Comment, 
p. 232. 



TBATSXS IN ASIA MINQE. SQS 

mxa, and rery deep, with a square fence before it» 
enclosing about half an acre ; wfaidi space ivbs fitted, 
with bla(^ thick mist, so that the bottom could be 
scarcely discerned. The air, to those who approachr 
ed it, was innocent on the outside of the fence, being 
dear of the mist in serene weather ; it remaining 
then within the boundary ; but there death abode* 
Bulls, a9 at Nysa, dropped down, and were dragged 
forth without life ; and some sparrows, which Strabo 
let fly, instantly fell senseless. But eunuchs, the 
jHiests of Magna Mater, or Cybele^ could go in quite 
to tlie apa*ture, lean forward, or enter it unharmed ; 
but they held their breath, as their visages testified, 
and sometimes until in danger of suffocation. Stra- 
bo, the relater, was in doubt, whether all eunuchs 
could do this, or only they of the temple ; and whe- 
ther they were preserved by divine Providence, as in 
cases of enthusiasm, or were possessed of some pow- 
erful antidotes. But it is likely this mist was the 
condensed steam of the hot waters \ made noxious 
by the qualities of the soil ; and that the whole se- 
cret of the priests consisted in carrying their faces 
high in the air, as another spectator has observed 
they always did ; and in avoiding respiration when 
th^ stooped. I had hoped the description of this 
"spot would have enabled me to find it, but I search- 
ed about for it unsuocessfiilly. 

We descended to our tent at the approach of 
evenipg, by a steep track down Ae eliff, beginning 
beyond the pool, in which we also bathed with plea- 
sure, on the side next the gympasiucn. Our way 
was often rough and slippery, vesemUing ice, and 

^ Pausapias, p. 152. 
u 3 



894 TBATELS IX ASIA MINOB. 

our hones with diflfeulty presenred their footing. 
When arrived at our tent I renewed my inquiries 
for the Plutonium, and an old Turk, with a beard 
as white as snow, told me he knew the place, that it 
was often fatal to their goats ; and, accounting for the 
effect, said, it was believed to be the habitation of a 
demon or evil spirit. We ascended again early in 
the morning to the theatre, where he had promised 
to join us ; and a live fowl was intended to be the 
martyr of experiment. But we met this day with 
some unexpected interruption, which made us leave 
Hierapolis in haste, as will be related in a subsequent 
chapter* 



CHAP. LXX. 

OF COLOSSJB AND THS LYCUS ^RISB OF THB MJEANDBR AND 

THB MAESYAS CRLSSM — ^APAMBA CIBOTOS — COURSB OF 

THB MjEANDBR — ^APAMBA SUBJBCT TO BARTHQUAKBS 

RODTB OF XBRXBS INTO LYDIA. 

It had been my intention to extend our journey 
eastward to the sources of the Marauder. We were 
prevented from advancing fisuther than Laodicea 
and Hierapolis. I shall therefore endeavour to sup- 
ply the deficiency, by giving as clear an account as 
I can of the ancient geography of that vegiaQ, 
which has been much perplexed. 

Among the smaller places in Phrygia, lying round 
Laodicea and Apamea, was Colossae, once a large 
and populous dty; where the Lycus, entering a 
chasm in the ground, disappeared for at most five 
stadia, or above half a mile; after which it re- 
emerged, and pursued its way by Laodicea to the 



TRAVKLS IN ASIA MINOR. 295 

Maeander \ The Lycus rose on mount Cadmus^ as 
did also another stream of the same name as the 
mountain. 

Beyond Colossae was a summit, and once a city, 
named Celaenae™; above which was a lakeji where 
the reed grew, which was used as the tongue or 
mouthpiece of the aulos or flute, and where they 
fabled of Olympus, and of Marsyas^ and his contest 
with Apollo. This lake was the reservoir or head 
of the Maunder and of the Marsyas°, both which 
rose below it, separate, and were revered by all the 
Phrygians in those parts, who sacrificed to them^ 
singly or jointly ; calling on the river god, to whom 
they offered, and throwing the thighs of the victims 
into the source ; when the present was carried under- 
ground by the eddy, and given, as they said, to the 
stream for which it was designed ; or if intended for 
both, divided ; neither current invading the property 
of its neighbour. 

Celaenae, a large and flourishing dty at the sources 
of the two rivers below the lake, was the capital of 
Phrygia. The great king or emperor of Persia 
had a strong palace beneath the citadel, by the springs 
of the Marsyas, which rose in the market-place, not 
less in size than the Maeander, and flowed through 
the city. Cyrus the younger had also a palace 
there, but by the springs of the Maeander, which 
river passed likewise through the city. He had^ 

* Herodotus^ lib. vii. cap. 30. Strabo, p. 576. 

1° Strabo, p. 578. See Comment, p. 221. 

° The Marsyas was the river next Caria^ as appears from the 
action mentioned in chap. Iviii. The Carians were assembled by 
the Marsyas, and one of the leaders advised passing the Maeander^ 
and 6ghting with that river in the rear, 

u 4 



896 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

moreover, an extetsiine pai'adiiie or park, full of wild 
beasts, which he hunted oti h6rseback for exerdse at 
amusement ; and watered by the Maeander, which 
ran through the middle. Xerxes was said to have 
built these palaces lind the citadel after his return 
from his expedition into Greece. 

Antiochus Soter removed the inhabitants of Ce- 
tense into a city. Which he named from his mother, 
Apamea ; and which became afterwards a mart in- 
ferior only to Ephesus. It was seated on a root of 
mount Signia) and surrounded by the Marsyas, Obri- 
mas, and Orgas. The stream of the Marsyas was 
hid, not far from its rij^e^ in a vale called AulOcrene ; 
the scene, it was fabled, of the contest with Apollo, 
ten miles fh)m ApameA on the way into Phrygia. 
It flowed through the middle of this city, which was 
n€»r its mouth ; and pouring down into the suburb 
with a vehement precipitate current, the slsream 
twenty-five feet wide, and without windings, jmned 
the Maetttader; which having bdbre received the 
Orga^, passed through the plain, mild and gentle. 
'The springs of the Obrimas, which ran likewise into 
the Mseandef, wete on the borders (tf Pisidia. The 
Marsyas hto been styled the most transparent river 
of Phrygia ; and the catafact^ from its fhUlng down 
the rock with a mighty noise ^. 

The Maeander, augmented by the three riven^ 
aft^ wandering thiroygh the Apamtoe {dttin, pro- 
ceeded, larger and deeper, with many windings, from 
the pastures of Phrygia into the vine-clad province 

« Stfabo, p. 577. See Comment. Pliny, lib. v. cap. 29. Clau- 
dian ih Eiltrop. lib. ii. v. 264. Q. Sroyrnfleus, a . v. 283. Ovid, 
Metam. lib. viii. Pausanias, p. 28. 



TfttAVELS 11^ ASIA MINOR. 897 

of the Gftrians ; which it divide from I#ydia near 
the plain properly called the Mteandrian, where tlie 
bed was crooked in an uncommon degree. This, or 
the Upper Caiia^ ending*, it flowed quietly into that 
of the lonians, increased by the accession of nume- 
rous streams ; aitd, after visiting many towns, and 
fertilizing with its slime the fair plains, smoothly 
entered the sea; which perhaps once washed the 
foot both of Celaenae and of Signia p. The river was 
navigable a considerable way above the mouth, and 
one Melesander is recorded as having gone on it 
with his ships into the Upper Caria. Its eels were 
much prized by the ancient epicures ; and its banks 
were remarkably clothed with tamarisks ^. 

The people of Apamea, though inland, were wor- 
shippers of Neptune. The reason, it has been con- 
jectured, was, that they had suffered often from 
earthquakes, of which he was supposed the author. 
Mithridates gave an hundred talents toward the re^ 
storation of the city ; which, it is said, had likewise 
been overthrown in the time of Alexander. Their 
tribute-money was remitted to them for five years 
on the same account, under the emperor Tiberius. 
The subterraneous passage of the Lycusi and the 
Oth^ streams shewed that the ground hwl many 
cavities ; and these, it has been surmised, rendered 
the region very liable to be shaken. Between Lao- 
dicea and Apamea was a muddy lake of salt water, 
which had a private vent: and the name Celaenae 
had been interpreted to denote the colour of the 

^ A wiW imagination, this part of the country being too high 
ior the «ea to have ever reached it. R. 
*i See note "^ p. 296. 



898 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 

stODes, and the blackness occasioned by fiery erup- 
tions 4. 

Xerxes, on his expedition into Greece, came by 
Celaenae and the salt lake, to Colossae and Cydrarsy 
where was the boundary of the Lydians and Phry- 
gians. He then entered Lydia, and the road divid- 
ing, the left branch leading into Caria, the right 
toward Sardes, took the latter ; on which it was ne- 
cessary to pass the Maeander. Laodicea did not 
then exist, but, it is probable, he marched by the 
site, as his route to Sardes appears to have been 
nearly the same with that which we shall pursue, 
after leaving Hierapolis, and recovering the main 
road from Laodicea westward. ^ 



CHAP. LXXI. 

PICBNINl's JOURNBY TO CHONOS — ^TO PAMBOUK— POCOCKE's 

JOURNBT TO CHONOS — ^REMARKS POCOCKE's JOURNEY 

CONTINUED — niNGLAR, APAMEA ISHECLEH, CELANjE. 

The reader may be introduced to a farther know- 
ledge of the r^on, which is the subject of the prer 
ceding chapter, by an extract from the diary of 
Picenini, and from the traveb of an author by 
whom its ancient geography is greatly mistaken. 

Picenini, with his companions, set out fii>m Lao- 
dicea, and proceeded two hours, when they passed 

4 Strabo, p. 579. The reader, if curious coDcerning the Apa- 
mean medals treated of by the author of au Jnalysii of Ancient 
Mythology^ may receive satisfactioD from consulting Museum C. 
Alhanit vol. i. pi. 49. p. 99. and Muieam Fioren^um^ vol. iv. pi. 
76, and vol. vi. p. 149. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 899 

through a pleasant wood of tall trees; and, after 
three hours more, came to a village called Chonos, 
which has been supposed Colossae. It stands under 
a very high and almost inaccessible hill, the cottages 
on the steep or acclivity, from which they had a 
view over the plain from the east to the south-west. 
Here they found the Greeks ignorant of their own 
language. Their church, which was in the castle on 
the hiU, resembled a wine-vault. Their papas or 
priest was of Cyprus, and had the care of about 
forty families, of the same progeny as the Turks. 

Leaving this place at ten in the morning, and 
passing a river, they saw soon after, for the space of 
a mile, pieces of columns, ruined inscriptions, and 
other remains; and also several irregular winding 
channels, with a current, as they conjectured, of 
mineral water. Then directing their course more 
to the west, in three hours they came to a river and 
a plane-tree; and, going on, in less than an hour 
and a half had Pambouk in view on their right 
hand. 

Pococke set out from Denisli, and, going to the 
north-east, passed by a large stream called Sultan 
Emir, which he supposes the Cadmus, running near 
that comer of the mountains, from which the hills 
of Laodicea begin, and felling into the Lycus about 
a league to the east of that place. He crossed this 
river at a bridge by an old khan, called Accan, weU 
built, of white marble from some aiident ruin. 
Mount Cadmus turns here to the east, and con- 
tinues about six miles. At the northern foot of it 
is a rock, where Soley Bey commonly resided, and 
had eleven pieces of cannon for his defence ; and a 
village underneath, which is that supposed to be 



900 TRAVSLS IN ASIA MINOR. 

Coiwsa^. Att orer the plain wwe snuU dmonds 
fw watery then dry, incnisted like those of Pam« 
book. 

Chonos seems to have had the same affinitj with 
Colossae as Benidi with Laodkea. A papas or priest 
at Phibdelphia informed me there were about two 
hundred Greek families. The river, which Picenini 
passed on leaving Chonos, was probably the Ljcus ; 
and the ruins, which succeeded, the remains of Co^ 
lossae. The other river must have been the Me- 
ander. PoGOcke does not distinguish between Cho^ 
nos and Colossae. He has mistaken the Lycus for 
Cadmus ; and the Maeander, as several other travd- 
lers have done, for the Lycus. 

Pococke continued his journey eastward from 
Chonos ; when, a Uttle farther on, the hills ran for 
dbout two leagues to the north, and then turning 
toward the east again, were the southern boundary 
of a fine vale about one league wide and four long. 
On the south side of these hills are waters, like those 
of Hierapolis, incrusting the slope with a white pe- 
trification ; and on the opposite side are other hot 
waters. He came to the foot of the high hills on 
tte north of this vale, where was an encampment o£ 
Turcomans, and crossed over the woody mountain 
to the north-east to a village, where he passed the 
night. He went oa in this small plain, which leads 
on the north-west into the great plains of the Me- 
ander, where the river runs along on the west side 
for about twelve miles, and then goes in between the 
hills^ He describes the Maeander as running to the 
west, at the distance of ei^t miles fnxn the north 
end of the jdain, and as turning south firom near the 
west side. 



TRATELS IN ASIA MIDfOB. 901 

We are now, with Pococke, not far from the junc- 
tion of the Marsyas with the Mseander ; for he men- 
tions a plain uniting with this and extending to the 
east, about two leagues wkie and fonr kmg, with a 
high hill and a village called Dinglar at the east end, 
where he was told a river rbes, and falls down a hiU 
from a lake «t the top ; and where, as he was in- 
formed, are ruins. IHnglar, if I mistake not, was 
Apamea ; which place, it is to be noted, was on the 
way finim Laodicea to the east. There was tke 
cataract <x£ the river Marsyas, which rose soiae 
miles distant on the road leading into Pfarygia. 

Pocod^e went on over the Maeander, where it 
Classes t^e large plain, to a village on the north side; 
and the next day, after travelling eight lules, came 
to ia town, cdled Ishecleh, under the hills, which are 
at the 2iorth end of the jMn ; beneath xme, which is 
very hi^ and steep, and has dn it some remans c£ 
an ancient fortress. In the town wen many {lieees 
tof ^Kars, and wrought stones, and imperfect inscrip<> 
tkms; but it is most a«emarkalile for its driightful 
silfuation at due sources of a river now called Ocfai* 
euse, which rises at the foot of the mountain in ei{^ 
or nine streams. Some cf these are large and very 
dear ; and aU, he relates, soon unite, and run through 
tihe plain into the Mseander. He supposes die two 
rims art Ished^ and Dmglar to be fourteen mfles 
apaxt. The plain between the two places, of which 
the former was once, I t^Hnik, evidently Celsmae, is 
bounded to the north and south by high faiUs. This, 
it seems, was Anlocrene. In it is a river cadled 
Boaaiiiasha, which Mis into the Ms6ander,and is by 
Pocodce supposed to be tive Orgas. 



90S TBATSL8 IN ASIA MINOB. 



CHAP. LXXII. 

WB ARE BMBROILSD AT HIBRAFOUS RXTIRS TO OUR TENT 

^FLT — VORD THE MjKANDBR— OUR CONAC, OR RBSTTNG* 

PLACE— BOOTHS OF THE TURCOMANS — ^RIHNS OF TRIFOUS 
ITS HISTORY ^ARRIVE AT BUIXABA. 

TVe are now to relate the occasion of our sudden 
departure from Hien^Us. While we were bosjr at 
the theatre, the aga of a village eastward came to 
bathe with a considerable retinue, and two of his 
men summoned our janizary to appear before him. 
He was sitting beneath a wall, in the shade of tl^ 
large ruin ; and among the Turks with him were 
a couple, whom we had treated on the preceding day 
with coffee. He allied, that we had knowledge of 
hidden treasure, and had already filled with it the 
provision chests, which he had seen by our tent; 
and demanded one of them for his share. He treated 
the janizary as mocking him, when he endeavoured 
to explain the nature of our errand, and the manner 
in which we had been employed. - The janizary re^ 
turned to us, exclaiming, as at Ezki-hissar, that we 
were among rebels and robbers ; that neither equity, 
our firhman, or the grand signior would avail us; 
that, unless we would repent too late, it behoved us 
to hasten away. He was prevailed on, however, to 
remonstrate again ; but the aga insisted on his claim 
with threatenings, if we did not speedily comply. 

It seemed an exorbitant sum would be requisite 
to glut this extortioner and his dependents ; and, if 
he were gratified, we might still expect other agas 
to follow his example, and be harassed until we were 
quite stripped of our money. The dispute growing 
very serious, we were apprehensive of immediate 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 808 

violence ; and it was deemed prudent to retire by the 
causey to our tent. At the same time, his two men, 
who had tarried by us, mounted their horses with 
visible chagrin, and rode off, as was surmised, to the 
village with orders. 

On our arrival at the tent we held a consultation^ 
when the janizary warmly urged the peril of our 
present situation ; that the frontier of the Cuthayan' 
pashalike, in which we were, was inhabited by a 
lawless and desperate people, who committed^'often 
the most daring outrages with impunity. He re- 
commended the regaining, as fast as possible, the 
pashalike of OuzeUhissar. It was indeed the gene- 
ral desire that we might remove from a region in 
which we had already experienced so much solici- 
tude, and where our safety for a moment was deem- 
ed precarious. Our men were alert in striking the 
tent, and loading our baggage ; and at nine in the 
morning we fled from Pambouk, under the conduct 
of our janizary. 

We forded the Maeander by a wooden bridge for 
foot passengers, with the water up to the bellies of 
our horses. We rode through a court before the 
house of the aga, with whom we had first treated, 
and saw there some marble fragments, probably re- 
moved from the adjacent ruins ^ The village is ex- 
ceedingly mean and small. 

Keeping up the plain to recover the road from 

' Cuthaya, ancieuUy Cotyseium in Phrygia. 

" after adjacent ruins.] Revett has added, ** Likewise some of 
** the men who had threatened us» sitting in an open gallery in 
** the aga*s house; which shews it was a scheme contrived by 
" him to extort money from us.** 



so* TRAYnLS IK ASIA MIKOB« 

Tiandioen westwaMU we had on our left a immm 
and de^ water-ooune. The stieaai^ at an orer-ahot 
mill, waa tmned fimin ita duomd* and peradtted at 
interrab to mn into the com fidda. The liUa alao 
from the mountain were conducted into lands i^ 
eentlj ploughed, on which cranea were staUdng to 
devour inaecta or reptiles diatoessed bj the flM>iitwe. 
We hurried op, apprehensive of being pmrsoed, un- 
til we were opposite the mawy summitp beneath 
which we had pitched our t^it, goiRg to D^oisli. 
We fimnd there a company of Turks, and al%hted 
to dine near them under some trees, which giopw bjr 
a fiiuntaip. These repasts were usnaBf followed by 
aleep on a carpet in the shade. 

The travellers, witih whom our men qopviersed, ior 
formed theas, that the Turcomans, encamped in tbt 
]dain on the ottu^ side of the M^eander, had very 
lately plundered some caravans, and oit off th^ 
heads o£ the people who <^poaed diem. We disMbsd 
this intelligence, and set out again after two hoim» 
fearing we might be benighted among them. Leav- 
ing the road to Mi^nesU on the left hand, we came 
in half nn hour to a cra^y wooden bri^g^ over .a 
rapid stream, faU&i^ I^w^ down, into the Mmoo^* 
This river had also a wooden bridge on piles, whpk^ 
we crossed ; ^b one of stone, in view, higher up, 
consisting of a single arch. The plajv was here veiy 
wide and smooth, and covered with the bladp: booths 
of the Turcomans. Our janizary appeared as one 
half frantic, if he saw any of the company strag- 
gling, or loitering on the way. We pushed briskly 
through, and then travelled westward in a green and 
pleasant recess of the mountain Messogis. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 30S 

On entering the recess, we had on our right hand, 
at a distance, the ruins of Tripolis. Smith ^ relates, 
that he saw there only huge stones, lying confiisedly 
in heaps, besides vestiges of a theatre and of a cas- 
tle. We could plainly discern the naked site of the 
former on the slope of Messogis, and beneath it 
masses of wall, remnants of the fortress. About half 
an hour to the west is a flourishing town or village. 
A stream^ of which we had a distinct view from the 
mountains the next morning, winds not far off in 
the plain, and has been mistaken by several travel- 
lers for the Maeander. Smith forded it near Tripolis, 
in his way to Pambouk, where he arrived about four 
hours after. 

Tripolis is the place where St. Bartholomew 
taught, and St. Philip is said to have suffered mar- 
tyrdom. It was afterwards the see of a bishop; 
John Ducas, the second emperor of Nice, had an in«- 
terview there with the Turkish sultan in 1244. It 
was enlarged and fortified for a bulwark to cover 
Philadelphia. In 1306 it was in the possession of 
the Turks, who had besieged and taken it by strata- 
gem ; and AUsuras made from it his incursions into 
the empire. It is not mentioned by Strabo ; but in 
the Antoriine Itinerary is placed twelve miles from 
HierapoUs, and thirty-three from Philadelphia ; and, 
in Peutinger's Table, from TraUes fifteen. 

We rode on by fine crops of barley, with a large 
water-course on our left hand ; and, after nine hours, 
arrived in the dusk of evening at BuUada, a Turkish 
town ; the houses numerous and scattered on slopes, 
with a bridge crossing the bed of a torrent, then 

* Survey of the Seven Churches, p. 245. 

CHANDLBR, ASIA M. X 



306 TRAVELS IK ASIA MIKOR. 

dry. We were lodged in a new khan, mall, but nn- 
usually neat ; and from the windows, in the morn- 
ing, had an extendve view over the plain. We 
could see part of the white cliff of HierapoUs. On 
inquiry, we found that we were now only a journey 
of about four days from Smyrna, going the direct 
road ; and were assured, that the plague raged there 
with uncommon fury. 



CHAP. LXXIII. 

OUR MODB OF LIVING — MOUNT TMOLUS — THE REGION 
NAMED CATAKEKAUMENE — THE RIVER HERMUS — WE 
ARRIVE AT ALA-SHAHIR, OR PHILADELPHIA. 

Our mode of living in this tour had been more 
rough than can well be described. We had endea- 
voured to avoid, as much as possible, communicat- 
ing with the people of the country ; and had com- 
monly pitched our tent by some well, brook, or 
fountain, near a village ; where we could purchase 
^gs, fowls, a lamb or kid, rice, fruits, wine, raki or 
white ][>randy, and the like necessaries ; with bFead» 
which was often gritty, and of the most ordinary 
kind. We had seldom pulled off our clothes at 
night ; sleeping sometimes with our boots and hats 
on, as by day ; a portmanteau or large stone serving 
instead of pillow or bolster. But one considerati<m 
had softened the sensations of fatigue, and sweet- 
ened all our hardships. It was the comfortable re- 
flection, that we enjoyed our liberty, and were, as 
we conceived, at a distance from the plague; but 
now we were about to lose that satisfaction^ and at 



TRAVELS IN A^IA MINOII. 807 

every st^^ to ap{H*Qach nearer to tbe seat of infeo 
tiao. 

We h^ ngfeed to visit Ala-shahir ^ or Philadt^ 
phia ; and, setting out in the morning, ascended the 
lapvntain, which is Messogis^ and turned to the 
qoprth-west, through a cultivated tract, the way good* 
to hills green with flowering shrubs, and in particu* 
lar with labdanum. The air partook of their ira* 
grancy, and dispensed to us the sweet odours of 
mount Tmolus. The manner of gathering the gum 
from the leaves, with the whip or instrument made 
use of, is described by Toumefort. After five hours 
we alighted, and dined beneath a tree by a well?. 
We then entered a deep narrow track, and came in 
two hours more to a village, and pitched our tent on 
a dry spot ; with an old castle on the mountain on 
our left hand, and before us an extensive plain, ia 
which the river Hermus runs. 

This r^on, which is above, or to the east af 
Philadelphia, was called Catakekaumene, or the 
Imrned. By some it was reckoned in Mysia, by 
others in Mseonia, or Lydia. It was five hundred 
stadia, or si^ty-two miles and a half, long, and fi!>ur 
hundred stadia, or fifty miles, broad ; and anciently 
twpe of trees, but covered with vines, wUch pvo* 
duoed the wine called by its name, and esteemed 
iiot infador to any in goodness. The suifuse ef the 
plain, which is now turf, was then spread with 
ashes ; and the range of mountains was stony and 
Mack, as from a conflagration, which some, who &* 

m 

^ AUahseheyr, ih^ city of God. 

^ a tree by a well.], a tree in a burying^ground by a well. R. 
, x2 



S08 TftAVELS IK ASIA MIKOR. 

bled that Typho was destroyed there, supposed to 
haye been occasioned by lightning; bat earthJioro 
fire was concerned, instead of the giant and Jupiter. 
This was evident from three pits, which they called 
Physae,- or the bellows^ distant from each other 
about forty stadia, or five miles, with rough hills 
above them, formed, it was believed, by cinders from 
their volcanoes. The wits of (dd, observing such 
places peculiarly fertile in vines, aflbmed, alluding 
to the story of Semele, it was no fiction that Bac- 
chus was begotten by fire y. 

The river Hermus, which divides this [dain, b^utt 
near Dorylasum, a city of Phrygia ; rising on the 
mountain Dind]rmus, which was sacred to Cybele, 
the mother of the gods. From this r^on it flowed 
into the Sardian, and received the Phrygius, which 
separated Phrygia from Caria ; and also many other 
streams from Mysia and Lydia, in its way to the 



In the morning we descended from the mountain, 
and winding toward the left, soon after met a cow 
laden with the dwelling, the goods, and chattels of 
a Turcoman family; a very grotesque and risible 
figure. A woman followed, trudging on foot, with 
a child at her back, her naked breasts hanging down 
before her. In half an hour we crossed a stream 
rising near, and running eastward ; and then passed 
by a spot where ' a number of the Turcomans were 
loading their camels, and busied in removing thieir 
booths, their wives, children, and cattle. The plain 
was cultivated. We entered the caravan road from 

y Strabo, p. 576. 626. 62<L 



TBATELS IK ASIA MIKOB. SOft 

Angora to Smyrna, when our course became wert^ 
with mount Tmolus on our left hand i and arrived 
in three hours and a half at Ala-shahir^ 



CHAR LXXIV, 

OF PfllLADBLPHIA*'— ITS MODERN HISTORY — THE PRESENT 
TOWN — ^A MINERAL SPRING, AND THE SUPPOSED WALL QJ? 
BONES-*-DISUS£ OF THE GREEK TONGUE — CIVILJTV OF 
THE PEOPLE — ^NEWS OF THE PLAGUE — ^WE ARRIVE AT 
SARDES. 

A.TTALUS Philadelphus, brother of Eumenes, waa 
the founder of Philadelphia, whidi stood on a root 
of mount Tmolus, by the river Cogamus. The fre«> 
quent earthquakes, which it experienced, were owing 
to its vicinity with the region called Catakekau- 
mene. Even the city-walls were not secure, but 
were shaken almost daily, and disparted^ The in-i 
habitants lived in perpetual apprehension, and were 
always employed in repairs. They were few in num- 
ber, the people residing chiefly in the country, and 
cultivating the soil, which was fertile *. 

John Ducas, the Greek general to whom Laodicea 
submitted, took Philadelphia with Sardes by assault 
in 1097* It was again reduced, about the year 1106, 
under the same emperor, without difl^ulty. Two 
years after, the Turks marched from the east, with 
a design to plunder it and the maritime cities. In 
1175 the emperor Manuel, falling into an ambuscade 
of the Turks not far from the sources of the Mae^ 
ander» retired to this plaqe. In the division of the 

' Strabo, p. 579. 628. 
x3 



810 TEATSLS IK. ASIA MINOK. 

oOmfaeatB of sidtan Akdin in ISM, the iofier parts 
of Pluygia, as fiir as Cilicia and Philadd{riiia, fell 
by lot to Karamlln* The town in ISO&was besieged 
by Alisuras, who took the forts near, and distressed 
it, but retired on the approach of the Roman army. 
It is related, that the Philadelphians despised the 
Turks^ having a tradition, that their city had never 
been taken. The Tripolines requested succour from 
the general, the grand duke Roger ; who, after defeat- 
ing the enemy, returned hither, by the forts of Kula 
and Tumus, and exacted money. In 1S91 Phila- 
delphia singly refused to admit Bajazet ; but want- 
ing provisions was forced to capitulate. Cineis, on 
his reconciliation with Amir, prince of lonia^ drew 
ever to his interest this place, with Sardes, Nym-* 
plieum, and the country als fer as the HeriMou 

It was andently matter of surprise, that I%ila^ 
delpbia was not abandoned^ mrd yet it has survived 
many cities less liable to earthquakes, and continues 
now a mean, but considerable town^* of large extent^ 
qireading up the slopes of three or four hfllB. Of 
the wail which encompassed it, many remnairts are 
standing, but with lai^ gaps. The materids of 
this fwtification are small stones, with strong ce- 
ment. It is thick and lofty, and has round tovre». 
On the top, at i^^pular distances, were a g^eat nuni-» 
ber of nests^ each as big as a bushel ; with the craties^ 
their owners, by them, single or in pairs. I%e bed 
itf the Cogamus, which is on the ntoth-east side^ ^as 
almost dry. The French traveller, Paul Lucas % 
has mistaken ti^ {dace for Laodidea. 

Gdtng a little ^p the Cogamus, between the moun- 

• Vol. i. p. 306. 



TRAVELS IN A&IA ailNOK. 311 

tahiSy in the liaiik on the right hand, is a spring of 
a purgative quality, much esteemed and resorted to 
in the hot months. It tasted like ink, is dear, and 
tinges the earth with the colour c£ ochre* Farther 
up, beyond the town, on the left htm^f is the i<raH, 
which, it has been said, was built with human bones, 
after a massacre, t^ one of the sultans. That Won- 
der^ is nothing more than the remnant of a duct, 
which has conveyed water of a petrifying quality, a^ 
iat Laodicea^. This incrusted some vegetable sub- 
dances, which have perished, and left behind, as it 
were^ their moulds. It was now partly fallen, but 
served as a fence between two com fields. Thie 
whole is much decayed, the pieces easily breaking 
and crumbling. 

The bishop of Philadelphia was absent, but iltut 
•proto-papas or chief priest, his substitute, whom we 
went to visit, received us at his palac^, a title given 
to a very indifferent house, or rather a cotti^e, of 
iday* We found him ignorant of the Greek tongue, 
and Were forced to discourse with him, by an inter- 
preter, in the Turkish language. He had lio idea 
that Philadelphia existed before Christianity, but 
told us it had become a city in consequence of the 
many religious foundations. The number of churches 
he reckoned at twenty-four, mostly in ruins, and 
mere masses of wall decorated with |)ainted saints.. 
Only sue are in a better condition, and have tb^eir 
priests. The episcopal church is large, and oma^ 
minted with gilding, carving, and holy portraits* 



^ See Rycaut, and Woodward*8 Catalogue of foreign Fossils, 
p. 11. 

^ Hterapolts. R. 

X 4 I 



I 



812 TRAVELS IN ASIA HINOR. 

The Greeks are about three hundred families, and 
live in a friendly intercourse with the Turks^ of 
whom they speak welL We were assured that the 
clergy and laity in general knew as little of Greek 
as the proto-papas ; and yet the litui^es and offices 
of the church are read as elsewh»e, and have under- 
gone no alteration on that account. 

The Philadelphians are a civil people. One of the 
Greeks sent us a small earthen vessel full of choice 
wine. Some families beneath the trees, by a rill of 
Water, invited us to alight, and partake of their re- 
freshments. They saluted us when we met; and 
the aga, or governor, on hearing that we were 
Franks, bade us welcome by a qaessenger. 

Philadelphia possessing waters excellent in dyings 
and being situated on one of the most capital roads 
to Smyrna, is much frequented, especially by Armei^ 
nian merchants. The khan in which we lodged 
was very filthy, and full of passengers. Mules ar- 
rived almost hourly, and were unladen in the area. 
As a caravan goes regularly to Smjona, and returns 
on stated days, we were uneasy here, and afraid of 
infection* The accounts now given us of the plague, 
a.nd of the havock it was making, were such, that 
the most intrepid person might reasonably shudder 
with horror and apprehension. 

We *^set out at nine in the morning from Phila- 
delphia for Sardes, distant twenty-eight miles, ac« 
cording to the Antonine Itinerary* The way is by 
the feet of mount Tmolus, which was on our left ; 
consisting of uneven, separate, sandy hills, in a row, 
green and pleasant, once clothed with vines, but now 
neglected. Behind them was a high ridge covered 
with snow. The plain, besides the Hermus, which 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. SIS 

divides it^ is well watered by rills from the slopes. 
It is wide, beautiful, and cultivated; but has few 
villages, being possessed by the Turcomans, who, in 
i;his region, were reputed thieves, but not given to 
bloodshed. Their booths and cattle were innume** 
rable. We stopped, after an hour, at a handsome 
fountain. The cistern was a marble coffin, carved 
with festoons, and inscribed in Greek, " Of Appius." 
In an old burying-ground near it were marble frag- 
ments. We travelled three hours and a half north- 
westward, and as long westward. We met numerous 
-caravans, chiefly of mules, on the road ; or saw them 
by its side feeding on the green pasture, their bur- 
dens lying on the ground ; the passengers sitting in 
groups, eating, or sleeping on the grass. We pitched 
our tent about sunset, and the next day, after riding 
two hours in the same direction, arrived at Sardes, 
now called Sart. 



CHAP. LXXV. 

t)F SARDES ^TAKBN BY CYRUS — ^THE TOWN BURNT BY THE 

lONIANS SURRENDERS TO ALEXANDER — SUFFERS FROM 

. AN EARTHQUAKE — ITS LATER HISTORY — ^THB THEATRE—* 

A STRATAGEM OF ANTIOCHUS OTHER REMAINS-— THB 

HILL, AND PACTOLUS — THE VILLAGE — RUIN OF A TEMPL^ 
PERHAPS OF CYBELE. 

liYDiA was celebrated for its city Sardes, whidi 
was of great antiquity, though posterior to the war 
ci Troy ^. It was enriched by the fertility of the 
soil, and had been the capital of the Lydian kings* 

^ Strabo, p. 625. Herodotus, lib. i. 



314 TBATELS IK ASIA MIKOS. 

It was seated od the side of mount I^OHdns^ and Ae 
citadel was remarkaUe for its stretq^th. This w»s 
Ob a loftj hiH ; the bock part, or that toward Tmo- 
las^ a perpendicular predpoe. One of the kings, an 
jmoestor of Croesus, it is related, bdieyed, that bjr 
leading a Uon about the wall, he should render the 
fortress impr^nabfe, and ne^^ected that portion of it 
ta totally inaccesnbfe. 

Croesus, who was tyrant or king of all the na- 
tions within the river Halys, engaging Cyrus, who 
had followed him into Lydia, was defeated in the 
jribda before the dty, the Lydian horses not endur- 
ing the sight or smell of the camds. Cjnrus then 
besi^ed him^ and offered a reward for the person 
who should first mount the walL Chie of Ins sol- 
diers had seen a Lydian descend for his hdmet, 
which had rolled down the back of the dtaddL He 
tried to ascend there, where not even a centinel was 
placed, and succeeded. Afterwards the Persian sa- 
trapas, or commandant, resided at Sardes, as the 
emperor did at Snsa. 

In the time of Darius, the Milesians sailed to 
Ephesus, and leaving tbeir vessds at mount Coris* 
sus, marched up by the river Cayster, and crossing 
mount Tmoius, surprised the dty, except the for- 
tress, in which was a numerous garrison. A soldier 
set fire to one of the houses, which were thatched, 
and presently the town was iii flames. The lonians 
i^treated to Tmoius, and in the night to their 
ships ^ 

The dty and fortress surrendered on the approach 
of Alexander, after the battle of the Granicus. His 

*" Herodolus, lib. v. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOB. 81fl 

army encamped by tfa^ riTer Henlius^ which wa3 
twenty stadia^ or two miles and a }ia]f, dirtant. He 
went up to the citadel, whfeh was then fortified 
with a triple wall, and resolved to erect in it a tem«* 
)>le and altar to Jupiter Olympius, on the site of the 
royal palace of the Lydians ^ 

Saides under the Romans was a large dty, and 
not inferior to any of its neighbours, until the teni<^ 
ble earthquake, which happened iii the time of Ti- 
berius Caesar. Magnesia by Sipylus, Philadelphia^^ 
Laodicea, Ephesus, and several more cities partook 
largely in that calamity ; but this place suffered pro^ 
dtgiously, and was much pitied. The munificence of 
the emperor was nobly exerted to repair the vari-^ 
ous damages, and Sardes owed its recovery to TU 
beriusfi^. 

The emperor Julian made Chrysanthius, a Sat% 
dian, of a senatorial family, pontiff of Lydia ^. He 
attempted to restore the heathen worship ; erecting 
temporary altars at Sardes, where none had beeil 
left> and repairing the temples, if any vestiges re- 
mained. In the year 400, the Goths, under Tribi- 
gild and Caianas, officers in the Roman pay, who 
had revolted from the emperor Arcadius, plundered 
tiie city. In the subsequent troubles in Asia, the 
natives in general were compelled to retire foi* safety 
to the hills and strong holds. At Sardes they per*^ 
mitted the Turks, on an incursion of the Tartars ui 
1804, to occupy a pdrtidn of the citadel separated 
by a strong wall with a gate, and afterwards mur- 
dered them in their sleep. 

' Arrian, p. 36. 

s Strabo, p. 579. 627. Tacitus, Ann. ii. c. 47. 

^ £unapius, p. 154. 



816 TRAVBLS IN ASIA MIKOB« 

The dte of this once noble city was now green 
and flowety. Coming frooi the east, we had the 
ground*plot of the theatre at some distance on our 
kft hand, with a small brook near us, running before 
it. The structure was in a brow, which unites with 
the hill of the citadel, and was called Prion. SomQ 
pieces of the vault, which supported seats, and com- 
pleted the semicircle, remain* 

It was on this side liie effort was made, which 
gave Antiochus possession of Sardes. An oflScer 
had observed, that vultures and birds of prey gather- 
ed there about the offals and dead bodies thrown 
into the hollow by the besieged, and inferred that 
the waU, standing on the edge of the precipices, was 
n^lected as secure from any attempt. He scaled it 
with a resolute party, while Antiochus called off the 
attention both of his own army and of the enemy by 
a feint; marching as if he intended to attack the 
Persian gate. Two thousand soldiers rushed in at 
the gate opened for them, and took their post at 
the theatre, when the town was plundered and 
burned L 

Gfoing on, we passed by remnants of mas^ve 
buildings ; marble piers sustaining heavy fragments 
of arches of brick ; and more indistinct ruin?. These 
are in the plain before the hill of the citadel. On 
<Nir right hand, near the road, was a portion of a 
large edifice, with a heap of ponderous materials 
before and behind it. The walls are standing of 
two large, lofty, and very long rooms, with a space 
between them, as of a passage. This remain, it has 
been conjectured, was the house of Croesus \ once 

? Polybius, 1. vii. c. 4. ^ See Pevssonnel's Travels. 



TKAVlELS IN ASIA MIKOKV 31T 

appr(^riated by the Sardifns, as a place of retirement, 
to superannuated citizens. It was called the Gerusia^ 
and in it, as some Roman authors have remarked, 
was exemplified the extreme durability of the an- 
cient brick ^. The walls in this ruin have double 
arches beneath, and consist chiefly of that material, 
with layers of stone* The brides are exceedingly 
fine and good, of various sizes, some flat, and broads 
We employed a man to procure one entire, but the 
cement proved so very hard and tenacious, it was 
next to impossible. Both Croesus and Mausohis, 
neither of whom could be suspected of parsimony, 
used them in building their palaces. It was a sub-* 
stance insensible of decay ; and it is asserted, if the 
walls were erected true to their perpendicular, would^ 
Without violence, last for ever. 

The hill, on which the citadel stood, appears from 
the pl^n to be triangular* It is sandy, and the sides 
rough. The fortress is abandoned, but has a double 
Ivall, as in 1304, fronting the plain, besides outworksi 
in ruins "*. The eminence affords a fine prospect of 
the country, and in the walls are two or three firag^ 
inents with inscriptions. Not far from the west end 
is the celebrated river Pactolus, which rises in the 
mountain behind, and once flowed through the mid-*- 
dte of the market-place of Sardes in its way to the 
Hermus, bringing down from Tmolus bits of gold. 
Herodotus observes, that, except this one and the 
barrow of Alyattes, Lydia was not remarkdt)le for 
wonders. The treasures of Cwesus and of his an* 
cestors were collected chiefly from the Pactolus; 

» Vitruvius, I. ii. c. 8. Pliny, I. xxxv. c. 1 4. 
^ See a plan and view in Peyssonnel, 



318 T&ATELS IN ASIA HIKOB, 

but in tiine that source fiuled^ Afta snow or rain 
a torrent descends; but novr the stream was very 
shallow ; the bed sand or grayel^ in colour inclining 
to a reddidi yellow. 

Beyond the supposed Gerusia, we turned from the 
road to the left. We passed the miserable village 
Sart, which stands, with a ruinous mosque, abQv^ 
the river, on a root or spur of the bill o£ the citadel, 
and crosring the Pactolus, pitched our tent in 9. 
flowery meadow. Not far from us were booths of 
the Turcomans, with their cattle feeding* Some d 
them joined us, and one or two wanted raki or 
brandy, but were told we had none. A small gra* 
tuity was required for the aga of the village, which 
was opposite to our tent. 

After resting a while, we wore conducted toward 
Tmolus, and suddenly struck with the view of a ruin 
of a temple, near us, in a most retired situation, be* 
yond the Pactolus, between the hill of the dtadei 
and the mountain. Five columns are standing, one 
without the' capital ; and one with the capital awry 
to the south. The architrave was of two stones. A 
piece remains on one column, but moved southward i 
the other part, with the column, which contributed 
to its support,^ has fallen since the year 1699* One 
capital was then distorted, as was imagined, by an 
ear^quake ; and over the entrance of the naos, or 
cell, was a vast stone, which occasioned wonder by 
what art or power it could be raised. That fair imd 
magnificent portal, as it is styled by the relater^i 
has since been destroyed ; and in the heap lies that 
most huge and ponderous marble. Part of one of 

" Strabo, p. 591.-625. « Chisbuirs Travels* p. 1$. 



TBAVEL& IN ASIA MINOR. 019* 

the ante is seen about four feet hig^. The soil has 
accumulated round the ruin ; and the bases, with a 
naoiety of each column, are concealed ; except one, 
which was cleared by Mr. Wood. The nuinber in 
the firont, when entire, was eight. The order is 
Ionic. The shafts are fluted, and the capitals de- 
signed and carved with exquisite taste and skilL 

It is impossible to behold without deep regret 
this imperfect rannant of so beautiful and glcnious 
an edifice ; which however is, I believe, unnoticed by 
the ancient authors now extant. Herodotus m^n* 
tions a temple dedicated to Cybebe, or Cybele, as 
damaged in the conflagration of Sardes by the Mile- 
sians. The same goddess is invoked in Sophocles' 
as inhabiting by the great Pactolus, abounding in 
gold. Croesus, king of Sardes, contributed to the 
building of the temple at Ephesus, where a similar 
mass of marble was placed over the entrance by 
Metagenes ; and if this fabric be not coeval, it was 
perhaps planned and erected by some of the succes* 
sors of that bold and enterprising architect. 



CHAP. LXXVI. 

THE aOAB TO BPHBSUS— OF LARIS9A— THB REGION CALLB0 

A8IS ^HYPCEPA — ^Bl&GHS — THE ROAP FROM PSRGAMUM 

TO SARDES. 

Xn the preceding chapter we have mentioned an 
expedition of the Milesians against Sardes. The 
distance of this city from Ephesus was five hundred 
and forty stadia, or sixty-seven miles and a half; 

P Philoctetes, v. 390. ' 



380 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

and the historian Herodotus, who idates their en- 
terprise, reckons a day's journey one hundred and 
fifty stadia, or eighteen miles and three quarters. 
The way to Ephesus was over Tmolus, which is de- 
scribed as a compact mountain, of a moderate ex-* 
tent, having its boundaries^in Lydia. 

On a summit of Tmolus was a watch-tower, erected 
by the Persians, of which perhaps the ruin is still 
extant; an hexedra, or buihling with six sides or 
seats, of white marbk. From it were beheld the 
adjacent plains, and in particular that of the Cay- 
ster; in which was Larissa, an Ephesian village, 
once a city ; the soil fruitful in vines. There was a 
temple of Apollo, and Strabo menticms a priest of 
Jupiter of Larissa as his contemporary, and a man 
of eminence at Tralles. The site was nearer to 
mount Tmolus than to Ephesus, from which place it 
was distant one hundred and eighty stadia, or twenty«- 
two miles and a halfl It was thirty stadia, or three 
miles and three quarters, from Nysa, lying above that 
city ; the way to it through Messogis, probably at 
the gap beyond Nosli-Bazar, and by the temple of 
Mater Isodrome, or Cybele af-ihe plain. This dis- 
trict, in which the Cayster rises, is likely to afford 
the curious traveller some ruins, with much pleasure 
and satis&ction. The Cilbianian plain was contigu- 
ous with it eastward, and was large, fertile, and well 
inhabited. 

The tract between the mountains Tmolus and 
Messogis is a portion of the region named Asia, in 
which was the meadow mentioned in a preceding 
chapta*. This is cdebrated by the ancient poets as 
the resort of innumerable geese, cranes, and swans. 
You might hear them, sitting on Tmolus in the 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 321 

spring; or see them feeding in the grass; arriving 
in vast companies, and settling ; or flying away^ and 
making the Cayster and the marsh resound with 
their noisy clamour ^. The marsh is now perhaps 
dry. 

At the foot of Tmolus^ descending toward, the 
Caystrian plain, was the small town, Hypaepa, where 
the Persians of Lydia had a temple served by priests 
called magi. Pausanias relates ', that he saw there 
an altar with ashes on it, differing in colour from 
common ashes ; that the ^priest entered the cell, and 
heaped dry wood on the altar ; that he then put the 
tiara, or sacred fillet, round his, head, and invoked the 
Deity, chanting from a book, in a barbarous lan- 
guage, unintelligible to the Greeks ; when the fuel 
lighted spontaneously, and a clear flame was pro- 
duced. The same wonder was also performed at 
Hierocaesarea in Lydia, at the temple dedicated by 
king Cyrus to the Persian Diana *. 

Hypaepa is now called Pyrge, and corruptly, 
Birghe. It is probable a fortress with towers (wp- 
yoi) was erected there to command the pass of mount 
Tmolus, and occasioned the disuse of the old name. 
Pyrge was one of the places which suffered from 
the exactions of the grand duke Roger, general of 
the Roman armies in 1306. Thither, in 1403, the 
body of Amir was removed from Ephesus or Aiasa- 
luck, to be buried in the sepulchre of his ancestors ; 

*i Dionysius, nc/Mify. v. 833. ' P. 176. 

* Tacitus, lib. iii. cap. 62. On a medal of this place the god- 
dess is represented with a quiver, the legend HEPCIKH, or the Per- 
sian} and on the reverse is an altar» with a Ere on it. A very 
forced explication of this plain legend is given in the notes on 
Pliny, lib. v. cap. 31. 

CHAKDLEB, ASIA M. Y 



S22 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

as in 1422 was that of Mustapha, Aticn's grandson, 
who had been killed in battle bj Cineis'. The 
town has two verj handsome mosques. 

We shall add here the route to Sardes Aom the 
plain of the Caicus and the city Peigamum \ which 
is thus described by Strabo: *'0n the east is the 
dty ApoUonia seated on an eminence ; and on the 
south a ridge c^ mountains. Passing over this, 
and going toward Sardes, Thyatu-a is on the left ; 
and on the right ApoUonis, distant three hundred 
stadia, or thirty««even nqtes and a half, both from 
** Ptogamum and from Sardes. Hien follows the 
** plain of the river Hermus and this city." 






CHAP. LXXVII. 

CRI9HULL's journey to BIRQHB — ^TO TTRIA — 1X> BPHSSUS 

—ACCOUNT OF TYRIA. 

We shall give here an abstract of Chishull's journey, 
in 1699> from Sardes to Ephesus. 

* Modem Unhr. History, vol. v. p. 149. 177. The place is here 

called Pyiga, aod fort Piigion near mount Tmolos. See also 
p. 187. 

" In Peutinger*s Table. In the Antonine Itinerary. 

Perganium - - - . — Pergamum - - - - — 

Germe - - .. m. p. 25 Gcrma - - - m. p. 25 

Thyatira - - - , - 33 Thyatira 33 

Sardes 36 Sardes 33 

Philadelphia - - . - 30 Philadelphia - - - * 28 

Tripolis 34 Tripolis 33 

Hierapolis - - . - 12 Hierapolis . . . . |2 
From Thyatira to Smyrna 3fi 
From Sardes to Hypspa 20 

Pergamum has been reckoned sixty miles north of Smyrna. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. $23 

The ascent of Tmolos is made easy by wmdings 
or traverses. The mountain is pleasant, and gar« 
niriied with an infinite variety of plants, shrubs, and 
trees. Besides a fine prospect of the country, the 
traveller is amused with impending rocks, perpen- 
dicular precipices, and the murmurs of a brook, pro- 
bably the Pfictolus. On the to^ which he gained 
in four hours, was a fruitful vale, between two lofty 
ridges ; with a vein of marble as clear and pellucid 
as alabaster. It was the latter end of April; but 
snow remained on the summits, and supplied a rapid 
current descending into the Pactc^us. The air was 
chilled, and vegetation retarded. The trees, which, 
with a kindlier aspect, were green and flourishing, 
had not even budded there. After an hour, he en- 
tered a stony track, leading down the southern side 
of Tmolus. This was steep and dangerous, or tedi- 
ous with windings ; but adorned with bright and 
shining particles resembling gold dust. In five hours 
he arrived at Birgh^. 

On the way to Ephesus, our traveller forded the 
Cayster, after three hours, not far from an anciemt 
bri^^ of three arches, ranging with the bank, and 
witnessing that the stream has changed its channel. 
He then passed on in a fertile and well-cultivated 
champaign country, between two high and snowy 
mountains, Tm<dus and Messogis, in a region inex- 
pressibly delicious; with frequent villages; and in 
seven hours came to Tyria, once, it ha6 been sup- 
posed, Tyriaeum ; a populous city mentioned in Xe- 
nophon as by the plain of the Cayster. 

From T3rria to Ephesus have been reckoned 
twenty-five miles. The way is in a long, narrow, 
and almost deserted vale. He came in seven hours 

y2 



824 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

near the end of Gallesus or the Alemdm^ <ni which 
is the old castle mentioned in our journey from 
Smjrma. The Cayster was on his right hand^ and 
there mingled with the Pegasean lake, which was 
laige and muddy. 

The approach to Tjrria is by a gentle ascent from 
the plain. The houses are numerous, with trees and 
gardens intermixed. It had th^i about fourteen 
mosques, one of which was of royal foundation, as 
the double minaree shewed. The Greeks had two 
churches. This, when Tamerlane ravaged Anatolia 
in 1402, was one of the principal cities. He inarched 
to it from Aiasaluck, forced the inhabitants to pay 
a ransom, and there was informed of the state of 
Smyrna. Tyria was in the interest of Cineis, and 
helped him to recover Ephesus from sultan Soly- 
man. 



CHAP. Lxxvni. 

WX CROSS THB HBRMUS — ^AT VAZOCLBU*— THB GT6.£AN LAKK 

ITS HISTORY — THE CBMBTBRT OF THB LVDIAN KINGS 

— ^HB BARROW OF ALYATTBS--CUSTOM OF THB GRBBKS 

REMARKS ON THB BARROW — THB DIFFICULTY OF BXAMIN- 
ING ITS CONTENTS— OF THB ANCIBNT LYDIANS. 

Sefobs Sardes, on the opposite side of the plain, 
are many barrows on an eminence, some of which 
are seen afar off. We were told, that behind them 
was a lake, and agreed to .visit it. We left Sardes 
in the afternoon, and repassed Pactolus, frirther on ; 
the stream foul and dull. In an hour we came to 
the banks of the Hermus, which was also muddy, 
but wide and rapid. We forded with the water up 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 325 

to our girths, and then rode among huts of the Tur- 
comans; their large and fierce dogs barking vehe- 
mently, and wonying us. The plain now appeared 
as bounded with mountains. The view westward 
was terminated by a single, distinct, lofty range, the 
east end of mount Sipylus. 

We approached near to the high green ridge, on 
which the barrows are, and going on beyond its 
eastern extremity, pitched our tent after three hours 
by a village called Bazocleu. A continual noise or 
hooting was made, to drive away the small birds, 
which lodged in the com. We saw them changing 
their quarters, as soon as molested, in troops. A 
large dog had followed our men, who fed him, from 
Sart. 

We were on horseback again at seven in the 
morning, and going north-westward for half an hour, 
came to the lake, which lay behind the ridge, ex- 
tending westward, aud was anciently called Gygaea. 
It is very large, and abounds in fish, its colour and 
taste like common pond water, with beds of sedge 
growing in it. We saw a few swans with cygnets, 
and many aquatic birds; in particular, one species 
resembling a gull, flying about in flocks, or lighting 
on the ground. These were white, but with the 
whole head black. The air swarmed with gnats. 

Some very ancient historians had related, that 
this lake was made as a receptacle for the floods, 
which happened when the rivers were swollen. The 
Lydians asserted it was perennial, or never dry. 
The name had been changed from Gygaea to Coloe. 
By it was a temple of Diana, called Coloene, of 
great sanctity. A story is recorded as current, that 
on the festivals of the goddess certain baskets danc- 

y3 



326 TRAVELS IK ASIA MINOR. 

ed'. The privilege of an asylum was oonfored on 
it by Alexanda*^. This probably is the Sardian 
Diana, mentioned in an inscription copied by Mr. 
Peyssonnel, and containing a pan^yric on her 
priestess. If the lake be factitioas, Uie ridge tnay 
be regarded as an immense mound raised with the 
smL 

By Gygsea, which was within forty stadia, or five 
miles, of Sardes, is the burying place of the Lydian 
kings'. The barrows are of various sizes, the 
smaller made perhaps for chiMren of the younger 
branches of the royal family. Four or five are dis- 
tinguished by their superior magnitude, and are vi- 
sible as hills at a great distance. The lake, it is 
likely, furnished the soil. All of them are covered 
with green turf; and as many as I observed, in pass- 
ing among them, retain their conical form without 
any sinking in of the top. 

One of the barrows on the eminence, neaf the 
middle, and toward Sardes, is remarkably conspicu- 
ous. This has been described by Herodotus % as 
beyond comparison the greatest work in Lydia ; in- 
ferior only to the works of the Egyptians and Baby- 
lonians. It was the monument of Alyattes, the fa- 
ther of Crcesus ; a vast mound of earth heaped on a 
basement of large stones by three classes of the 
people ; one of which was composed of girls, who 
were prostitutes. Alyattes died, after a long reign, 
in the year 562 before the Christian era. Above a 
cratury intervened, but the historian relates, that to 
his time five stones, («t^a/, termini, ov steke,) on which 



» See Strabo, p. 626, 627, y Tackus, Ann. lib. iii. cap. 63. 
» Strabo, p. 627. « Lib. i. 92. 



TftAVULS IN ASIA MINOR. 8S7 

fettara were eagraved, kad remained on the top, re- 
cording what each class had performed ; and fit>m 
the measurement it had appeared, that the greater 
portion was done by the girls. Strabo likewise has 
mentioned it as a huge mound raised on a lofty 
basement by the multitude of the dty. The drcum- 
ference was six stadia, or three quarters of a mile ; 
the height two plethra, or two hundred feet ^ ; and 
the width ^ thirteen plethra. 

It was customary among the Greeks to place on 
barrows either the image of some animal, or stelae^ 
commonly round pillars with inscriptions. The la* 
mous barrow of the Athenians in the plain of Mara- 
thon, described by Pausanias, is an instance of the 
latter usage. An ancient monument in Italy by the 
Appian way, called, without reason, the sepulchre of 
the Curiatii, has the same number of termini as re- 
mained on the barrow of Alyattes ; the basement, 
which is square, supporting five round pyramids* 

The barrow of Alyattes is much taller and hand- 
somer than any I have seen in England or else- 
where. The industry shewn in carrying earth for 
its elevation was probably excited by the pay which 
Croesus offered ; for it is not likely that the sepul-- 

^ In Herodotus, vepic^ ara^ia cf kou Siao vXc0pa* to ^ etfli ian 
'if>J6fa rpiouccd^Ka. We have supposed to t^l^oi wanting in the text 
after kcu ^ vXiBpa, See note on the passage. 

The pyramid of Cheops in Egypt was quadrangular, each side 
measuring eight plethra, and its height the sameu Lib. ii. cap. 
124. 

The pyramid of Mycerinus> his son, was much smaller, each 
side measuring three plethra. Cap. 1 34. ^ 

The pyramid by the labyrinth was likewise square, each side 
measuring four plethra, and its height the same. Strabo, p. 81 1. 

'^ Diameter. R. 

Y 4 



328 TBAV£L8 IK ASIA MINOR. 



chres of a regal fiunily, wbich possessed immense 
riches, should be raised fay public contributioo or 
gratuitous labour. The mould, which has been 
washed down, conceals the stone*work, which, it 
seems, was anciently visible. The apparent alti* 
tude is diminished, and the bottom rendered wider 
and less distinct than. before. Its measurements, 
which we were not prepared to take, deserve to be 
ascertained and compared with those given by He* 
rodotus. 

The barrows contain perhaps a considerable trea- 
sure. In this it is well secured. Some time and 
much labour would be consumed in penetrating to 
the basement, and afterwards it would be difficult to 
force a passage through the stone-work. Many men 
must be employed, and in the present state of the 
country a large guard would be necessary for their 
protection. A jealousy already prevails among the 
peojde, that strangers are in quest of hidden riches. 
The Turcomans and the neighbouring agas would 
not suffer the removal of the plunder, if obtained, 
without molestation. The enterprise is fitter for the 
basha of the district, or a general of an army, than 
for a private adventurer. The first, whether suc- 
cessful or otherwise, would probably be preyed on 
by his master for the attempt. 

The reader, it is likely, will wonder at the great 
number of girls which were employed in this work ; 
and will conceive a bad opinion of the morals of the 
Sardians. The historian relates, it was the custom 
of the Lydians to permit their daughters to pro- 
cure their own dowries ; deviating in this from the 
Greek laws, which were established among them« 
They were an ingenious people, the inventors of 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 329 

gold and silver coin, of wine-taverns, and of several 
games in general use. The female Lydians were 
much, admired for the elegance of their dress, the 
beautj of their persons, and their wonderful per- 
formance of a grand, choral, circular dance, in ho- 
nour of Bacchus ^. 



CHAP. LXXIX. 

WE REGAIN THE ROAD TO MAGNESIA — ^THE WEATHER — ^AT 

DURGUTHLI — ^TO MOUNT SIPYLUS OF THE CITY SIPYLUS 

AND SALE ^TO MAGNESIA OF NIOBE. 

After riding an hour by the side of the calm and 
noble lake, we turned to the south-west, passing by 
a fountain with an inscription ®, to recover the road 
from Sardes to Magnesia by mount Sipylus. We 
crossed the ridge, and at eleven again forded the 
Hermus. The stream was very wide, rapid, and 
turbid. We entered on the road by three barrows, 
ranging on the side close by each other. We stop- 
ped, after two hours more, near a green barrow, at 
a neat coffee-hut by Uran-lui, four hours from Sardes^ 
Our dog, which we had named Sart, here very wisely 
forsook us, and, as we supposed, returned to the Tur* 
comans, his old masters. 

The mountains, when we moved from Bazocl^u 
in the morning, were aU clear, except Sipylus, which 
was enveloped in mist. On the way a shower or 
two fell> which cooled the air, and occasioned a de-* 
licious freshness and fragrancy. Now Sipylus was 

*^ Dionysius, Ufpiriy, v. 840. * Inscript. Ant. p. 30. 



SM TmAVSLS IN ASIA MINOB. 



qmc iDd ; nMi imnMiery wnn viokbi. nM, praeeeou 

fi«n the thick Hack cloMk in wlndi k v« 

ped. At half after finr the sun brake oat, the 

Wg^btened, and abore them ha wnrnait wai 

iUe. Thm fleeces were jet hanging Jaw en the side 

of the mountain beyond the Hennas^ 

After dinii^ under a tree by a dear stream we 
rode brisklj on, and arrived in two hoars at Dor- 
gothli, or Casabar. This is a town of oonsiderafale 
extent, in the plain, with many minarees of mosques 
rising amid trees. The khan was most exceedii^y 
wretched, and our stay, though for a sin|^ night, 
seemed tedious. The pbce was a great thmough* 
Cure ; and the accounts we received of the maladj 
raging at Smyrna, became at every stage, as we ad- 
vanced, more terrible, as wdl as more authentic. 

Eariy in the morning we went <ni toward mount 
Sipylus. On our left was an opening into a phun, 
between that mountain and the end of mount Tmo* 
lus ; and beyond it was a lofty ridge covered with 
snow. Magnesia, with the river Hermus, is on the 
north side of Sif^lus. There must be the junction 
of the three plains, the Sardian, that of the Hemnis, 
and the Caystrian ; which have been described as 
below, or to the west of Sardes; as contiguous; and 
as unrivalled in fertility and beauty ^. We passed a 
wide watercourse, and a river, and then a stream, 
after which we came to the extremity of the moun- 
tain. 

Mount l^pylus was anciently noted fw frequent 
thunder. At Smyrna 1 had ofl;en listened to the 
i^mUing, and marked the remote lightning, which 

^ Strabo, p. 626. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 3S1 

gleamed from that quarter. A city of the same 
name as the mountain was once the capital of Mae- 
onia or Lydia. It was recorded, that, in the time 
of Tantalus, prodigious earthquakes had happened. 
Then many villages were absorbed, the dty Sipylus 
was subrerted, and marshes were changed into lakes. 
The credibility of this relation was demonstrated^ as 
Strabo remarks, by the dreadful effects of the earth- 
quake under Tiberius, and the overthrow of Mag- 
nesia. Where Sipylus had stood was a marsh, called 
Sale. The mountain, terminating on the north-east 
in a vast naked precipice, has now beneath it a very 
lim]:Hd water, with a small marsh, not far from a 
sepulchre cut in the rock, and there perhaps was 
Sale, and the site of Sipylus. 

We travelled on at the foot of the mountain, with 
the plain of the Hermus, which is very extensive, 
on our right hand. Our horses were much jaded, 
and we fatigued, when, after eight hours, we reached 
Magnesia. 

The famous story of the transformation of Niobe 
the daughter of Tantalus, had for its foundation a 
phenomenon extant in mount Sipylus. I shall give 
an account of this extraordinary curiosity elsewhere. 
The phantom may be defined, ** an effect of a certain 
'* portion of light and shade on a part of Sipyluii, 
** perceivable at a particular point of view." The 
traveller, who shall visit Magnesia after this infor- 
mation, is requested to observe carefully a steep and 
remarkable cliff, about a mile from the town ; vary- 
ing his distance, while the sun and shade, which come 
gradually on, pass over it. I have reason to believe 
he will see Niobe. 



SSS TSAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. LXXX. 

HISTORY OF M A6NKSIA — THB PRSSKKT TOWN — THE mOTAL 

MOSQUES— A MAUSOLEUM ^THB CASIXS--OF THB HT]> 

LUS. 

Magnesia surrendered to the Romans immedi* 
atelj after the decisive battle between Sdpio and 
Antiochus. It was a firee dt j, and shared in the 
bounty of Tiberius Cssar, next to Sardes, as second 
in its sufferings from the earthquake. While the 
Tuiks made incursions into the field of Menomen 
hy Smyrna, ruining the country, in ISOS, the em- 
peror Michael was shut up in this place ; from which \ 
he escaped by night. The grand duke Koger gar- 
risoned it with Italians. The inhabitaiits rose and i 
killed some of them ; when he besi^ed the dty, but 
was forced to retire. In ISIS it ranked among the 
acquisitions of Sarkhan, afterwards sultan of Ionia* 
It was the city chosen for his retreat by Morat, or 
Amurath the Second, in 1443, when he resigned the 
empire to his son Mahomet the Second, the conqueror 
of Constantinople. 

Soon after our arrival at the khan, we were visited 
by a Frenchman, a practitioner in physic ; who told 
us that he had attended Mr. Bouverie in a pleurisy 
at Sanderli^. He conducted us about the town, 
which retains .its ancient name, and is still very .ex- 
tensive ; spreading in the plain at the mountain. foot» 
on the acclivity of the castle hill, and up a valley 
on each side ^. It is populous, and has a great trade. 
The mosques are numerous ; and the Greeks have 
a large and handsome church, and also a monas* 
tery. 

s Attalia. *» See a view, Le BniD, p. 37. 



TKAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 388 

Among the mosques at Magnesia, two have double 
minarees or turrets, and ^re very noble structures, 
of marble. Each has before it an area with a foun- 
tain. We were permitted to enter one of them, 
which had been lately beautified, leaving our boots . 
or shoes at the door. The inside was as n^at as 
possible; and the floor covered with rich carpets. 
The ornamental painting pleased by an odd novelty 
of design, and a lively variety of colour. The dome 
is lofty, and of great dimensions. The lamps, which 
were innumerable, many pendant from the ceiling, 
with balls of polished ivory* intermixed, must, when 
lighted, amaze equally by their artfiil disposition, 
their, splendour, and their multitude. These edifices, 
a college of dervises, and a bedlam, were erected 
and endowed by sultan Morat and his queen. 

Sultan Morat intended to lead a private life at 
Magnesia. We were shewn the site of his palace, 
his seraglio, and garden. The remains are some 
pieces of wall, with several large and stately cypress 
trees. Near them is a neat mausoleum, with a dome, 
over the tombs of his wives and children, in number 
twenty-two, of different sizes, disposed in three rows, 
all plain, and of stone. 

The castle hill is exceedingly high, the ascent 
steep and tiresome, with loose stones in the way. 
By the track is a fountain, with a broken inscrip-* 
tion ^, and earthen pipes, which convey water down 
to the city. It is a mean fortress, abandoned, and in 
ruins. The cannon, it is related,' were removed ta 
the Sangiac castle in the gulf of Smyrna. The re- 
compense of our toil, in gaining the summit, was an 

' Eggs of ostriches. R. ^ Hesselius, n. 2^. 



SS4 TRAVELS IN ASIA M IKOS. 

exteoawe view of a fine Yordant pfaun^ divided b j 
the Hermus shinii^ like silver. Cliishull rdates^ 
that the needle of a sea-compass placed on diflferent 
stones, after pointing various wsgrs» qoiiU j lost its 
whole virtue. We tried with our pocket compass, 
bat discovered no sudi magnetic quality in the 
rode. 

The Romans obtained thdr great victory over 
Antiochus between Thyatira and Sardes, on the 
banks of the Hyllus, thooi called the Phrygius. His 
camp had that river in front, and was strongly fiir- 
tified. Thyatira is distant fourteen or fifteoi hours 
from Magnesia; and the Hyllus descends by it to 
the Hermus. The junction of the two streams may 
sometimes be seen from the castle K 



CHAP. LXXXI. 

« 
OUR SMBARRAftSMBNT INSBCURrTY AT MAGNESIA -^THB 

PLAGUB AT THYATIRA*— WB 8BT OC7T FOR SMYRNA— AT 

HADGILAR — ^AT SBDICUI — ^A GREBK. 

Our situation was now become veiy critical and 
distressing. We were only eight hours north-east- 
ward from Smjrma* We were all sufficiently weari- 
ed with wandering, and desirous of a respite. Se« 
veral of our horses were spoiled by the roi^h service 
they had undergone ; and some of our men were 
anxious for their families, and uneasy frcMn th$ir 
long absence. The disabled condition of our Uttle 
oorps, with the general disquietude, and the risk in 
journeying, as well from the season as fr<Mn the 

1 ChishuU, p. 56. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. S35 

disteofiper, made us ardently wish for a secure re- 
treat, but the difficulty was to find one. 

The malady, it was believed, had not yet reached 
Magnesia; but caravans were continually arriving 
from Smyrna, and it could scarcely fail of being 
speedily imported. In a khan we wa^e exposed 
among the foremost to infection. If we obtained 
admission into the Greek itionastery, or a private 
house, horror and momentary peril would be our 
portion as soon as the plague commenced ; at a dis- 
tance ft9m our countrymen, without friends, among 
people fatally ignorant and negligent ; in whom we 
could place no confidence; and from whom we, if 
attacked, could have little room to expect any atten- 
tion and regard, or indeed even sepulture. 

An Italian quack-doctor had visited us at the 
khan, and accompanied us up to the castle. He was 
just arrived from Akhissar or Thyatira, and assured 
us that place was free from contagion. We deter- 
mined, rather than enter Smyrna without absolute 
necessity, to extend our tour thither, and to Perga- 
mum ; .hoping, while we were employed on that side 
of the Hermus, a favourable alteration might ensue. 
'Die janizary and Armenians acquiesced, with some 
reluctance, and our baggage was loading, when a 
papas, or Greek priest, informed one of my com- 
panions, that he had recent intelligence from Thy- 
atira, and that the plague was then in the house of 
the 1^. Our whole arrangement was in an instant 
overturned ; but we ^reed immediately to abandon 
Magnesia; and fortunately, as the evil presaged 
became manifest there very soon after, and the civil 
Frenchman, our guide, perished among the lirst 
victims. 



S36 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 

We are now on the road to Smyrna. After riding 
for some time at the foot of mount Sipylus, we en- 
tered on a track on the left hand, and crossing the 
mountain, arrived in the plain of Hadgilar, a village 
two hours from Smyrna. We met a few travellers, 
whom we passed with caution, inquiring of them at 
a distance, and hearing a most dismal tale. Our 
terror and perplexity increased as we advanced. We 
were assured many of the villages were infected. 
We were ignorant whether we could be admitted 
into the house of the English consul, and whether 
he had remained at Smyrna. Various methods of 
giving and procuring the intelligence necessary for 
our mutual security were devised, and proposed, and 
rejected, as unsafe; when, being exceedingly em- 
barrassed, we turned aside from the road to deli- 
berate, and to repose awhile among the olive* 
trees. 

Seeing the village of Hadgilar near us, I rode on, 
followed by the Swiss, and meeting a peasant, asked 
him whether any Frank or European lived there ; 
and was answered, Mr. Lee. I gallopped up to his 
house, and was received with his accustomed cor- 
diality. A prudent regard to the safety of his fa- 
mily forbidding our admission within his gate ™, he 
ordered liquors and plenty of provisions for our re- 
ft-eshment, and with Mr. Maltas his partner, and the 
abbe D. Giuseppe Icard, who had been educated at 
the ccdlege De Propaganda . at Rome, and had at- 
tended us as our instructor in the Greek and modem 
languages, accompanied me back to the tree, where 
joy was already diffused through our tattered and 
sunburnt troop. 

"» See a view, Le Brun, p. 400. 



.TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 337 

Mr. Lee had reserved for us the house which he 
occupied the summer before at Sedicui. We crossed 
to it in the, evening, leaving Smyrna, where thp 
plague was very furious, on our right hand. The 
next day we dismissed our men, except the Swiss 
and an Armenian, our cook, who had a couple of 
horses, which we kept for some time. The janizary 
resumed his station at the ^consul's gate, with the 
same composure as if unattended with any danger ; 
and . the Armenians retired to a spot near another 
village, where many of their nation were assembled, 
waiting under tents and sheds until the malady 
should abate* . 

•" We remained five in number, besides a Greek, 
who had the care of the garden, and had been in- 
dulged with the privilege of vending its produce to 
the villagers ; but this occasioning a more free in- 
tercourse than was consistent with our safety, a se- 
paration followed; after which his place of abode 
was op some planks laid over a cistern beneath, a 
shed, at some distance from the house ; the furniture 
a very few utensils and tools, a coverlet, a garment 
or two, some dry gourds, and his gun. The danger 
of infection increasing, he accepted a compensation, 
and ceased to sell. He was intrusted with a key of 
the garden door solely for his own use, but at times 
admitted other Greeks, and sate drinking with them 
to a late hour, disturbing us with droning songs, and 
the melancholy tinklings of a rude lyre. 



CHANDLER, ASIA M. 



SS8 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR. 



CHAP. LXXXII. 

OP SBDICUI — MANNER OF WATERING THE GARDENS AN 

ENGINE—THE MOUNTAIN — OUR HOUSE — PROVISIONS 

OUR MARKBT-MAN ^MISCONDUCT OF A SERVANT— OUR 

MANNER OF LIVING— -THE TBTTIX — THE WEATHBR-— 
AN BARTHaUAK:B. 

Srdicui is a small village with a mosque and a 
iouDtain ^ It was inhabited by a few Turks and 
Greeks, and by two Franks, with their families ; the 
count de Hochpied the Dutch consul, and Mr. Fre- 
ignanx a merchant of that nation. It is seated by a 
flat plain, on which are scattered fig, almond, and 
olive trees, with some bushes; the surfiEK^ then 
parched, no . verdure, neither weeds, nor a Uade ' dF 
grass. On the west side are mountains, branches of 
Corax ; and on these the jackals howled every night, 
beginning about sunset We were informed that 
an old Turk, with a snow-white beard, had finretold, 
that Sedicui would not suffer from the plague, for 
their hunting near it was a favouraUe prognostic, 
which in his memory had never failed. 

A gentle ascent led from the village to the roots 
of mount Corax, through a corn-field, in which is a 
foimtain fed by clear rills, carefully conveyed to it 
along the slopes. Close by is a square reserviHr 
sunk in the ground ; from which in the morning 
and at evening, when the stoppage was removed, a 
streamlet ran babbling over pebbles down to the 
village, to water the gardens. We had it in our 
turn, and the garden was ingeniously disposed for 

" See a view. Le Bnin, p. 29. 



TBAVELS IN ASIA MINOR.' S89 

its reception, a small trench branching out over the 
whole area, and each bed haying its fiirrows^ with 
^he plants standing on their edges. The current 
enters at a hole in the wall, and the gardener at- 
tends and directs it with a spade or hoe ; damming 
across the general communication to turn it into 
the parterres, and conducting it about, until the soil 
is saturated ^. 

When it happened that the springs were dry, or 
the allowance not sufficient, the necessary fluid was 
raised by a machine, as in the orange-orchards of 
Scio. It is a laige broad wheel furnished with 
ropes, hanging down and reaching into the water. 
Each rope has many cylindrical earthen vessels, 
fastened to it by the handles with bands of myrtle 
IH* of rmastic* This apparatus is turned by a small 
horuKontal wheel, with, a horse or mule blinded and 
gioing round, as in a mill. The jars beneath iBll and 
arrive in regular succession at the top of the wheel, 
when they aoapty, and return inverted to >be again 
rejdenished. The trough, which receives the water, 
conveys it into a cistern to be distributed, at a pro- 
per hour, among the drooping vegetables. A like 
engine is. in use in Persia and in Egypt p. 

Above the corn-field the mountain rose, brown 
and arid ; the wild sage and plants crumbling when 
touched. In the side are narrow retired vales worn 
by torrents, and filled with spontaneous evergreens, 
thickets of myrtle in blossom, and groves of calo- 
daphne or oleander, the boughs then laden with 
flowers of a pale red colour. Amid these a slender 
current trickled down a rocky precipice, like tears, 

^ See Homer, II. tf/. p See Shaw*s Travels. 

z 2 



840 XEAVELS .IN ASIA MINOE. 

to in vart the poet's simile % from the eyes of sorrow. 
The slope afforded a pleasing view of our little vil'- 
lage and of the country ; and from a summit may 
be seen part of the gulf of Smyrna. I discovered a 
goat«tand in a dale, on the top, when I was too 
near to retreat. The savageJooking shepherds call- 
ed off and chid their dogs, which were fierce, and 
barked furiously. They were sitting at the mouth 
of a. pen, seizing the ewes and the she*goats, each by 
the hind leg, as they pressed forward, to milk them. 
Some of the flock or herd.Mrere often by the fountain 
below with their keeper, who jdayed on a rude .flute 
or pipe. 

Our house was two stories high ; chiefly of wood 
and plaster, which materials are commonly preferred, 
not only as cheap, but for security in earthquakes ; 
the joists and nails swaying and yielding as the un- 
dulation requires. The lower story was open in the 
centre. On the right hand was a magazine or store* 
room; and opposite to it, an apartment with old 
&shioned lackered chairs. Between these our ser- 
vants slept, on the ground. A door communicated 
with the offices, which were behind. The ascent to 
the upper story was by stone stairs, as usual, on the 
outside. The gallery extended the whole length of 
the front. It sheltered us from the sun, which 
darted fiery rays from a cloudless sky, and was 
agreeiAle as a place to walk and sleep in. We had 
three apartments, with wooden lattices to admit the 
air, while cool ; and with shutters to exclude it, when 
inflamed. That in the centre was small. The end , 
rooms, one of which we reserved for our meals, were 

*i Homer. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR; S41 

large, with their doors opposite* The walls were all 
white-washed. Our furniture consisted of three or 
four broken or infirm chairs, a couple of unequal 
tables, and the utensils, bedding and baggage, with 
which we had travelled. We laj on boards placed 
on stools, and moveable. 

We endeavoured, by reducing our wants to as 
small a number as we could, to avoid communicat- 
ing with Smyrna. Our village supplied us with 
fowls and eggs, and with flesh, as often as a cow 
was killed. The garden furnished a variety of ar- 
ticles, particularly a species of fruit called melinzane, 
and gourds, which are eaten stewed. But wine» 
candles, and many other requisites, coiild be pur- 
chased only in the city ; and for these a Turk was 
to be sent, as seldom as possible, with our provision- 
chests on a horse. He unloaded in the court, re^ 
ceived his pay, and left us without touching any 
person or thing. The chests were then washed with 
water and vinegar, and the contents exposed in the 
air, or fumigated as their quality directed. This 
was done before they were handled or used, with 
the most minute attention ; and, as a check on neg* 
ligence, generally under our immediate inspection. 
. The reader perhaps will imagine, that we tempted 
the Turk to go on these errands by the offer of a 
great reward ; but we had no difficulty in procuring 
a messenger to Smyrna, even when the malady 
raged most, and appeared inevitable. Our market- 
man, who likewise served the other Frank families 
at Sedicui, did not once hesitate. Fear was over- 
come by a sentiment of duty, and of obedience 
to his law. He had liberty to avoid the infected 
city ; but, if he entered, might not afterwards reT 

z3 



34t TRAYELS IN ASIA MINOR* 

feuii. HiB hire was one piaster, or about half n 
crown. The good mussohnan penerered, amd le- 
peatedly underweDt^ for this triffing gratuity, sucdi 
immediate risk, as the wiser Eurc^iean would not 
once incur for all the treasures of the grand 
signior. 

Soon after our arrival at Sedicui, we wanted some 
articles from our apartments in the consul's house, 
for which my companimis determined to go in per- 
son, escorted by a janixary. It was dusk whoi they 
left the village. They arrived at night, and did 
their business; but one of our servants getdng in 
liquor proved unmanageable, and detained them so 
long, that in coming back they met sane Turks, 
who had been burjring a corpse. The caution of the 
Franks is offensive to the Mahometans, as implying 
a distrust of the Supreme Being. The man' was 
embroiled with them, and one striking him with a 
spade, he drew a pist<4, and it was with difikndty a 
fraj was prevented. Besides the danger on tiie 
spot, our general safety was deeply interested in 
his misconduct, which indeed was witiiout ex- 
cuse. 

Our confinement proved sufficiently irksome. We 
had ^ome books and our papers with us, and full 
leisure for study or meditation. A very few kind 
visitants, among whom was Mr. Lee, called on us 
now and then, and inquired of our welfare, at a dis^ 
tance ; condoling with us on the necessity of mutual 
estrangement, or relating the pn^ress of the malady 
and its daily havock, which afforded but too much 
room for strenuous exertions of fortitude and resign 
nation. The brightness and ])ower of the sun, wiA 
the extreme heat of the air, made us seldom stir oat. 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOK/ 343 

unless eaily : in the monnng, and in the evening. 
The languor of noon demanded sleep. The body, 
though arrayed a& tfahify: and loosely as possil^ 
was covered durn^ the day with big drops of 
sweat, and dissolved, as it were, in a mighty and 
universal perspiration* Then ftdlowed a milder sky, 
lengthening shadows, and a gradual coolness, grate^ 
fill and pleasing beyond imagination. Then was 
the comfortable hour for change of linen and of ap* 
parel, to enjoy the garden, or to wander on the 
mountain. These privil^es of our situation were 
not inconsideraUe ia thdr value, as some of our ao 
quaintance testified, whose lot it was to be pent up 
in the city, tormented by insects, drooping, and' dis« 
pirited, with nothing to alleviate or divert their me* 
lanchply. The castle hiU of ^nyrna was im ofaj^tt 
plainly in view in these our walks, and beheld not 
without emotion. The plague and death were busy 
near us» and the intelligence which we received from 
the Franks and Greeks was dreadfiil to hear. We 
hid personal liberty, but it became more and moie 
necesdary to use it with extreme caution, by avoid- 
ing the nesir approach of any whom we dianced to 
meet, and aU intercourse, Which could produce dan- 
ger or suspicion. The sun settmg behind the sum- 
mits .of mount Corax, left the sky serene, and stained 
with rich and vaiying tints. A chorus of jackals 
en»ied ; and the cAcuvaia, or night-hawk, flitted in 
the air. 

We found Sedicui free firom the insect which had 
mcAested us at Smyrna, except a few stray musquit- 
toes, and some of the small flies, which w^e very 
teasing; but the tettix, or cicada, in the day-time 
is extremely troublesome. It is a brown insect re^ 

z4 



344 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOK. 



semUing a chafer, with wii^ mudi longer than its 
body, and thin like those of a fly. It sits on the 
bushes and trees, making with its wings, as is af«- 
finned by Hesiod% a very loud, ugly, screaking 
noise. When one b^ns, others join, and the dis- 
agreeable concert becomes universal; then a dead 
pause ensues ; and then, as it were on a signal, it 
commences again. Dionysius of Syracuse signified 
his resolution to bum and lay waste the territory of 
a people, with whom he had a quarrel, when he said, 
that, if they refused to comply with hU demands, 
their tettixes should sing an the ground. 

We had excessive heat in the latter end of May, 
the wind northerly ; as also during the harvest in 
June. From that quarter it blpwed fiery ^ from a 
furnace, coming over mountains scorched by the 
sun. We endeavoured to exclude it by closing our 
shutters and doors, though gasping for breath. The 
thermometer, which at other times was commonly 
between eighty-four and eighty-six, then rose at 
noon to ninety-five. The harvest was presently 
over. The sheaves were collected in the field, and 
the grain trodden out by buffaloes. In the morning 
the wind was often southerly, before the inbat from 
the bay reached us. This frequently continued to a 
late hour, rustling among the trees. We had thun-* 
der, with distant lightning, in the beginning of June ; 
and, in the latter end of July, clouds began* to ap- 
pear from the south. The air was repeatedly cooled 
by showers, which had fiiUen elsewhere, and it was 
easy to foretell the approaching rain. This was the 
season for consuming the dry herbage and under-4 

• - ' *E^. ka) 'H^/>. /3*jS?^. jS'. V. 202. 



TEAVELS^ IK ASIA MINOE. $45 

growth on the mountains ; and we often saw the fire 
blazing in the wind, and spreading a thick smoke 
along their sides. 

On the eleventh of July we had an earthquake, 
which agitated the whole house, the beams and joists! 
of the roof crashing over our heads* It happened 
about seven in the morning, and was preceded by a 
hoUow rumbling noise, which was mistaken by se-* 
veral persons for the report of cannon ; the captain 
basha or Turkish high admiral then waiting with a 
fleet in the gulf of Smyrna, to receive on board the 
revenues of the grand signior. The sound seemed 
to come from the south-east. The sensation was 
such as would be felt, I imagine, if the earth were 
set suddenly afloat. It occasioned a great alarm. 
Some lesser shocks succeeded, but their centres were 
remote. 



CHAP. LXXXIII. 

BBGINNING OF THE PLAGUE — SOME ACCIDENTS — ITS FURY 
. — ^ITS PROBABLE CAUSE HOW COMMUNICATED ^NOT PES- 
TILENTIAL, OR IN THE AIR — UNCONTROLLED^INFATU- 
ATION OF THE TURKS. 

Th£ banning of the plague was, as we have re-^ 
lated, in the spring. The first sufierers were from 
the island M usconisi, or from Tino. An uncertain 
rumour preceded its manifestation. One sickened^ 
then two or more ; until, the instances multiplying^ 
the Franks shut their gates, or prepared to retire into 
the country. It was no new enemy, and as yet pro- 
duced no great terror. When we were about to quit 
Smyrna, three English gentlemen, Mr. Fitzgerald, 
Mr« Skipwith, and Mr. Wilbraham, arrived from 



S4tf. T&AYBLS IN ASIA MINOB. 

AthenSt with Mr. TVnraMk a veiy worth j pkpUmh 
who had lived maiij years at Smyrna, and was hi|^y 
esteemed there by the Europeans m general They 
were visited, and received, and no danger appre- 
hended. 

The kindly temperature of the weather gave vi- 
gour to the disease, while W6 were absent, and it 
was propagated amazingly* The consul then ap- 
pointed a market-man from among his domestics; 
and his station was at the gate near the janizary* 
After about three weeks he was attacked, carried 
with his bedding to the hospital, and died the same 
day. A maidservant next complained that she bad 
taken cold by sleeping on the terrace. She had a 
slight fever with the head-ache. Half a paper of 
James's powder purged and sweated her. The fever 
returned every afternoon. Another half paper vo- 
mited her ; but neither eating nor sleeping, she grew 
costive and weak. An Italian, who was physician 
to the factory, came on the ninth or tenth day from 
the country, and standing below, ordered the patient 
to be brought to the stair-head. He obseired a vein, 
under her tongue, black and very turgid ; pronounc- 
ed her disorder to be the plague ; and advised send- 
ing her to the hospital, where his opinion was con- 
firmed by a Greek. She was then removed to the 
Roman Catholic hospital, and died after lingering on 
ten days. The welfare of a large family was ran* 
dered suspicious by this alarming incident. We 
had reason to rejoice both that we did not tarry in 
Smyrna, and that we had met with our friend at 
Hadgilar. 

^ The malady did not abate in May, when we took 
possession of our asylum. FoUr persons were seized 



TRAVELS IN AgIA MINOR. 947 

in the finnily of the cadi, the deputy chancellor of 
the French nation died, and a drugoman, or inter- 
preter, was attacked. Turks, Jew^ Greeks, Arme*- 
nians, and the like,- perished without number. Of 
the Greeks alone sometimes above an hundred and 
thirty were buried in a day. It was generally agreed 
the calamity had uot been severer in the memory of 
man. In July, when the captain pasha arrived to 
receive the taxes and tribute-money, some hundreds 
of houses, it was said, were unoccupied or without 
owners. A fire, which began to rage near the Frank 
quarter, seemed, amid aU this misery, to threaten new 
affliction, but was fortunately subdued.^ . i 

The plague might perhaps be truly defined, a^ 
disease arisins from certain animalcules, probably 
iriviHble, whii b«r«,w and form their niduV in the 
hmnanbody ^ These, whether generated originally, 
in Egypt or elsewhere, subsist always in some {daces 
suited to their nature. They are imported almost 
amually into Smyrna, and this species is^ commonly, 
destroyed by intense heat« They are least fatal at 
the bieginning and latter aid of the season. If they 
aerive early in the spring, they are weak ; but gatbev^ 
strei^h, multiply, and then perish. The pores^ of 
tlie^skiii, opened by the weather, readily admit them. 
One or more tumours, chiefly in the glandular parts, 
ensue, with a variety of the most afflicting symp* 
toms. If the patient- survive suppuration, he is 
dreadfully infectious; and the calamity is-wofoUy 
augmented by ^he consideration that one recovery 
in no security from' future attacks. Seycuse, an Ar- 
menian, who had been odr cook, and at my request 

«'Scfe an accotftat*6f the l^ftgim, UlloA'a Voya^, vdL i. p. 64;* '• 



S48 TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOR^ 

revealed his unsightlj scars, perished now ; and, as I 
was assured, it sometimes happens, that in one sea- 
son an individual is twice a sufferer. 

The plague is a disease communicated chiefljr, if 
not solely, by contact. Hence, though it encirde 
the house, it will not affect the persons within, if all 
are uniformly discreet, and provident^ as experience 
has demonstrated. Tranquillity of mind and free- 
dom from apprehension cannot be expected. They 
are most disagreeably, and without the minutest 
care most dangerously circumstanced. Iron, it is ob- 
served, and the like substances, which are of a dose 
hard texture, do not retain, or are not susceptible of 
the contagion. In bodies soft or porous, and espe- 
dally in paper, it lurks often undiscovered but by its 
seizing some victim. The preservatives are fumi- 
gation, and washing with water or vinegar. In par- 
ticular a letter is taken up with a pair of tongs, and 
in a manner singed before it can be opened with 
safety. Domestic animals, which are prone to wan- 
der, must be excluded or destroyed. A large family 
will require many artides to be procured fit>m with- 
out, and is exposed in proportion to its wants. ' If 
in the dty, a clandestine intercourse of debauched 
servants is ever to be feared ; if in the country and 
detached, some untoward acddent, or trivial but 
important inadvertency. Unremitting attention is 
necessary to avert horror and suspidon from either 
situation. 

The streets of Smyrna are so narrow and filthy^ 
the .houses so crowded, and the concourse of peo{de 
in spring so gr^at, that during the summer heat^ 
distemper could not fail to riot there, if the town 
were not r^^larly perflated by the inbat and land- 



TRAVELS IN ASIA MINOBr. 349 

breezes ; but the plague is not the olQ^pring of: the 
atmosphere. It perhaps could not even exist long in 
a pestilential air. The natives retire to rest about 
sunset, and rise with the dawn, when the. dead are 
carried on biers to be interred. The Frank, who. has 
business to, transact, goes from the country to his 
house in the town in the interim, or returns with>- 
out fear* Solitude and the sacred night befii^d 
him. 

, The progress of the plague at Smjmia is utterly 
uncontrolled. The people, except the Franks, are 
in general as negligent as ignorant. TJheir dwell* 
ings are crowded, many inhabiting in a small com« 
pass ; and their chambers are covered with matting 
or carpets, sofas, and cushions, adapted as well to 
retain as to receive contagion, Besides this, the 
Turk deems it a meritorious office to assist in carry- 
ing the dead ; and, on perceiving the iuneral of a 
mussulman, hastens to put his shoulder under the 
bier, on which the corpse lies extended and in its 
clothes. He perseveres in the pious work, until rcr 
lieved by one equally mad and well-meaning. Seve^ 
ral succeed by turns, and concur to rescue the living 
plague &om being interred with the carcase, its 
prey. This kind of infatuation is not, however^ 
without some utility. It ensures burial, the sick, aw 
tended, and the. markets supplied. 

The plague might be whoUy averted from these 
countries, or at least prevented from spreading, if 
lazarettoes were erected, and salutary, regulations 
enforced, as in some cities in Europe. Smyrna 
would be affected as little perhaps as Marseilles, if 
its police were as well modelled. But this is the 
wisdom of a sensiUe and enlightened people. The 



S50 TRATKIJS IN ABIA MINOE. 

Turk will not acknowledge the means as efficadwui, 
or will reject them as unlawful. A bigotted pre- 
destinarian, he resolves sickness or health, pleasure 
or pain, with all, even the most trifling, incidents of 
life, into the mighty power and uncontrollable will 
of the Supreme Being. He views the prudent Frank 
with insolent disdain, and reproaches him with timi- 
dity or irreligion. He triumphs in superior courage 
and confidence, going out or coming in during the 
malady with a calm indifference, as at other times ; 
like the brute beast, unconscious of the road which 
leads to his security or destruction. 



CHAP. LXXXIV. 

DURATION OF THE PLAGUB — IT APPBAHS AT SBDICUl — ITS 
CESSATION — Vm EBTURN TO SMYENA — PREPAEB TO LEAVE 
ASIA. 

It is an established opinion among the Greeks, that 
soon after St. J<An's day, 0. 8. the tmyof the plague 
decreases, and that the term of its duration does not 
extend beyond the 10th or 15th of Aurast About 
that time the Frank merchants commonly unlock 
their gates, drooping triade revives, and a free inter- 
course is restored. We looked forward, as may be 
imagined, to that period, with the most earnest de- 
sire and impatience. 

The villages round 8myma suffered sooner or 
later with the dty ; nor was Sedicui wholly exempt- 
ed. A Greek, eager to secure the trifling effects of 
a deceased brother, went to the town, returned and 
sickened ; was carried back, and presently expired. 



TRAVELS IN A 81 A MINOB. SSI 

A Frenchman, valet to count de Hochpied» who 
Iiv€d opposite to us, a wall. separating our gardens, 
complained of indisposition in the beginning of July. 
A swelling appeared, and a poultice applied to it 
was attended with sharp pain, and raised a fiery 
bladder. Susfndon was then exchanged for unwel- 
come certainty. He was removed to Smyrna, and 
recovered. This family was well regulated : and 
the man, who had a good character for his care and 
circumspection, could not account for )m Contract- 
ing the malady, unless it were communicated by a 
sheathed knife, which in following his master he 
had picked up, and instantly on recollection thrown 
down again. These accidents disturbed our quiet, 
removed all confidence in our retreat, and made us 
redouble our vigilance and caution. A fire also hap- 
pened, which destroyed a house by our garden. 

We were happy, when the month of August amv- 
ed, in finding the popular remark on the continuance 
of the plague verified. The city was said to be free 
from that disease, but a contagious and mortal fever 
raged, principally amdng the Greeks. This was at- 
tributed to their diet, which in the summer season 
consists almost whoUy of fruits. We engaged a 
number of horses and mules to carry us and our 
baggage once more to Smyrna ; and the 8th of Au- 
gust was fixed for our departure from Sedicui, where 
we had resided from the 11th of May. 

It was striking, as we passed the Turkish ceme- 
teries, on our way into Smyrna, to contemplate the 
many recent graves of different sizes, exhibiting the 
uncertain tenure of a frail body at every stage of 
life ; and furnishing melancholy evidence that death 
had been glutted with as little distinction of age as 



352 TBAV£LS IN ASIA MINOK. 

of condition. Farther on w^e the half-burned ruin& 
of houses, wh^ch had lately. menaced a general con- 
.flagration. In the Frank street, which had been 
crowded in the winter, we now met a few persons 
wearing a pensive look ; and the comparative soli- 
tude of that quarter added force to the dismal ideas 
which intruded on us. All had been involved in 
public miseiy and in private distress, but some were 
wimderfuUy spared. We were heartily greeted by 
the &t janizary at the gate. The consul welcomed 
tis again, and soon after we had the satisfaction of 
seeing our other friends, and Mr. Lee. 

It was natural to wish for a speedy removal from 
3, country, in which we had been exposed to so many 
dangers. We resolved to proceed immediately to 
Athens. We found on inquiry that we could not 
draw on Leghorn for money from thence ; and that 
■to obviate much friture difficulty and solicitude, we 
must carry specie with us. Mr. Lee accepted our 
biUs on London for 800/. at the usual discount. The 
animosities which had subsisted between the go- 
vernors in the district of Cuthaya, and the basha of 
Ouzel-hissar, had now produced hostilities ; and on 
the north side of the gulf of Smyrna some great men 
were seizing cannon, horses, and arms, and prepar- 
ing to decide their disputes by. battle. These trou- 
bles would have prevented our making any farther 
excursions from Smyrna. We hired a boat to sail 
in ten days ; and had reason to rejoice that our long 
stay on this continent was so near a conclusion. 

THE END. 



INDEX. 



AbYDOS 17. 

Accan, a bridge 299. 

Acra Melsena, or Black Point 

69. 
Adramyttium 74* 
Mg^n sea 10. 20. 
^gina, island of 1 1. 
^olia 89. 93. 96. 
iEtna, M. 29. 
Aiasaluek 130. 133. 134. 138. 

139. 140. 144, 145. 146. 

148. 150. 154. 156. 160. 

163, 172. 175. 178. 215. 

260. 321. 324. 
Akhissar 335. 
Akshouieh 254. 
Alabanda 232. 246. 249. 251. 

253. 269. 270. 272. 
Ala-shahir 307. 309. 
Alemdn, see Gallesus. 
Aleos, rivulet 113. 
Alexandria 21. 
Alexandria, Egypt 32. 
Alex-^ndria Troas 27. 31. 32. 

Alinda 254. 

Allahscbeyr, the city of God, 

307- 
Alyattes, barrow of 3 1 7. 327. 

Anatolia^ or Asia Minor 75. 80. 

324- 
Andronocopolis 263. 

Andres, island of 1 1 . 

Angora 309. 

Antigonia 31. 

Antiochia 260. 262. 268. 272. 

273- 
Apamea 271. 272. 294. 296. 

297. 301. 

ApamearCibotos 280. 

Apamene plain 296. 

Aphrodisias 254. 271. 

Apol Ionia 322. 

Apollonis 322. 

CHANDLER, ASIA M. 



Appian way 327. 

Arabia 244. 

Arabi-hissar 254. 

Archipelago 10. 

Arconnesus 126. 

Argennum, promontory of 1 15. 

Armenia 276. 

Aromata, or Armata 263. 264. 

Arpas-kalesi 252. 271. 

Artemisium, the -162. 

Arvisia 65. 176. 177. 

Asi, fort of 274. 

Asia Minor 134. 145. 218. 230. 

256. 
Asian meadow of Homer 274, 
Asis 291. 320. 
Asius, monument of 274. 
Asopus, river 284. 
Aspis, island of 1 26. 
Assyn-kalesi 226. 229. 
Asteria, islet of 223. 224. 
Astragon 254. 
Atarneus 205. 
Athenaeum, the 158. 
Athens 36. loi. 132. 352. 
Athos, mount 28. 29. 170. 
Attalia 74. 
Attica II. 165. 
Auctui 186. 
Avernus, lake of 209. 
Aulocrene 296. 301. 
Aurtborgusi 180. 
Baba, cape of 12. 50. 
Bafl 203. 204. 248. 
Barbary, shore of 4. 
Bargylia 230. 231. 232. 
Basilicus Sinus 191. 
Bautenau 219. 
Bazocleu 325. 329. 
Belbina, island of i r . 
Birgh^ 321. 323. 
Biscay, Bay of 6. . . . 

Bodrun 119. 

Boiuc-Minder, river of 217. 
A a 



INDEX. 



Bonavre 86. 88. 
Bouarbasha 30f. 
Brancbids, ruins of i86. 187. 
Britila 263. 

Biijaw, plain of 86. 139. 
BiiUada 305. 
Cabrera, island of 9. 
Cadmus, mount 276. 284. 295. 

299. 
Cadoagi 112. 
Caicus, river 104. 322. 
Calaon, brook of 132. 
Calaurea, island of 1 1. 
Cali-bech-osmoc, the Utile Rwer 

181. 
Callicoloni, part of M. Ida 5 1 . 
Camelide, islet of 222. 
Candia 257. 
Cantabria 262. 
CapouraouM, lake of 203. 
Caprus, stream of 283. 284. 
Carabash, or the black Sash, 
* island of 1 26. 
Carajesu 271. 
Caria 76. 146. 178. 191. 211. 

213. 218. 225. 232. 239. 

241. 252. 254. 262. 271. 

272. 275. 285. 296. 298. 

308. 
Caria, Upper 297. 
Carian mountains 102. 
Carpuseli 248. 250. 251. 253. 

254- 
Carura 272. 273. 274. 275. 276. 

Caryanda, lake 231. 232. 

Casabar 330. 

Catakekaumene, or the burned 

307. 309. 

Cayster, river 94, 133. 138. 

^39- 153- 159- 163- '64- 
176. 217. 263. 314. 320. 

.321. 323- 324- 
Cayster, monument of 274. 

Caystrian plain 321 330. 

Cea, island of 11. 

Celaense 179. 295. 296. 297. 

298. 301. 

Cerhnrdam 11 1. 

Cerigo, or Cythera 10. 

Cbalcis in Euboea 107. 

Changlee 193. 194. 216. 



Cbanglee, Turkish 196. 
Characa, or Acharaca 261. 265. 

274. 
Cbaronium 265. 
Cbemali 39. 41. 42. 43. 44. 
Cherronese 12. 13. 5 3* 
Chili 130. 

China, river 253. 254. 25^. 
Chios, island of 59. 115. 119. 

132. 192. 
Chioaek, or Chiatiskui, a hut 269. 
Chisme 115. 116. 
Chomkali 49. 50. 52. S3- S7» 
Chonos 299. 300. 
Christo, Monte 9. 
Chytrium 117. • 
Cibotos 272. 
Cilbianian hills 163. 
Cilicia 310. 
Cineis 322. 
Claros 127. 129. 130. 131. 132. 

133- 150- 
Clazomene 73. 95. 96. 102. 

107. 109. 110. 114. 117. 

119. 
Coelos, bay of 18. 53. 
Cogamus, river 309. 310. 
Coloe, lake 325. 
Coloene, temple of 325. 
Colonae, or the HUUy a town 43. 
Colonne, cape of 1 1 . 
Colophon 89. 90. 127. 132. 

133- 
Colossse 284. 294. 295. 298. 

299. 300. 
Constantinople 12. 21. 23. 30. 

35. 37. 46. 58. 66. 93. 97. 

161. 243. 279. 332. 
Corax, mount 103. 105. iii. 

128. 338. 343. 
Corissus 148. 149. 152. 153. 

154. 157- 175- 3H- 
Cornea 179. 

Corsica 6. 

Corycus, mountain of 1 13. 115. 

116. 117. 

Coryna, promontory of 114. 

Coscinia 269. 270. 

Cotyaeium in Phrygia 303. 

Cuthaya 303. 352. 

Cybellia 115. 



INDEX. 



Cydram 298. 
Cyme, city of 75. 95. 
Cynossema, the Barrow of He- 

Cuba 17. 
Cyprus 299, 
Cythera, or Cerigo 10. 
Danube, the 173. 
Dardanell, Asiatic 23. 
Dardauelles 93. 
Dardanus 17. 

Denisli 276. 28 1. 299. 300. 304. 
Depecui 137. 
Derasidee, islet 258. 
Dindyraus, M. 308. 
Dinglar 301. 
Dorylaeum 308. 
Dromiscos 223. 
Drymusa, islet 109. 
Durguthli 330. 
Egg, the, a rock 11. 
Egypt 21. 27. 183. 184. 339. 

347- 
Ele{^, town of 19. 20. 53. 

Elez-Oglu 191. 

Elijah, brook of 125. 

Endyniion, cave of 224. 

Enekioi, or New Town 44. 45. 

Ephesus 90. 105. 126. 130. 

132. 133. 134. 137. 138. 

140. 143. 144. 145. 146. 

147. 148. 149. 152. 154. 

156. 157. 159. 160. 161. 

162. 163. 164. 165. 166. 

170. 175. 176. 177. 190. 

193. 227. 241. 245. 260. 

271. 272. 296. 314. 315. 

319. 320. 321. 322. 323. 

324- 
Erythrs 105. iii. 113. 114. 

115. 116. 119. 
Eshekleer 79. 
Eski-hissar 239. 240. 253. 265. 

277. 302. 
Eski-Stamboul, city of 23. 27. 
Eudon, river 265, 
Euromus 191. 
Euxine sea 1 84. 
Gades 5. 

Ga^sus, or Gessus, river of 196. 
Gallesus, or the Al^nan^ mount 

128. 129. 133. 137. 138. 



146. 153. 154. 162. 163. 

164. 202. 324. 
Gallipoli 51. 57. 
Gatte, cape de 5. 
Gengere, rivulet 269. 
Genoa 5. 6. 7. 8. 61. 
Grerae 115. 117. 119. 120. 
Gerelikioi 270. 
Gerusia 317. 318. 
Geyra 270. 271. 
Ghauzocleu 225. 
Giaur-Changlee 196. 
Giaur-Kelibesh 197. 199. 
Giaurkioi, a Greek village 45. 

49.51.52. 
Gibraltar 2. 3. 
Giumiskioi, river 284. 
Gorgogna, island of 8. 
Greece 102. 
Gnus, mountain of 191. 225. 

226. 232. 
Gumuldarn 128. 
Guzel-hissar 84. 144. 145. 252. 

254. 255. 268. 269. 270. 

303. 352- 
Gyga^, lake 325. 326. 

Hadgilar 346. 

Hadgilar, plain of 336. 

Hadjelar 86. 

Hadrianopolis 241. 

Hi^-sic, a rivulet 270. 

Halesus, a stream 1.39, 

Halicarnassus 231. 

Halitsea, a spring 143. 

Halys, or Halesus, river 132. 

133- 3H- 
Harpasa 252. 

Harpasus, river 249. 251. 252. 

253- ass- 
Hecuba, the Barrow o/* 17. 

Helice in Achaia 193. « 

Hellas 102. 

Hellespont 12. 13. 17. 18. 19. 

21. 26. 32. 33. 35. 45. 53. 

S8. 173- 
Heraclea 129. 202. 204. 205. 

209. 210. 211. 212. 213. 

217. 220. 224. 236. 247. 

248. 250. 

Hera Mesate, promontory of 



114. 



A a 2 



INDEX. 



Hermiu 77. 92. 93. 94. 95. 96. 

102. 307. 308. 310. 312. 

315* 317- 3aa- 3H- 3»9- 

330. 33I-.334. 335- 
Hennus, plain of 330. 

Hierapolis 285. 288. 289. 291. 

292. 294. 298. 300. 302. 

305- 306. 

Hierocaesarea 321. 

Hippi, four islets before the 
port of Erytbrae 114. 

Homerkioi 269. 

Hortend 136. 

H080I0U8, rivulet 284. 

Hybanda, island of 223. 

Hydre, island of 1 1 • 

Hydrus, city of 90. 

Hyls 259. 

Hyllus, river 334. 

Hymettus, mountain of 11. 

Hypepa 321. 

Hypelseus, fountain of 1 57. 158. 

IJypsile 124. 125. 

Hypsilobounos, The high Moun- 
tain 124. 

Jack-cui 263. 

lasian bay 230. 

lasus 226. 227. 230. 237. 244. 

Ida, mount 12. 13. 16. 30. 32. 

42. 45- 
Jeni-sheir, castle of 269. 270. 

271. 
Illium 32. 50. 
Imbros 20. 
India 241. 
Ionia 89. 96. 102. 120. 131. 

154. 170. 178. 183. 184. 

191. 225. 271, 272. 297. 

33a. 
Ipsera 12. 

Ipsili-hissar 270. 

Ishecleh 301. 

Italy 6. 1 24. 

Kara-bomu 69. 96. 114. 

Karavouno. cape 1 1 1. 

Kelibesh 180. 201. 203. 

Kezel-hissar^ a castle 139. 

Kindye 231. 

Koushadase 178. 

Kula, fort of 310. 

Labranda 246. 247. 249. 



Lade» island of 222. 224. 
Lagina 241. 254. 272, 
Lakena 254. 
Lamptera, port of 96. 
Laodicea 270. 271. 272. 273. 

276. 277. 279. 280. 281. 

282. 283. 284. 285. 286. 

288. 294. 297. 298. 299. 

300. 301- 304. 309. 310. 

311. 315. 320. 
Latmos 220. 
LatmuSy mount 1B6. 191. 202. 

204. 209. 211. 213. 214. 

219. 223. 248, 253. 
Lebedus 124. 125. 126. 127. 

133- 
Lectos, cape of 12. 28. 30. 32. 

40. 50. 
L^hom 5. 8. 9. 12. 352. 
Leimon, or the Meadow 274. 
Lemnbs 12. 20. 33. 
Lepre Acte 157. 
Lesbos 12. 

Lethsus, river 257. 258. 
Levant, the 49. 
Leuce 95. 
Lisbon 2. 
Long island, or the English Is- 

land 109. 
Lycia 76. 241. 
Lycus, rivulet 283. 284. 286. 

294. 296. 297. 299. 300. 
Lydia 74. 297. 298. 307. 308. 

313. 314. 317. 320. 321. 

326. 330. 
Lyons, gulf of 6. 
Macria 1 19. 
Mseander, the river, now called 

Mendres 84. 92. 94. 144. 

145. 160. 179. 181. 184. 

203. 209. 212. 214. 2l6. 

217. 218. 221. 222. 223. 

224. 225. 241. 252. 253. 

257. 259. 260. 262. 263. 

264. 266. 268. 269, 270. 

271. 272. 273. 274. 279. 

284. 286. 287. 294. 295. 

296. 297. 298. 300. 301. 

303; 304- 305- 309- 
Maeonia 307. 

Magnesia 79. 84. 144. 145. 



INDEX. 



252. 257. 258* 260. 264. 
267. 268. 272. 304. 315. 

329- 330. 331- 332- 333- 

334- 335- 
Malea, cape of 11. 

Malta 10. 

Marathon, plain of $9j. 

Marathusa, islet 109. 

Maratimo, island of 10. 

Marseilles 349. 

Marsyas, river 247. 295. 296. 

301. 
Mastaura 263. 
Mastauro 264. 
Mastusia, mount 83. 
Mastusia, promontory of 12. 

19. 20. 53. 
Matapan^ cape of 10. 
Mater Isodrome, temple of 3 20. 
Mediterranean sea 2. 3. 
Melas, gulf of 20. 
Melasso 234. 
Meles, river 79. 87. 88. 89. 90. 

96. 134. 
Melle, cape de 6. 
Men Arcseus, temple of 276. 
Men Ascseus, temple of 276. 
Men Cams, temple of 276. 
Mendelet 244. 245. 247. 248. 

249. 251. 
Mendres, formerly Msander9o. 
Menomen, or Menimen 92. 93. 

332- 
Men Fhamaces, temple of 276. 

Mersenet 213. 

Mesaulion 145. 

Messogis 179. 203. 204. 219. 

258. 260. 263. 264. 265. 

274. 275. 279. 285. 304. 

305- 307- 320. 323. 
Metropolis 134. 136. 137. 139. 
Miletus 130. 180. id I. 182. 

184. 185. 188. 192. 193. 

202. 203. 205. 209. 212. 

213. 214. 215. 216. 219. 

220. 221. 222. 223. 224. 

247. 248. 249. 263. 
Mimas, mount of 69. 105. 1 1 1. 

113. 114. (16. 117. 
Minerva Sunias, temple of 1 1 . 
Minorca, island of 5, 



Mitylene 12. 58* 59. 74. 
Modona 10. 
Morea, the 10. 6 u 
Musconisi, island of 100. 345, 
Mycale 179. 180. 187. 192^ 

194. 196. 197. 199. 3l6r 

217. 219. 
Mylasa 211. 213. 232* 233, 

234. 238. 239. 240. 245. 

244. 246. 247. 249. 25a 

251- 253. 
Myndus 231. 
Myonnesus, promontory of x 24. 

126. 127. 
Myrina, in Lemnos 28. 
Myrmeces, or the PismireSf rodka 

94' 95- 
Mysia 104. 307. 308. 

Myus, lake of 129. 204. 205. 

208. 209. 2IO. 211. 212. 
213. 217. 219, 220. 222« 

223. 236. 247. 248. 250. 
NaustathmoB, port of 96. 
Nea, or New Town 45. 
Neapolis, now Scala Nova 154. 

164. 175. 177. 191. 
Neontichos 93. 
Nice 305. 
Norlecui 86. 
Nosli 252. 271. 
Noftli -bazar, or market of Nosli 

268. 273. 320, 
Nosli-Boiuc, or Great NoiU, 

town of 26^8. 269. 
Notium 132. 133. 
Njrmpheum 75. 263. 310. 
Nysa 260. 261. 263. 264. 265. 

266. 267. 26&. 274. 282. 

293. 320. 
Obrimas, river 296. 
Ochieuse 301. 
Olalanazzi 135. 
Oranduick 214. 
Orgas> river 296. 301. 
Ortygia i77. 178- 
Orthosia 269. 270. 
Osebanar 137. 215. 
Osebash^ rocks of 203. 215. 

219. 223.. 
Pactolus 317. 318. 319. 323. 

324- 



INDEX. 



Vrntitpm^ mount 138. 143. 148. 

*7»- 257- 
F^iguB, mount 74. 89. 

Paieslu, river 354. 

F^tshin 238. 

Fdbeii-PlK^a, or Old Phocaa 

96. 
Nmty or Miletus i8a 181. 
Plilatsha 217. 
Fsleologopolisy or Andr^nioopo- 

lis 203. 
Ptoibouk 277. 285. 286. 289. 

299. 300. 303. 305* 
Fanionium 192. 193. 
Ptoormusy port of 164. 1 87. 
Fames 11. 

Pttasean lake 163. 324* 
Pele, islet 109. 
Pelinflmis M. 59. 61. 
Peloponnesus 10. 
Pentele» mountain of 1 1. 
Pergamo lai. 
Peigamum 205. 322. 335. 
Feme 223. 224. 
Persia 339. 
Philadelphia V 300. 305. 307. 

309. 310. 311. 312. 315. 
Phoctea 74. 95. 102. 192. 272. 
Phoggia, or Phoctea 95. 102. 
Phrygia 218. 273. 275. 276. 

280. 284. 289. 294. 295. 

296. 301. 308. 310. 
Phrygius, river 308. 334. 
Phygela 164. 

Physae, or the Bellows, pits 308. 
Physcus 234. 241. 272. 
Pisidia 296. 
Plutonium 292. 294. 
Pontus 183. 
Foro, island of 11. 
Posidium, promontory 102.115. 

179. 187. 191. 225. 272. 
Priene 158. 180. 192. 193. 

196. 197. 199. 201. 202. 

203. 209. 215. 216. 219. 

220. 222. 223. 263. 
Prion, mount 147. 148. 149. 

150. 152. 153. 155. 156. 

, IS7' !f59- i6o. 169. 316. 
Propoutis, the 184. 
Prusa 145. 



Psili-bouroun 124. 

Psyra 12. 

Pygela> or Phygela 176. 177. 

Py^32i. 

Pyrrha 220. 221. 224. 
Pyrrhites, stream of 163. 
Biiodes, island of 234. 241. 

272. 
Rhodius, river 17. 
Rome 36. 

St. Angelo, cape of 1 1. 
St.Greorged*Albora, island of 1 1 • 
St. Vincent, cape 2. 
Salashar 253. 
Sale, a marsh 331. 
Samos 74. 105. 116. 128. 157. 

179. 192. 225. 
Samsun 202. 216. 217. 
Samsun-kalesi 202. 
Sanderli 332. 
Sangarius, river 262. 
Sangiac castle 333. 
Sardes 298. 309. 310. 312. 

3«3- 314- 3>5- 316. 317. 
319. 322. 324. 326. 329. 

330- 33a- 334- 
Sardinia 10. 

Saronic gulf 1 1 . 

Sart 313. 318. 

Scala Nova 130. 163. 191. 193. 

Scamander, river of 13. 16. 19. 

50. SI- 57- 58- 284. 
Sdo 1 2. 58. 59. 60. 61. 65. 68. 

74. 100. III. 113. 114. 115. 

116. 229. 339. 
Scythia 241. 
Sedicui 87. 134. 337. 338. 341. 

342- 343- 350. 35 »• 
Segigeck 117. 119. 121. 122. 

276. 
Selene, temples of 276. 
Selenusia, lake of 162. 164. 
Selinus, river of 162. 
Sergentum 10. 
Sevri-hissar 120. 121. 122. 

123. 124. 144. 
Sicily 10.' 

Sigean promontory 45. 
Sigeuni 12. 19. 21. 31* 45*46. 

47- 50- 52. 



/ 



INDEX. 



Signia, mouiit 296. 297. 
Simois, river 50. 51. 57. 
Sinofocheli 139. 
Sipylus, mount 315. 325. 329. 

330.331-336. 
Smyrna 8. 57. 58. 68. 69. 73 

74- 75' 76. 79. 80. 8 1. 82 
83. 84. 86. 87. 89. 92. 94 
95. 96. 97. 98. 99. 10 1. 102 
105. iiT. 116. 118. 120 
130. 134. 137. 138. 139 
145. 148. 154. 157. IS9 
165. T92. 210. 2T5. 252 
256. 263. 272. 279. 280 
289, 306. 309. 312. 324 

330- 332- 333- 334- 335 

336. 337- 340- 341. 343 

345- 34^- 347- 348- 349 

350.351- 352. 
Smyrna, gulf of 1 2. 35. 82, 352. 

Solmissus, mountain 177. 

Sophonia, islet 258. 

Spaldmadore islands 60. 69. 

114. 

Stamboul 29. 

Stanchio, island of 229. 

Stratonicea 232. 240. 241. 253. 

254- 
Suki 180. 197. 215. 216. 

Sultan Emir, stream 299. 

Sultan-hissar 264. 266. 267. 

268. 269. 273. 

Sunium, cape of 1 1 . 

Susa 314. 

Syria 285. 

Syrie, island of 164. 

Tsenarum, cape of 10. 

Tangdzlik 289. 

Tarismanla 248. 

Taurus, mount 159. 241. 273. 

Teronos, town of 94. 

Tendeba 254. 

Tenedos 12. 20. 21. 23. 27. 

29- 32- 33- 35- 39- 42. 49- 
61. 



Teos 117. 119. 120. 121. 122, 

123.124. 126. 127. 128. 144. 
Termetis, mount 83* 
Terrenda 135. 
Thebaites, river 266. 
Thessaly 257. 
Thorax 255. 256. 257, 
Thrace, peninsula of 1 2« 18. 97. 

120. 
Thyatira 322. 334. 335. 
Thymbria in Caria 209. 210, 
Tino 100. no. 345. 
Titanus^ mount 202. 204. 210, 

219. 231. 247. 
Tmolus, mountain 273. 274. 

307. 309. 312. 314. 317. 

318. 320. 321. 323- 330* 
Tourbali 136. 
Tracheia 157. 158. 159. 
Tragiee 223. 
Tralles 260. 261. 262. 263. 

264. 265. 266: 267. 268. 

272. 305, 320. 
Tripolis 275. 305. 
Troad, the 12. 58. 284. 
Troas 27. 31. 32. 35. 37. 38. 

41. 43. 150. 
Troezen 231. 
Trogilia, coast of 192. 193. 

196. 
Trogilium, promontory 179. 
Troy 33. 130. 313. 
Tumus, fort of 310. 
Two Brothers, the, a rock 1 1, 
Tyria 323.324. 
Tyriaeum 160. 323. 
Vesuvius, M. 29. 
Vourla 102. 106. 

III. 116, 117. 

189. 
Ura, or Urada 186. 187. 189. 
Ura Bafi 248. 
Uran-lui 329. 
Xanthus, river 284. 
Zille 129. 130. i33« 



107. 
121. 



no. 
122. 



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